1948 Delta 14" Bandsaw Users/Comments

[richard poitras]

I am looking at a 1948 Delta 14" bandsaw that has been totally restored and was just wondering if there are any end users of this saw and if so what your thoughts are of the saw. I am not looking at using it for re-sawing (I currently have a Laguna LT18) but mostly for small curvy work. Also do any of you know if parts are available for this saw? New and after market things and if so where is the best place to buy them.

Thanks Richard

[Tom Rick]

This Delta is a much loved and universally cloned saw. I don't think I've ever heard of a unhappy owner. I've had mine for 20 years or so and love it. I recently bought a 1944 Walker Turner 16 which I use for resawing and never had added the riser block to mine. Many do. I also have mine set up now for scroll work with a narrow blade. I had used it for resawing up to its ~6" capacity.
Parts are available but the thing is- you won't need any.
Jump on over to OWWM and look though the Delta archives for info.

[Myk Rian]

The Delta 14" is the defacto standard of band saws, no matter what year it is. There are plenty of parts available for it. E-bay and OWWM are the best places to look and ask for parts.

[george wilson]

I bought my Delta 14" USED in 1963. It has the riser block for 12" resawing. It is a much sturdier saw than the clones or newer Deltas., Make sure the 1948 isn't missing parts of its blade guides,the parts that hold the bearings and guide blocks. Delta calls these parts "historic",and they aren't cheap. I'm now restoring a 1950's 20" Delta,my favorite saw. Things like any bearings can be had at a bearing store if you have the numbers off them.

[glenn bradley]

Dad has a 1940's Delta 14" and it is a great saw for what you are planning. Dad added Carter guides and a larger table for the things that he likes to do but, the standard saw with a good blade(s) should serve you well. After market parts abound for this saw format. I don't know that I would pay a premium for the "restoration" though.

[mark kosse]

I have 3 14" delta's . A 1947, a 1969 and a 1983.

I'm not trying to show off, I'm just saying, if this tells you anything...

[Brian Myers]

I`ve got two Delta 14`s. (a) is 1934-36 first generation with rays on the upper door and the original 1/3 hp RI motor. Very different lower castings, different bearings (machinist work needed to modify to current bearings) and a different lower guide casting design ( a pain to find if you break it, DAMHIK) and (b) 1937-38 solid (steel disc) wheels otherwise the same design as the one your looking at. Both still good solid machines. The one your looking at will have bearings with extended races which can still be bought or if you know someone with a metal lathe they can easily turn a few spacers to use more current bearings (easier to find and a couple of bucks per bearing cheaper). Best place to get bearings that I have found is Accurate Bearing, they carry what you would need. Upper and lower guides will be the same as current saws as will be the blade tracking assembly and trunnions ( you would need to salvage the old angle scale plate to put on a new front trunnion so the scale and pointer line up ). The upper arm casting is sweet compared to new machines, a more ridgid hollow casting instead of one that looks cut away with ribs. One thing that you may want to replace is the tension spring esp. if you add a riser (after market replacement springs work well). If you go with a riser kit (newer) , this saw will have a hex shaped upper guide post ,newer ones are round. On line metal suppliers carry hex rod and all you would need to do is cut it to length. Parts should not be problem. She is a more solid machine compared to newer models.

[Dave Lewis]

I have the Rockwell version with 1/2 HP motor - but not that old. It works fine but dust collection is not built in of course like new bandsaws have.

I replaced the guides with Cool Blocks - highly recommend.

[george wilson]

You may haver to buy a 10' length of hex rod,then pay to have it sawn to length unless you can buy what is called a "drop." A drop is a left over from a previously sawn rod. Some places charge $75.00 to saw off a piece around here. I'd saw it for you if you lived around here,or could mail it with return postage. I'll also smooth off the ends with my lathe.

I haven't replaced anything on my saw,nor the blade tension spring. They do sell stronger springs if you want to pay too much for one. What are they,$25.00?

If your spring is too weak,you may have to do it. I'd be sure to keep the blade tension screw and nut oiled if you do. You don't want to wear out those parts with a more powerful spring.

[doug faist]

Richard - I just finished restoring my Dad's 1947 14" Delta. It's a wonderful saw and much better than the clones being produced now. The downside, as mentioned, is the lack of dust collection, but with a little work a very workable solution can be fabricated out of some scrap.

Parts abound for this saw primarily because it's so popular. I'm surprised no one has mentioned Iturra Design. Louis Iturra is probably the best known authority on this saw which he calls "the best band saw ever made." Call him, ((904) 642-2802) buy a part or two and get his catalogue (only goes with purchases), it is a bible on tuning, understanding and using this saw. He carries parts at quite decent prices and is a kick to talk to (he answers his own phone.)

Have fun with your new toy..., eh, I mean tool. :D

Doug

[jared herbert]

I have a 40's vintage delta band saw and it works good. I put on the riser kit to saw bowl blanks. the motor says just 1/2 horse on it but is really big and heavy and performs well. I also made a home made tension release leaver and that works good, better than turning the knob all of the time. I just wish I had another one. I am p....d because I let one get away from me on an auction a few years ago for less than $200. Jared

[richard poitras]

Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like it’s defiantly a well liked saw. What would be a reasonable asking price for one of these saws in today’s market?

Restored price?.....

Un-restored price?.....

Thanks Richard

[doug faist]

Richard - I've seen these anywhere from $50 to $250 depending on how much work needed to be done and more importantly, how much the seller knows about the saw.

I have not seen any for sale in fully restored condition. To replace one in today's market with a new saw would probably cost you up to $1,000 and the new one certainly won't last the 40-60 years that the originals have.

If you have the inclination, look for one that needs work, strip it down to the component level and restore it yourself. It's a great education is what makes a band saw tick and a great sense of accomplishment when the thing comes together and works like it used to.

My $.02; YMMV.

Doug

[Brian Myers]

Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like it’s defiantly a well liked saw. What would be a reasonable asking price for one of these saws in today’s market?

Restored price?.....

Un-restored price?.....

Thanks Richard


Need more info -
a) Open steel base or Cast Iron Base?
b) If open steel base, welded or bolted together base (original steel base would be welded)?
c) If open steel base, does it have the belt guard? If so, steel belt guard or cast iron? (belt guards were an option. I believe the steel one would be correct for `48 . The 1948 catalog doesn`t say the belt guard was cast iron and lists the shipping weight as only 12 lbs. )
d) If cast iron base , are there any extra holes in the base? Some people butcher the cast iron bases to fit larger motors.
e) Does it have the original lamp AKA retirement light ?

Cast Iron bases can raise the price a bit.:rolleyes: I`ve seen incomplete or butchered cast iron bases bring $100 alone up to $350 for a pristine one.

My brother and I have had four wood only 14" BS so far. All have been on steel bases and we have paid any where from $20 to $165. Three have needed bearings (oldest one didn`t),all four needed tires, two had to have fresh paint and two needed trunnions. One of the four ,which only cost $25, was parted out when we found it had a trashed drive shaft (frozen bearing spun on shaft and was still being used for some time) and it needed one door. We made good money on that one. None of them have had a CI base and neither of the open bases have a belt guard. I personally would stay away from the enclosed steel bases (not sure when they started but the two we had where from 1970 & 1973), as they vibrated too much (nice big sounding chamber) and take up more room (trapezoid shaped).

[Pete Bradley]

The original size bearings are still readily available from a bearing supplier. Sounds like this one's been done already so it's probably not an issue anyway.