Drawer Construction Question

[Dennis Putnam]

Well there seems to be as many ways to construct a drawer box (I'll worry about the fronts later) as there are members of this forum. I am trying to KISS since this is my first try. I think I have the dimension issues figured out except depth so I'm really asking about the construction itself. I have watched our buddy Norm make lots of drawers so I think I know what to do but I want to make sure I understand why I'm doing it. I made a box joint jig so I plan to make box joints (I can't afford that fancy dovetail jig Norm uses more recently). However, when I watch Norm, he box joints only the front corners and dado's the back panel. Is that for simplicity, strength, or what? If I use that technique, how much of the side panels should extend beyond the back panel? I've seen some that have very little and others that seem to have quite a bit.

Although these will be fairly large drawers (the opening is 12 3/4 X 21 3/8 and the cabinet is 28 deep), I think 1/2 ply all the way around will still be sufficient. Nothing really heavy will be going into them. If I can find 26" side slides easily I'll use them but I know I can get 24" otherwise. Either way I think that is plenty of room for that type box construction.

Thanks.

[Chip Lindley]

My solution for basic drawers: (without over-simplifying)

If you insist on 1/2" ply for large drawer boxes, cut rabbets in the front and back of each side, 3/16" deep X the ply thickness. Front and back pieces will correspondingly be 3/8" wider than the inside drawer width.

Cut a groove in all sides and backs, 3/16" deep X the bottom panel thickness. Make the groove 1/2" from the bottom edge of all drawer pieces. Bottom panels will be 3/8" larger than the drawer inside dimension.

Dry fit each drawer to see that everything fits squarely. (you can hold it all together with a long bungee cord) Any variation will be very obvious as open joints or unsquare. When satisfied with the fit, glue the corners well; don't skimp. Any fastener have little holding power in 1/2" ply. Finish nails; air brad nails, or narrow crown staples mainly serve to hold the box in register until the glue dries.

To assemble, attach sides to the back, then slip the floor into the grooves. Glue the floor in its groove all around; this is were much of the drawer's rigidity comes from. Then attach the front. If your parts are cut accurately, everything will fall together. You'll be surprised!

[Norman Pyles]

If you want to keep it really simple, dado the back like Norm, and use a locking rabbet for the front.

[Robert Reece]

I do KISS+.
All my drawers are butt jointed, screwed with #10 x 2 1/8" screws and plugged with contrasting wood. The plugging is the + part of the KISS+.
It's a simple drawer to build. Just get a good pilot / countersink combination and you can do the drilling pretty quickly.
I do use 5/8" maple though, so I am not sure this will work with 1/2 ply.

You can get 26" slides, check out wwhardware.com.

[glenn bradley]

KISS = Pocket Holes. I prefer the locking rabbet Norman stated although I do them front and back as opposed to dadoing; one less setup.

[Greg Wease]

There are lots of options for drawer joinery. Once your box joint jig is adjusted it doesn't take much longer to use it for both front and back joints. I have had mixed results with box joints on plywood due to tearout so I usually reserve this technique for solid wood. All the stress on the drawer from opening/closing is on the front so joinery at the rear is up to you. With full-extension slides (both 26" and 28" are readily available BTW) I position the back as deep as possible to maximize drawer volume. For self-guiding drawers (no slides) I put the back in dadoes spaced in an inch or more since you can't extend the drawer fully.

Most of my shop and office drawers are made with 1/2" or 5/8" plywood depending on drawer size. Joints are made with #0 or #10 biscuits and I have never had a failure. That's my KISS preference.

[Dennis Putnam]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess my only question was raised by Greg's comment about tear-out. I was concerned with tear-out using box joints but wouldn't I have the same concern with locking rabbet joints? Are 1/4 dado cuts correct for 1/2 ply?