Delta 22-580 problem

[Jack Wood]

I recently bought a Delta 22-580 and it worked like a charm until I flipped the blades around to have a fresh edge. I started noticing small gouges on my boards and some ridges also. Took the blade out and examined closely but could see no nicks in it. But just to be sure I dropped a new set in to see if that cured it. Nope. I have checked the rollers to see if there was anything embedded but could see nothing on them. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

[Michael Stafford]

Check your table, with the power off to see if there is a nick or scratch in it that could be causing the problem... No other thoughts except the knives and rollers...

[Arnie Grammon]

The only time I had the problem you are having is when I flipped them over instead of reversing them. The manual says you can flip them over but don't believe it. In any case, the knives should be cutting on the same angle, i.e. the angle should not be reversed.

Hope you can understand the above.......hard to explain, but easy to demonstrate.....Ah!......the limitations of the written word.

AG

[Lamar Horton]

I have the same planer and this happens to me from time to time. Usually a new set of blades will cure the problem. Taking too much off in one pass will do this also. Even though you cannot see or feel the blemish on the blades they are there. I have found that the most I can take off in a pass without taxing the machine or the blades is one quarter of a turn on the crank. HTH

Lamar

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Lamar, that seems like an awfully light pass. I turn the crank 1/2 turn and it doesn't seem to hurt anything with with mahogany, cherry or walnut. I am wearing hearing muffs and have a DC going, but nothing sounds amiss. The only surface probem I've experienced has been marks on the bottom of the boards caused by chips which weren't sucked up by the DC.

[Lamar Horton]

Dennis, most of the wood I have run through is red oak and a half turn really pulls on the motor, and if the board is of any width (8 in. or so) then a quarter turn is about as much as I dare. Maybe I'm just being too cautious.

Jack, what species are you planing?

[Jack Wood]

On the blades I just rotated them to the other edge. I have checked the table and rollers both are clean, the problem is on the top of the boards. I am planing various types of wood but the most noticeably affected are the soft woods like baltic birch and pine, not as noticeable on hardwoods. I am making as light a pass as is practical. This is really not that big of a deal as I can sand the marks out with some light passes of hand sanding, but you know how it is with us, I want it PERFECT!:p Spent about an hour checking clearances, sanding some of the castings on parts that don't come anywhere near the wood, etc. the marks are always in the center of the plane blades. Here's another question while I'm at it, can the blades be sharpened? How hard would that be on such a thin long blade? Thanks for all of your ideas!

[Lamar Horton]

Sounds like it's time to call Delta. You should be getting a PERFECT surface after planing a board. As for sharpening the blades I not sure if it would be cost effective, and I pretty sure Delta says they cannot be. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Lamar

[Maurice Ungaro]

Those blades are not that hard to sharpen, provided you have the proper equipment. I purchased a Makita wet grinder for that purpose, because it can handle blades up to 16" long. I know, that replacement blades are relatively inexpensive, but at around $25 for new blades, and if you get nicks in them frequiently, you can pretty much pay for a grinder itself inside of a couple of years.

Maurice