Used TS testing

[Kirk Amidon]

So, I have a line on a Dewalt 746 TS locally which I will go look at this weekend. This is to upgrade from my Craftsman TS which I posted about last week.

Is there anything special to this model (known issues etc) to check out prior to purchase? I plan to take a couple of pieces of wood for testing. How might one tell if a saw was lightly used, vs heavily used?

I'll ensure that the basics are covered - top is flat, blade has full movement both up/down and angles, the fence is square, the blade is reasonably square to miter slots etc.

Also, would <$400 be a reasonable price for a lightly used model? It has the 30" fence, steel side extensions (not the cast iron ones available aftermarket).

Thanks

Kirk

[glenn bradley]

I would focus less on alignment and more on function. You will want to do a full alignment once you get the saw home anyway. Unplug the saw and pull the throat plate and with the blade on (watch your pinkies) apply pressure up and down, left and right and feel for anything that might indicate arbor problems; loose fit, shifting left to right, etc.

The fence should slide easily and lock down well. Here again adjustments will be made once you are home. I guess a general looking over for any signs that the owner might have been a ham-handed neanderthal (no offense to non-tailed-tool wielding neanderthals). I would be disinclined to pay any more than $400 for that particular model but the price seems fair if it is in good shape. I have seen posts from many folks who own and are pretty happy with that saw.

[ken gibbs]

Try the nickel method. Run the saw with a coin standing on edge. If the bearings are in good shape, the coin will just stand there. And listen for any type of high pitched bearing noise which would tell you the saw has had some heavy use. If you see any vibration, don't buy it.

[ken gibbs]

I would focus less on alignment and more on function. You will want to do a full alignment once you get the saw home anyway. Unplug the saw and pull the throat plate and with the blade on (watch your pinkies) apply pressure up and down, left and right and feel for anything that might indicate arbor problems; loose fit, shifting left to right, etc.

The fence should slide easily and lock down well. Here again adjustments will be made once you are home. I guess a general looking over for any signs that the owner might have been a ham-handed neanderthal (no offense to non-tailed-tool wielding neanderthals). I would be disinclined to pay any more than $400 for that particular model but the price seems fair if it is in good shape. I have seen posts from many folks who own and are pretty happy with that saw.
What you are lookng for is worn main bearings. Try the nickel method by standing a nickle on edge. It should just stand there when you hit the red start switch and continue to stand there with no visible vibration. If you hear any high pitched whining noise, you may have some bearing wear that could cost you a lot of cash.

[Matt Day]

Worn belts, or belts that have sat motionless for a long time will transmit vibration and knock that nickle right over. Belts are an easy fix, so I'm not sure I'd go by the nickel test right away.

I agree with checking the play in the bearings and function of the saw blade movement (blade up/down/tilt) as described above though.

[scott spencer]

$400 seems pretty good if its in good shape. I agree with Glenn and others about the alignment....that's adjustable and you'll want to get it right, but it's not a factor in the buying decision unless something's obviously wrong with the alignment that can't be corrected.

The nickel test is kind of fun, but not overly scientific or indicative of a problem. Some nickels have have rounded edges, some are nice and flat, etc...too many sources of variability. A good saw can stick kick over a nickel.

Table flatness is a good to have, but any deviation from flat would have to be pretty significant to have much outcome on the cut....its wood.

Check for overall condition...if it's looks like it's been well cared for is a good sign. Dents and excessive rust are signs of neglect. Checking the bearings is a very good idea, but even those are reasonable to replace if there's a problem. Run the motor without the belt...it should be smooth and quiet. Check underneath with a flashlight for any major cracks in the trunnions. Any issues should be noted and negotiated.

Good luck and please let us know how you make out.

[Kirk Amidon]

Well, picked up the Dewalt today, got a fair deal as far as I can tell. 300 including manual, 2 miter gauges, an extra fence rail set, and the ubiquitous crappy blade to throw away later. :)

After 15 minutes removing some surface rust and waxing the top - the rails were reattached. Still need to figure out why the measuring tape on the rails is off roughly 3/8" and will also need a little bit more clean up but overall, she looks good.

Should be a solid upgrade from the ole 113.x craftsman.

I know, pics or it did not happen:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b266/nodima/Misc/NewTS.jpg

[glenn bradley]

Looking pretty good there Kirk. I take the fence and wings off for my preliminary alignment of the blade at 90* and 45*. Its just easier to get around things and you are apt to follow through instead of settling for good enough and having to go back after getting frustrated later.

I think that saw has table mounted trunnions which can be a bit bothersome during alignment. When I am going to align a machine I put myself in the right frame of mind; I plan to take as much time as it takes, I don't get rushed or frustrated if I have to do a step once more even though I've already done it 4 times. That is just part of the deal sometimes. Take your time, you will be glad you did.

Congrats!

[Bob Vallaster]

Re: "...need to figure out why the measuring tape on the rails is off roughly 3/8"...
Do this last. Zero depends on where the blade ends up after adjusting the blade parallel to the miter slot and then adjusting the fence for parallelism.
When at last you get to the tape issue, you might find some lateral adjustment for the front rail (depends on the saw design). You should find adjustment for the plastic window/cursor in the head of the T-square; most have slotted holes in the plastic pane. Set the fence to just touch the blade (zero width cut), lock the fence, adjust cursor to zero, tighten screws to hold window position.
If that doesn't work, you can fab your own window pane from 1/8 plastic. A scribed line with a trace of paint (wipe off excess before it dries) makes a dandy cursor.

BobV

[Greg Portland]

Still need to figure out why the measuring tape on the rails is off roughly 3/8"My guess would be that the previous owner used it with a sacrificial fence and adjusted the tape so he/she wouldn't have to do math on the fly for each cut. As Bob mentioned, there are a variety of ways to compensate for this.