Jim Koepke
08-23-2010, 1:57 AM
This is a project that will use compound angles in the construction of a sawing table or a fancy saw horse. Figured since it was being built, it would be fun to document it and share it.
A saw horse (or saw table) is one of the basic allies in a woodworkers arsenal.
The basic design is useful for many other things. A basic saw horse design was used to make a stand for a large piece of granite in my shop. This is used with sandpaper to lap plane soles and for chisels and plane blades that need extensive work.
Another horse was made to hold logs for cutting with a chain saw.
A couple of regular horses are very utilitarian for use outside and even for setting up a table for family outings.
Then there are a couple of low horses that are handy to hold things off the floor for sanding and finishing.
Since some scraps were just begging to be used and I have wanted to make a saw table for quite a while, it seemed like time to get started. The 2X4 scrap came from pallets that one of the local building supply/lumber dealers leaves out for people to take away. The piece used for the top was in the scrap bin at Home Depot and cost a whole 51¢ plus tax. When ever we go to the HD, this is one of my normal stops. I have bought some nice cutoffs for cheap.
159220
This could likely be done with one less bevel gauge and just one chisel. A long chisel is good for the leverage and short chisels are better for the close work or in tight corners.
159221
I like to use two bevel gauges for added ease. These are set to 15° by first using a protractor to draw a reference line on the work piece. This allows for quick checking during the project. My saw horses have all the angles at 15° since that is how I learned to make my first pair.
Some people like theirs made at 10°. It is all up to the person making them.
The legs and top were planed on the outside surfaces. Both ends of the top were planed and the legs were planed at the ends that were to be joined to the top. This is done because it makes for a better line from a marking gauge then if they are left rough.
The top was cut to length, about 30" and using scrap wood rough measurements were figured for a height of approximately 24" with the the splayed legs not extending beyond the ends.
This was used to mark how far the leg would be from the ends. From there the first lines were laid out for the legs position. Then the legs were marked with symbols and the underside of the top was marked to match. Each leg was then balanced in place to mark the width of the socket for each leg. I like to mark for a slight undercut and then pare off a shaving from the edge of the socket or plane a shaving or two off the leg to fit.
159222
Lines were then marked on the top and underside. Since I wanted the legs to be flush or close to flush at the top edge, the wheel gauge was set to about half the width of a 2X4 or 3/4". This was marked on the top and then on one of the ends. A bevel gauge was lined up with this mark on the end and a line was struck along the gauge. The wheel gauge was set to the shorter distance and that was used to mark the underside of the leg socket.
159223
All the layout was done with a wheel gauge or a knife. A sharp pencil was used in the knife cuts as needed.
After all the layout is checked and leg and matching sockets labeled, the sawing begins.
159224
An old friend showed my his way of trimming the waste out. He made multiple cuts in the work with his saw. Of course, he was using a radial arm saw. I still do it with hand saws, it makes it a bit easier to chisel out the waste. I try to remember to stay a little shy of the depth lines when doing this.
After sawing the socket, I like to chamfer the waste to the depth lines before cutting it out.
159225
Once the main part of the waste is removed the "bottom" of the socket is fine tuned by being pared smooth.
159226
When finished, the bevel gauge is used to check the angle.
159227
Sliding the bevel along the bottom of the socket should reveal any bumps or places left to pare away.
To be Continued
jim
A saw horse (or saw table) is one of the basic allies in a woodworkers arsenal.
The basic design is useful for many other things. A basic saw horse design was used to make a stand for a large piece of granite in my shop. This is used with sandpaper to lap plane soles and for chisels and plane blades that need extensive work.
Another horse was made to hold logs for cutting with a chain saw.
A couple of regular horses are very utilitarian for use outside and even for setting up a table for family outings.
Then there are a couple of low horses that are handy to hold things off the floor for sanding and finishing.
Since some scraps were just begging to be used and I have wanted to make a saw table for quite a while, it seemed like time to get started. The 2X4 scrap came from pallets that one of the local building supply/lumber dealers leaves out for people to take away. The piece used for the top was in the scrap bin at Home Depot and cost a whole 51¢ plus tax. When ever we go to the HD, this is one of my normal stops. I have bought some nice cutoffs for cheap.
159220
This could likely be done with one less bevel gauge and just one chisel. A long chisel is good for the leverage and short chisels are better for the close work or in tight corners.
159221
I like to use two bevel gauges for added ease. These are set to 15° by first using a protractor to draw a reference line on the work piece. This allows for quick checking during the project. My saw horses have all the angles at 15° since that is how I learned to make my first pair.
Some people like theirs made at 10°. It is all up to the person making them.
The legs and top were planed on the outside surfaces. Both ends of the top were planed and the legs were planed at the ends that were to be joined to the top. This is done because it makes for a better line from a marking gauge then if they are left rough.
The top was cut to length, about 30" and using scrap wood rough measurements were figured for a height of approximately 24" with the the splayed legs not extending beyond the ends.
This was used to mark how far the leg would be from the ends. From there the first lines were laid out for the legs position. Then the legs were marked with symbols and the underside of the top was marked to match. Each leg was then balanced in place to mark the width of the socket for each leg. I like to mark for a slight undercut and then pare off a shaving from the edge of the socket or plane a shaving or two off the leg to fit.
159222
Lines were then marked on the top and underside. Since I wanted the legs to be flush or close to flush at the top edge, the wheel gauge was set to about half the width of a 2X4 or 3/4". This was marked on the top and then on one of the ends. A bevel gauge was lined up with this mark on the end and a line was struck along the gauge. The wheel gauge was set to the shorter distance and that was used to mark the underside of the leg socket.
159223
All the layout was done with a wheel gauge or a knife. A sharp pencil was used in the knife cuts as needed.
After all the layout is checked and leg and matching sockets labeled, the sawing begins.
159224
An old friend showed my his way of trimming the waste out. He made multiple cuts in the work with his saw. Of course, he was using a radial arm saw. I still do it with hand saws, it makes it a bit easier to chisel out the waste. I try to remember to stay a little shy of the depth lines when doing this.
After sawing the socket, I like to chamfer the waste to the depth lines before cutting it out.
159225
Once the main part of the waste is removed the "bottom" of the socket is fine tuned by being pared smooth.
159226
When finished, the bevel gauge is used to check the angle.
159227
Sliding the bevel along the bottom of the socket should reveal any bumps or places left to pare away.
To be Continued
jim