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Christopher K. Hartley
08-31-2010, 3:31 PM
I just got my boiler set up and thought I'd share the pics. I'm looking forward to using it as soon as the shop is back up.:)

Jim King
08-31-2010, 3:46 PM
It looks like it will work great. I would suggest that after boiling you leave the blanks in the water over night to cool for the best results. I rough turn and boil everything with excellent sucess.

Chris Colman
08-31-2010, 4:04 PM
Please educate the newbie here...

I am just beginning to rough and turn green wood.

What is the purpose of boiling?

I have been roughing the green wood, wrapping it in paper and drying several months until dry. Then re-mounting for final turning and finishing.

Is there an easier or quicker way?

Christopher K. Hartley
08-31-2010, 4:21 PM
Please educate the newbie here...

I am just beginning to rough and turn green wood.

What is the purpose of boiling?

I have been roughing the green wood, wrapping it in paper and drying several months until dry. Then re-mounting for final turning and finishing.

Is there an easier or quicker way?Chris, Jim is the master at this and so is Steve Russell so here are his links. Steve is a Professional Production Turner and the President of Lone Star Woodturners Association.

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/drying-green-wood.html
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-protocol.html
Chris, I started out using DNA but the results leave much to be desired and the expense is a factor as well.:)

David Foshee
08-31-2010, 4:23 PM
Chris,
Some folks boil, some micorwave, others soak in denatured alcohol. It is all just a way to speed up the drying process.

Christopher K. Hartley
08-31-2010, 4:25 PM
It looks like it will work great. I would suggest that after boiling you leave the blanks in the water over night to cool for the best results. I rough turn and boil everything with excellent sauces.Thanks Jim, Steve Russell says the same thing so I will certainly take this advice. Please feel free to answer any questions from your perspective that may arise in this thread.:)

Christopher K. Hartley
08-31-2010, 4:30 PM
Chris,
Some folks boil, some micorwave, others soak in denatured alcohol. It is all just a way to speed up the drying process.David I know many feel strongly about these different methods and that is OK. I think that Boiling goes a step farther in impacting the wood to limit the cracking and wood separation process. I used DNA for a long time until I learned some things from Steve.:)

Wally Dickerman
08-31-2010, 4:44 PM
Chris, Jim is the master at this and so is Steve Russell so here are his links. Steve is a Professional Production Turner and the President of Lone Star Woodturners Association.

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/drying-green-wood.html
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-protocol.html
Chris, I started out using DNA but the results leave much to be desired and the expense is a factor as well.:)

Madrone burl, one of my favorite woods to turn, is probably the most unstable wood in North America. It will warp like you wouldn't believe. After boiling, it becomes very stable with very little warping or cracking. Boiling does little to hasten drying.

Wally

Christopher K. Hartley
08-31-2010, 5:44 PM
Madrone burl, one of my favorite woods to turn, is probably the most unstable wood in North America. It will warp like you wouldn't believe. After boiling, it becomes very stable with very little warping or cracking. Boiling does little to hasten drying.

WallyWally, you are correct, but Steve covers drying in these same articles. Using the Boiling and Drying protocols together is very helpful.:)

Tony Wheeler
08-31-2010, 5:47 PM
how long do you boil the wood or is it a matter of size

Christopher K. Hartley
08-31-2010, 5:53 PM
how long do you boil the wood or is it a matter of sizeTony let me encourage you to read the articles referenced with the links. I would rather have Steve's words or Jim King answer these questions as they have experience with thousands or maybe even 10's of thousands of bowls and other works. The time I use follows Steve's protocol.(this is my way of getting you to get the best possible information on this subject.):)

Steven Russell
09-01-2010, 9:19 AM
I just got my boiler set up and thought I'd share the pics. I'm looking forward to using it as soon as the shop is back up.:)
Hello Chris,

Your bowl boiler setup looks sweet! :D Glad to hear you're getting your studio back up and running. I recently replaced my boiling drum because it was getting a wee bit thin on the bottom after processing so many batches of roughouts and turning squares. :cool: If I can help anyone with questions about my boiling protocol, please do not hesitate to contact me, or post a question here. Take care and best wishes in all of your boiling endeavors!

Bernie Weishapl
09-01-2010, 10:11 AM
Looks mighty fine to me Chris. Glad to hear you are getting close to being back in the shop.

Steve Schlumpf
09-01-2010, 10:15 AM
Nice setup Chris! Reminds me of a smaller version of what we used for Blue Shell crab!

Looking forward to your reports on how well everything works!

Thomas Bennett
09-01-2010, 10:40 AM
I think that Boiling goes a step farther in impacting the wood to limit the cracking and wood separation process. I used DNA for a long time until I learned some things from Steve.:)
Christopher, great set-up. Are you saying that you boil not to dry the wood but to improve the turning characteristics? I always wanted to try it but thought it strictly a "drying thing".

Christopher K. Hartley
09-01-2010, 11:46 AM
Hello Chris,

Your bowl boiler setup looks sweet! :D Glad to hear you're getting your studio back up and running. I recently replaced my boiling drum because it was getting a wee bit thin on the bottom after processing so many batches of roughouts and turning squares. :cool: If I can help anyone with questions about my boiling protocol, please do not hesitate to contact me, or post a question here. Take care and best wishes in all of your boiling endeavors!Thanks for chiming in here Steve. I know many can benefit from your experience. Getting back into the swing has been a slow process but it will be worth it in the end. I hope to get back to the meetings soon.:)

Christopher K. Hartley
09-01-2010, 11:50 AM
Looks mighty fine to me Chris. Glad to hear you are getting close to being back in the shop.Thanks Bernie, I can't wait to be producing curlies once again.;)



Nice setup Chris! Reminds me of a smaller version of what we used for Blue Shell crab!

Looking forward to your reports on how well everything works!
Thanks Steve but that Blue Crab sounds like a real treat. :D

Christopher K. Hartley
09-01-2010, 11:51 AM
Christopher, great set-up. Are you saying that you boil not to dry the wood but to improve the turning characteristics? I always wanted to try it but thought it strictly a "drying thing". Ok Steve chime in here I'd like for Thomas to get this first hand.;)

Jim King
09-01-2010, 1:09 PM
Chris:

If it wasn´t for Steves articles I never would have tried it. Here is a chart I made showing the drying process of some of our woods that may interest you.

Steven Russell
09-03-2010, 6:45 AM
Thomas Bennett wrote: Christopher, great set-up. Are you saying that you boil not to dry the wood but to improve the turning characteristics? I always wanted to try it but thought it strictly a "drying thing". Hello Thomas,

My boiling protocol offers a plethora of advantages for woodturners, including a greatly reduced drying/seasoning time (boiled and dried, vs. traditional air drying). In testing (not only mine, but many others around the world) the average time necessary for a boiled piece to reach EMC is reduced by 50% or more. Depending on the specific species, the protocol can achieve even greater reductions in overall drying time. When you combine boiling with post-boil aggressive drying treatments, you can reduce the drying time even further (when compared to boiled pieces that do not receive any post-boil drying treatments).

Boiling also offers a significant reduction in the amount/severity of drying induced defects like checking/fissures. I routinely achieve a 95% - 98% success rate (success defined here as a piece that dries with no checking) on all boiled pieces. Lesser benefits include a reduction in the amount of warp (amount varies by species), when compared to the same species waxed and dried in the open air. Sanding on boiled pieces is also easier and the sanding pads tend to clog less when compared to sanding the same species that was not boiled and air dried. Elimination of unwanted guests in the wood is another nice benefit to boiling. :D

I've been boiling since 1996 and through the years, I've boiled thousands and thousands of roughouts and turning squares and I continue to boil to this day. This one protocol literally saved my bacon and made my studio profitable when I began turning production bowls. Through the years, I've been contacted by woodturners from all over the world who are using the protocol and experiencing the same results as I achieve in my studio. Some commercial sawmills in various parts of the world are also using my protocol to treat timber before it is exported.

I would encourage you to read the articles on my website and give boiling a go to see if it's beneficial in your studio. If you prefer not to, that's ok too since as I always say: "I don't sell pots, propane or water..." :D Take care and best wishes in all of your woodturning endeavors!

P.S. I completed some advanced testing on boiling last year to tweak the protocol even further and achieve even greater reductions in the overall drying times on boiled pieces. When I get the chance, I will publish my latest results in my newsletter, Lathe Talk. :)

Greg Muller
09-03-2010, 10:38 AM
To carry this a bit further...

where do you find these boiling pots?? :D

.

David Woodruff
09-03-2010, 11:31 AM
David I know many feel strongly about these different methods and that is OK. I think that Boiling goes a step farther in impacting the wood to limit the cracking and wood separation process. I used DNA for a long time until I learned some things from Steve.:)

Whose? Just joking. How long did the DNA work before accumulating to much water. Thanks , David

Jim King
09-03-2010, 4:38 PM
where do you find these boiling pots??


I made this big one for blanks out of three 55 gallon drums. It was a bit much to keep the water boiling. The smaller one I used for rough outs was just a big aluminum cooking pot that fit in the outside fireplace.

Christopher K. Hartley
09-04-2010, 8:53 AM
Chris:

If it wasn´t for Steves articles I never would have tried it. Here is a chart I made showing the drying process of some of our woods that may interest you.Thanks Jim for the words. I know this will be an encouragement to others to try this.:)


Hello Thomas,

My boiling protocol offers a plethora of advantages for woodturners, including a greatly reduced drying/seasoning time (boiled and dried, vs. traditional air drying). In testing (not only mine, but many others around the world) the average time necessary for a boiled piece to reach EMC is reduced by 50% or more. Depending on the specific species, the protocol can achieve even greater reductions in overall drying time. When you combine boiling with post-boil aggressive drying treatments, you can reduce the drying time even further (when compared to boiled pieces that do not receive any post-boil drying treatments).

Boiling also offers a significant reduction in the amount/severity of drying induced defects like checking/fissures. I routinely achieve a 95% - 98% success rate (success defined here as a piece that dries with no checking) on all boiled pieces. Lesser benefits include a reduction in the amount of warp (amount varies by species), when compared to the same species waxed and dried in the open air. Sanding on boiled pieces is also easier and the sanding pads tend to clog less when compared to sanding the same species that was not boiled and air dried. Elimination of unwanted guests in the wood is another nice benefit to boiling. :D

I've been boiling since 1996 and through the years, I've boiled thousands and thousands of roughouts and turning squares and I continue to boil to this day. This one protocol literally saved my bacon and made my studio profitable when I began turning production bowls. Through the years, I've been contacted by woodturners from all over the world who are using the protocol and experiencing the same results as I achieve in my studio. Some commercial sawmills in various parts of the world are also using my protocol to treat timber before it is exported.

I would encourage you to read the articles on my website and give boiling a go to see if it's beneficial in your studio. If you prefer not to, that's ok too since as I always say: "I don't sell pots, propane or water..." :D Take care and best wishes in all of your woodturning endeavors!

P.S. I completed some advanced testing on boiling last year to tweak the protocol even further and achieve even greater reductions in the overall drying times on boiled pieces. When I get the chance, I will publish my latest results in my newsletter, Lathe Talk. :)Thanks Steve, I know this will benefit many of these who try it.:)


To carry this a bit further...

where do you find these boiling pots?? :D

.Greg, You just have to look around and ask around in your area, I found mine at a bait shop here at the lake of all places. The barrel was $12 and the guy cut it for me for $3.:D


Whose? Just joking. How long did the DNA work before accumulating to much water. Thanks , DavidMine lasted about four months or so and it was still doing the job fairly well. I just still was having cracking and warping issues when drying,:mad:


I made this big one for blanks out of three 55 gallon drums. It was a bit much to keep the water boiling. The smaller one I used for rough outs was just a big aluminum cooking pot that fit in the outside fireplace.Jim and I thought things were big here in Texas.:confused: You've got us beat.