View Full Version : Model TARDIS made from 3mm HDF (Dr Who geek stuff)

James E Baker
08-25-2010, 1:16 PM
I've had my LASER engraver for almost 11 months now, and while most of my commercial output has been engraved glassware, I thought some of you might like to see the latest creation that I have produced that's not glassware.

The following photographs show a model TARDIS (from "Dr Who") that's a little over 6 inches tall, and except for a bit of translucent paper over the windows and the end of a cheap ball point pen for the roof light, is completely constructed out of LASER cut and etched 3mm HDF (high density fiberboard aka Masonite).

There's no glue or fasteners involved and the entire thing can be assembled without tools in about 5 minutes. This is the 5th different version I have produced over the space of the 3 weeks it took me to develop the CorelDRAW file, and is pretty close to the final production version with just a few detail corrections that could possibly be made. The application of some BBC approved blue paint (Pantone 2955C) would do wonders, but for the moment, the engineering is more important than the colour.

I've been doing work with a local clothing firm who have a license from the BBC to produce a line of Dr Who replica clothing, and they are currently attempting to get a license from the BBC to market my model TARDIS either as a kit or as completely assembled models.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc10/tardis_mk5_1_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc10/tardis_mk5_1.jpg)
(click on image for high resolution version)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc10/tardis_mk5_2_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc10/tardis_mk5_2.jpg)
(click on image for high resolution version)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc10/tardis_mk5_3_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc10/tardis_mk5_3.jpg)
(click on image for high resolution version)

The entire unit is cut out of a single piece of HDF measuring 24 inches by 14 inches and currently it takes about 30 minutes of LASER time on my 50 Watt VLS4.60 to engrave and cut out all the parts. There are a few unused pieces on the following layout sheet, and once they are removed and the layout is tweaked a bit to improve the cutting speed, I should be able to reduce the cut time to somewhere between 20 and 25 minutes.


Chris DeGerolamo
08-25-2010, 2:01 PM
Very nice work. Have you adjusted the frequency to minimize the burn on the edge and/or how much clean up is involved?

Dan Hintz
08-25-2010, 2:04 PM
Ha ha, love it :)

I suppose it would be asking too much, though, for you to share the file? :D

Dallas Traina
08-25-2010, 2:34 PM
Great design, James! Itís always great to see creative applications with lasers. Keep us posted on future projects.


Mike Null
08-25-2010, 2:43 PM
Well done! Thanks for the pictures.

Viktor Voroncov
08-25-2010, 3:24 PM
Great job, James! Come on, share file with us :)

What is on top? Some kind of light?

Greg Bednar
08-25-2010, 4:01 PM
Fantastic piece James - is the sonic screw driver next on your list?

john passek
08-25-2010, 4:29 PM
Well done James
I can only dream of being able to achieve ( design ) something of this quality.

Paul Brinkmeyer
08-25-2010, 5:46 PM
But, :rolleyes: How big is it inside :eek:

Looks great.

James E Baker
08-25-2010, 7:12 PM
Very nice work. Have you adjusted the frequency to minimize the burn on the edge and/or how much clean up is involved?
What you see is as it was taken out of the LASER and assembled (no cleanup).

My settings are:

VLS4.60 - 50 watt LASER

Beam Collimator (half of the HPDFO set) and 2.0" FL lens

Red Vector Cut: Power 100% Speed 6% PPI 300
Blue Vector engrave: Power 30% Speed 25% PPI 1000
Black Raster engrave: Power 100% Speed 40% PPI 500

I'm cutting on a honeycomb table with air assist (but no air assist cone) @ 10 psi

James E Baker
08-25-2010, 7:25 PM
I've just come back from a meeting with the owner of the clothing company. She wants me to provide her with 3 examples (a kit of parts, a raw assembled unit, and a finished and painted unit), so she can present them at her meeting with the BBC in London in mid-September at which she'll be discussing Dr Who product licenses and merchandising.

She also said that anything Dr Who related that I can come up with between now and her flight to London on September 16, will also be presented.

Depending on which way the BBC licensng goes may prevent me from sharing the files ... but if I am allowed to share the files, then I'll make them available to anybody on the forum that's interested. It'll be strictly a PM me and I'll send you a link to the file. I won't post the file publically.

Stay tuned for further developments.

Mike Chance in Iowa
08-25-2010, 7:28 PM
Amazing work James. Although I have to admit I had to look up what TARDIS meant. (Not showing my age! I didn't watch TV much.) So now that I've looked it up, where is the door handle? :D

I hope the license is approved and this project may put a few pennies in your pocket. You have put some thought into the design and you should be proud of what you accomplished! Thank you for sharing the photos.

Dee Gallo
08-25-2010, 8:33 PM
James! I didn't even know I needed a mini Tardis, but that is wonderful! I haven't liked all the Doctors, but the one we have now is the best. Best of luck on your quest, I hope they approve the deal for you.

cheers, dee

James E Baker
08-25-2010, 9:13 PM
... What is on top? Some kind of light?
The "light" on top is the end of a the plastic barrel of a cheap ball-point pen.

James E Baker
08-25-2010, 9:38 PM
Amazing work James. Although I have to admit I had to look up what TARDIS meant. (Not showing my age! I didn't watch TV much.) So now that I've looked it up, where is the door handle? :D
Actually, the first episode of Dr Who went to air in England on the night of the JFK assassination, so it's been around for a very long time.

I saw the first episode of the Dr Who in Australia in while on a trip to Sydney with my parents on January 15, 1965 ... and then a week later back home in Brisbane when the single 16mm black & white film print was delivered to TV station in the next state capital. The very first broadcast occurred in Perth on January 12.

I hope the license is approved and this project may put a few pennies in your pocket. You have put some thought into the design and you should be proud of what you accomplished! Thank you for sharing the photos.
I'm not expecting to make any real money out of it, but it's something that is certainly generating a lot of satisfaction, and proving to myself that I can still do creative stuff.

Tom Wilson42
08-26-2010, 11:59 AM
I love it.

Can you make the lettering in white?

Andrea Weissenseel
08-27-2010, 12:47 PM
That's cool :D

Dave Russell Smith
08-28-2010, 2:17 PM
Actually, the first episode of Dr Who went to air in England on the night of the JFK assassination, so it's been around for a very long time.

As a kid it use to scare me and I would have to hide behind the sofa, but now I can now laugh at it without the nightmares :D

James E Baker
01-14-2015, 10:27 PM
It's thread necromancy time.

The discussions with the BBC in 2010 about licensing went nowhere. Three models were taken to London (one kit, one assembled but unpainted, and one fully painted and detailed model). The BBC liked what I'd done, but wanted a lot of changes to the design and considered that my proposed price for the kit was too high. After I got the news back from my friend who'd taken the models to the BBC, I spent some time attempting to implement the design changes the BBC wanted, and eventually decided that it was more trouble than it was worth. My decision was reinforced by my knowledge that there was no way I could cut my costs to the sort of figure the BBC had in mind. In the end, other than the occasional tinkering with the files, I pretty much abandoned the project.

Cut to mid-2014.

After a lot of urging from some of the members of the committee at the local farmers' and artisan market, I joined their group and started displaying and selling my custom design and craft services from a table at the market. I needed some items on the table that would catch people's eyes, so amongst the engraved glassware and precision cut wooden items, I put a couple of my 2010 versions of the TARDIS on display, purely as an example of the kind of work I could do. One was an assembled version in unfinished MDF/Masonite that could be easily disassembled in just seconds to show the precision of the cutting to potential clients of my work, and the other was a fully assembled and painted version that was originally the paint test model I used in preparation for painting the good one that was taken to the meeting with the BBC. The models on the table at the market had the desired effect, and while it was often the children that saw them first, they created a lot of interest amongst some of more geeky market customers. Quite a few wanted to know if the models were for sale, and were rather disappointed when I had to point out that legally I couldn't sell them.

A few months ago, a friend who also has a table at the market (and sells artisan chocolates), asked if I would make a model for her that she could give to her Dr Who mad niece for Christmas. As the old 2010 vintage models were looking a bit tired and I could see so many ways I could improve the design, I used the request as an excuse to revise the cutting files to incorporate the changes that the BBC wanted, and add more detailing. My end goal was to have display pieces at the market that would better showcase my skills to potential clients of my custom work.

I made one for my friend's niece, and this one was completed a few days ago and incorporated changes to correct problems I'd encountered building the model for my friend's niece. This particular model has had a hard life, and needed repairs done before it was even finished. We have a 150 pound Newfoundland, and his tail is like a fur covered baseball bat. Things that you think are safe, are still within the range of his swinging tail, and this poor TARDIS was knocked off the table and onto the floor boards ... twice. Fortunately, as long as I had a stock of 3mm thick Masonite, I could make all the replacement parts I needed, and the replacement parts fitted exactly the same as the original parts. Other than lost time, there was no other loss. There was still a bit of touch up work to be done when the photos were taken, but the model was 99% complete (and placed well out of reach of the dog's tail when I wasn't working on it).

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/tardis_2015_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/tardis_2015.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/tardis_2015_detail_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/tardis_2015_detail.jpg)

All the trim around the door panels and windows that looks like its an attached wood moulding piece is achieved by using the LASER's 3D mode to carve a 45 degree chamfer into the edge of the Masonite. To get an idea of the scale, each block of 6 windows measures roughly 1 inch high by 3/4 inch wide.

The painting takes forever. I'm applying thinned down interior water based paint with a single action airbrush. It needs at least 5 coats of the thinned down paint to get full coverage ... however at that scale, using an airbrush and thinned paint in very light layers means that I have a lot of control over the quality of the paint finish. I use a Binks Wren "B" Airbrush (http://www.binks.com/products/spray-guns/manual-spray-guns/touch-up/wren-airbrush) that I've owned for 4 decades. Many cheap plastic single action airbrushes are shameless copies of the Binks Wren design. I have one of these copies (http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/airbrush-kit/A-p8574428e) as a secondary airbrush.

Each model can still be completely cut from a single 610mm by 305 mm (2 foot by 1 foot) piece of 3 mm thick Masonite, but there's now close to an hour of etching and cutting time needed to create all the pieces. A special jig is used to hold small pieces of masonite at a 10 degree angle while they are being LASER cut so that the 4 pieces that make up the sloped roof can be joined properly. Anyone that's done miter cuts in two planes will understand the type of cutting needed. In the LASER system, this is made even more complicated by the need to accurately position the focus point of the beam where it exits the final focus lens in the LASER beam path. These types of LASER cutting systems aren't designed to cut anything that isn't flat, so cutting an item that is on an angle, constantly moves the work outside the restricted focus point of the beam. After a short cut on a piece of sloping material, the piece being worked on has to be repositioned vertically to relocate it back into the LASER focus point before the cut can continue.

Brett Tossell
01-14-2015, 11:02 PM
That's really cool. I watched Dr. Who sitting in my grandparents place outside London, a long time ago... and whenever I hear the theme - it brings me back to the 70's and 80's.

It's neat that on a message board for something so technical as laser cutting - a pretty narrow pursuit - I see something like this to cue those thoughts.

You've made a cool thing. Keep doing that.

Walt Langhans
01-16-2015, 12:00 AM
Just remember you started this James...

Where's the access point to the phone on the left second from the top panel?
Where's the handle and key hole?
And depending on what season you are going for, where's the round symbol on the right second from the top panel?

And... it's the wrong color...

Tom Baker is my Doctor in case your wondering :D

But seriously... nice work!

However, Fans can be stupid picky so you might want to consider what I said, while I was playing the part of The Master (for those of you who are Who Fans, that means devils advocate more or less) :D

Would you like a jelly baby?

James E Baker
01-16-2015, 1:27 PM
Just remember you started this James...

Where's the access point to the phone on the left second from the top panel?
Right here.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/tardis_2015_detail_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/tardis_2015_detail.jpg)

Where's the handle and key hole?
That's the next stage in the design revision.

And depending on what season you are going for, where's the round symbol on the right second from the top panel?
See image above

And... it's the wrong color...
Nope. According to the current BBC Dr Who "Style Guide" (which I was given access to), it's the correct Pantone 2955C colour for the current version. Older versions were different colours.

Tom Baker is my Doctor in case your wondering :D

But seriously... nice work!

However, Fans can be stupid picky so you might want to consider what I said, while I was playing the part of The Master (for those of you who are Who Fans, that means devils advocate more or less) :D

Would you like a jelly baby?

I go back to Season 1, Episode 1, that was first broadcast in Australia when I was 11. I'm 61 now, so I've lived through ALL 50+ years of The Doctor.

Didn't like Hartnell or Troughton. Started watching it seriously in the Pertwee era. Tom Baker IS The Doctor to me. Didn't like Davidson, Baker, McCoy or McGann. I could take or leave the Eccleston era (Billie Piper just grated on me), liked Tennant, less fussed about Smith and Capaldi.

James E Baker
03-03-2015, 3:16 PM
Got some photos back from a client that commissioned a TARDIS as an engagement ring presentation box.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0011_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0011.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0013_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0013.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0017_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0017.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0024_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0024.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0030_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0030.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0034_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0034.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0043_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0043.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0046_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0046.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0048_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0048.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0050_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0050.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0052_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0052.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0055_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/D2015-DLV-0302-0055.jpg)

Lee Reep
03-03-2015, 4:00 PM
Very nicely done! I remember watching a number of episodes with my wife's kid brother when we were home for Christmas in the late 70s. I could not remember the actor's name until I saw the mention of Tom Baker. He was the one. I suppose for many he is the "only" Dr. Who, just like Sean Connery is the "only" James Bond.

Let the fighting begin ... :D

Jess Phiz
03-03-2015, 10:57 PM
Wow your Tardis is amazing!

We made a Tardis Ring Box a couple of years ago for my Sister in Law, She didn't know her boyfriend ordered it, all custom drawn on Coral Draw all flat and hoping they fit together (before we knew how to do things properly).
Its a bit hard to see the detail in the pictures, the front three sides come away to reveal the the ring.

Greg W Watson
03-04-2015, 2:31 PM
Fantastic work :) If you are the same guy from SSM then you have seen mine too


James E Baker
03-04-2015, 3:22 PM
Fantastic work :) If you are the same guy from SSM then you have seen mine too

That's me on SSM.

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:07 PM
My TARDIS model was originally designed as a puzzle that would assemble without glue or fasteners. It's just the tight part tolerance and friction that keeps it all together. I thought this set of 8 posts might be of interest as they show the individual parts that make up the design and how all the parts fit together.

The following images and text relate to the simpler "Flat Roof" design, but 90%+ of these step by step instructions would be followed in the assembly of the painted peaked roof model that I've posted in the more recent photographs.

The pieces used in these photographs were taken straight off the LASER. No cleaning, trimming, or finishing has been done, so there is some smoke staining from the cutting process visible.

The Outer Frame is the first part of the assembly and consists of 4 identical parts that clip together.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_01.jpg)

The design of the integral clips means that the parts just hook together.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_02.jpg)

Lower clips.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_03.jpg)

Upper clips.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_04.jpg)

The clips are slid home and the next frame section is added. Once those clips are locked in place, the final frame section is added. Getting the last section of the frame to mate up with the first section requires a bit of flexing.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_05_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_05.jpg)

But after the last set of clips are locked together, the frame is quite rigid and self supporting.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_06_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_01_Frame_06.jpg)

The upper clips form the edges of the boxing that holds the "Police Box" signage above the door. The lower clips fit into the plinth and are hidden there.

If I was building this as a painted version, I'd run a bead of wood glue down the seam where one edge meets the flat face of the adjoining piece.

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:11 PM
Now that the outer frame is assembled, the next part to be fitted is the bottom framing of the 4 "Police Box" signs.

There are 4 identical pieces, one for each side of the TARDIS.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_01.jpg)

They drop into the 3 holes near the top of the outer frame. The pieces are asymmetric, so they'll only fit one way.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_02.jpg)

Into the holes.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_03.jpg)

Then the pieces are slid sideways to form the bottom of the sign framing (the right side doesn't quite mate up in this photo as the frame clips were not fully seated).

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_02_Police_Box_Lower_04.jpg)

Repeat on the other 3 sides. The next stage will lock these pieces in position.

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:13 PM
Now the main side pieces go on.

Here are 4 pieces that make up the outermost layer of the sides. In earlier versions of my TARDIS, all 4 Outer Side pieces were identical, but a recent revision saw the inclusion of the frame around the "Telephone Access Door" on one of the side pieces.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_03_Outer_Sides_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_03_Outer_Sides_01.jpg)

Each piece is 3mm narrower than the internal dimensions of the outer frame, so the edge of one piece assists to hold the piece beside it in position. These pieces have to be fitted from the bottom of the TARDIS as there are obstructions at the top from the pieces that were fitted in the previous step.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_03_Outer_Sides_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_03_Outer_Sides_02.jpg)

The 3 castellated notches at the top of each of the Outer Side pieces lock in place the piece that was fitted to form the base of frame above the door that holds the "Police Box" signage.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_03_Outer_Sides_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_03_Outer_Sides_03.jpg)

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:17 PM
Now for the Plinth.

The TARDIS is turned over and the two pieces that make up the plinth are fitted.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_01.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_02.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_03.jpg)

Back to right way up.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_04.jpg)

Close up of how the outer frame clips at the bottom are concealed in the plinth.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_05_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_04_Plinth_05.jpg)

If I was planning on painting this model with the later series white window framing, then at this point I'd paint this assembled section ... being especially careful not to get too much paint on the inside as the tight tolerances will make fitting of the next section with the window frames and inner door panels quite difficult. I use an airbrush to apply a thinned down custom mixed colour, satin finish interior latex paint.

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:25 PM
OK, time to fit the inner section of the sides (including the window framing).

The Inner Sides section consists of 4 side pieces and a spreader. The four side pieces are identical in shape, however on later versions, one has a bit of extra engraved detailing (text for the phone door and the St John's badge).

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_01.jpg)

The spreader is fitted into the slot in one of the sides.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_02.jpg)

And the other 3 side pieces are added one by one until all 4 are fitted and you have a loosely held together box that's open at both ends.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_03.jpg)

The whole assembly is slid into the opening at the top of the model. It needs a bit of wiggling to get all the pieces to line up ...

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_04.jpg)

But once it's started, it just slides in.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_05_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_05_Inner_Sides_05.jpg)

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:36 PM
Time for the simulated frosted window glass.

There's 4 pieces of LASER cut drafting film and 4 Masonite pieces that hold the drafting film in position and provide mounting pegs for the roof sections.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_01.jpg)

Looking into the cavity at the top of the TARDIS, you'll see that the spreader piece that holds the "Inner Sides" in position has 8 small holes in it that correspond to the pairs of locating pegs on the masonite pieces. The two small spring clamps are there purely to support the model on an angle for photography.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_02.jpg)

The pegs on the bottom of the first masonite piece are located in the holes. These pieces are 3mm narrower than the cavity width, so when all 4 are in they are basically self supporting.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_03.jpg)

The first piece of simulated frosted glass goes in between the support piece and the previously fitted inner side piece.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_04.jpg)

The support piece is pushed towards the Inner Side, and you repeat the process with the next support piece.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_05_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_05.jpg)

The last one is a bit tricky, but it will go in.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_06_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_06.jpg)

All 4 pieces usually end up at odd heights, but so they'll need to be pushed down to seat properly. As a point of interest the pieces for the "Flat Roof Puzzle" model and the "Peaked Roof" model are different. The "Peaked Roof versions having support pins that are 3mm shorter than the "Flat Roof" models.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_07_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_07.jpg)

And the "Frosted Glass" is in.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_08_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_06_Window_Glass_08.jpg)

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:42 PM
The penultimate step ... the Police Box signage above the door.

Parts consist of an overall cap for the sections already assembled and 4 LASER engraved "Police Box" signs.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_01.jpg)

The 4 Police Box signs have posts that fit into matching slots in the body cap piece. In the "Peaked Roof" model, the Police Box signs are designed to be glued in, so the body cap piece does not have the slots to hold the "Police Box" signage in place.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_02.jpg)

Once the 4 signs are fitted, the entire top cap slips over the 4 long posts (that will serve to locate the roof pieces).

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_03.jpg)

And is pushed down so that it the 4 short posts at the top of each "Inner Side" piece, fit into the matching hole in the top cap and securely locks the top cap in place.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_04.jpg)

All that's left to do is fit the roof sections and the roof light.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_05_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_07_Police_Box_Signs_05.jpg)

James E Baker
03-09-2015, 3:44 PM
The final stage is fitting the roof sections

The roof and roof light consists of 4 LASER cut pieces of Masonite, and a section of the barrel of a Bic Ultra Round Stic Grip ballpoint pen.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_01_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_01.jpg)

The end of the ball point pen barrel is cut off so that you get a section of barrel with the end cap that measures at least 25mm/1 inch.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_02_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_02.jpg)

The roof sections are fitted one by one over the section of the pen barrel.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_03_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_03.jpg)

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_04_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_04.jpg)

And the whole assembly is fitted over the 4 pins.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_05_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_05.jpg)

And the TARDIS is complete.

http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_06_th.jpg (http://www.anobviousdistraction.com/smc15/TARDIS_Puzzle_08_Flat_Roof_06.jpg)