Bandsaw Throwing tires/tyres?

[Matt Logana]

All of a sudden, my bandsaw began throwing the tires (Pinkish material, not sure if they are rubber or Urethane.) I dont know if its because I have a dull blade(I have noticed excessive heat on the blade(warm to the touch) or what.

It happened twice: The first time I was cutting, when a piece of (well call it) rubber burned off and fell right behind my hand... At first I thought that I cut off a piece of my finger, or something.. till I noticed no injuries, and that it smelled of burned rubber... Then the second time I smelled burned rubber, only to open the cover and find it rubbing...

I dont know if its related, but when I removed the wheel to properly seat it, between the two bearings, were shards of metal. I brushed themout, not sure if they were from the milling process, or if they are from grinding together. They didnt look damaged, nor do I hear grinding, so I can only assume that they are from the milling process.

[Mark Wyatt]

You could have a more serious issue given the metal, but on my Jet 14" band saw when the rubber top tire fell apart it ended up in shreds. The silver lining is that replacement tires have provided improved performance and were not all that difficult or time consuming to install.

[Matt Logana]

Like I said, I assume thats from milling, but someone else with a Delta may know.

Funny, since my tire has only burned a tad on the edge...

[Myk Rian]

What are you cutting to develop all the heat?
Where is the rubber coming from?

[Bob Vallaster]

Matt,
I would suspect two things: 1) a crummy tire, or 2) the upper wheel is dragging and the driven blade is working on the interface between power and resistance (the tire).
The presence of metal shavings is curious. Even if from milling as you presume, debris on a bearing seat can cause axial misalignment which yields drag, heat and wear. That's for a sealed bearing. Debris near an open bearing adds to the potential excitement.
Check whether your upper wheel is in plane with the lower. Check blade tracking. Check the bearings are seated in their machined recesses and that the inner races have near zero side clearance when the assembly is nutted on the upper chaft; do not crush them beyond zero---preload will cause drag and premature wear.

BobV

[Will Overton]

All of a sudden, my bandsaw began throwing the tires

Did this start before or after you removed the wheel?

[Matt Logana]

Did this start before or after you removed the wheel?

Before, which is why I removed the wheel.


Matt,
I would suspect two things: 1) a crummy tire, or 2) the upper wheel is dragging and the driven blade is working on the interface between power and resistance (the tire).
The presence of metal shavings is curious. Even if from milling as you presume, debris on a bearing seat can cause axial misalignment which yields drag, heat and wear. That's for a sealed bearing. Debris near an open bearing adds to the potential excitement.
Check whether your upper wheel is in plane with the lower. Check blade tracking. Check the bearings are seated in their machined recesses and that the inner races have near zero side clearance when the assembly is nutted on the upper chaft; do not crush them beyond zero---preload will cause drag and premature wear.

BobV

Hmmm Will take a look. I assume crummy tire. How do I check if they are seated, there appears to be no recesses... I assume they are sealed, noting the presence of a tiny screw that would usually be removed to insert oil(On the hub of the wheel penetrating into the recess.)

How the heck would I crush the bearings...


What are you cutting to develop all the heat?
Where is the rubber coming from?

Wood. Rubber would be from the tire. Rubbing created the effect almost like that of an eraser.

[Bob Vallaster]

Matt,
Your first post says 14'' bandsaw; your second post hints at Delta. No clue to vintage or country of manufacture. And no pictures.
My acquaintance is limited to American-made Delta 14s---don't know the bones of the ones from over the pond.
The upper wheel mounts on a spindle in the same fashion as a hub assembly for a wheel on the non-driving axle of a car, truck, trailor, bicycle.
The recess to which I referred is the machined socket on either side of the wheel, into which the bearing outer race fits. The bearing should seat squarely and to the bottom.
If there is a spacer in the hub hollow between the bearings, then assembling the bearings and wheel on the spindle is almost idiot-proof. The spacer length is probably equal to the distance between the bottoms of the bearing seats on either side of the hub (assuming inner and outer races have the same width); if shorter, I would sweat about bearing preload---> call the factory for a spec and shim if needed. With a spacer, overtorquing the spindle nut will not crush the inner races inward and preload the bearings. My current model 28-245 has such an inner spacer. I have had others which did not have it.
Without a spacer between the bearings, I drop back to the same thing I do on a car or truck: stop tightening the nut when zero side clearance is achieved, and get on down the road.

RE: tire burned a tad on the edge. Check plane of the upper wheel and check tracking.

BobV

[Matt Logana]

Matt,
Your first post says 14'' bandsaw; your second post hints at Delta. No clue to vintage or country of manufacture. And no pictures.
My acquaintance is limited to American-made Delta 14s---don't know the bones of the ones from over the pond.
The upper wheel mounts on a spindle in the same fashion as a hub assembly for a wheel on the non-driving axle of a car, truck, trailor, bicycle.
The recess to which I referred is the machined socket on either side of the wheel, into which the bearing outer race fits. The bearing should seat squarely and to the bottom.
If there is a spacer in the hub hollow between the bearings, then assembling the bearings and wheel on the spindle is almost idiot-proof. The spacer length is probably equal to the distance between the bottoms of the bearing seats on either side of the hub (assuming inner and outer races have the same width); if shorter, I would sweat about bearing preload---> call the factory for a spec and shim if needed. With a spacer, overtorquing the spindle nut will not crush the inner races inward and preload the bearings. My current model 28-245 has such an inner spacer. I have had others which did not have it.
Without a spacer between the bearings, I drop back to the same thing I do on a car or truck: stop tightening the nut when zero side clearance is achieved, and get on down the road.

RE: tire burned a tad on the edge. Check plane of the upper wheel and check tracking.

BobV


Sorry for the confusion, its a 28-276, circa 2006.

There is a spacer(Rubber Washer) on the interior side of the bearings.