Router extension setup options??

[Andy Maldoror]

I'm in a small shop, a lutherie, and i'm looking into putting a router extension on my 50's unisaw. I need to figure out which extension, which router plate, lift and/or motor to use. i have no experience with table mounted routers.

What are the differences b/t the Peachtree and the Bench dog extensions? how do they compare in quality?

I've got this vintage Rockwell Speedmatic 537 router. i think it's around 1 1/2 hp. is this small for inverted use? i'll be building instruments, routing picture frame moulding and doing some small cabinets. also i'm not sure if PC still makes these or what it's equivalent is. it's about 3 1/2" diameter...is that a standard size for a lift?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Pa28weKWOtg/TG7-bKiXIPI/AAAAAAAAAI0/AbM78r5PxKw/s800/537.jpg

if a larger motor would be better...what should i look for? a motor/lift combo? or i've seen mentioned a triton router that has lift capabilities built-in...any advice on these?

thanks for the help,
andy

[Van Huskey]

I would consider building my own extension and fence.

I would use a lift and motor.

For the motor I prefer the Porter Cable 7518, it has been THE router motor for a long time, which is the reason all the serious lifts are built to fit it first, then adapted to other motors. I am a fan of the Woodpecker PRL 2 BUT you can get the Asian import version of the Jessem Master lift on clearance now for 1/2 price.

[Terry Welty]

Or... you could pay $269 for a Triton 3 1/4 HP router with built in above table crank system, auto lock and plenty of smooth power and you won't need the lift... I like the Incra aluminum router plate with the magnet inserts...

[John Coloccia]

Andy, I build guitars too. What were you thinking of using the router table for? I find it's great for cleaning up pattern work like bodies and headstocks. Also, I've been using it to taper my fretboards. I find that it's maybe not so good for doing things like truss rod slots. 1 1/2HP is marginal for trimming thicker body blanks, in my opinion. For example, I have one blank that measures 1.75". That's a lot of wood to cut through.

I have the 3 1/4HP Triton in my table and couldn't be happier. All I did was laminate a piece of phenolic ply to MDF, routed for a router plate insert, bolt the Triton to the insert and drop it in the hole. That replaced the extension table on my saw. I will warn, though, that it's starting to sag. I need to add some legs to support it. The Triton is heavy.

It's very useful but it's in a different league of power than what you're using now. The first time I used it I was a little surprised by the ridiculous amount of power in that tiny little package. You'll definitely want to be firing on all cylinders when using it. Stupid things like accidentally climb cutting when starting the cut will splinter the work piece and send it flying across the room in a spectacular fashion.

Anyhow, this is just my opinion and my experience. There are so many fine ways to make a router table happen that it's really just up to you to soak it all in and pick the way you like best, and nearly anyway of doing it will make you happy and get it done. Even bolting that old router of yours upside in a table would probably work fine, though it'd clearly not be the nicest solution by a mile.

[Jason White]

That old router is much too beautiful to sit underneath a table! ;)

I had a Benchdog RT on my saw and loved it. Best quality I've seen with those type of units.

Jason


I'm in a small shop, a lutherie, and i'm looking into putting a router extension on my 50's unisaw. I need to figure out which extension, which router plate, lift and/or motor to use. i have no experience with table mounted routers.

What are the differences b/t the Peachtree and the Bench dog extensions? how do they compare in quality?

I've got this vintage Rockwell Speedmatic 537 router. i think it's around 1 1/2 hp. is this small for inverted use? i'll be building instruments, routing picture frame moulding and doing some small cabinets. also i'm not sure if PC still makes these or what it's equivalent is. it's about 3 1/2" diameter...is that a standard size for a lift?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Pa28weKWOtg/TG7-bKiXIPI/AAAAAAAAAI0/AbM78r5PxKw/s800/537.jpg

if a larger motor would be better...what should i look for? a motor/lift combo? or i've seen mentioned a triton router that has lift capabilities built-in...any advice on these?

thanks for the help,
andy

[Andy Maldoror]

i think i may take van husky's advice...i'm looking at getting the peachtree cast iron extension, the PRL V2 and a 7518. big expenses, but i think i'll be using it a good bit. i own a picture frame shop and want to start offering more handcrafted moldings..rather than the fake asian factory stuff our suppliers are pushing. also going to be making guitars, fiddles, small cabinets etc.

anybody got any tips on where to get the best deals?
woodpecker has some scratch and dent, but i want the incra version.
what about the router motor...is there any place that has a good price on these or that does coupon codes?

[Don Jarvie]

You may want to consider a shaper also. It may be more useful when making custom frames since you may have more selection in the cutter area.

When it is all said and done a good shaper may cost just as much as the router set up.

Not recommending it over the router set up since I have the PC 7518 and Liftmaster life, but its worth looking into depending on your needs.

[Curt Harms]

If I were thinking of picture frame stock, I'm not sure a router table would be up to the task. At minimum, I'd get a small stock feeder to use with the router table. If you stop and reset your pushing mechanism or grip while feeding stock, you risk an imperfection. I see it often enough. I can usually run it past the cutter a second time and then sand to get rid of the problem but that'd get old quick in any sort of production situation. A stock feeder would be more likely to provide uniform hold down pressure and speed. I'd look at a shaper and stock feeder if I expected to do much. I don't know what good quality picture frame stock sells for but i bet it ain't cheap. I don't know if the linked machine would be adequate or not. The baby feeders don't get very good reviews except on router tables with smaller light stock.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Shaper-Polar-Bear-Series/G1035P. Not cheap but neither is a 3+ h.p. router plus lift plus stock feeder. And I'm pretty sure the shaper would yield a better quality product due to the larger diameter cutters.


You may want to consider a shaper also. It may be more useful when making custom frames since you may have more selection in the cutter area.

When it is all said and done a good shaper may cost just as much as the router set up.

Not recommending it over the router set up since I have the PC 7518 and Liftmaster life, but its worth looking into depending on your needs.

[Andy Maldoror]

i won't be running much stock...this would be for occasional custom frames. just want to have some options available for the rare customers we get who are interested in more quality. i've sold probably only around 10 frames i did in salvaged heart pine using hand tools. so i the router will be fine.
really it will be for instrument making, with other capabilities.

anyone know if incra ever does coupon codes?
or a place to get the 7518 motor?

[Jerome Hanby]

What are the differences b/t the Peachtree and the Bench dog extensions? how do they compare in quality?



I haven't laid hands on either extension (and I'm assuming we're talking cast iron extensions). But when I was researching, Peachtree had the only extension that had an opening that was the correct size for the Digital Smart Lift I was was considering. The other big difference was when I talked to Peachtree, they informed me that their shipping charges were based on the price of the item, not the weight (I was asking about driving to Atlanta to pick it up because I thought shipping would be a fortune). So shipping would be cheaper than the cost of me driving from Birmingham to Atlanta to pick it up!

[Andy Maldoror]

advice on where to buy?

[Andy Maldoror]

i just ordered the table from peachtree. i added it to an order of 50ft of 4" pvc hose. the shipping for that huge box of hose was only around $12.
i didn't get the shipping price for the table, but when i inquired a few months ago i think they said around 18 or so. very good shipping prices from peachtree for big stuff.

edit: actually shipping the cast iron table was the same standard shipping price as everything...around $12.

[Andy Maldoror]

$266 for the PC 7518 motor only shipped from tools-plus.
does this sound like a good price? anyone ordered from there?
any other routes i should pursue for a router motor?

[Chip Lindley]

$266 for the PC 7518 motor only shipped from tools-plus.
does this sound like a good price? anyone ordered from there?
any other routes i should pursue for a router motor?

Umm... a quick Google search online finds $199.99 + $12.75 shipping at Rockler. They are certainly a reputable ww'ing supplier!

EDIT:
BUT, clicking the link, finds NO 7518 motor offered at Rockler. Only a router with base for $349.99.

Inadvertent mistake? OR Internet Bait & Switch? ...Hmm...

[Andy Maldoror]

just wondering if there was something buried on the web that wasn't showing up on google. i think i'll go with tools-plus.

does incra ever do discounts?

[Andy Maldoror]

i just got my PRL-V2 router lift and the peachtree router extension.
the router cutout in the extension is too shallow at one corner. the router plate protrudes .015 and the set screw threads on that side also are off...when the screw is enters the table threads it pushed the lift up, etc.

is this an acceptable tolerance?
do i try sanding this down to fit or do i send it back?

[John Coloccia]

i just got my PRL-V2 router lift and the peachtree router extension.
the router cutout in the extension is too shallow at one corner. the router plate protrudes .015 and the set screw threads on that side also are off...when the screw is enters the table threads it pushed the lift up, etc.

is this an acceptable tolerance?
do i try sanding this down to fit or do i send it back?

The router plate should not protrude over the extension. There will always be a lip there that fights you. Just make sure it's the extension and not the lift, but I'd probably send it back. It should be just below the surface and then you can shim it to be perfect. It sounds like something got out of square on yours.

[glenn bradley]

Maybe things have changed but, I thought the radius on the PRL plate was larger than the radius on the Peachtree plate cutout? Does Peachtree state that the PRL fits this extension table?

[Andy Maldoror]

it's the depth i'm speaking of. plate fits into the cutout fine..just sticks up .015.