Which Block Plane?

[Larry Anderson]

Can someone recommend a block plane that won't break the bank. Primary use will be fine tuning tenon thickness. Veritas and Lie-Nielsen are nice but oh so expensive.

Larry

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

This one is very nice. (http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/+CT-17+Dual+Angle+Block+Plane)

[john brenton]

Is that for making wooden lunar modules?


This one is very nice. (http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/+CT-17+Dual+Angle+Block+Plane)

[Deane Allinson]

A vintage Stanley 140 skew block plane would fit the bill. I had a nice one years ago and got low on money and sold it. Wish I had it back. The side is removable to get up close. It is not as user friendly as a 60 1/2" but what is.

[Larry Anderson]

Is that for making wooden lunar modules?

The government is the only one who could afford it. Well maybe not afford it, but buy several anyway.

[Chris Vandiver]

A Stanley 140 would be very hard to find and if it was in good user condition, it would probably cost more than Lie Nielsen or Veritas.
You might want to look at the LN 60 1/2R(rabbet block plane), Very nice plane. A wide shoulder plane is another option.

Larry, on another note, I knew a Larry Anderson when I lived in Yosemite National Park back in the late 1960's and early 1970's. Does this happen to be you.

[Deane Allinson]

[QUOTE=Chris Vandiver;1497174]A Stanley 140 would be very hard to find and if it was in good user condition, it would probably cost more than Lie Nielsen or Veritas.


You are correct about the cost of the 140. I wasn't thinking. I bought mine in the 80's for $10. and sold it for $25ish. I be stupid.

[Leigh Betsch]

You an make one like this pretty cheap if you have a few hardwood scraps and a blade.

[Ken Werner]

I think there is good value in an old Stanley 60 1/2. It's a low angle block, that the LN 60 1/2 is patterned after. You see used ones fairly often for about $25-45. You could even post a WTB in the classifieds. If you like the LN, but the cost is prohibitive, this is a decent alternative.

I had a Record 60 1/2, and it is a completely different plane, much worse, IMO than the Stanley.

A block plane isn't ideal for fine tuning tenon thickness though, unless you get a rabbetting one, and you then are back to your "won't break the bank" issue. To fine tune tenons, a router plane works very well too, and can also be had vintage, in the $35-65 range.

[Tri Hoang]

You are most likely talking about rabbeting block planes. There aren't that many choices & their costs do not really favor older planes. If you must get one of these rabbeting block planes, go with the Veritas skew rabbet. It's price/performance is unbeatable.

[Ken Werner]

I agree with Tri on the LV skew rabbet, if you can handle the price.

[Larry Anderson]

Larry, on another note, I knew a Larry Anderson when I lived in Yosemite National Park back in the late 1960's and early 1970's. Does this happen to be you.

Probably not, I came to Sonora in 1972.

[John Coloccia]

I apologize if this is a dumb question but I ask only because I don't see you posting in the Neanderthal section much. What were your thoughts on sharpening the plane? I guess I just want to be sure you've budgeted for sharpening equipment (assuming you don't have any), and if you haven't maybe we can point you in the right direction. Scary sharp, in particular, because it's dirt cheap to get started.

[Jim Koepke]

This one is very nice. (http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/+CT-17+Dual+Angle+Block+Plane)

Jim,

Larry wanted one that wouldn't break the bank, that one would break Fort Knox.

jim

[Jim Koepke]

Larry,

For inexpensive, I would have to agree with others that the router plane may be the way to go. Search here on SMC to find more information on that.

You could even make your own to start.

Another inexpensive option might be a wooden body rabbet plane.

An old shoulder plane is going to run a bit more and may require some tuning that can be tricky if one has not fettled a few planes already.

Some will also tell you that it is quite possible to trim a tenon with a chisel. They are right, it just takes a little time and a sharp chisel.

jim

[Larry Anderson]

Starting to look like there is no cheap solution. For the amount of use it would get I'm thinking I may be better off to continue using a chisel.

[John Thompson]

Starting to look like there is no cheap solution. For the amount of use it would get I'm thinking I may be better off to continue using a chisel.

I dis-agree Larry... I don't post in this section often but I can tell you that it is not necessary to have a high quality block.. rabbet.. shoulder plane to fine tune a tenon. You state you already have a chisel so... get a simple Stanley block plane (I've been using one for 39 years now an in the shop daily) and a simple wood rasp. I've done thousands of tenons since I took up the hobby with the above.

[Tri Hoang]

There are a number of tools to trim tenons: rasps/files, sand paper, chisels, shoulder plane, router plane, block plane/chisel, rabbet block plane. The best way, of course, is to saw it to fit. When there isn't much to trim, rasp/file is probably the quickest. When the tenon is wide, planes make it easier/faster/more precise. Some just use chisels.

BTW, there are lots more uses for a rabbet block plane besides trimming tenons - especially a skew one like the Veritas.

[John Thompson]

Have to agree about a number of ways Tri. If it's taking more than a few minutes to trim a tenon to size probably need to go back to ground zero and develope layout-sawing skill. And I agree that a rabbet skew plane is a valuable tool but.. the OP stated clearly he couldn't afford to purchase a plane in that price category and nobody to my knowledge other than LN makes one new.

[Stephen Cherry]

for trimming tenons, as well as normal block plane stuff, I would recommend sucking it up for a lifetime investment, and getting the Lie Nielsen rabbet block plane, nickers optional.

After the initial sticker shock and payment, you won't be sorry.

[Richard Niemiec]

If you're looking to go cheap, the standard angle block plane of choice is a vintage Stanley 9 1/2; in good to excellent shape, they go for about $35 to $40 in the classifieds below, more often found in the S&S over on WoodNet. If you find them in the wild, maybe $20 and condition can be an issue. You can also pick up a Stanley 220 for less than $20 in the wild, and its not as fancy as the 9 1/2, e.g., iron adjustment and sole adjustability, but for the bargain sensitive among us, it will do yeoman's work and is often overlooked.

While we are talking cheap, for trimming shoulders or such, there are plenty of old woodie shoulder planes at flea markets that can be had for a song, just learn how to adjust them, and look for one with a decent iron. $10 is a lot to pay for them, and they work just fine. As with all wooden planes, there's a learning curve, but you'll get over it. Someone else also mentioned a router plane; buy some irons and make your own.

OTOH, if you want to drop $150 or so, the LN low angel rabbeting block plane, a Sargent design copy, is a really nice plane and can go both ways. God help you finding an original vintage model of one of these, they are not common and when found are expensive, too expensive when the LN one exists and is a better plane.

Same for the LV medium shoulder plane, great plane and worth every penny, but get out your credit card. Personally, I wouldn't be without mine. Rob Lee makes nice planes and I have willingly plunked down to own several.

[Larry Anderson]

Thanks to all for your input.

Right or wrong I've ordered a Stanley 90 Bullnose Rabbet Plane from Woodcraft.

Larry

[Harlan Barnhart]

Can someone recommend a block plane that won't break the bank. Primary use will be fine tuning tenon thickness. Veritas and Lie-Nielsen are nice but oh so expensive.

Larry

I recently built four doors with large tenons (3/4"x3"x6"). I found that a cabinet scraper with a blade that extends to the edge works well at taking extremely small amounts of material cross grain. Even skew planes don't work as dependably cross grain.

[Jacob Mac]

Thanks to all for your input.

Right or wrong I've ordered a Stanley 90 Bullnose Rabbet Plane from Woodcraft.

Larry

Be sure to let us know how it works.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I recently built four doors with large tenons (3/4"x3"x6"). I found that a cabinet scraper with a blade that extends to the edge works well at taking extremely small amounts of material cross grain. Even skew planes don't work as dependably cross grain.

That's a very good, inexpensive, simple solution. I like that very much. Very tricky.

[lowell holmes]

I've been using a large router plane, a 71 1/2.

I have a LN 140, 60 1/2 R, and a Veritas medium shoulder plane.

I also have LN jointery float. I use the float and the 71 1/2 more times than the others.

[Richard Niemiec]

Thanks to all for your input.

Right or wrong I've ordered a Stanley 90 Bullnose Rabbet Plane from Woodcraft.

Larry

Larry, you might want to rethink, as the bed of a 90 really does not lend itself to tenon trimming, not enough length to register properly. For another $10-15 or so, upgrade to a 92 or 93 if its not too late. Been there and done that about 15 years ago. Just sayin......

[steven c newman]

My block plane is an old stanley 110. For most tenons, I just use a sharp chisel. I have made a wood-bodied chisel plane. I use that for the bottoms of rabbets and dados. The old 110? Still has the original blade in it. Yep, I'm just cheap.;)

[Larry Anderson]

Larry, you might want to rethink, as the bed of a 90 really does not lend itself to tenon trimming, not enough length to register properly. For another $10-15 or so, upgrade to a 92 or 93 if its not too late. Been there and done that about 15 years ago. Just sayin......

Thanks for the suggestion, I will call and change the order in the AM. They are all backordered 'till mid Sept.