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View Full Version : Grooves in Radial Arm saw table



Jack Burgess
08-19-2010, 12:19 AM
In the process of setting up RAS I have several grooves in the table caused by alignment changes. Now wood is not cutting clean and leaving ends and breaking off some wood on backside. Any simple solution short of changing out table and fence. Comments welcomed

Bob Vallaster
08-19-2010, 12:31 AM
Bondo is your friend. Crude, but effective. Replenish as necessary.

BobV

Van Huskey
08-19-2010, 1:55 AM
Long term solution:

Pull the table (or replace it with a fresh one) then cut dovetails (like a sliding dovetail) in the table at 90 and both 45s then make inserts to slide into the dovetails from some hardwood, when it gets worn just make a new insert.

Will Overton
08-19-2010, 6:49 AM
Cover the table with a piece of Masonite. It's cheap, easy to replace and makes a nice work surface. The other advantage, since you don't put any behind the fence, is that you can remove/change the blade without raising it. Just slide the motor all the way back and the blade is no longer locked in the groove. Sears used to (maybe they still do) sell one with common angles and rip measurements on it. They also marked the best places to brads through it, where the blade was least likely to hit them.

Myk Rian
08-19-2010, 7:52 AM
Cover the table with a piece of Masonite. It's cheap, easy to replace and makes a nice work surface.
This is the best thing to do. A sacrificial top that can be replaced.
For reasons unknown, some people will not use a Sac. top, then complain about having to raise the saw head to change angle.

Jack Burgess
08-19-2010, 8:33 PM
thanks van but for a guy that has not learned how to make a box yet your solution is a great one and I will try ----- some day Ha !

Jack Burgess
08-19-2010, 8:39 PM
Will, how thick should I make it to work the best. Also do I need to change the fence? thanks for the help

Bart Leetch
08-19-2010, 9:09 PM
1/2" or 5/8" will work fine & yes I would replace the fence & then you'll have a nice zero clearance fence.make it at least 1 1/2" to 2" above the work surface.

Will Overton
08-19-2010, 9:14 PM
1/4" or what passes for 1/4" today is all you need. We're talking about covering the existing table, not replacing it. The groove you cut should not be very deep. The fence is unaffected. However, I do change my fence from time to time. A fresh cut, through a new fence board, makes it easy to line up your board with exactly where the blade will cut.

Robert Malone
08-20-2010, 8:02 AM
Jack, I covered my table with 1/4" plywood and raised the blade.
Fastened the ply with 4 well placed screws and a few brads and
marked their locations with a RED dot (circle around the screws).
When the groove got sloppy, i flipped it over (end-for-end) and
used the other side.

Lee Schierer
08-20-2010, 12:17 PM
To cut cleanly without kickback a radial arm saw needs to cut into the table about 1/8". Ordinarily this kerf stays quite small and acts as a zero clearance insert to prevent tear out. Unfortunately Radial Arm saws tend to flex slightly (except the old iron ones) or don't lock back in exactly the same location and the groove gradually gets bigger. When the groove gets too sloppy it is time to replace the table top. Many manufacturers used to sell replacement table tops, but you can make one as easily as buying one.

If you make a sacrificial top make it thick enough for the blade to cut into it at least 1/8" and make sure you don't have fasteners anywhere the blade might go during a cut.

Van Huskey
08-20-2010, 12:21 PM
Just an FYI if your RAS is a Craftsman and if it is on the recall list they will send you a new guard and a new table, in this case you could start with a fresh table and go from there.

radialarmsawrecall.com

Jack Burgess
08-21-2010, 12:34 AM
Van, thanks for the info cannot find out anything about the recall. My RAS was purchased just one month ago - when was the recall - thanks

Van Huskey
08-21-2010, 1:58 AM
Van, thanks for the info cannot find out anything about the recall. My RAS was purchased just one month ago - when was the recall - thanks


The recall has been going on for years. Did you look at the site I listed ( radialarmsawrecall.com ) it should tell you everything you need to know. If your saw is a Craftsman it will tell you hjow to determine if it is under recall and offer you either a new table and guard or $100 to send the "head" back to them.

Will Overton
08-21-2010, 7:54 AM
Van, thanks for the info cannot find out anything about the recall. My RAS was purchased just one month ago - when was the recall - thanks


If your saw was purchased new, a month ago, you are good to go. The recall was for saws that did not have the lower portion of the blade guard, dating all the way back to the '50's.


Emerson Tool Co. (ETC) is providing a repair kit for a new blade guard or $100 to owners of certain Craftsman® 8", 8¼", 9", and 10" Radial Arm Saws. Sears sold the 8, 9, and 10-inch saws from 1958 through 1992. The 8¼" saws were sold from 1990 through 1995. Is my saw part of this recall? (http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/determinemodels.asp) "

Mike Harrison
08-21-2010, 8:09 AM
Yep, a masonite replaceable table is the answer. its simple to replace when necessary.

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/WW%20tools/RAS%20Miter%20bench/shophousepics055.jpg

Replacing the fence in order to know where the cut is, is a nice idea, but the first time you use a Dado, its all for naught. Personally I just sneak up on the line.

Will Overton
08-21-2010, 10:21 AM
I don't remember who suggested it to me (it was back in the '80's), it could have been that guy on TV, but I always used a second fence for dadoes. I assumed that's what everybody did. I should know better than to assume. :o