Handle for socket chisels

[Harlan Barnhart]

I bought some socket gouges on ebay with no handles. Where should I look for handles. I'm not picky about the specie, it would be nice if they matched.

Peace,
Harlan

[Roy Lindberry]

I bought some socket gouges on ebay with no handles. Where should I look for handles. I'm not picky about the specie, it would be nice if they matched.

Peace,
Harlan


If you have access to a lathe, they are pretty straightforward to make. And as a bonus, not only can you make them match, but you can customize them to your hand.

[James Taglienti]

some companies sell handles for socket chisels but they're pretty ugly. There are NOS old ones available, too, but they can be expensive. I have a box of about 50 mixed chisel handles that i dip into now and then- none of them match, maybe a few pairs...

I made some handles for a few, but none of those match either. hmm...

[Frank Drew]

As Roy says, if you either have a lathe or access to one, and you're comfortable turning, you could knock out handles all day long.

Myself, I actually don't like matching handles; they look smart all lined up like individual soldiers, but laying on your bench in a bunch of sawdust and shavings, different handles help you identify different tools.

[Harlan Barnhart]

I have neither a lathe nor access to one so I am looking to buy. I have seen a set or so on ebay a while back but none lately. I was hoping someone knew of a better source. Looks are not that important I guess, just a solid usable, whackable handle.

[Zach England]

Lie-Nielsen sells them, but you could probably buy a small lathe and a couple serviceable turning tools for what they would cost. I have them on my LN chisels and personally I think they are a bit too small, but they are made of really nice hornbeam and are finished nicely.


But you can't beat those LN chisels...at least not with anything I have ever used.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Here are some from traditionalwoodworker.com, but they're kinda pricey.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Heavy-Duty-Medium-Socket-Chisel-Replacement-Handle/productinfo/227%2DH161/

I've been accumulating un-handled socket chisels too, and have been looking for replacements too. I'm thinking maybe if I made someone over in the turning forum a dovetail saw . . . .

[Steve LaFara]

Why not go over to the turning forum and see if someone would be willing to make you some. Send them some wood and a six pack and you never know........ If I had a way to make them all reasonably the same size and shape on my little Sherline lathe............. yea never mind. It would take me 'tll Christmas to get a set done. I haven't even done my own yet.

Anyway, I'm sure there are a few guys over there that would be willing to help.

[Jim Koepke]

Here are some from traditionalwoodworker.com, but they're kinda pricey.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Heavy-Duty-Medium-Socket-Chisel-Replacement-Handle/productinfo/227%2DH161/

I've been accumulating un-handled socket chisels too, and have been looking for replacements too. I'm thinking maybe if I made someone over in the turning forum a dovetail saw . . . .


I have made handles for my chisels and sold off about 2 dozen spares about a year ago.

It is hard to make handles to fit without having the chisel to fit it to unless you want to do a lot of hand work.

Any pictures of your dovetail saws? I could be interested depending on how many handles you need.

jim

[George Clark]

Lie-Nielsen's standard hornbeam chisel handles are $12.50 and the long handles are $22.50. However, don't assume they will fit your non L-N chisels. They might but then again they might not. I ordered some intending to use them in some Stanley 750's, NOT. I believe all L-N sockets are the same size. Stanley 750 and 720 chisel sockets increase in size as the chisel size increases, at least the ones I own do. I would suspect that each brand might have its own unique socket size.

George

[Jim Koepke]

Lie-Nielsen's standard hornbeam chisel handles are $12.50 and the long handles are $22.50.

Dang, a guy could make a good living with a lathe and a little time with prices like that.

jim

[Jonathan McCullough]

Here's a link (http://hyperkitten.com/tools/hwpeace/saws/backsaws/new_backsaw.php) on hyperkitten showing the design I plan to make. I'm pretty far along a giant slab of some nice ipe for the handle, but if it meant chisel handles I could get to ordering some 1095 from McMaster. Maybe I'll make a few while I'm at it and make it a posting here.

[Steve Branam]

For those without a lathe, is it practical to make handles just by rounding out a length of square stock with planes, rasps, chisels, and spokeshaves? Plane off the corners to make it octagonal, then plane off those corners (or leave them to prevent rolling off the bench); repeat as necessary to achieve the desired approximation of roundness.

The actual handle part is a no-brainer, very easy, the real question is the tapered fit in the socket. I've never tried it, but I would think a few minutes careful work with the rasp, chisel, and shave would taper the end precisely enough for a good fit. I wouldn't be surprised if even a lathe-turned handle needed this type of fitting work (especially given my level of skill on the lathe :rolleyes:).

A bit crude, perhaps, but simple and effective.

[Zach England]

For those without a lathe, is it practical to make handles just by rounding out a length of square stock with planes, rasps, chisels, and spokeshaves? Plane off the corners to make it octagonal, then plane off those corners (or leave them to prevent rolling off the bench); repeat as necessary to achieve the desired approximation of roundness.

The actual handle part is a no-brainer, very easy, the real question is the tapered fit in the socket. I've never tried it, but I would think a few minutes careful work with the rasp, chisel, and shave would taper the end precisely enough for a good fit. I wouldn't be surprised if even a lathe-turned handle needed this type of fitting work (especially given my level of skill on the lathe :rolleyes:).

A bit crude, perhaps, but simple and effective.

I would start with a couple knocks into a dowel plate using different sized holes at different increments to make reference points, then shape to them.


I've been meaning to make some paring handles for my LN chisels for a while now, but I dread dragging that lathe out and sharpening those screwy turning tools, then getting covered in chips. Wood turning is a bug that has never bitten me.

[Steve Schoene]

I've been meaning to make some paring handles for my LN chisels .


I don't understand paring handles. Sure you don't use a mallet while paring, but the thing that is important in making a paring chisel is that the blade be long so it can lie flat on a surface; having a longer handle doesn't help that happen.

[James Taglienti]

You know, i have a friend with a duplicator lathe, a huge stack of pale hickory, and a lot of leather. I have often thought about going over there and making some handles, but i just don't know how to get the leather on there. How did they make it stick? I understand there's a tenon going through the washers, but how are they on there? did they soak them, or saturate them with glue or something?

[Sean Hughto]

While a tang and not a socket, I made this replacement handle without a lathe:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3543/3457955904_2df9787ce3_z.jpg
It's certainly doable. I made this kind of fast and wasn't too worried about perfect symmetry. I could have been more precise if it was required, and anyone else could too.

[Bill Houghton]

The actual handle part is a no-brainer, very easy, the real question is the tapered fit in the socket. I've never tried it, but I would think a few minutes careful work with the rasp, chisel, and shave would taper the end precisely enough for a good fit. I wouldn't be surprised if even a lathe-turned handle needed this type of fitting work.

Indeed, yes. And not all sockets are symmetrical, so there can be some fussing and fitting, regardless of how good the lathe work is.

There are a number of ways to determine the taper of the socket, which is the first key. Some folks cram aluminum foil into it, then drive in a drywall screw and pull it out. Somewhere - I think it was here - one of the resident senior geniuses described a technique that sounded really cool - I can't recall the details (I'm a senior of another kind altogether). You might do some searches on "taper + socket" or suchlike, or maybe that resident genius will weigh in again.

Once you're close, you push the handle into the socket and push it around some. Take it out and remove the shiny spots. Repeat until you have a fit.

Some people are making handles now that taper smoothly out of the socket; the Traditional Woodworker handle is like that. This can result in handles with kind of small diameters. The traditional handle had roughly the same diameter above the socket as the outer diameter of the socket. If you decide on the traditional handle style, make sure to leave a gap between the top of the socket and the larger diameter of the handle - 1/8" or so. If you don't, as the socket beds in, it will no longer hold well, as the larger diameter will butt up against the socket and prevent proper seating of the taper in the socket.

For a long time, it was considered standard and necessary to put a ferrule at the top of the handle, or leather washers. The ferrule MAY help keep the handle intact if you're doing really heavy work. The leather washers probably make no difference at all, although they look really cool. For bench work with a mallet, just rounding off the end of the handle's probably fine.

[Jim Koepke]

For those without a lathe, is it practical to make handles just by rounding out a length of square stock with planes, rasps, chisels, and spokeshaves? Plane off the corners to make it octagonal, then plane off those corners (or leave them to prevent rolling off the bench); repeat as necessary to achieve the desired approximation of roundness.

The actual handle part is a no-brainer, very easy, the real question is the tapered fit in the socket. I've never tried it, but I would think a few minutes careful work with the rasp, chisel, and shave would taper the end precisely enough for a good fit. I wouldn't be surprised if even a lathe-turned handle needed this type of fitting work (especially given my level of skill on the lathe :rolleyes:).

A bit crude, perhaps, but simple and effective.

Steve,

That is one of the beauties of the socket chisel. You can make the crude handles to your heart's content. All the while trying different grip features or lengths. All you need is a piece of wood and tools to shape it.

The advantage of a lathe is the handle is around an axis that should also center on the axis of the chisel.



I don't understand paring handles. Sure you don't use a mallet while paring, but the thing that is important in making a paring chisel is that the blade be long so it can lie flat on a surface; having a longer handle doesn't help that happen.

In many cases, the pairing is being done while making things like dovetails. No need to have a long ramp on which to guide the chisel.

One advantage of a long chisel and handle is for making small adjustments of the chisel's skew when cutting. The end of a long handle on chisel has to move a more to change the skew by one degree than a short handle. So, in effect, the leverage gives a bit more control.

jim

[Mike Henderson]

I've made a bunch of handles for chisels so let me add my comments.

Like others have said, they're pretty easy to make and you can tailor them to your hand (how you like the handle to feel in your hand), and you can make them out of any wood you like. If it turns out that the wood you chose doesn't hold up well, you can just make a new handle. On my good chisels I've used cocobolo and ebony - not good for hammering on but I don't hit them much.

The problem is the taper - sockets are not all the same. In fact, on really old chisels, they're not even close to each other. That's why it's hard to get someone else to turn the handles for you - you pretty much have to send the chisels to that person so they can fit the taper to the socket.

If you can turn, make your first handles out of some cheap wood - oak or pecan or something like that - because you'll probably not like the way they feel and want to make new ones. Once you figure out the shape and size (I like longer handles) you can make the final ones out of a beautiful wood.

Mike

[David Weaver]

I don't understand paring handles. Sure you don't use a mallet while paring, but the thing that is important in making a paring chisel is that the blade be long so it can lie flat on a surface; having a longer handle doesn't help that happen.

It has more to do with comfort and control. I don't know how often most people use more than a bench chisel's length on a western parer. I guess it depends on what you build.

I do appreciate being able to hold a paring chisel handle (like a japanese paring chisel) and lean into the work while it is still fairly far away from my body.

[George Neill]

You don't need a lathe to make socket chisel handles (though it helps). octagonal planed or shaved handles look stunning and most people find them more comfortable than round ones.

Here's a guide to fitting handle tapers to chisel sockets (http://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2009/11/06/refurbishing-an-old-stanley-socket-chisel/) though using a lathe, it can be done equally well with a rasp and sandpaper.

[Jack Camillo]

Dang, a guy could make a good living with a lathe and a little time with prices like that.

jim

I bet if you started cranking some out for, say, a couple different, most commonly used 750s, and had a stock built up, you could probably make that kind of kaching yourself.

[Paul Chiasson]

I think RyanC over at Woodnet still makes/sells handles. He's got a web site, and his stuff looks good.

[george wilson]

If you make a vertical tool rest to clamp to the table,a drill press can do wood lathe work.

[harry strasil]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=112339&highlight=chisel+handle

[Jonathan McCullough]

I wouldn't do that for the same reason that you shouldn't use a drill press as a milling machine; it's bad for the spindle bearings.

[george wilson]

It isn't really that bad. The forces in milling are vastly greater. I haven't ruined my 1964 Craftsman yet,and I used to use it for a lathe when I was young and poor. Having a tailstock point mounted on the table is what I forgot to mention. It can be mounted in wood clamped to the table.

The worst thing is the crick in the neck from dong it!!

[Steve Branam]

As usual, Harry has an app for that! Cool!

[Jim Koepke]

With a drill press lathe, you could use rasps and sandpaper to do the shaping.

jim

[Derek Cohen]

If you have access to a lathe, I wrote a pictorial on making handles for socket chisels (how to size the tenon, etc) ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[john davey]

I have been collecting old chisels for a while and have several handles to make. This post has helped a lot especially the links to tutorials. I still have one question that doesn't seem to be mentioned. How is the handle finally attached. IS epoxy used or is this supposed to be such a perfect fit that if is just jammed in and holds? Thanks, John

[Derek Cohen]

I have been collecting old chisels for a while and have several handles to make. This post has helped a lot especially the links to tutorials. I still have one question that doesn't seem to be mentioned. How is the handle finally attached. IS epoxy used or is this supposed to be such a perfect fit that if is just jammed in and holds? Thanks, John

Hi John

The advantage of a socket chisel handle is that it is attached without anything more than a friction fit, and then may be replaced when desired, such as to exchange one for another type of handle. For example, LN has both butt and paring handles. This advantage is lost if you epoxy the handle in. You should be able to loosen a handle by tapping it on a bench top (mine are like this).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

I have been collecting old chisels for a while and have several handles to make. This post has helped a lot especially the links to tutorials. I still have one question that doesn't seem to be mentioned. How is the handle finally attached. IS epoxy used or is this supposed to be such a perfect fit that if is just jammed in and holds? Thanks, John
In general, I agree with Derek - handles should be a friction fit. However, I made some handles out of cocobolo for my LN chisels and had problems with getting them to stay in the sockets. One reason is that the LN sockets are "perfect". On old chisels the sockets were manufactured rough, out of round and with metal "splatter" in the socket, and usually have some rust pitting. When you drive a handle into one of those, it stays.

But the LN socket is perfectly smooth inside and symmetrical. I found that my cocobolo handles would come loose occasionally so I epoxied some of them in.

Mike

[George Clark]

I used a bit of epoxy because I got tired of the handles coming out, wood is stabilized maple, chisels are Stanley 720s. I suspect a good solid rap will still remove the handles. FYI each of these chisels has a different size socket.

George

[john davey]

Thanks guys. So I think I will start with friction fit and epoxy only if I am having problems with this. I have a box with about 40 old chisels I have been picking up on craigslist and yard sales and such. Probably have on average less than 3 bucks a chisel invested as only a few went for more than 5 bucks. A couple of nice everlasting #40's. That is the handle I am looking to try to copy first as I love the feel in my hand of that chisel. They all don't need handels but some do so it will be fun to practice on them. I hope to get a good set out of them and then maybe grind some for dovetails and skew chisels. Thanks again, John

[George Clark]

James,

My local leather store recommended Barge Cement, a brand of rubber cement favored by shoemakers and leather workers.

From another forum:

Hints to happy gluing:

1. Have plenty of ventilation. The toluene in Barge will knock you out.

2. Overlap the 2 pieces by at least 1/2 inch for enough surface area to bond well.

3. Wet both pieces with the glue. Put on 2 coats if you don't use contact cement regularly. Let it dry until you can touch it and it isn't sticky.

4. Press it together (if you just set them together, you can get them back apart) and pound the crap out of it. The pounding together really makes it stick.

Good luck. I use Barge by the gallon and it really sticks.


A chairmaker I know uses hot hide glue to glue leather pads to the bottom of his chair legs and has no problems with them coming off.

I would recommend you use vegetable tanned leather. I have had trouble trying to glue oil tanned leather.

George

[harry strasil]

traditionaltools.us/cms/index.php?name=coppermine&file=thumbnails&album=53

[lowell holmes]

You don't need a lathe. :)



http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=102821




I recently renovated an old Montgomery Wards chisel. Having an extra Lie Nielsen handle, I was able to put it in the old chisel. I would not be afraid to fit their handles to an old chisel.

[george wilson]

Harry,I googled your above reference,but can't figure out what you are getting at with the "thermed" legs. Can you explain? Thanks.

Lowell: To those who wish to hand carve round handles; usually you make the item square,then octagonal,then 16 sided,keeping all the sides the same. Finally,you can make the item fully round. This is how hand forged rifle barrels are made at Williamsburg. A round barrel(for fowlers) is a lot more work that an octagonal rifle barrel. They made barrels this way before large,powerful lathes were more commonly available to the country gunsmith.

[Sam Takeuchi]

Just copy and paste the URL Harry provided into URL bar. It's a page with pictorial on chisel handle making.

quick edit: Oh wait, I can just make it clickable. here ( traditionaltools.us/cms/index.php?name=coppermine&file=thumbnails&album=53)

[lowell holmes]

George,
I did that. First I made a square blank. Then I planed it to an octagen, then planed it at 16 sides. I used a small shave to round it off, and then sanded it. It did not take long at all.

I actually did two chisels. Using scraps of wood from the shop, I used qs white oak.

My son was building a deck and needed to true up some half laps. I took him the chisel, and he made one cut across the 2x8 joist, breaking out in an ear to ear smile.
I think I finally interested him in some neander ways.

This link will take you to Bob's article.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=27740

[John Toigo]

It took me a while to get the hang of turning socket chisel handles. Now I use a vernier with a depth gauge to get the length. I turn the socket end down to the OUTSIDE width of the socket, turn the rest of the handle & then turn down the socket. I've had the socket end split on me while I was turning the handle. The ferrules are fun too. They were a bit challenging to make till I got the hang of them. Now I make most of my ferrules out of steel although I also use brass & bronze. Bronze bushings look nice but they are really pricey. I'd be glad to turn up handles if anyone is interested.

[John Toigo]

Nope - I didn;t figure out the pics. You can look here though: http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x286/Fencer257/?start=all

[Jim Koepke]

But the LN socket is perfectly smooth inside and symmetrical. I found that my cocobolo handles would come loose occasionally so I epoxied some of them in.

So there is such a thing as "too perfect"?

jim

[Andrew Gibson]

I'm a little late to this party but I think I would find a local woodworking club ( mine met last night)
I would put money on it that there are at least a few members that would be happy to have you over to there shop and help you turn some handles on there lathe.

I would not be surprised if they went over to a scrap bin and dug out something nicer then what you bring... but you never know.

[Mike Brady]

Jim, here is how I make chisel handles with leather washers on the struck end:
Obtain sole leather from a shoe repair shop.
Laminate two thicknesses of the leather together. The best glue I have found is the Gorilla quicksetting polyurethane that says "dries white" on the bottle. You will also use this to attach the washer to the handle.
Drill a hole in the laminated leather the same size as your round tenon. I usually use 3/8 or 1/2, depending on the size of the handle. When you are turning the tenon, leave it slightly oversized in diameter and length.
Cut out the washer from your leather, oversized. Glue it onto the tenon. I sometimes use a wrench socket to tap the washer down snug. If you have left the tenon oversized, the tight fit eliminates any need for clamping.
When the glue has set, put the handle back in the lathe and trim the handle and washer to the desire shape. Leather turns just like soft wood.
Trim the tenon flush with the washer.
I finish my handles on the lathe, using shellac on a rag. This also burnishes the leather so that it looks like it is a part of the wood handle.
Sorry I can't post pictures here to show you some handles. I guess you have to pay to do that.

[Nicholas Lingg]

I made some a while back before I had a lathe. I made them hexagon and carved the tang. Now that I have a lathe I still didn't change them because they feel nice in my hands when I'm lining up on a mark.

[Trevor Walsh]

I've got some Process of making them HERE (http://twdesignshop.blogspot.com/2010/08/getting-handle-on-it-socket-chisels.html) and there is a new post about a slick I just handled. While I rough turned the socket, I've also done it with a chisel and file. The fitting is pretty much the same. Test to mark the high spots, file them off, whether turned or hand cut the process has to be done to get perfect fits.

Give it a shot!
Good Luck