Ever tried "plumber's fabric?"

[Al Stewart]

I am trying to cut small pieces of 1/8" or 3/16" clear acrylic with my 40W ULS with honeycomb table and air assist.

I would love to be able to cut without masking to save the time of removing it from the small pieces. I saw in the hardware store what I call "plumbers fabric" which is used to shield combustibles from the plumber's torch flame. It looks like a fly screen made of metal yarn.

Has anyone used it between the acrylic and the vector table? Do you think it would help avoid underside flames or reflections?

Thanks!

Al

[Mike Null]

I've never tried it but my guess is more reflection, not less.

[Lee DeRaud]

The word "asbestos" keeps jumping into my head for some reason, must be my age. :eek:

[Keith Outten]

In the old days they used to use asbestos cloth.
Then they changed to a product cloth called Refasill. (sp)
Sounds like there is something new on the market these days.
.

[paul mott]

I did try the circular, fine mesh thingy used on frying pans to stop the fat splashes (when you don't want to use a lid).

Results were better than honeycomb but still not good.

A pin table was better but that also produced reflections from its surface.

As I don't get any reflections at all off glass my homebuilt grid is currently producing the best results but I am still looking to make improvements.

Paul.

http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/files/27_files/image734.jpg

[Ross Moshinsky]

Make a pin table. Lay down a piece of MDF or Plexiglas and mark holes every .5". Then go to McMaster and pick a pin to use. I used 98381A478 from McMaster Carr. Also buy this bit 27465A81 if you don't have a 1/8" plastic bit. Then drill all the holes you need in your drill press.

It shouldn't cost more than $30 and 3 hours to build. If you save the pin table layout as a template you can place it under anything you plan to cut out and find exactly where you want to put the pins. Also remember sometimes the exhaust will shift the material around if it is very light. This happened to me while messing around with some test pieces. Taping for extra security is never a bad idea.

[Lee DeRaud]

Make a pin table. Lay down a piece of MDF or Plexiglas and mark holes every .5". Then go to McMaster and pick a pin to use. I used 98381A478 from McMaster Carr. Also buy this bit 27465A81 if you don't have a 1/8" plastic bit. Then drill all the holes you need in your drill press.I've read that paragraph four times, and obviously I'm missing something...
Is there any particular reason not to cut those holes with the laser?

[Ross Moshinsky]

You could try it, but I used 3/8" Plexiglas. It would have taken a bit of time to cut out on the laser and I actually needed to do production work on the laser that day. I did it on my rotary engraver table with a 1/8" endmill bit, but you could try with the laser. I just know it will come out right with a drill press. The laser I could imagine not cutting a perfect hole at a small diameter and it not being true all the way through the material.

[Lee DeRaud]

You could try it, but I used 3/8" Plexiglas. It would have taken a bit of time to cut out on the laser and I actually needed to do production work on the laser that day. I did it on my rotary engraver table with a 1/8" endmill bit, but you could try with the laser. I just know it will come out right with a drill press. The laser I could imagine not cutting a perfect hole at a small diameter and it not being true all the way through the material.Ah. Mine won't cut more than 1/4", but what I had in mind was multiple layers, with the bottom layer solid so the pins can't slide all the way through. I've done this for other applications (e.g. cribbage boards) and the holes are just fine at 1/8" diameter, plus with the laser I can tune the hole diameter for the exact fit I want.