has anyone built their own "stone pond"?

[Zach England]

I am intrigued by Lee Valley's "stone pond", but it has a couple of shortcomings for me. One is it only holds two stones, when I like to use three in my everyday sharpening and five for serious sharpening. The other is that it has no lid, which will result in my cat drinking the water.

Has anyone made something like this where the stone storage and holders are self-contained? I am thinking a big, shallow rubbermaid-type tote would work, but am not so sure about the holders. Anyone?

[James Taglienti]

I have a waterstone that's in a cheap plastic storage container with a lid. I have to take it out for honing though- I just put the lid on the bench, rightside up, and set the stone on it. The lid has got a lip all the way around it to trap any water or stone gunk. It works alright.

[Randy Briggs]

I am intrigued by Lee Valley's "stone pond", but it has a couple of shortcomings for me. One is it only holds two stones, when I like to use three in my everyday sharpening and five for serious sharpening. The other is that it has no lid, which will result in my cat drinking the water.

Has anyone made something like this where the stone storage and holders are self-contained? I am thinking a big, shallow rubbermaid-type tote would work, but am not so sure about the holders. Anyone?

Technically the LV does have a lid - it is rather flimsy though and then it has the plate glass that goes over the pond too. My experience has been that the stone holders, while gripping the stone fine, wiggle while honing. Bought mine used with some stones, but otherwise it is a glorified Rubbermaid now.

[Don Dorn]

I built the one Frank Klausz uses in his "Hand Tools" DVD. It worked fine, but discovered that they take up allot of room. Now, I use a DMT 1200 for a medium stone and a Norton 8000 for the fine stone. Both only need to be spritzed and it's been working out very well for me.

Like to buy Shaptons, but I just refuse to pay and arm and leg for that flatting plate.

[Stuart Tierney]

Like to buy Shaptons, but I just refuse to pay and arm and leg for that flatting plate.


Who said you need to use the Shapton Flattening plate? If someone actually said to your face "You must use the Shapton flattening plate with Shapton water stones" then don't listen to them any more, because a: they are lying or b: they are trying to sell you something.

They may just be misinformed, but even that level of misinformation is astounding.


Back to the OP, there do exist special holders that will span a plastic box or sink. They use a telescopic type base, and are more of a rest than anything else. Not terribly expensive, but I have always questioned their utility.

If you are interested, I could dig up some more information for you.

Stu.

[David Weaver]

I built the one Frank Klausz uses in his "Hand Tools" DVD. It worked fine, but discovered that they take up allot of room. Now, I use a DMT 1200 for a medium stone and a Norton 8000 for the fine stone. Both only need to be spritzed and it's been working out very well for me.

Like to buy Shaptons, but I just refuse to pay and arm and leg for that flatting plate.

A DMT 325 would work fine (one you could find on amazon or peebay for $60 or so). An atoma even better because there's a lot of room between the diamonds. Both lots cheaper than the shapton plate, and plenty flat (and if they are not, warranty service will make them plenty flat for the job).

Rather than replacing all of the stones, I think you'd get more mileage out of adding a 1 micron shapton stone (a pro stone, not a glasstone) to follow the norton 8k.

I often use a 1000 grit diamond followed by a shapton pro 15k, but the norton might take a little work out of the middle if you keep it (we're talking a matter of a minute on the two I use to bring a paring chisel back into shape to the point that it leaves no lines at all on a surface).

If you decide to go that route, do a little shopping around - a shapton pro 15k type stone should be available somewhere for $90.

[Zach England]

I have been flattening my shapton stones with norton lapping "stone" (the green one with the grooves). I have always gotten results that I feel are equal, if not superior, to my previous "scary sharp" setup and A LOT faster. I use 2k, 5k and 8k for daily sharpening, plus a 1k norton for more severe sharpening and a big ugly green stone for the times I feel like really ruining a blade.

[Terry Beadle]

In Frank Kaluse's video on basic sharpening and tool prep, he makes a water tight pine box that holds the stone and water resource. Uses a thick wire to pound a grove all around the bottom, planes it off until it's just flat, then assembles the box and lets it soak. The wire pounded and flattened grove swells and seals the bottom to the sides. Nifty ! The stone is rested on a working bar above the water and a small scrap of rag tacked on to a short stick is used to re-wet the stone during use.

I use tupperware ! Hoot !
I just store about 5 stones in a large container that keeps them all immersed.
Brings a new meaning to Party On Dude !

[Don Dorn]

Who said you need to use the Shapton Flattening plate? If someone actually said to your face "You must use the Shapton flattening plate with Shapton water stones" then don't listen to them any more, because a: they are lying or b: they are trying to sell you something.

They may just be misinformed, but even that level of misinformation is astounding.



Stu.

Don't want to hijack the thread so will keep this short and then clam up. I agree, but it was my understanding that the DMT wasn't considered "flat enough" for this use. Frankly though, it's been flat enough to give me a burr all the way across my blades as a medium stone, so what you say makes sense and will eventually make that leap to the Shaptons. Thanks to all who imputted on the subject. Back to the OP issue.

[David Weaver]

Don't want to hijack the thread so will keep this short and then clam up. I agree, but it was my understanding that the DMT wasn't considered "flat enough" for this use. Frankly though, it's been flat enough to give me a burr all the way across my blades as a medium stone, so what you say makes sense and will eventually make that leap to the Shaptons. Thanks to all who imputted on the subject. Back to the OP issue.

I think most dmt plates are plenty flat. I've used one and a friend has used one, and the stones have never come off of it out of flat.

I use an atoma now just because I beat my DMT into submission using it as a sharpener at the same time, and it cuts slow on the stone now.

I like the atoma better because it swarfs up with stone crap a little less easily in my shop where I don't have running water next to the stones.

But both worked fine.

If a DMT duosharp (what I used) or whatever else is found to be out of flat, DMT should replace it.

[John-Paul Volkenant]

I built this thing because my previous setup left me way too much of a mess, and setting the stone up was too much work. I enjoy working wood; sharpening needs to be fast and painless.

A piece of tupperware sits in the box, which holds the water and stones.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UAR4SmgcfM8/TAMDbTskL-I/AAAAAAAAAxM/U86hTYUnbJ8/s800/DSC05346.JPG

The stone is secured with a wedge.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UAR4SmgcfM8/TAMDjn1yjoI/AAAAAAAAAxw/AX1el-4ayvo/s800/DSC05358.JPG

[Tony Shea]

I have to say John, that is the prettiest stone pond I have ever seen in my life and probably will ever see. You really didn't mess around with poor quality wood for the box at all. I would be scared to ding that beautiful thing up while sharpening and making a mess with my stones. The idea is great and is just what I have to make immediatly, I can't say my pond will be such beautiful wood though. Nice example John and very well thought out and made.

[Zach England]

Thanks, john. That is a really innovative design, especially the wedge. I think I'll try to put something together that is like that x3.

I'm still not entirely comfortable with the idea of using wood, though.

[John-Paul Volkenant]

Thanks, john. That is a really innovative design, especially the wedge. I think I'll try to put something together that is like that x3.

I'm still not entirely comfortable with the idea of using wood, though.

The idea for this came from Making and Mastering Wooden Planes by David Finck. You could probably find a piece of heavy duty tupperware with a decent rim around it, make a cradle like mine, and dado either end to fit the rim. I think Finck uses a sort of dinner tray.

Responding from a mobile device. I apologize for any errors, and will be more thorough when I get the chance.

[John-Paul Volkenant]

I have to say John, that is the prettiest stone pond I have ever seen in my life and probably will ever see. You really didn't mess around with poor quality wood for the box at all. I would be scared to ding that beautiful thing up while sharpening and making a mess with my stones. The idea is great and is just what I have to make immediatly, I can't say my pond will be such beautiful wood though. Nice example John and very well thought out and made.

Easier now; at the computer...

Tony,

I had the soft maple lying around doing nothing, and not much of it at that. The cradle is redwood, scraps from a minor exterior trim project from a few years back.

After a few months use, the box is still in unmarred condition. It has a few coats of BLO and two coats of poly and wax on top. The BLO really brought out the grain and color of both species. You can't tell much from the photos, but the molding has some tiger striping in it. I don't even know what you'd call the pieces of the box...spalted? Where the stone rests on the cradle has turned a murky black. I like it. And no dings or dents yet. And I'm not worried if I do beat it up. This was made to make my sharpening life easier, with scraps that were basically worth nothing. Plus, it gave me a chance to practice some hand tool skills. The only power used on the box was in cutting the miters for the molding. Why? I haven't yet made a miter block for my backsaw or miter shooting board for my plane.

Thanks for the compliments on the box.

[Callan Campbell]

The L-V stone pond holds more than 2 waterstones, esp the thinner ones that are not as fat as a King stone. I think the "pond" is hard to beat, it's waterproof, light, has grabby strips on its bottom to keep it in place while you're working. The bars that support the stones are aluminum, and the clamps are bent stainless steel. With plastic, stainless steel, and aluminum, you've got little to worry about with water compared to wood if you're not just spraying a few shots on a stone with a handy sprayer.
The price is still decent too, although they've gone up a bit since I bought mine some years back.
Won't be as pretty as the shopmade ones posted here though.:p