Old DeWalt RAS...Worth $50?

[Eric Wheeler]

Hey Guys, I found an old DeWalt RAS on Craigs List near me. They want $50. I asked if it slides freely and such, but was wondering if you guys think it is worth the $50. Also, if it is restoreable, as in can I still get parts for it? I am posting pics of it let me know what you all think.

Thanks

[Bob Aquino]

Yes its one of the good ones, not a round arm style, but still all cast iron. Its a newer version of the MBF which was a 9" saw with a 3/4 hp motor. I'm thinkin thats a model 925. Go to the dewalt ras forum over on delphi, lots of good information to be had. Yes, it sure is worth the 50 bucks and you can find parts for it if you know where to look.

http://people dot delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/

[Brian Myers]

Is it a 9" blade or a 10" blade? The blade looks larger than 9" from the pics. If its 10" it could be a 1030 the 925`s bigger brother. Either way a good saw, just check the wear to the ways in the head. You don`t want the blade dipping down in the middle of the cutting stroke. There is some adjustment for slop but not for excessive wear. The ways can be reground but that gets expensive or you could find a good used head (I did). If it is a 1030 the head off a GWI (you also need the end cap) would work . Dewalt used the GWI head (round top) on the 1030 until supply ran out then switched to the newer flat head. Also carefully check the carrriage assembly for cracks (esp around the lock to tilt the motor for bevel cuts). Dewalt sold a ton of RAS and parts can be found. As stated check the Dewalt forum and/or OWWM.org. Someone is bound to have parts machines if it needs parts. IMHO the 925/1030 was the last of the nice machines before Black and Decker really started to cheapen them up.

[Ryan Hellmer]

That blade guard looks too big to be a 9". If so, i sold a 1030 like that a year or so ago for $150. I also have a 925 right now. They are great saws, as mentioned, look closely at the castings and see that everything moves in the way it should.

Ryan

[Myk Rian]

For $50 you had better beat me to it.
Buy the Mr. Sawdust book. www.mrsawdust.com
Take the saw apart to the last nut and bolt. Rebuild it to learn about it.
Build the table for it. Adjust it according to the book.
You'll never buy a SCMS after using that saw.

[Steve Griffin]

You bet I would TAKE $50 to take that away. :D

I figure I could take it to the dump for $5 and make some money.

Seriously, unless your time is worth nothing, give it a pass and spend a couple hundred to get something built in this century and works
But that is just me, who always buys new. I find there are enough fussy, pain in the butt problems with woodworking, I don't need to add to the frustration with old, rusty pieces of junk.


-Steve

[Eric Wheeler]

For $50 you had better beat me to it.
Buy the Mr. Sawdust book. www.mrsawdust.com (http://www.mrsawdust.com)
Take the saw apart to the last nut and bolt. Rebuild it to learn about it.
Build the table for it. Adjust it according to the book.
You'll never buy a SCMS after using that saw.

LOL, yeah, that's why I copied and pasted the pics, but not the link. I don't know if he has it anymore though, I emailed and called left voicemail and no response yet.

[Eric Wheeler]

You bet I would TAKE $50 to take that away. :D

I figure I could take it to the dump for $5 and make some money.

Seriously, unless your time is worth nothing, give it a pass and spend a couple hundred to get something built in this century and works
But that is just me, who always buys new. I find there are enough fussy, pain in the butt problems with woodworking, I don't need to add to the frustration with old, rusty pieces of junk.


-Steve

Well, the biggest thing is I would enjoy restoring it and it'd work for a first RAS. And since I don't have any woodworking projects lined up right now, and I am strapped for cash, I need projects that don't cost a lot, that will double as keeping me out of the bar. I have a couple vehicles to restore, but not enough cash to get started...Have a few woodworking projects of building speaker boxes, but no money for the speakers to fill them, etc...All my projects get expensive quick, so I figure buy old shop equipment for a steal and but time and effort in it and I will end up with my first shop setup. Then when I finally finish college and get a real job, I can buy all brand new stuff and build my dream shop.

[Steve Griffin]

Sounds like it's got your name on it!

If you have the time, and enjoy working with old stuff, then this sort of thing might just be perfect for you.

I didn't mean to sound so negative. The primary test I give all new things is--"how much will I enjoy the process and how much will I learn." In the case of your old RAS, the answer is easy for me. But for someone like yourself, it might be just the ticket.

Keep us posted on what you end up doing!

.-Steve

[Chip Lindley]

Seriously, unless your time is worth nothing, give it a pass and spend a couple hundred to get something built in this century and works.
But that is just me, who always buys new. I find there are enough fussy, pain in the butt problems with woodworking, I don't need to add to the frustration with old, rusty pieces of junk.
-Steve



I didn't mean to sound so negative....

Too Late Steve! You have revealed yourself as a definite Ferrophobic!

A Couple Hundred Steve? And, what RAS would that be "built in this Century?" A Craftsman? A Ridgid? Certainly not a Delta or Original Saw Co. or Omga! Those are in the $1000s! That "old, [DeWalt] piece of junk" is 10 times the RAS that can be bought anywhere now for $500.

Enjoy your New Stuff Steve! Some of us cannot possibly afford to buy brand-spanking-new machinery. Those who appreciate OLD 20th Century cast iron machines that have the longivity to last into another century, have a better chance of grabbing one, since you are not in the running.

[Chip Lindley]

It's still Listed, Eric! Hang in there and SNAG that DeWalt! The blade guard is probably worth $50! Good Luck!

[Michael Arruda]

Listen not to the arn challenged. That's a nice saw- not quite as good as the old round arms, but serviceable and much more rigid than anything made today in it's size. As long as there's no play in the ways of the arm, you're good to go- some clean up, some bearings, a little paint, You're in for another $50... you have a saw you can be proud of and pass down to the kids.

-Michael

[Eric Wheeler]

Listen not to the arn challenged. That's a nice saw- not quite as good as the old round arms, but serviceable and much more rigid than anything made today in it's size. As long as there's no play in the ways of the arm, you're good to go- some clean up, some bearings, a little paint, You're in for another $50... you have a saw you can be proud of and pass down to the kids.

-Michael

Pass down to the kids??? Are you crazy? When I go, my tools are being buried with me...They can buy their own stuff!!!

[Will Boulware]

Pass down to the kids??? Are you crazy? When I go, my tools are being buried with me...They can buy their own stuff!!!

Hmm... So you're already acquiring tools while you're in college. Lets assume this sickness stays with you until you do pass on. That's gonna have to be a big hole they put you in!! :D

[Eric Wheeler]

Hmm... So you're already acquiring tools while you're in college. Lets assume this sickness stays with you until you do pass on. That's gonna have to be a big hole they put you in!! :D

Well, yeah, kinda, not in college, but not finished either. I'm 29, so not QUITE as long as you were prolly thinkin, but close enough I'm sure...yeah, big hole indeed...they can use my excavator to dig it, then leave it right in the hole with me as well as all my other tractors that I plan to have...

[Eric Wheeler]

Well, he called me today and said he still has it, I am on my way to check it out. 70 miles away, I hope it is in decent enough shape to come home with it, wish me luck...Just for the record, I will prolly be buggging you guys when I start restoring it...

[Dave Cav]

I will prolly be buggging you guys when I start restoring it...

Go over to OWWM.org and bug us over there. The OWWM site(s) specialize in people that like to restore old iron (arn). Do a little searching on the forums for the particular model number, go to the .com site and look at some other examples and then ask away. Right now I am working on DeWalt restore #4 (I had to stop for a little while to restore a Delta turret).

Dave

[Michael Arruda]

Eric- Good start! Keep going. I started "collecting" when I was 20- I'm now 25 and have a full shop, mosly "arn." If you want the "experts" on restoration, go to OWWM. We have all kinds of guys that have worked on those saws, and everything else you could imagine!

-Michael

[Eric Wheeler]

Well, he called me today and said he still has it, I am on my way to check it out. 70 miles away, I hope it is in decent enough shape to come home with it, wish me luck...Just for the record, I will prolly be buggging you guys when I start restoring it...


Hey All,

I went a checked out the saw, I didn't know exactly what to look for, but figured for $50, live and learn. I am posting pics of it...The guides you guys mentioned to make sure weren't worn seemed fine, if I was correct on the assumption of what you were referring to...I think you meant the railway or whatever that the power head slides back and forth on, I moved it all the way back and forth and it didn't seem to catch anywhere, then in many positions back and forth along the way I tried to twist and turn it and it didn't budge...I presume this is good? The only thing is the lock for the pivot arm is a bit wobbley. I posted a pic with a yellow arrow and circle that shows a pretty close up of what I am talking about...I hope this is an easy fix. She fires right up and runs REAL quiet. Even though the blade looks rusty, it cuts 2x4 like nothing, he showed me a few cuts.

[Myk Rian]

That column lock is adjustable.

My first restoration was an MBF. Took a couple weeks to sand blast, prime, paint, build the table, and adjust it.

It went from this:
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/DeWalt%20MBF%20RAS/0409001404.jpg

To this:
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/DeWalt%20MBF%20RAS/0423001517.jpg

[Eric Wheeler]

Pics of saw

http://s882.photobucket.com/albums/ac22/Eric_Wheeler/

[Eric Wheeler]

My first restoration was an MBF. Took a couple weeks to sand blast, prime, paint, build the table, and adjust it.

It went from this:
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/DeWalt%20MBF%20RAS/0409001404.jpg

To this:
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/DeWalt%20MBF%20RAS/0423001517.jpg


Ok, yeah, AWESOME saw, but was the gold plating really necessary?? LOL

[Myk Rian]

Ok, yeah, AWESOME saw, but was the gold plating really necessary?? LOL
:) That's Rustoleum hammered copper. A PITA to use the rattle cans.

[Eric Wheeler]

:) That's Rustoleum hammered copper. A PITA to use the rattle cans.

Yeah figured that, I have used that color a couple times. Looks cool. Was that the original color, or just a color you picked? Are these things worth restoring to their exact original state like cars, or just take them all apart and make them nice?

[Steve Kohn]

Let's see, say 90 minutes to get there, 20 minutes to check it out and haggle the price down by $5, 10 minutes to load the sucker, and 90 minutes back. He should be back by now....

WELL, DID YOU GET IT?

[Eric Wheeler]

Let's see, say 90 minutes to get there, 20 minutes to check it out and haggle the price down by $5, 10 minutes to load the sucker, and 90 minutes back. He should be back by now....

WELL, DID YOU GET IT?

Nope, 70 minutes there, 15 minutes to check it out an BS a bit, not gonna waste time haggling for $5...Heck almost paid $10 more cuz he couldn't find change at first, 70 minutes back, 5 minutes snapping some pics about 20-30 minutes to unload it, cuz I have no friends that I can count on to help me NEARLY as much as I help them, so I have grown accustomed to doing things myself, so I had to heave that bad boy out of my truck bed myself and hoist it up onto the bench. And yeah, I've been back for 2 hours now and even have pics posted on photobucket

[Eric Wheeler]

I don't know if you can see it in the pic real well of the Manufacturer plate. But it says Machine: 1511 Model: A. Can't find a year or anything on it

[Myk Rian]

Was that the original color, or just a color you picked?
Did you look at the first picture?


Are these things worth restoring to their exact original state like cars, or just take them all apart and make them nice?
Nobody is going to pay many hundreds for these saws. Make it look however you want to.

[Eric Wheeler]

Did you look at the first picture?


Nobody is going to pay many hundreds for these saws. Make it look however you want to.

Yeah, I saw the first pic, It looked like it coulda been pretty well stripped of any paint, so I wasn't sure. Colors don't show up real well on this laptop screen...So I thought maybe the paint was real faded/chipped, etc and that the copper may have been the color it was supposed to be. But it does make sense that no one is going to pay high dollar cuz you did a nice restore job, like they would with cars or other collector items. I think I'll make mine Hot Pink. J/K

[Chip Lindley]

WTG! Eric! That DeWalt is in great shape for it's age. There should be little that has to be done to get it in tip-top shape. IIRC, the 1511 is an early '60s saw. Not TOO OLD as Arn goes. Enjoy!

[Eric Wheeler]

WTG! Eric! That DeWalt is in great shape for it's age. There should be little that has to be done to get it in tip-top shape. IIRC, the 1511 is an early '60s saw. Not TOO OLD as Arn goes. Enjoy!

Really? I thought it was newer than that. It looks A LOT like ones in pics that are B&D. But it doesn't say B&D anywhere so I figured it was like RIGHT before they came into the picture than started stamping their name on it next to the DeWalt name.

[Chip Lindley]

Eric, I found a 1511 over at OWWM.com:
Yours
http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/ac22/Eric_Wheeler/DSC00043.jpg

DeWalt 1511 (1962):
http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/images/1787-A.jpg
and a 1512A (Black & Decker) from 1969:
http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/images/6617-A.JPG
I think you did WELL for $50 !!

[Eric Wheeler]

Wow, I thought it was a bit newer than that. I guess I had the right idea though, that B&D just stamped their name next to the DeWalt badge when they took over, besides that looks like the same saw...I just thought it happened later than in the 60's I was thinking lime early 80's. Oh well. Looks like I got one just before the turn of the era. Like you said, I did well for $50.

[Eric Wheeler]

I found a manual for this saw on eBay for $20. But I found a manual for 1200 and 1400 on OWWM, and scanning through it, it looks like all the same controls and such. Would it be worth the $20 to get the right one, or will the other one work. It appears to be the same saw, just like maybe different motor specs or blade size or something.

[Richard Gonzalez]

Besides OWWM site, the Dewalt radial arm saw forum is very active and full of helpful info:

http://forums dot delphiforums.com/woodbutcher

There is someone there parting out a 1511 (not me) - maybe you can pick up any parts you need.

http://forums dot delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages/?msg=4382.1

[Charlie Velasquez]

.... Would it be worth the $20 to get the right one, or will the other one work. It appears to be the same saw, just like maybe different motor specs or blade size or something.

The dewalts seems to have changed little in the time. I would not think you would need a model specific manual. Instead I would spend the money on Jon Eakes' Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw - I consider the bible on RAS set-up and maintenance. You should also head down to your local library and read everything you can find on using this tool, it has its quirks. Below is from Jon Eakes' website: (http://joneakes.com/learning-curve/radial-arm-saws)


Download the book
I read through this book twenty+ years later and found that nothing needed to be updated; those old saws just keep on cutting. Hence the rest of this book is as originally published. For a while I sold it on the web, then as part of a DVD, and now here it is back on the web.
Just click here to go to PayPal to pay for it (http://joneakes.com/payments/review?type=product&id=radial_arm_saw) ($14.95) and then download the book -- no more waiting for the mail.

[Eric Wheeler]

The dewalts seems to have changed little in the time. I would not think you would need a model specific manual. Instead I would spend the money on Jon Eakes' Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw - I consider the bible on RAS set-up and maintenance. You should also head down to your local library and read everything you can find on using this tool, it has its quirks. Below is from Jon Eakes' website: (http://joneakes.com/learning-curve/radial-arm-saws)

Yeah, I was going to get that Mr. Sawdust book or whatever. I just thought it'd be nice to have the manual as well with pics and everything of the actual saw...but this other manual the pics look identical to my saw from what I can tell. How does this Fine Tuning compare to the Mr. Sawdust book? Are they basically one in the same, or different enough to get both of them? I think Mr. Sawdust is running about $30 these days.

[Steve Peterson]

I am not sure what the difference is between the 1400 and the 1511, but it looks exactly like the 1400 that I own. Well, not "exactly" alike since mine doesn't look like it sat outside for a few years. It is one of the good models with cast iron. The stand on mine does not look as robust as the one in the picture.

The first 2 numbers in the serial number should be the year that it was manufactured. Mine has a 62 or 63.

$50 seems like a good price if it runs and the rails are smooth.

I found a free online manual for the 1200/1400 somewhere.

Steve

[Steve Peterson]

The only thing is the lock for the pivot arm is a bit wobbley. I posted a pic with a yellow arrow and circle that shows a pretty close up of what I am talking about...I hope this is an easy fix.

There is a set screw adjustment for aligning and tightening the 45/90 degree lock arm. In fact just about everything that can be moved has an adjustment with a set screw.

The old Dewalt RAS design is a marvel of engineering.

Steve

[Myk Rian]

Yeah, I was going to get that Mr. Sawdust book or whatever. I just thought it'd be nice to have the manual as well with pics and everything of the actual saw...but this other manual the pics look identical to my saw from what I can tell. How does this Fine Tuning compare to the Mr. Sawdust book? Are they basically one in the same, or different enough to get both of them? I think Mr. Sawdust is running about $30 these days.
Get the book. You'll enjoy the story he has to tell, and learn a lot about the saw in the process.

After you get the table made and installed with a fence on it, this is where you will make the initial 90deg adjustment.
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/DeWalt%20MBF%20RAS/0423001143a-1.jpg

[Eric Wheeler]

Well, I ordered Wally Kunkel book and it arrived today, so the resto of my saw should be well on the way quite soon. I do have to say though that for about $40 for the book including shipping I am quite disappointed thus far. Flimsy pages, no actual cover...it is about the same thickness and such as the pages, a cheap plastic comb binding just like the ones that I used in elementary school for my creative writing courses, and the text is quite big, reminds me of a childrens' book, in which they shouldn't be using an RAS anyway...I know I know, don't judge a book by its cover...but I'm not, really, I'm judging it by its price and cover. Oh well, this thing better be PACKED with excellent info to make me feel I got my monies worth because everything else seems crap. I'll be much happier when my saw is restored and beautified.

[Charlie Velasquez]

Yea, I really preferred the Eakes book. It is also a boring read, but that was its intent. It is just a more detailed manual for set-up and maintenance. And, since it gives details for the Dewalts, the Craftsman, and I think, the Rockwells, you will only use 1/3 of the information. But that 1/3 has shown me how to get more accuracy, keep my saw better maintained, and stay a little safer.

I used to be one that bad-mouth the RAS as being too finicky and hard to make square cuts. I had gone through the initial set-up and alignment in my saw's manual, but was frustrated by it not keeping its setting or jerking through cuts or a host of other problems.

After reading Eakes book I realized I also needed to pay attention to friction and wear, and vectors of force and other things to make sure cuts were predictable and repeatable. Now I feel more confident about using the saw.

[Eric Wheeler]

I have read 40 pages into it now. It seemed pretty cool so far, until I got to the point on page 30 where it said something a long the lines of...Unless you plan to build a table for your saw, do not waste your time with the rest of this book...On top of the grammatical errors and typos up the wazoo...remember only to page 40 so far. Then there was a part near the very beginning that mentioned that the book has not been edited, I chuckled, but soon realized it was quite true. I do love the instructions for building the table so far, so I think all in all I will be happy with my purchase, just disappointed in the quality, professionalism, and price.

Maybe I'll have to check out the Eakes book as well, I think I found a copy at the local library so I don't have to spend money on the book unless I decide I really like it enough to keep.

[Myk Rian]

Well, I ordered Wally Kunkel book and it arrived today, so the resto of my saw should be well on the way quite soon. I do have to say though that for about $40 for the book including shipping I am quite disappointed thus far. Flimsy pages, no actual cover...it is about the same thickness and such as the pages, a cheap plastic comb binding just like the ones that I used in elementary school for my creative writing courses, and the text is quite big, reminds me of a childrens' book, in which they shouldn't be using an RAS anyway...
That is a valuable book, and when you buy it, you are helping his Widow.
So what if it's made the way it is.

[Ryan Hellmer]

Eric, the Dewalt is definitely worth it. Hope that's already been settled.

It's also good to hear from some other young guys with the bug. I started collecting tools when I worked construction in high-school, then moved on to shop tools when I graduated from college. I've only been out of college for 5 years now and I already have multiples of most of my major shop tools. Most of them were made before I was born and will still be working after I've died.

My name is Ryan, and I'm addicted to all things woodworking.

[Tony Perrone]

Great saw bought one about a year ago for around $40 join the group owwm.com they have some articles about how to restore it and such. Wolf machinery still makes parts for it, just the motor on that saw today would cost about $750 to make if that gives you any idea how well it is made.