The Witch's Cauldron - To Dye For?!?

[John Keeton]

The process of dye application intrigues me, and I want to try several different applications. The ones that I have done have been pretty simple, and the results are not always predictable.:confused: I need more experience with them in order to be able to get predictable outcomes.

A lot of you do not like dyed wood, and I can appreciate that. Hope you won't ex-communicate me for adulterating a very nice piece of burl!:eek::o

This is a Big Leaf Maple Burl, supported by an African Blackwood pedestal. Not really anything special from a turning aspect, but it did give me a good canvas for trying some dyes. The pics do not really show all the subtle color variations very well, and certainly do not show the chatoyance this piece has.

I first applied black Transtint dye, sanded it back, then applied bright red in the bottom with streaks up the side. Then I applied lemon yellow from the outer edges, streaking down between the red portions. The underlayer of black caused the bright red to be a deep wine color, and turned the yellow a green. The piece was lightly sanded afterward.

Finish is lacquer, and triple buffed. The pedestal is sanded to 2,000 and Ren wax only.

I did learn a lesson on this one. Got the inside of the form a little warm while buffing, and you guessed it! The burl raised up some faint cracks on me!:mad: The outside finished out nicely.

I will do more of the dyed pieces, but with some different ideas.

[Tom Sherman]

Well John I have to say this one will probly get you another cover shot on WOW. I like it very much I think the dye gives it an almost translucent look. Very well done.

[David E Keller]

I like it. The pedestal is perfect, and I think the coloring really adds to the piece. What dyes did you use? I've got a couple of pieces of curly/quilted maple that I'm saving for a dye job.

It's probably just the photos, but the curve on the burl piece looks disrupted in a few of the photos... kinda like it flattens out nearing the rim. Probably just an optical illusion.

[John Keeton]

Thanks, guys. David, the dyes were all Transtint in water. The form is pretty much dead on a semi-sphere, so I think it is an optical illusion. There are a lot of edge undulations, and I guess I failed to accomodate those in the pics. Chalk it up to lousy photography!

[Thom Sturgill]

John, fantastic as always. You do have an eye for turning.

I for one have nothing against dye if used judiciously. It DOES help bring out the figure in a piece of wood, but does little for plain grained wood. I have not started down that path yet, I am starting to experiment with incorporating segmentation into pieces (I've done a couple of segmented collars, and one stave piece so far) and am starting to add a little carving. My next stave piece will include some curly maple, and I am thinking of adding dyes to it.

[gary Zimmel]

Another winner John...
You not only have an eye for seeing what's in the chunk wood, you have the talent to bring it to life....
Sweet job again.

[Michael James]

John,
You are on a roll for sure. Follow your muse, and make your offerings! :cool:
Excellent job and I hope you will continue to share your discoveries!
mj

[Gary Conklin]

Wow when I first looked at it I thought it was glowing from a light above, nice job. Interesting piece, well done.

[Roger Chandler]

Now that is an absolutely GORGEOUS piece of work. You were right about the chatoyence, and the finish is truly first class! I like the pedestal very much as well, and it is proportionally balanced to the main body.....................really nice work,

Thanks for sharing with us!:)

That is continuing to raise the bar........... elite turning from a down to earth humble man that refuses to let his head swell [thankfully] ........John, your work can grace any gallery in the world [IMHO] Really nice just is not an adequate superlative, but this one ..............

[Bob Bergstrom]

John
Beautiful work. For the sake of discussion, did you find the use of black first a plus or did it make the other colors too subtle. I find black difficult to use without overpowering the piece. Also you used water as the additive (some say alcohol gives more uniform absorbtion. Did you seal the wood with a wash coat first, and was the dye brushed on or sprayed. Sorry for all the questions but I like to know how others use dyes and finishes.

[Curt Fuller]

John, you have a heck of an imagination! I like it!

[Steve Schlumpf]

John - I really like this! Reminds me of a Tiffany Art Deco style glass lamp shade! The dyes give the piece a feeling of translucence and that really captures your attention!

I also like the pedestal - simple detail work, clean lines and not overly ornate. Works well with the bowl portion and does not compete for attention.

I predict this will be a big hit at your artist reception! Very nice work! Thanks for sharing!

[David DeCristoforo]

Sweet! It looks like a flower from some other world. Very ethereal.

[John W Dixon]

I gotta say I like it very much. Very Much!

John

[Jon Lanier]

That is absolutely gorgeous. I love the bowl, but I really like the stem.

[Paul Douglass]

Oh, WOW!!!

[brian watts]

Sweet! It looks like a flower from some other world. Very ethereal.


was thinking the same thing...

[Jon Lanier]

What are the dimensions?

[John Keeton]

Thanks to all - you guys are easy to please!! This is a very simple turning, and it was done mainly to provide a subject for the dye process.
John
Beautiful work. For the sake of discussion, did you find the use of black first a plus or did it make the other colors too subtle. I find black difficult to use without overpowering the piece. Also you used water as the additive (some say alcohol gives more uniform absorbtion. Did you seal the wood with a wash coat first, and was the dye brushed on or sprayed. Sorry for all the questions but I like to know how others use dyes and finishes.Bob, for me, using black dye is a way of really creating contrast. A little goes a long way. No sealer was used. The piece is sanded back heavily after the black dye, and before the application of the other colors. On this piece, I left more black toward the bottom tapering out to what appeared to be nearly all of it sanded off at the rim.

However, it is deceptive. While it may appear that you have removed all of the black, it is still there - deep in the grain. It will really pop when finish is applied. That is why you must sand it back way beyond what you think you are doing. If you stop when you "think" it is right, it will overpower.

Same for the other colors. After sanding them out, one would swear the piece is a muted, faded mess. But, then apply the finish!!

Bob, you know this, but for others - one caution, black dye is comprised largely of blue pigment. That will effect all other colors that are applied. It will tint the yellow to a green, the red to a wine/purple tone, etc. So, to that end, one must plan ahead with the black.

On water vs. alcohol, I think water based dye is much easier to use as it is more foregiving in application. Alcohol dries much quicker and can create distinct dye edges that cannot be removed. I would think spraying alcohol based dye would be a safer method - perhaps with a Cricket sprayer, or air brush setup.

Water does raise the grain, but when one is sanding the piece multiple times with this type of dye process, grain raising is a non-issue.

I just used a piece of paper shop towel for the application, and wiped in on. But, I did give direction to the dye "wipes" so as to follow the uplifting grain of the burl. The red was applied to the center of the bottom, and then 5-6 swipes up the side toward the rim that kind of came to a point - like flames. Then, on the yellow dye, I did the reverse - starting at the rim, and sweeping down with pointed swipes between the red. They overlap a little on all edges.

Then, while wet, I took a dry piece of shop towel, and briskly rubbed the piece, blending the edges of the colors.

What are the dimensions?Jon, the piece is 6.5" tall, and the "bowl" is about 4.75" at the widest area of the rim. The pedestal stem is 4 5/8" tall and about 1/8" thick in the narrow portions. The captured bead is 7/16" wide. The base of the stem is just under 1.5" wide, and the top of the stem is 1" wide.

Thanks, again, for the interest in this process - that is really why it was done. I wanted something rather plain so the dyed look would be the prominent feature.

[Roger Chandler]

John,

This is an extraordinary turning! [most of yours are ;)] I was wondering about how you do your photographs ............ I have heard about light boxes and something called photogradient[?] paper, but I do not know how that is set up.

Is that what you use? I ask because your background and lighting show all of the features in your turning without a lot of shadow, etc.

[Michelle Rich]

John, what a delight this piece is.(.just tell me when to go to WOW and congratulate you on pic of the day..) So delicate..lovely coloration (anything lighter/brighter would not look as elegant) You have been blessed with amazing hands, art skills to die for, and the ability to get Dolly to take a pic with you!!!! :-) :-) The fact that you started this journey in later life astounds me. It would seem to be a driving force..you must have 100's of pieces saved in your memory bank for making...I am thrilled you share these with this wood hacker.

[Richard Madden]

Beautiful piece John. I like what you did with the dyes. Gotta try it someday. Last week I bought a case of 16 oz. bottles of leather/fabric dye (alcohol base) for $6.00, only 0.50/ bottle so I'm ready when I find the right piece of wood. Seeing what you have done is an inspiration. Thanks for sharing.

[Belinda Barfield]

Steve beat me to it. My first thought when I saw this piece was "Tiffany". Truly beautiful, John.

[Roger Chandler]

John,

After reading your response to Bob, about your process.........one begins to think that there is something in the "artist" level of thinking that goes beyond the average turner.

You have stated in earlier postings that you think a project through all the way to completion including what woods to use and the steps involved and the finish process...........That must be what an "artist" does versus the chip and curlee manufacturer :D

[Mike Minto]

John, you are turning (couldn't resist) out some really fantastic items - whoulda thunk a lawyer would have art in his heart (also couldn't resist). :D

[Josh Bowman]

John, you've done it again! Looks great.

[Frank Van Atta]

A great piece, and I like the dye job, too.

[Rob Cunningham]

Beautiful piece John, the dye really brings the burl to life. When I use Transtint on my flat work, I mix it into a 50/50 solution of water/DNA. This allows the dye to penetrate the wood but dry quicker so there's not as much grain raise.

[Bernie Weishapl]

John all I can say is Wow and beautiful. You just continue to raise the bar.

[Frank Van Atta]

Beautiful piece John, the dye really brings the burl to life. When I use Transtint on my flat work, I mix it into a 50/50 solution of water/DNA. This allows the dye to penetrate the wood but dry quicker so there's not as much grain raise.

The best of both worlds! How come I never thought of that?

[John Keeton]

Beautiful piece John, the dye really brings the burl to life. When I use Transtint on my flat work, I mix it into a 50/50 solution of water/DNA. This allows the dye to penetrate the wood but dry quicker so there's not as much grain raise.Rob, the Transtint instructions mention that, and I am sure it works great. In this application, the piece was going to be fine sanded multiple times, and several heavy coats of lacquer applied. Raising the grain wasn't a concern. Were the piece to be one color, and not sanded out, then I think your method would certainly be preferable. Thanks for mentioning it - others may want to try it, as well.

[John Keeton]

Thanks for the additional comments!! This was a fun piece!
I was wondering about how you do your photographs ............ I have heard about light boxes and something called photogradient[?] paper, but I do not know how that is set up.

Is that what you use? I ask because your background and lighting show all of the features in your turning without a lot of shadow, etc.Roger, I use an adaptation of a photo tent plan (http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/light_box_light_tent)by Bill Huber using PVC. For the background, I use the #39 vinyl gradient from Phototechinc.com (http://www.phototechinc.com/graduate.htm)The tent is covered by white cotton sheet material that Ms. Keeton supplied - an old bedsheet would work fine. I light from the sides, through the sheet material, with a halogen work light on either side - probably not the best, but I color correct my pics anyway. I am to cheap to buy additional lights! I shoot the pics with the shop totally dark except for the tent lights.


John, what a delight this piece is.(.just tell me when to go to WOW and congratulate you on pic of the day..) So delicate..lovely coloration (anything lighter/brighter would not look as elegant) You have been blessed with amazing hands, art skills to die for, and the ability to get Dolly to take a pic with you!!!! :-) :-) The fact that you started this journey in later life astounds me. It would seem to be a driving force..you must have 100's of pieces saved in your memory bank for making...I am thrilled you share these with this wood hacker.Michelle, you are so very kind with your comments - thanks! Very much! I do have a lot of ideas, and if the good Lord will let me hang around long enough, I hope to commit many of them to wood.

Richard, the leather dyes are alcohol based, and can be tricky, but you can blend the edges some by using a cloth soaked with DNA if you move quickly! I have never tried to add water, but it might work similar to what Rob mentioned.

[Alan Trout]

John,

Very nice piece I like everything about it. Form, contrast, and creativity. I do think I would have had the foot of the pedestal a tad thinner as I think it looks a little heavy compared to the rest of the piece. But then again I can't say that if I would have turned it, I would not have left it that way either. Typically when I get an idea in my head I tend to think it looks just fine the way it is.

Alan

[Bob Bergstrom]

Thanks John. It is always interesting to listen to techniques others use. Most of my dye jobs involve an air brush to get uniform coloring. I also like mixing dyes into my lacquers using as a translucent paint. I would again like to thank you for a great explanation of how you did it.