Problem running 3/4in blade. [Archive] - Sawmill Creek Woodworking Community

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Matt Logana

08-20-2010, 9:43 PM

I just picked up a 3/4in Timberwolf blade at WoodCraft (no wonder you guys like it... good place... but not-so-good prices... :( )

But the problem is, it seems to be tracking funny. It keeps tracking toward the rear, then toward the front, so on and so forth.

At once point when i was hand rotating the wheels, it started cutting into my guard... which didnt make me happy, since its a $35 blade...:eek:(Yea not as expensive as those Laguana or Lenox TriMasters... but expensive to my usual $10 specials...)

Its making funny noises as well, like its grinding on something. I surrender to the SMC gods.. I have no idea what the heck I am doing... since I usually use 3/8s blades...

Heres what I know:

-The saw can properly tension 3/4s (These timberwolf ones tell you to start to back down the tension till it flutters.... then up 1 turn. When I did that I stopped the saw to see the wheel. I then turned it back on, resulting in chaos in the wheel housing....)

-This is a big (donkey) blade that I dont exactly want to mess around with.

I may have a friend take a look-see.

David Christopher

08-20-2010, 10:05 PM

sounds like you just got a bad blade.
I would try to return it before I cut a piece of wood

Howard Acheson

08-20-2010, 10:09 PM

What size saw do you have? If it's a 14" Delta clone, a 3/4" blade can be problematic. These saws are happiest with a 1/2" resaw blade.

Ruperto Mendiones

08-20-2010, 10:11 PM

On what machine are you mounting this 3/4 blade?

Are you using the timberwolf instructions to conclude the saw can tension properly?

Odd noises? where does the blade contact the machine?

There is a great article in FWW about 10 y ago on setting up a bandsaw. Most of what I know comes from that article.

Best,

Ruperto

Matt Logana

08-20-2010, 10:12 PM

What size saw do you have? If it's a 14" Delta clone, a 3/4" blade can be problematic. These saws are happiest with a 1/2" resaw blade.

Its not a Delta 14" Clone..... Its a Delta 14" saw...

sounds like you just got a bad blade.
I would try to return it before I cut a piece of wood

It cuts fine on full tension (Already used it to square a piece of wood) but at the recommended tension it binds.

Lance Norris

08-20-2010, 10:22 PM

It cuts fine on full tension (Already used it to square a piece of wood) but at the recommended tension it binds.

OK. so use it at the tension where it runs best. Recommended tension( whatever it is) is simply a guideline. You have to find where your saw runs best. When blades are made and welded, they may be slightly longer or slightly shorter than what the saw actually requires. There is some adjustment needed with different blades.

Will Overton

08-20-2010, 10:29 PM

I think Lance hit the nail on the head. If you got the blade to cut to your satisfaction, that's the correct tension.

Van Huskey

08-21-2010, 2:15 AM

Its not a Delta 14" Clone..... Its a Delta 14" saw...

It cuts fine on full tension (Already used it to square a piece of wood) but at the recommended tension it binds.

What Howard was asking was is it a 14" cast saw, the general rule is a 14" cast clone (or true Delta) can NOT tension a 3/4" blade properly. My rule of thumb for best resaw on a 14" cast saw is a thin 1/2" blade like the Highland Woodslicer, Iturra Blade Runner or Lenox Kerfmaster.

I have never felt comfortable with the TM tensioning recomendations as it flies in the face of conventional wisdom, you need 15,000 PSI on a carbon blade. In any event you are getting the best cut at the full tension the saw can provide, probably less than you really need for the blade but you are at least in the neighborhood.

Again, if you want the best resaw on a 14" cast saw grab one of the above listed blades, the best performance to value is the Lenox from Spectrum Supply.

Matt Logana

08-21-2010, 9:30 AM

What Howard was asking was is it a 14" cast saw, the general rule is a 14" cast clone (or true Delta) can NOT tension a 3/4" blade properly. My rule of thumb for best resaw on a 14" cast saw is a thin 1/2" blade like the Highland Woodslicer, Iturra Blade Runner or Lenox Kerfmaster.

I have never felt comfortable with the TM tensioning recomendations as it flies in the face of conventional wisdom, you need 15,000 PSI on a carbon blade. In any event you are getting the best cut at the full tension the saw can provide, probably less than you really need for the blade but you are at least in the neighborhood.

Again, if you want the best resaw on a 14" cast saw grab one of the above listed blades, the best performance to value is the Lenox from Spectrum Supply.

I intentionally got a low tension blade, so that it can tension up.

Anyway, this saw has been giving me so much hell, I might look into selling it... then getting a Grizzly or Jet...

Darius Ferlas

08-21-2010, 9:41 AM

I had a similar issue with my 14" General. I switched to a 1/2". Much better.

Van Huskey

08-21-2010, 10:02 AM

I intentionally got a low tension blade, so that it can tension up.

Anyway, this saw has been giving me so much hell, I might look into selling it... then getting a Grizzly or Jet...

Count me as one of the (few) people that does not buy the TM low tension hype, I just have issues with anything that is counter-intuative AND I can't seem to make it work for me. I have just found bands and procedures that work better for ME. I am also one of those people that has never gotten good results with a 3/4" blade on a 14" cast saw, I have found that a 1/2" thin beamed blade does a better job because it is easy to get proper tension, this is a significant part of the reason why the Woodslicer (and its cousins) are such highly regarded resaw blades for cast clones.

As for the saw I wouln't consider trading it in for another 14" cast saw since they are all based on the same pre-WWII Delta design and properly maintained and tuned are all pretty much the same save a variety of features and horsepower. With a little time and effort they can all be excellent saws unless the particular saw has a serious flaw. I would work through tuning the saw and I bet you will be happy. There have been some QC issues with TM blades, particularly with the welds and before trying to tune the saw I would make sure I had a good blade. Further, if you do decide to trade saws I would consider moving to a steel spined saw even if you stay at 14" wheels.

Howard Acheson

08-21-2010, 12:21 PM

The issue with a blade wider than 1/2" on a Delta or Delta clone 14" bandsaw is not just the tension. The blade is too wide to ride on the tire correctly. It leaves the outer edges relatively unsupported with all the tension in the center of the blade. This improper support causes the blade to want to cut in a manner that is not parallel to the fence.

I have seen 3/4" blades used successfully on 14" band saws but the user had removed the crown from the tire and tracked the blade so that the teeth were just barely off the tire. But, why go to that trouble when a 1/2" resaw blade works perfectly?

Matt Logana

08-21-2010, 9:47 PM

Count me as one of the (few) people that does not buy the TM low tension hype, I just have issues with anything that is counter-intuative AND I can't seem to make it work for me. I have just found bands and procedures that work better for ME. I am also one of those people that has never gotten good results with a 3/4" blade on a 14" cast saw, I have found that a 1/2" thin beamed blade does a better job because it is easy to get proper tension, this is a significant part of the reason why the Woodslicer (and its cousins) are such highly regarded resaw blades for cast clones.

As for the saw I wouln't consider trading it in for another 14" cast saw since they are all based on the same pre-WWII Delta design and properly maintained and tuned are all pretty much the same save a variety of features and horsepower. With a little time and effort they can all be excellent saws unless the particular saw has a serious flaw. I would work through tuning the saw and I bet you will be happy. There have been some QC issues with TM blades, particularly with the welds and before trying to tune the saw I would make sure I had a good blade. Further, if you do decide to trade saws I would consider moving to a steel spined saw even if you stay at 14" wheels.

I might have mis-spoke. I didnt realize what I typed till I just read it :(. When I went there, they were out of the cheap Olsen regular blades. So I had to get the more expensive blade. But after driving 30 miles to get the stinkin blade I decided it was better to get a more expensive 3/4 than a cheap Lowes 1/2in.

If I get a new one, I will probably get the Grizzly 17".... Its like $750.. but I could probably get a decent amount out of my current one, since Reliants are currently going in my state, for about $450... and my Delta is probably a better saw, since it hasnt died out yet...

Worst comes to worse I get the $500 Craftsman...not..

Myk Rian

08-21-2010, 9:57 PM

You need a 1/2" blade, max. Nuff said.
I have had great luck with a 1/2" TW blade, on both my Delta 14" saws.
Surprisingly, I ordered a 1/2" Supercut from HF for under $5. It was a great blade also. Too bad HF no longer carries the 105" blades.
http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/products.html

Erik Christensen

08-22-2010, 10:38 AM

if you decide to get a larger saw (good idea) so you can run a 3/4" blade and re-saw thicker stuff do not sell your 14" saw! If you have room to keep both that is the best setup - I kick myself weekly for selling mine when I upgraded. Changing a blade on a bandsaw is a much bigger PITA that on a table saw and even on the table saw many leave a combo blade on all the time.

You want your 14" with a 1/4" fine blade for small stuff, pattern work, sharp curves, etc and a 3/4" in your 18+" for re-saw, ripping 4x, etc. I am now keeping an eye on local CL ads for a 14" to replace the saw I should not have sold in the first place.

Matt Logana

08-22-2010, 1:35 PM