Sealing the back of a contractor TS

[Anthony Scott]

I am planning on adding a "catch" to the underneath of my Ridgid TS3600 table saw. That seems pretty straightforward. However, being a contractor type saw, there is a big gap in the back top accommodate the motor a pulley. This assembly swings wide when the blade is tilted. To me, it looks like any type of covering to seal this area from dust escaping would be useless because such a large hole would have to be cut to accommodate the motor movement.
Has anyone seen a better idea for this?
Thanks

[John R Green]

http://www.newwoodworker.com/jetdust.html

[Dan Friedrichs]

What John showed will work to decrease dust from falling out the back of the saw onto the floor behind it. I tried something similar, and it did nothing for the dust that's tossed up from the blade - to deal with that, consider building an overarm dust collector.

[Alan Bienlein]

Here is what I did on my Ridgid TS3650. I made a cardboard template and taped it to the back of the saw and made sure I could get full rande of movement without having to romove the cover. When all was clear I made a permanent one out of metal. I also enclosed the bottom with a piece of 1/4" masonite and attached a 6" 90 degree elbow to connect it to my cyclone.
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[Clint Olver]

I did the same thing when I had a contractor saw, but there is a better product. It's called "The Boot". It completely seals the back without worrying about tilting the blade.

http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?currency=USD&products_id=3320%26language%3Den&osCsid=2aa508a3835a6d3f777aeaf01f187660

C

[Alan Bienlein]

The only problem with something like that on my setup is it would get sucked into the saw by my cyclone!:eek: Closing it in that much would starve my dust collection system of the air flow it needs to be effective.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Anthony,

A friend has a Ridgid TS3650. He used magnetic sign material that he bought on ebay to seal the back of his saw. When he needs access, he just pulls it off.

[Darin Higginbotham]

I made a curtain of sorts out of a large truck innertube, solid at the top but cut into strips that hang. It allows the motor to be tilted and the belt to run freely but keeps the dust where it belongs. The bottom has a piece of quarter inch hardboard with a six inch boot to hook up to my 3hp dust collector, no problems going on six months, I also have three inch hose running to the above saw collection, gets almost all the dust.

[Floyd Mah]

I made a back panel for my contractor saw, cut slots to accommodate the movement of the drive belt with tilting of the arbor. To help control the amount of dust escaping through the slots, I glued some bristles to the edge of the slots. Most of the slots were covered and where the belts ran, there was only the bristles lightly touching the belt. I have since found a better source of material for covering the slots in my local hardware store. There are strips used for covering the lower edge of exterior doors which are constructed with bristles. It may be possible to adapt these strips for that function. Anyway, just another possible approach.

[Anthony Scott]

Great ideas! thanks all

[Bill White]

My Grizz 0444Z has the bottom 4" hose connector, and I have partially coverd the back of the saw. Too much cover will render the dust collector useless, so keep an open mind about how much you need to cover.
Bill

[Jim O'Dell]

On my Ridgid 3612 (or 0050 as I've moved the rail all the way to the right :D ) I used the method that Alan did, only I used 1/8" thick ABS. I have another piece on the motor that rides against the main piece that covers a little more of the slot, but still allows full movement. I did a write up in a thread here one time, but I don't see it. If it would help, I can get some pictures later. Jim.

edit: Ok, here are the pictures of mine: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=45552 posts 12 & 13. Picture of final is dark. I can still take a new one of that if needed.

[Cody Colston]

On my old craftsman contractor's saw, I used a piece of 1/4" hardboard to seal the back with slots cut so that it would straddle the belt. I put magnetic tape around the perimeter of the hardboard to hold it against the saw. I had my cyclone connected on the bottom via 8" duct and it worked very well. Just don't drop the arbor nut or washer...DAMHIKT.

When I had to tilt the blade, I simply pulled it off and replaced it when the blade was back to vertical. The magnetic tape made it a easy and, besides, the majority of the time the blade is vertical, anyway.

[Anthony Scott]

Magnetic tape is a great idea!

[Dan Karachio]

I did the same thing when I had a contractor saw, but there is a better product. It's called "The Boot". It completely seals the back without worrying about tilting the blade.

http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?currency=USD&products_id=3320%26language%3Den&osCsid=2aa508a3835a6d3f777aeaf01f187660

C

Looks interesting Clint, but it makes me worry about the belt getting in the way and heat from the motor. Can you tell us more?

[Jason White]

That has to be the best option I've seen thus far. Hopefully it won't get sucked into the saw when a dust collector is hooked up at the bottom.




I did the same thing when I had a contractor saw, but there is a better product. It's called "The Boot". It completely seals the back without worrying about tilting the blade. http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?currency=USD=332026language3Den=2 aa508a3835a6d3f777aeaf01f187660 ("http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?currency=USD=332026language3Den=2 aa508a3835a6d3f777aeaf01f187660") C

[Tom Henderson2]

I am planning on adding a "catch" to the underneath of my Ridgid TS3600 table saw. That seems pretty straightforward. However, being a contractor type saw, there is a big gap in the back top accommodate the motor a pulley. This assembly swings wide when the blade is tilted. To me, it looks like any type of covering to seal this area from dust escaping would be useless because such a large hole would have to be cut to accommodate the motor movement.
Has anyone seen a better idea for this?
Thanks

Hi Anthony-

I did something similar on my Craftsman CS. I built a chute that ducts the sawdust from the bottom opening into a box that sits below the saw. Then I used some hardboard with magnets to close off the openings around the height-adjustment knob and the rear cavity. I don't have any kind of suction system, just gravity.

The results have been less than I had hoped. The box does collect a fair amount of dust, so it is better than nothing. But there is still quite a bit of dust that settles under and around the saw, as well as the sawdust that gets thrown onto the top surface from the blade.

I'm sure things would be better if I had a suction system of some sort, but that isn't going to happen any time soon.

So calibrate your expectations, and be sure to report back what you tried and how it worked....

-TH

[Kent A Bathurst]

The only problem with something like that on my setup is it would get sucked into the saw by my cyclone!:eek: Closing it in that much would starve my dust collection system of the air flow it needs to be effective.


Some time back (2 yrs??) FWW had a nice article or two on exactly this topic - improving the dust collection of contractor + hybrids. Same principles applied to my Uni.

One key thing I got out of it that I had not considered was that, as you close down the OEM design's leakage, that gives you the opportunity to open up new air flow inlet paths, designed to move the air through toward the chute/DC connection, and across the motor + trunnion to keep them clean(er) and cool(er). The airflow paths of the OEM machine [at least - mine for sure] don't really address this in a well-thought-out process. Drilled slotted holes in my cabinet to fire air right across the motor and dust path. If you decide you opened up too much - just slap on some mag sign material like Ken mentioned.