Anti-skid additive in Rustoleum Solvent Based Epoxy Floor Coating

[Ed Popiel]

Hi all,

I'm planning on epoxying my concrete floor in a couple of weeks and have some questions:

I bought the Rustoleum 2 gallon 2 part solvent based epoxy floor coating # 203373. I am going to use the flakes, but was also thinking about using the anti-skid additive (8oz).

I spoke to Rustoleum technical support and they said to use one package for each gallon, which means adding 2-8oz packages of the anti-skid to the 2 gallons.

Is this too much? Should I use just one or do the flakes give enough friction by themselves?

I attached some pix: the first floor - is where I will be painting the concrete. The second floor is going to be used for finishing/storage and there is a 4'x6' opening in the floor to be able to bring things upstairs.

The pix are showing the finished insulation, which I did myself. The drywall is currently being put up now and should be done and painted in 1-2 weeks. Then the painting begins!!!

Oh and by the way the size of the shop is 16' wide by 20' deep.

Thanks for your advice,
Ed

[Andrew Nemeth]

I don't feel like the flakes add any noticeable traction at all. The only real disadvantage I can think of to adding the recommended amount would be it would be harder to sweep the floor. One compromise would be to use the texture at full strength in key locations (in front of the jointer and shaper, and around the table saw and workbench ext.) and paint the rest of the floor with a lower concentration of the additive.

-Andrew

[Mitchell Andrus]

The sand granules are very small. Used the Rustoleum epoxy and added the package as recommended. The floor is not overly gritty and sawdust/chips sweep up just fine. The flakes don't add any anti-slip properties on their own.

Test a small patch with regular paint to get an idea.
.

[Stan Mitchell]

I coated my shop floor last year with the same product and did not use the anti-skid additive.

From my experience, it's just not necessary for the average garage/shop.

Once cured, the coating is really not all that slippery when wet.

Whatever you decide, good luck with your project - it's really worth the time and effort. You'll end up with a superb shop floor.

[Mitchell Andrus]

From my experience, it's just not necessary for the average garage/shop.



Agreed. I didn't use the grit in my garages (with garage floor paint in these areas) and it's not so slippery that I feel I missed a step.
.

[Jeff Monson]

I'd also skip the additive, I've had 2 different woodshops without additive, its not needed. I did however use it in my garage, it made sweeping and cleaning more of a pain.

[Howard Jahnke]

Epoxy coating is VERY slippery when wet. I sometimes go into my shop w/ wet feet from swimming pool to retrieve beverages. It is like walking on ice. Have had several near wipeouts. I would recommend additive. Wish they would have had it when I did my floors

[Jay Radke]

yes in deed they are slick when wet. living in snow country it can get slick in the garage in winter. even more so just after i painted it years ago. now its not as bad.

[Joe Chritz]

My shop floor is fiber concrete that I finished. It never was polished smooth and the epoxy finished the same way. It is about right with nothing added.

My dad's garage shop floor was polished and it is slippery with sawdust or water.

Long way of saying the concrete itself matters too. I will add that the epoxy finish is some good stuff.

Joe

[Ed Popiel]

Thanks everyone - so I know it's up to me, but we seem to have a divided audience.

I have young kids that will be in the shop also, so will probably use the additive.

I won't be painting the floor for about 2 weeks, so I still have time to decide. At this point it seems that if I do use the anti-skid additive, there is not a lot of "negatives" that go along with it. Maybe a little harder to sweep.

There will be alot of sawdust and maybe some wet feet, so the safe bet is to use it.

The funny thing is that the Rustoleum anti-skid is 8oz and says to use 1 package per gallon and when I look at the quickrete or the Behr anti-skid, the package is 3oz and they also say to use 1 pack per gallon.

Since I'm using the Rustoleum epxoy, I will also use the Rustoleum anti-skid. The technical support guy said that I shouldn't be surprised if there is a handful of the additive on the bottom of the bucket when I'm finished.

So, unless anyone has a significant reason not to use the anti-skid additive, I'm leaning towards using it.

Thanks again guys!!!! Really appreciate the advice! Great site and great people.

Ed

[Dave Yanke]

http://www.linexprotects.info/aspartx_ic320_flooring.php

[Ian Parish]

Hi all,

I bought the Rustoleum 2 gallon 2 part solvent based epoxy floor coating # 203373. I am going to use the flakes, but was also thinking about using the anti-skid additive (8oz).

Ed

How did you decide on this? vs. the standard kit. How much will it cover? I have a 2000sq new concrete floor to cover so I am thinking 1 kit won't do it. <Wink>
I will love to see your results.
Thanks,
Ian

[Ed Popiel]

Hey Ian,

I decided on the solvent based kit by reading the blogs here and talking with Rustoleum customer support. They told me that the solvent based kit is the best they make. I bought mine at Grainger.

Each kit coats 300-400 sq ft, so you'll definitely need more than 1 kit - most likely 5-6 kits. It adds up quick, plus all the extra stuff you'll need - muriatic acid, squeegie, stiff bristle broom, etc for the prep.

I'll definitely post pix when I'm done - should be finished within 2-3 weeks.

Ed

[David Cefai]

There's another "gotcha" with non skid floors apart from sweeping. They are abrasive. If you drag something with rubber feet across the floor rubber will be scraped off and you will have black skid marks which are very difficult to remove. We're talking floor scrubbers and special detergents here.

During my last major project - a bottling hall - we laid 1600 square metres of R11 tiles. These are non slip and gritted. and suffer from this problem. Never again! Current project is specified to have R10 tiles which have always been satisfactory anyway.

[Ed Popiel]

Hi all,

Finally got around to epoxying my floor and it came out great. See attached pix.

Couple of suggestions if you are planning on epoxying your floor with the Rustoleum Solvent based product:

1) Try to lightly scatter flakes - in the beginning I mistakenly threw a few clumps and then you realize "Well, I can't do anything about THAT!!!!"

In my opinion, less is more in this case.

2) I used the Rustoleum antiskid packets 2- one for each gallon. The floor is supper grippy and still looks good. Since I think I put too many flakes on the floor, the flakes also do contribute to the antiskid.

3) Make sure you roll over all the space at least twice with the roller. Near the end I missed a small area and only rolled it once and it's kinda thin there - but no big deal.

4) Wear a respirator with hydrocarbon filters - I used 3M's 7500 and it worked great - I think I would have passed out without using the mask.

All in all, came out really nice.

PS the white footprints are form drywall dust :o

[Mitchell Andrus]

Nice. The flakes hits a multitude of sins. I did the same thing with the first spray of flakes. I just rolled the area again and re-flaked. The sand will be appreciated as time goes on.
.

[Ian Parish]

That looks Awesome, good job. Now for your thoughts?

How temperature sensitive is this stuff? The directions say 60-80 Degree Fahrenheit for install. It's rapidly getting colder than that here. If I warm the shop temp up but the concrete is colder than that will the stuff fail to stick, fail in curing, or just take extra days to cure?

What are your thought on on vertical surface painting? I am trying to figure out what to do with the 18 inch foundation wall I have in the shop.

Did you do the whole thing at once, what if I did part one day and the rest another day or week from now?

Any other thoughts or warnings?

Thanks,
Ian
I want to use the light grey with sand and the speckles.

[Ed Popiel]

I'll try to answer your questions the best I can, but I applied mine at around 80F.

1) How temperature sensitive is this stuff? The directions say 60-80 Degree Fahrenheit for install. It's rapidly getting colder than that here. If I warm the shop temp up but the concrete is colder than that will the stuff fail to stick, fail in curing, or just take extra days to cure?

Check out this link from Rustoleum - it explains alot:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGResourceCenter.asp?sn=msd&msdstyp=PROCBG

and
http://www.rustoleum.com/documents/techdocs/epoxyshield%20ind.pdf


2) What are your thought on on vertical surface painting? I am trying to figure out what to do with the 18 inch foundation wall I have in the shop.

I also thought about painting the walls in my shop but wasn't sure that I had enough paint, but I had alot left over. I would definitely paint the walls if I knew that before I started. Instead I used the grey Drylock product and it looks great.


3)Did you do the whole thing at once, what if I did part one day and the rest another day or week from now?
I did the whole thing at once. After taking about 6-8 hours of prepping, I put the paint down in about 2 hours.

4)Any other thoughts or warnings?
I think I put down too many flakes, but other people like them, so it's really up to you. Practice throwing them on the clean floor before you paint - you won't regret it.

Good luck - I love mine and hope yours turns out well also!!!