Which router?

[Greg Urwiller]

I have plans to build a router table in the near future. And of course I'd like to put some kind of lift in it too. I have 3 routers now, an old B&D (which doesn't enter in to this discussion), a Freud 2000E, and a Hitachi 12V. Neither router, the Freud/Hitachi, ever seem to be mentioned in the same sentence with "router lift". So apparently there are a lot better choices out there. Anyone ever use these? It seems like the routers that show up on web sites the most frequently are the PC 690/890, the Bosch 1617/1618, and the Milwaukee (whatever model ?). So, are these the go to models for lifts/router tables? Greg

[scott spencer]

If you're going to spring for table router and lift, might as well go with one of the big guns....MW5625 or PC7518. FWIW, the Freud FT3000 has a full compliment of above table features that allow one handed above the table bit changes and adjustments without going below, but I have no idea how it mates with a lift.

[Heather Thompson]

Greg,

I started with the PC690 in my lift (Woodpecker PRL) but soon upgraded to the PC 7518 for the multi speed ability. The PRL lift requires a special bracket to hold the 690 so if you go that route let me know and I will hook you up with a good deal.

Heather

[Van Huskey]

IF you are going to get a lift and motor I prefer the PC 7518, there is a reason that every HD router lift is designed for it and adapted to other motors.

IF you prefer a non-lift using a plunge with good above table control built in the big Triton or Freud 3000

[Chip Lindley]

P-C 7518! Nuff sed!

[Paul McGaha]

I like Porter Cable Routers. Lots of accessories available for Porter Cable Routers.

I liked Porter Cable portable tools in general for woodworking or at least I used to. I would have hoped the new ownership woudnt change the Porter Cable tools but they have.

PHM

[Michael Simpson Virgina]

For years I used a Bosch 1617evs under my home made router table. The only problem I ever had was it was a pain to adjust the height of the bit.

In march this year at the local woodworking show I purchased the monster rockler table and lift thingy. Its designed be default to use the PC 7518 which I purchased just for this table.

I have more money tied up in this router table than I care to admit. I could have purchased a nice shaper and some cutters.

That said I can do things that I could never do with my old shaper (grizzly). I love the rockler touter lift and the ability to just dial in the height. The one thing I would do different is to stay away from PC routers. I think they are just pure crap. They could not make a decent collet if their life depended on it.

My PC 890 gets so dang hot (bad berings) that Its just a matter of time before it quits out alltogether. Since the rockler lift system just uses the spindle portion of the router you can get adapters to fit just about any router spindle.

I do recomend going with a router of at least 3hp if you are going to use the table for panel doors and large dados.

Just do yourself a favor and stay away from PC or dewalt routers. I know they are easy to purchase as all the big box stores carry them. But they all use cheap bearings. A long time ago Craftman tools used to be some of the best. The sold out and earned the name crapsman. PErsonaly I think PC as done the same now.

FYI my 7518 is ok. (Just ok) I had to purchase 3 collets befor I got one that did not vibrate like crap. The main problem the 7518 has is that at lower speeds it can get bogged down if you are doing heavy cuts.

Many say they like PC tools. I then ask what other tools have you tried. Once you try a Festool or other highend profecional router you may change your mind.

[Will Overton]

Made by Milwaukee for Jessem, I use one of these in a WoodPecker PRL-V2. You would need to contact Jessem to see if they still have them, but it's worth the effort. Prior to this I used a standard Milwaukee 5625, which replaced a PC 690 in my router table.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/Bill_de/router-1.jpg?t=12825605505626

[Jerome Stanek]

If you do go with the PC you could get a precision collet from here. On the CNC forums they get great reviews.

http://www.precisebits.com/products/equipment/pc_collets_nuts.asp

[Thomas S Stockton]

Google router-raizer or something close to that, it modifies your Hitachi router to be able to raise it from the top of the table. I used a hitachi router for close to 20 years in a router table it worked great. I prefer to pull the whole thing out to set it up it puts it at a more convenient height for me to adjust.
Tom

[Greg Wease]

Lifts are designed to be used with router motors with removeable bases rather than your dedicated plungers. Remove the springs and they work OK in a table but changing bits is a hassle. I used an old Dewalt pluner for a while, then changed to a Bosch 1617evs which is fine for light to medium jobs in a table but can't handle the big panel raisers. Go for one of the big routers mentioned above and make sure the lift opening is big enough for large diameter bits.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

you want it to fit your lift.
The are expensive enough that you may actually want to source that first.
Then you want power and good bearings and speed control.

After that it's an open casting call.

The Festertool people told me that their routers have dual bearings up front.
I don't know whether I can believe them, but it's worth checking out.

The bearings people put in routers are universally - in every instance - the wrong bearings to use in that application. They are, however, cheaper. So they get used. The proper bearing would be tapered needle spindle bearings on a pre-set torque load.

[Stephen Cherry]

Mastrlift, and Porter Cable.

[glenn bradley]

Woodpecker PRL and Milwaukee 5625 here. I have run it frequently for almost 3 years without a blink. The only time I open the door to reach under the table is to change speeds for large bits.

[Andy Haney]

I have this set-up, and it works fine for me. I'm not a really frequent user, but that may represent lower cost for you. I'm not even certain the lift is still available.

Andy Haney

[Peter Quinn]

I think pretty much any router can be put in a lift, if the lift is made by Jessum. I have a jessum rout-r-lift and its plate had bolt holes for my old old old pre-home cheepo Ryobi (yes, ryobi was a real tool company before they got in bed with that nasty orange fellow). Its so old nobody else supports it, but Jessum had a hole pattern in their lift for it! Surely they support the hitachi.

I added and extreme extension for above table bit changes, and it works great.

That said the PC 7518 is a beast, the motor is fantastic, I have one for free hand work, it can be had "motor only" for dedicated table mounting, and if I had not been given the old ryobi by a retired wood worker I would probably be using the big PC in the lift. When the ryobi dies, if ever, I will probably put the PC 7518 in the table.

I have several bosch routers, and while they are my prefered weapon above the table for regular use, I find they don't do well mechanically upside down in a dust hole, and they are a general PIA to work with below the table anyway.

[Peter Quinn]

I think pretty much any router can be put in a lift, if the lift is made by Jessum. I have a jessum rout-r-lift and its plate had bolt holes for my old old old pre-home cheepo Ryobi (yes, ryobi was a real tool company before they got in bed with that nasty orange fellow). Its so old nobody else supports it, but Jessum had a hole pattern in their lift for it! Surely they support the hitachi.

I added an extreme extension for above table bit changes, and it works great.

That said the PC 7518 is a beast, the motor is fantastic, I have one for free hand work, it can be had "motor only" for dedicated table mounting, and if I had not been given the old ryobi by a retired wood worker I would probably be using the big PC in the lift. When the ryobi dies, if ever, I will probably put the PC 7518 in the table.

I have several bosch routers, and while they are my prefered weapon above the table for regular use, I find they don't do well mechanically upside down in a dust hole, and they are a general PIA to work with below the table anyway.

[michael case]

What is the Hitachi 12 volt you refer to? Are we talking about the big honking 3 horse plunge router Hitachi started making in the 90s? If we are, and your willing to forgo the convenience of a router lift, you can save two to three hundred on the lift and a couple of hundred or more on the router motor. A $500 dollar savings! I've had the old Hitachi 3 hp plunger in a router table for 15 years. Its actually survived four table upgrades and is still in service. The bearings and motor on that machine are top notch. If we are talking about the same Hitachi router, I would definitely employ it and save a bundle.

[Jesse Wilson]

Milwaukee 5625 IMHO

[Curt Harms]

I have plans to build a router table in the near future. And of course I'd like to put some kind of lift in it too. I have 3 routers now, an old B&D (which doesn't enter in to this discussion), a Freud 2000E, and a Hitachi 12V. Neither router, the Freud/Hitachi, ever seem to be mentioned in the same sentence with "router lift". So apparently there are a lot better choices out there. Anyone ever use these? It seems like the routers that show up on web sites the most frequently are the PC 690/890, the Bosch 1617/1618, and the Milwaukee (whatever model ?). So, are these the go to models for lifts/router tables? Greg

Get a router Raizer and be happy. Around $50 from Grizzly.

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Router-Razer/H3576

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Router-Raizer-RZ200/H4333

Make sure you get the right one. I have the FT2000E with a router raizer and it works fine. Some complain about the opening of the FT2000E not being able to clear a 3 1/2" panel raising bit. Just lower the bit as much as possible then set the fence so the entire bit is not cutting. Then make another pass or two. I have better luck with larger bits making multiple passes anyway. Of course I'm not a production shop.

P.S. Some have put a metal cutting blade in a jigsaw and performed surgery on FT2000Es so they will clear 3 1/2" bits. I haven't felt the need.