shellac/orange peel

[ryan kelley]

I bought a can of spray shellac(bullseye?) to use as a sealer and it dried with a really bad orange peel effect. I sprayed the first coat light so for the second I sprayed it on heavy but that made it worse. I have know idea what I did wrong, it was my first time using shellac. Can anyone help me out this?

[John Keeton]

Ryan, is it orange peel or fisheye? Orange peel is usually technique, or a lousy sprayer tip on the can. Fisheye is usually contamination under the finish.

[Bill Davis]

I bought a can of spray shellac(bullseye?) to use as a sealer and it dried with a really bad orange peel effect. I sprayed the first coat light so for the second I sprayed it on heavy but that made it worse. I have know idea what I did wrong, it was my first time using shellac. Can anyone help me out this?

I agree with John that the cause of orange peel is most likely technique. If it was a rattle can spray your options are not as many as air pressure is not something you have a choice of nor is changing the amount of solvent in the finish. Distance from the piece being finished or moving the gun too fast or slow may be the culprit. Experiment some with more or less distance from the sprayer to the piece. You might have to remove the finish and start over.
In general I'd try:
Increasing air pressure.
Thinning the finish.
Holding the gun closer or move it more slowly being sure to apply a fully wet coat.
Move the gun farther away and move the gun faster so as not to cause ripple.
Experiment.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I mix my own shellac and put it on by hand. I haven't had any luck with the spray can. I mix it in 1 lb and 2 lb cut.

[David E Keller]

I mix my own as well... Glass jar + 30%flakes(super blonde) + DNA to the top = home brew shellac. I wipe it on with a piece of paper towel.

[Prashun Patel]

I've gotten orange peel from the spray cans of Zinsser. The problem is spraying too close and too heavy. I get the best results when I restrain myself and just put on dust coats 10-30 minutes apart. Don't go over it multiple times in a single session.

Also, while it kills me to waste it, it's a good idea to spray it upside down in a safe place to clean the nozzle. I found if I didn't do that, after a few sessions, I'd get drips.

[Michael James]

Ryan,
The Z company makes a "french polish" blend that rubs on and is perfect, IMHO, for sealing spinning wood. I have the clear, and apparently they make an amber too. But all shellac has some amber to it. I use it on almost everything and Im running out. It's really foolproof.
I thought I would use some spray on poly on some stuff and spent more time last week/end trying to UNDO the funk on the wood than it usually takes to cut, turn and finish something. I truly feel your pain here...........:(

BTW - if the amber tint is unacceptable for whatever reason, I just use a brush on sanding sealer - dip a piece of paper towel in, wipe it on...spin and wipe in. The can will last forever!

Update: I didin't find the french polish product on a quick search, but that doesnt mean it's still not out there. Im going to their Sealcoat if no can find. It's a liquid and a can should last me the rest of my lifetime. Whatever shellac you use, make sure it's dewaxed if not the topcoat.

[ryan kelley]

thanks guys for the replies, I'll keep experimenting on scrap. Had to sand way too much.