Union #5 -- Restore as user questions

[Ken Cohen]

Hi --

I bought a Union #5 at a local consignment shop that was looking to unload all of its planes (I ended up with 10 other planes for free -- probably junk, but I'll cover in another post).
I am relatively new to hand work and wanted a bench plane to complement my old, restored #4.

Before viewing, I checked this site and found out that Unions are theoretically comparable to Stanleys. On inspection, the plane seemed sound, save for one big and one little flaw. My investment is very small, so if I can turn it into a good user, great -- if not, no big deal.

Hopefully attached pix tell the story. Issues as I see them:

Lateral adjuster: bent out of shape and currently useless. Metal seems easily pliable, so bending back to correct shape seems doable, but I need a reference as to the proper shape.

Bigger problem with the lateral adjuster is that the connection with the frog has come loose, allowing significant up/down movement at the rivet. Need a suggested fix please.

Handle: Probably marginally useful in current condition. Need thoughts. (Also, is the front screw added?)

Blade: Not a problem, but how do I tell if it's worth fixing up?

Otherwise, everything seems sound. No obvious cracks in the castings. Sole close to flat, etc.

I would appreciate advice on the specific issues and any general restoration advice. FYI, I plan to clean/restore it as a user, i.e. not worry too much about preserving its vintage look.

Thanks in advance for the time and suggestions.

Ken

[David Weaver]

just bend the lateral lever back into shape. I wouldn't worry about the looseness - it doesn't make much of a difference when the iron is on the plane - it won't move up and down. If it is too loose laterally and causes problems in adjustment, you can pein the rivet that holds it in. (I've done that once, but I really have never *had* to do it. slop in a lateral adjuster really isn't a big deal on a plane). You can also remove it if pleases you and adjust the iron laterally by tapping it instead.

The tote is either non-original or was just hacked up by someone. It's ugly, but it should work fine.

If the iron isn't completely used and if it isn't full of pits, it's fine.

My advice would be to clean up the iron and frog, you can take it all apart if you want to get 50 year old dead spiders and old dust out of it.

Put it together, clean the rust off the sole and the iron, hone the iron, and see how it works. Worry about more if you want to keep it from there. # fives with mangled totes don't bring a lot of money, so there's only reason to fool with it if you intend to keep it.

The front tote screw is correct and probably original.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on what David said.

You may be able to date the plane by the inscription on the blade if it is the original blade. Stanley bought Union Plane Co. in about 1920. Planes sold after that had Stanley SW blades. Before about 1917 the blades were stamped with a Union Manufacturing Co logo.

The Union blades are thicker than the Stanley blades. The slot on a Union plane blade is slightly narrower than on a Stanley blade.

Try this site to see what the lateral adjuster should look like:

http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/graphics/plane%20id.html

I am not sure about the handle. Most makers did have a toe screw on the plane sizes bigger than a #4. Some had a higher profile than others. For some reason guys like to take things apart. This leads to the loss of parts. It could be that the tote was replaced with one having a higher profile at the toe. It could also be a screw was lost and a shorter screw was used as a replacement necessitating the toe trimming.

Over the years, thread standards have changed. Some of those odd thread screws are difficult at best to find.

jim

[Richard Kee]

Ken,

FWIW, Union apparently had a front screw on the totes on their planes - I have a #2 with a front screw. Your looks as if someone lost the original screw, found a shorter one, and trimmed back part of the tote to accomodate the shorter screw. On my #2, the front of the base of the tote is the same shape all the way to the front end.

Richard

[James Scheffler]

I have a similar Union No. 5. It is a very solid plane, and the 1/8" thick blade is a good thing. My complaint with the design is that there is less clearance between the tote and frog than a Stanley. I found that the frog needs to be moved forward to fit my hand, which closes up the throat. Not really what most would want from a jack plane.

Jim S.

[Mark Wyatt]

First picture is of a similar vintage Union #6 lateral adjustment lever. Although not "perfect" this is about what it should look like.

The second picture is the tote (and screw) from the same plane. The tote is lighter and thinnew than a similar vintage Stanley. Interestingly, the front screw is barely long enough to reach the casting. It has stripped out the threads where it contacts the casting and will need to be replaced with a longer screw. Perhaps a common problem.

Third picture compares the Union blade thickness (left) to a similar vintage Stanley #6 (right). The Union is much thicher.

I just happen to be rehabbing an Union #6 right now.

[Jim Koepke]

In my first response I forgot to include information about the rivet holding the lateral lever.

The Union Lateral lever tends to be a bit lighter metal than the Stanley lateral lever. Must have used all that extra metal in the blades.

Here is a post on how I peen the rivet:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1156032#poststop

jim

[Mark Wyatt]

In my first response I forgot to include information about the rivet holding the lateral lever.

The Union Lateral lever tends to be a bit lighter metal than the Stanley lateral lever. Must have used all that extra metal in the blades.

Here is a post on how I peen the rivet:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1156032#poststop

jim


Jim's method works well. I copied it on a recent restore. Thanks Jim.

Now, as for that other "recommendation" a few days back which caused me to tune up a Stanley #112 block plane today...well...the jury's out on that one. :p Although, my 4 year old claimed it as his "new plane" today, so I guess it was good to fix it up.

[Ken Cohen]

Hi --

Thanks to all for the great advice and helpful photos. I'm following the suggestion to get it operative quickly, see how well it works, and then commit to perfecting performance, looks, etc.

Thus, I took it apart (thankfully no problems), degunked the parts with mineral spirits, used a green pad on mating surfaces and oiled up the threads. I also glued up a huge crack in the (at best questionable tote). Good news is that no new issues appeared during this quick (+dirty) exercise.

Turns out that the iron is Stanley marked Pat Apl 18.92 -- so no luck on the thicker Union Iron. Spent a half hour with the stones on the back with good results and see no issue putting in a 25 deg bevel with the grinder.

Next steps are to lap sole and sides, make sure the mating surfaces are tight, and bend the lateral adjuster back into shape (thx for the pix).

Then, I'll give it a run and see how well it works and holds.

If I've got a user, I'll go back and fix it up: peening the adjuster, a a bit more cleaning (but I don't mind the vintage look), either fixing the existing tote or finding a new one -- and bringing the right side back to 90 deg (for possible shooter use).

Again, thanks to all. I suspect I'll be back for more advice.

Ken

[Jim Koepke]

If I've got a user, I'll go back and fix it up: peening the adjuster, a a bit more cleaning (but I don't mind the vintage look), either fixing the existing tote or finding a new one -- and bringing the right side back to 90 deg (for possible shooter use).

Ken

For the tote, I think Stanley, Sargent and Union are all about the same size and pretty much interchangeable. Lee Valley also has tote plans on line to make your own. FWIW, I think Union used mahogany for their totes and Stanley used rosewood. Not sure what Sargent used.

It is not necessary to get the sides exactly 90° as long as you have some lateral adjustment. Even if you do have it exact, your shooting board may be out a degree or two.

jim

[Dave Ring]

Way to go, Ken! That knuckle-joint block plane (2nd from the left on the bottom of the bin) looks like it might be a winner, too. It's a Stanley design but the Sargent copies seem to be more common. The Craftsman version (also common) was made by Sargent. All are good.