kitchen cabinet question

[Brett Nelson]

Alright, this is for you kitchen cabinet guys out there.

I realize it is only indirectly woodworking related, but...

I have to build a cherry canopy to house a range hood insert. I'd like to finish designing the canopy, but haven't yet found the insert. PLEASE offer some guidance on the best brands and setups for range hood inserts. It'll be wall mount, and maybe around 600-900 CFM. 36 or 48" and I need it to be as quiet as possible, which likely means the blower will be mounted in the attic or something.

Also, while we're at it, please link to any amazing looking range canopies that you've seen. I'm still looking for ideas. :D

Thanks

[Chris Padilla]

I'm currently installing a Zephyr, Typhoon series in our kitchen. It is not an insert, however, but we were suitably impressed with the 800 CFM and how quiet it was (I forget the sones rating).

It looks nice but has been a real PITA to install because the mouting holes are partially covered by the guts of the system. Some lunkhead at Zephyr needs some bad stuff done to them. BUT, I got 'er and it looks good and works well.

[zayd alle]

Brett,

I toyed with the idea of building one to match our maple cabinets, but ultimately installed a stainless "chimney" hood instead. But when I researched inserts, Fantech always seemed to be at the top of people's lists.

I did end up using a Fantech inline exhaust fan (mounted in the attic to distance the noise) and it has been great.

[Bill White]

I've had Broan and Vent-A-Hood brands, and the Vent-A-Hood is more quiet. You can buy just the insert.
Bill

[Thom Porterfield]

Brett:

I installed a Fantech range hood liner and attic-mounted in-duct exhaust fan. I am ecstatic about the performance. Even at highest speed, conversation in low tones is possible right in front of the range. It is powerful enough to destroy the draft in my fireplace! something I didn't anticipate. I highly recommend it.

Here is the link to the hood liner: http://residential.fantech.net/residential-products/accessories/range-hood-liners/

And here is the link to the fan/duct: http://residential.fantech.net/residential-products/kitchen/inline-exhaust-fans/

I installed natural maple cabinets and made a custom surround to match over the hood liner and duct.

[Ben Franz]

I did a few of these for client kitchens and I'm familiar with Vent-a-Hood and Thermador products. I think both companies make inserts and offer remote blowers. I put a Thermador exposed hood with a roof mounted blower in my own kitchen and I liked how easy it went in. The roof mount makes the blower accessible for service - more so than an in-line attic unit. The remote option does make things quiet but maybe not to the extent you might anticipate. My unit was 1200 CFM IIRC and moving that much air makes noise. It was worth it to me to have the performance of a high capacity hood. Probably any reputable supplier would provide a decent product - maybe the appliance store can give you local references for whatever hood you select and you could check it out in person. Good luck.

[Karl Brogger]

Just as a note, newer houses around here are required to have a separate fan to bring air into the house when installing a vent of 600cfm or more.

FYI

[Brett Nelson]

thanks for the suggestions guys. There are always knowledgeable ppl on the creek. :D

I looked into Fantech and I think that might be the way I go. Now if I could just figure out a design. I'm trying to fit a wall pullout on either side of the range. One for a spice rack and the other with a stainless pegboard for cooking utensils.

[Brett Nelson]

Just as a note, newer houses around here are required to have a separate fan to bring air into the house when installing a vent of 600cfm or more.

FYI

Hmmm.. I've never heard that one around here. I'll look into it.

[Jamie Buxton]

Hmmm.. I've never heard that one around here. I'll look into it.

Newer houses may need the fan because they are being built to have less air leakage than older houses. If you have an older house, the fan probably isn't necessary. Or you could just remember to crack a window when you have the hood going full blast.

[Thom Porterfield]

Brett:

Here is my installation.
Overall view . . . . . . . . . . closeup of duct enclosure . . . . . . . view from underneath . . . . and how it went together

[Brett Nelson]

Brett:

Here is my installation.
Overall view . . . . . . . . . . closeup of duct enclosure . . . . . . . view from underneath . . . . and how it went together


Great looking craftsmanship.. Neat concept on the floating cantilevered design too.

[Karl Brogger]

Newer houses may need the fan because they are being built to have less air leakage than older houses. If you have an older house, the fan probably isn't necessary. Or you could just remember to crack a window when you have the hood going full blast.

Exactly. You're potentially pulling moisture in through the walls.

[Ben Franz]

Actually, the problem with high capacity hoods is a need for "make-up air" to prevent back drafting of combustion gas at other appliances like furnaces, water heaters, etc. The combination of a high CFM exhaust hood and a tight house can draw air down gas flues and cause potentially fatal CO levels in the house. I seem to remember another thread where someone brought up this issue with bathroom vent fans as well. Mechanical codes have not addressed these issues completely but perhaps are changing slowly. Many code enforcement authorities have required a separate fresh air intake near forced air furnaces but I don't think that is required at water heaters yet. My knowledge is incomplete and anecdotal - someone with real expertise might be able to contribute better info.

[Thom Porterfield]

You're spot on, Ben. I think I mentioned above that my Fantech is powerful to defeat the draw on my fireplace, despite the outside air inlet therein. Fortunately, the only gas appliance other than the range (which has no flue) is the on-demand water boiler, and its outside air and vent are both ducted outside.

It only takes a couple of instances of filling the house with wood smoke from the fireplace to coordinate fire building and kitchen venting!

More and more, with rising energy costs, houses are becoming tighter and tighter. Mine is an example--every exterior opening gasketed; walls, ceiling and floors sealed with poly vapor barriers. In fact, I ventillate with an air-to-air heat exchanger, but that is merely an exchange. It is insufficient to replace the air sucked out by the vent fan. If it weren't for the air inlet in the fireplace, we well could have a serious negative air situation by running the fan. Fortunately, SWMBO loves fresh air--even in January!--and often leaves a window or two open. (There goes all that dearly-paid-for efficiency!)

It would be a simple task to provide make-up air as part of the cabinetry and possibly incorporate it with the hood, if the range is located at or near an exterior wall. Or it could be routed through the attic or under-floor crawl. You would want to provide a back-draft damper on it, though, or pay the penalty of a constant draft.