Handle making question

[Scott Hackler]

How do you all drill a perfectly centered hole ina long handle? I bought a hickory axe handle, cut it in half, and turned the ends round. But after trying to drill the hole, with a hand drill and inserting the steel.... the hole wasnt straight. :(

This handle was way too long for my counter top drill press.

How does everyone else do this?

[Gary Herrmann]

Get a jacobs chuck with a morse taper that matches your tailstock. Chuck up the appropriate size bit then drill to depth. This assumes your handle is chucked up in your headstock.

You might need a steady rest or use your fingers on the end near the bit to account for whip.

[Robert McGowen]

I would do it like Gary describes, but I am assuming that you do not have a Jacobs's chuck or you would not be asking this question.

You could try chucking up the wood as it you were going to turn it. Take the live center out of the tail stock and push it up against the piece of wood. Drill the hole through the tail stock with a hand drill and the hole in the wood will be in line with the head stock. Put the center back into the tail stock and put the center into the hole in the wood. Then turn the wood round. The hole should be parallel and perfectly centered.

Clear as mud?

[John Keeton]

Like Gary, I use a Jacob's chuck - very handy to have for a variety of tasks. But, Robert's idea is a very good substitute!

BTW, I use the Jacob's chuck for nearly all of my turnings, in one way or another.

[Mike Davis NC]

I just put the bit in a pair of vise grips and set the tip of the bit against the center drive hole in the piece of wood then start the lathe on very slow speed until I get a couple inches drilled then turn it up a little faster and drill it all the way. Haven't had any problems with drilling anything yet.

[Scott Hackler]

Thanks for the ideas. No I haven't sprung for a Jacobs chuck yet. I figured that is what I needed. I guess its next on the list!

[Thom Sturgill]

I have done the same as Gary, but what worked better for me was to put the MT in the headstock. Use a spur bit if you can. Put the spur into the center mark (either punched or from the live or drive center) and line the other end up with the tail stock. Turn on the lathe and push the piece on to the drill bit. The bit does NOT have to be the size of the tool. You can hand drill the hole to size using the hole drilled on the lathe as a pilot hole.

Reverse the piece and mount it in a chuck. Put the point of the live center in the hole and turn the handle round and size the tenon for the ferrule at the tailstock end. Drive the ferrule on and finish turning the handle. Richard Raffan covers this in 'Turning Wood'

[Jerry Marcantel]

Scott, if you're handy at making jigs, make a 90° like in pic 1..
Make a V block like the one in pic 2.
If your drill press head rotates, move your drill press to the edge of your bench/table and clamp/bolt it down. Rotate the DP head until the quill is positioned at the center of your handle like picture 3.. You could get a De Sta Co clamp like picture 4 to hold it steady while drilling, but stacking stuff under the handle will give you something solid hold it from creeping down while drilling....
If your DP doesn't rotate, go with the other suggestions...
I just purchased a #2Mt 33JT to use my drill chuck in my tailstock. You can get them at most Wood craft stores.... I paid about 15 bucks for mine..... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Scott,
The new Forstner style bits by Colt can be accessorized with an adapter that fits your morse taper. They're not cheap but drill the straightest hole in end grain I've seen.
fmr

[David E Keller]

You can also knock the jacobs chuck out of your drill press... Before I bought a separate one, I used to do that with mine.