Light reflective lines in wood

[Jim Colombo]

What are those lines that seem to shimmer called? They seem to reflect light differently depending on the angle you hold the wood? I have them in Ambrosia Maple, Figured Maple and Koa. Do they occur in other woods as well?

[David DeCristoforo]

Some love the word "chatoyancy" to describe this. But I prefer "shimmery figure". Much more refined, dontcha think?

[Larry Dubia]

What are those lines that seem to shimmer called? They seem to reflect light differently depending on the angle you hold the wood? I have them in Ambrosia Maple, Figured Maple and Koa. Do they occur in other woods as well?

The wood is chatoyancy as mentioned. It means the changing of luster by reflective light. It is usually described in terms of gem stones like cats eye.

Yes the chatoyancy is seen in quite a few woods. I even turned a piece of clear pine and found it has some chatoyancy.

It is quite eye catching is it not?:D

Larry

[Reed Gray]

The 'look' of the wood can change a lot depending on the wood grain orientation. The light will reflect differently. I had a Myrtle wood coffee table that I made once. Looking from one side, the table was divided into quarters, two darker, two lighter. Looking at it from the other side, the quarters were reversed. Looking at it straight on, the table was very evenly colored. Saw a folding room divider of panels made from cherry in fine woodworking. The wood was all the same color, but with the reflection/refraction of the light, there were waves in the panels. That wood worker had too much time on their hands, but beautiful.

The inner glow of woods is referred to as chatoyance. It is present to a greater degree in woods like mahogany, koa, and myrtle. Not sure why, it just is.

robo hippy

[Jim Colombo]

Now I have a $5 word to add to my vocabulary. Thanks

[David Woodruff]

I am always interested in "chatoyancy" A question to those of you that have observed this light refraction/reflection phenomena in your finished pieces. I would be very interested to know the final bare wood sanding grit used. Also the extent of further finishing. eg. oil, bowl varnish, layered lacquer, etc. It has been my thought that chatoyancy does not present unless the wood is sanded very smooth.

Comments, Thank You

As always shared knowledge is most productive and satisfying.

[John Hart]

Now I have a $5 word to add to my vocabulary. Thanks

Yes...but can you say it?

I just learned how to say it the other day....after 6 years of reading it.:o
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/chatoyancy Click on the little speaker thingy

[David E Keller]

Yes...but can you say it?

I just learned how to say it the other day....after 6 years of reading it.:o
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/chatoyancy Click on the little speaker thingy

Of course it must be said with a French accent to be accepted in the grand turning circles.:D

[John Hart]

Of course it must be said with a French accent to be accepted in the grand turning circles.:D

I just mutter it quietly to myself. I'm not allowed to venture into anyone's "circle". (something about my drool-cup filling up too fast)

People are so snobby. :rolleyes:

[Harvey Schneider]

I am always interested in "chatoyancy" A question to those of you that have observed this light refraction/reflection phenomena in your finished pieces. I would be very interested to know the final bare wood sanding grit used. Also the extent of further finishing. eg. oil, bowl varnish, layered lacquer, etc. It has been my thought that chatoyancy does not present unless the wood is sanded very smooth.

Comments, Thank You

As always shared knowledge is most productive and satisfying.

I have seen it in flat work sanded to 220 grit. I can see it in turnings sanded to 400. I think the difference is that the turnings have more regular patterned scratches from the sanding and this interferes with the impression of the chatoyancy.

[Kurt Barker]

I recently completed 3 flatwork pieces in curly maple, and was highly motivated to preserve the chatoyancy.

After much reading, I ended up sanding to 320 then using the 'Sam Maloof' formulas for finishing. One can Google 'Sam Maloof formula' and get the skinny on the two different compounds.

I ended up doing one coat per day for 7 days - 5 coats of the step 1 and 2 coats of the step 2 - and the chatoyancy was retained nicely.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wow one them there big'uns "chatoyancy". Can't say it but looks good.:D:rolleyes:

[David E Keller]

I just mutter it quietly to myself. I'm not allowed to venture into anyone's "circle". (something about my drool-cup filling up too fast)

People are so snobby. :rolleyes:

The muttering to yourself may be what's keeping you out of 'circles' although I agree the drool cup may be a hindrance as well. What if you were to turn yourself a nice wooden cup?:D

[Leo Van Der Loo]

David I agree that when polished or sanded with very fine grit, the Chatoyance is more evident, but I have seen it coming of the saw, woods like Mulberry and Manitoba Maple for instance show it very often, I think all wood can have it, just like the cottonwood crotch that was shown here the other day also the Manitoba Maple bowls I showed had some, all it takes is some wavy grain, where the light gets broken up into different directions and tricks the eye.

[David Woodruff]

David I agree that when polished or sanded with very fine grit, the Chatoyance is more evident, but I have seen it coming of the saw, woods like Mulberry and Manitoba Maple for instance show it very often, I think all wood can have it, just like the cottonwood crotch that was shown here the other day also the Manitoba Maple bowls I showed had some, all it takes is some wavy grain, where the light gets broken up into different directions and tricks the eye.

Thanks Leo and others for your "chatoyant" comments..I usually can see it more or less, but a Cottonwood Bowl burl turned out absolutely gorgeous some years ago. The chatoyancy actually shimmered above the wood and one had to remember all was flat...My wife wanted to keep it so I told her not to price it.. She did anyway and it promptly sold $750.00. I have not seen that quality of cottonwood burl since. It is easy to work with and finishes fantastic. By the way the greatest commercial use of Cottonwood is mouse traps

[Reed Gray]

Cotton wood is also used in horse stalls. I guess it tastes as sour as it smells, and the horses won't chew on it. Read about this in Wood Shop News some years back.

robo hippy

[Thomas Bennett]

I can't resist showing off some curly maple flat work. It is one of my favorite kinds of wood and a specialty of my cabinet shop. I sand it to 400 and spray on 3-5 coats of poly, sanding in-between coats with 400. Sometomes I will buff out the final coat with finer grits, wax, etc..
Notice the first two photos of the same peice. The grain looks totaly different in each shot. If you catch the light right, it kind of looks like a releif map of mountains.

[David E Keller]

Nice looking stuff you made there, Thomas. That last piece, the table, is fantastic!