Bedrock Question

[Mark Stutz]

Jay recently showed us PICS of his refurbished planes. I have also been looking around for a #7 or #8. Jay, I'm glad I didn't try to bid on that ! :D My question--is the extra price of a bedrock series plane worth it? and is it worth trying to tune up a later series one? ....say, a type 16 or higher?...that is a #7 or #8, not a #607 or 608.

Mark, I know you will suggest an ECE jointer, but I'm just gunshy about wooden planes for the most part. Guess I should get over it, huh? :D ;)

[Tom LaRussa]

My question--is the extra price of a bedrock series plane worth it?
JMHO, but NO.

Unless you really need to be able to adjust the froggie without stripping the thing down first.




and is it worth trying to tune up a later series one? ....say, a type 16 or higher?
Absolutely!

Anything up through type 19 is fine, so far as I know. In fact, I've got an English-produced #4 that might be a type 20; I can't really be sure, but it's a great plane and I paid less than $25 for it, including shipping.

[Corvin Alstot]

Are the worth the difference?

They perform a little better, but you can get great performance from a standard Stanley plane, especially if you tune it up and get and aftermarket blade.

But for a cool factor its hard to beat a Bedrock. its kind of like the difference between a Corvette and a Porsche, each one will get you there but one has a little more style.

In the stanley's I would try to avoid the later models. I think they are harder to tune up and usually the bottoms are warped. Plus the early models are vary plentiful, have nice rosewood handles and really do not cost anymore. Why get a badly made new plane when you can get a plane thats a 100 years old, works better, and looks a whole lot better?

IMHO

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks, guys.

Corvin,
When you say earlier models, how early? I'm assuming...say...Type 8 thru 12?
You know, depending on the "TYPE" of Corvette, some of tham can be pretty cool :D ;) . Unfortunately, I'm sometimes a sucker for cool :cool:


Tom,
I think I have that same English made Stanley #4! I'm not sure I will ever be able to get the sole flat. :(


Another question to throw out...how do you feel about corrugated bottoms? Are they really easier to use? Somehow, I prefer the aesthetics of a smooth bottom plane.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Another question to throw out...how do you feel about corrugated bottoms? Are they really easier to use? Somehow, I prefer the aesthetics of a smooth bottom plane.

Mark,
I have a corrugated bottom Sargent #7 jointer, I think the two benefits are the reduced weight and less contact area with the work piece. Both characteristics contribute towards requiring lesser effort to work the tool, specially in bigger planes the difference is noticeable. Also if you have to flatten the sole there is much less surface to grind/sand on a corrugated plane.
Just my 2c.

[Dave Anderson NH]

I like Bedrocks, but having said that don't own a single one except my LN copy of the 4 1/2. For a jointer plane like a #7 or #8 I really don't think it is necessary since most folks rarely move the frog once they have it set up the way they want it. While corrugations can be useful for shorter smoothers because of the decresed surface area on the sole-- they're easier to lap flat, they really are a disadvantage for a jointer. Because you will often edge joint boards, you might have trouble balancing the plane on the reduced surface area. You might want to take a close look at sole corrugationws and then compare them to the 3/4" width of the most commonly jointed board.

[David Tiell]

Are the worth the difference?

its kind of like the difference between a Corvette and a Porsche, each one will get you there but one has a little more style.


IMHOOf course, you're talking about the Corvette having the style, right???:D

My only Bedrock is a #605, not sure what type, but it has the flat sides. It's definitely just a user model. IMHO, no real preference over my #5C when both are tuned up nicely. That fact alone made me glad I didn't pay much more for it that the #5C. I would go with the #7 or #8 jointer and use the money you save to buy another tool.

[Corvin Alstot]

[David Tiell]
Of course, you're talking about the Corvette having the style, right???:D


Actually, I was not specific because they have changed so much in the last 50 years. That being said I prefer the late 50's and very early 60's style Corvettes. But I think the current models of Porsches are very nice too.

[Tyler Howell]

Hey Mark,
Bedrock bragging rights is great but adjusting the frog is not the only feature.
Bedrock also refers to the heavy solid machined (Bedrock) surface the frog is seated on for no chatter rock solid performance. Clearly the Best planes are being made today LN ,Clifton, LV.......
Haven't got enough miles on them to judge but my new/old 605c sure does a nice job at a reasonable price. and that brush with history has been a lot of fun too.
I have a solid # 7 and that is lot of iron to hog off when lapping. I haven't had any trouble pushing it across a board but then I just get my horizontally gifted stature in motion and there's no stopping us:rolleyes: .

[Steve Cox]

With one exception all my bench planes are Baileys, circa 1910-1950? Some are corrugated and some are smooth. I really can't see any practical difference either between the older and newer or between the corrugated or smooth. While I understand the cachet that LN or a Bedrock have I don't see the need for them except in some specific cases. I would like to get a premium smoother to do final finishing so I don't have to sand. I have a LN 62 (LA Jack) which helps in this area. If you are planing highly figured wood something like the 62 is helpful but this is also where scrapers come in. If you are planing "regular" wood (cherry, oak, beech, maple, etc) I don't think you will see much difference by springing for the more expensive planes. I'm assuming that all your planes are tuned up and (for myself) blades have been replaced with Hocks.

[Roy Wall]

I thought the old 600 series bedrocks were dated type 1 thru 12......

with the best improvements & features from around type 7 up to the 12. This being said, are the old bedrocks that much better than regular stanley......?? I don't think so. A good Hock blade and quality "setup" will equalize the playing field.

My attempts to buy old bedrocks stopped when I found prices around 2/3rds of the LNs..........plus I'd have to buy the LN or Hock blade.......so I was willing to part with the extra cash and just get the LN's.

[Corvin Alstot]

Corvin,
When you say earlier models, how early? I'm assuming...say...Type 8 thru 12?
Another question to throw out...how do you feel about corrugated bottoms? Are they really easier to use? Somehow, I prefer the aesthetics of a smooth bottom plane.
Mark / I prefer the type 11 and 12's but even up to the Type 17 are preferred by some for their weight. I find that I perfer the rosewood knobs and totes so I think they ended around the type 15. I also do not prefer the ribs cast into the Type 16's. I think that Garrett Hack is a big fan of the type 2's.


None of this as anything to do with performance. To me the most important thing is;a thick sharp blade,and a flat sole (at least flat in the front, back, and most importantly right in front of the blade). The entire bottom does not need to be completely flat.

I think all the old Stanley's need more tuneing compared to the newer LV or LN. But it is a simple process and once you learn to do one you realize there is not much to it.