Top three questions from a rookie turner

[Mac Houtz]

I have been messing around with wood for about ten years, building furniture mostly. Turning has always looked like a lot of fun, but up until now had not worked its way to the top of the list. Some recent projects are requiring that I either take it up myself or get someone else to turn parts for me, which I found distasteful. So here I go, I found a pretty good deal on a three year old Jet mini, which should be sufficient since the parts I need are all small enough to fit on there, and subsequent to that I would like to try turning some duck calls.

My three questions to start off are:

1. If you were just starting turning all over again, and knew what you know now, what would your most basic tool kit include? What brand of turning tools, and which tools are the top five "core" tools? ( I am pretty sure that the ones that came with my lathe are junk)

2. What is the best book/dvd out there for beginning techniques?

3. What was your #1 easily avoidable "uh-oh" moment when you were new to turning? What are the major pitfalls to be aware of and watch for?

Thanks for any info you can give me in advance, I have learned a ton from the other forums on SMC and look forward to some feedback.

I will also do a search on here and see what that turns up with regards to beginner info.

[Dennis Ford]

Hi Mac;
#1;
Start with 1 each, spindle gouge, bowl gouge & parting tool. My next choice would be a skew. That is only four, buy others after you learn those unless you like to collect tools. Benjaman's Best are execellent value tools and they are inexpensive enough that you won't have to worry about grinding away expensive steel.
#2;
Bill Grumbine's video's are probably the best for bowls. For spindle work, Cindy Drozla's video on finials would be execellent. It is not directed at beginners but gives very clear instruction on techniques. If you can find a mentor, a few hours with them will be better than any video.
#3;
Sharpening, get a decent grinder. I sharpen without a jig, this is much easier if you have a good platform for the grinder.

[Peter Lamb]

Mac,
I would recommend that you see if you are close enough to an AAW Chapter. If so join and attend. Secondly Youtube has thousands of videos. Try especially bobham5. He has many wonderful videos. You will learn a great deal. I agree with advice already given.
Good fortune,
Peter

[Aaron Wingert]

Mac I agree with Dennis' tool recommendations and would add a roughing gouge to that. The Benjamin's Best tools are hard to beat for the price. I sharpen on an 8" grinder and use a jig, which works best for me.

I turn tons of duck calls so if you need any guidance on that don't hesitate to shoot me a message. For that you'll need a collet chuck and a 5/8" mandrel of some sort. I recommend an expanding mandrel because most other types are just frustrating. Happy to help you with sources for parts, and offer my recommendations regarding the various kits on the market (most are not good).

There's a book by Greg Keats that I believe is called turning game calls. It offers a decent foundation for getting started, although some of the methods in that book are based on duck call kits. It will help you with some things and will help you get ideas. There are also a couple good callmaking web forums I can direct you to if you'd like.

No book, youtube video or online advice will replace the most important thing you can get.....Hands-on instruction from an experienced turner. You'll learn more from a couple hours of that than you'll learn in any book. I imagine someone on this forum is in your area and would eagerly help you learn the fundamentals and keep you from developing bad habits that new turners tend to pick up.

[Scott Hackler]

My top suggestions would be:

Tools: a parting tool, a 3/8" bowl gouge and a roughing gouge. ALL of good quality. I started out with a Sorby "set" ( and dont use most of the tools from the set) and can tell you that there is a giant difference in the gouge in the $100 set and the $100 gouge!.

Find a club and get hands on instruction from a veteran turner.

SHARP, SHARP, SHARP. However you get them there, get the edge on your tools razor sharp. It makes a giant difference. I havent completely mastered this, but between sharpening on the Wolverine jig and slow speed grinder I find a quick honing with a diamond stone is invaluable.

Lastly, dont get frustrated when you cant churn out museum quality stuff right way like John Keaton. He is an alien from Saturn and is throwing off the curve for the rest of us! :) It takes practice and more practice. Save your first of each type of turning and go back to visit them after a year. You'll see the difference in you skill level. Enjoy.

[David E Keller]

1. 3/8 or 1/2 spindle gouge, 1/2 or 5/8 skew, 3/4" or larger roughing gouge, and a 1/2 inch scraper. I'd make a parting tool out of an old jointer/planer knife, but you will need one. Benjamin's best or WC store brand tools are decent starter tools. When you're ready for a bowl gouge, I'd buy from Thompson tools. You won't go wrong getting all of them from Thompson, but it'll cost you a little more up front.

2. There's no consensus best starter book or DVD. I'd get a few of them if you can. Apparently, a lot of turning clubs have libraries that allow you to check out books and DVDs, so I'm with the others on finding someone local if you can.

3. There have been and continue to be 'ah ha' moments when I turn. Sharp tools are a necessity. Faster is generally better when it comes to lathe speed. If the wood is cracked or split, throw it away rather than have I disintegrate at 2000 rpms. Wear safey gear to protect your eyes and face and take care of your lungs. Green wood is fun to turn and great to practice on. CA glue is the turners equivalent of duct tape.

Have fun, ask questions, and post pictures.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I'll add a couple of ideas.

Tools:

A good parting tool comes in handy.

Look around locally for Robert Larson tools. I have tools from all the big names...Sorby, etc.

Robert Larson tools are Sheffield stainless and the handles are applied here in the US. They are IMHO a good bang for the buck and less in price than Sorby's, etc.

Don't get me wrong, some of my favorite tools are the big names but my Larsons are awfully good too at a lesser price.

Books. "Woodturning: A Foundation Course" by Keith Rowley. I saw it last week at Amazon for $13.57. Excellent book, well written, well illustrated and aimed directly at the beginning turner. I often have placed it at the lathe while trying learn a new technique.

[Karl Card]

1. I would have gotten a much bigger lathe. I started off with a jet 1014I and I still use it but i have found myself needing a bigger lathe.
I also found out one lathe was not enogh. So now I have two mini lathes and the third will be a larger one.

2. have not watched any dvd's.

3. If you have the slight inclination that the piece of wood is too big, and might go sailing, it probably is.

I used to spend money on pidely things... now I spend it on necessities...like turning

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Start with a quality lathe, and buy the best you can afford. What ever size you decide on. Stay away from the off names, got with Jet mini/midi/1642, Novas, Delta Midi to name a few. If you can swing it, buy the best you cannot afford, since you may want that big lathe eventually. Do a serch for lathes here and you'll find what NOT to get. I started with a Craftsman lathe, and when I "upgraded" to a Jet mini, I was astounded on what a POS the Craftsman was. I put "upgraded" in quotes because the C-man was bigger, longer and more powerful.

The Harbor Frieght tool set is pretty good for a cheapo set. It's a good starter set to try, and practice sharpening and grinding. I still use a few of mine. Get a Thompson 1/2" bowl gouge, you won't need another for a while.

+1 on Bill's 2 DVD's.

[Andy Hoyt]

Number one on the list of things to spend is time.

Tons of it, day in day out.

Spend it standing at the lathe and make cuts with no goal to produce anything other than shavings.

This will provide the best acquisition of all: experience.

[Mac Houtz]

Guys, thanks for weighing in, I am already chasing around a few of the suggestions mentioned above. As usual with SMC, this is a fountain of valuable advice, and its great to see so much support so quickly. I will keep you posted on my progress....

[Tim Rinehart]

My $0.02...
If you're going with a mini lathe:
1. 3/8" bowl gouge should take care of 90% of your needs. Here's the grab though...you really want 2 of these for separate grind profiles. One profile will be swept back for majority of work on outside and inside material removal and will double as a detail spindle gouge for some work. The other grind, is closer to looking like the grind on a roughing gouge, and it will help you make better transitions on the insides of bowls and goblet shapes.

2. A 3/4" roughing gouge, and remember, not to be used for roughing bowl blanks.

3. A 3/4" - 1" skew. You will hate this tool till you master it...then all other tools will work better from what you figured out in using it. Best to have someone show this to you one-on-one.

4. Parting tool. Variety is nice here. The typical 1/4" diamond style are good utility parting tools, but take alot of material away. I use them for thicker parting, and use the smaller 1/16" parting tools (straight) for smaller stuff and cleaner cuts.

5. A 3/4" - 1" rounded scraper. This is your friend to help clean up interiors of bowls and such till you get comfortable making clean continuous cuts with your gouges. You will need to read up or talk with someone one-on-one about positive vs negative rakes (you always want to apply these with negative rake profile to the wood to prevent catch), and burnishing to present a burr on the end, similar to a card scraper.

I highly recommend starting with a Benjamins Best kit, that usually has most of these tools in it I mentioned. I got mine from Amazon last year for about 75 bucks,...best 75 bucks I've spent. You will be happy that you used these to learn and apply different grinds, than the 100 buck single tools. I have some great turning tools, but still like the BBs fine...they just require a fresh grind a little more often. Eventually...you'll want a nicer tool, like the Thompsons. When you decide to get a 1/2" tool or bigger, after messing around a while with cheaper tools...go get yourself a 1/2" or 5/8" gouge from Thompson, you won't be disappointed from what I've read. When I wear out the cheaper gouges I'm using now...that's where I'm heading from good remarks I've heard in this forum and elsewhere.

Look around for deals on chucks, they come on sale now and then. You'll find alot of opinion on them also, good ones, cheap ones, etc. I use a Oneway stronghold (big chuck for larger lathes) and like it alot...but would upgrade to a Vicmarc if money not an object. I have a Nova G3 for a midi lathe, and like it fine, but would upgrade it to a Oneway Talon chuck if I could. I think the Nova G3 is a well respected chuck with lots of accessories, but definitely not the cheapest out there.
My only strong opinion, is to be careful with the chucks requiring two bars to tighten (vs single chuck key). I've heard several people have problem with the bars bending, and so on, and they just don't seem as convenient. That being said...someone may quote me on this and say..."i'm all wet" :p

Best advice again...get some one on one time with someone, you'll be much happier and may find that person will sell you or give you stuff to help you get started.

PS: Don't discount potential to build ALOT of your own tools you'll hear people talk about or see. Point tools (3 sided grind profile at tip, like a pyramid) can be made from a piece of 3/8" HSS round bar you can get from suppliers like WT Tool. Same with Bedan tools made from 3/8 or 1/2" HSS square bar. Alot of people, self included, make their own carbide tipped tools by purchasing tips, and applying them to handmade holders. For over a year, I used a homemade version of a Wolverine jig for grinding my bowl gouges. The list goes on and on for homemade stuff. I think the only tool that doesn't seem feasible for someone to make is a gouge. Everything else, parting tools, skews, scrapers, captured ring tools, and so on have been proven to be hand-makeable.

[Thom Sturgill]

All good recommendations so far.

The better Harbor Freight tools are good starters although, depending on which set, you may find that several get re-ground into scrapers. If not a set then I think a 3/8 spindle gouge, 1/2" bowl gouge, 3/4" skew, 3/4" roughing gouge and a parting tool or two, regardless of the type of turning. If you get into bowls or holllow forms there is a whole bunch of specialized tools and grinds and there are many sizes of spindle gouges, detail gouges, german (or european) spindle gouges, and special scrapers for beads, captured rings, etc. And don't get me started on scrapers... Eventually you will want a scroll chuck, faceplates, etc. and don't forget safety equipment.

"Woodturning: A Foundation Course" by Keith Rowley is also available as a DVD. I also like Jimmy Clewes' 'Back to Basics' DVD. Grumbine's DVDs are excellent for bowl turners and anyone harvesting wood.

[Rich Stewart]

1. Set of Benjamins Best tools.
2. Beal Buffing system. Just go ahead and get it. I was never really happy with my finishes until I got the buffing system. Get the Beal.
3. Get some chucks. Makes doing bottoms so much easier. Boxes. Finials.

Grumbine videos. Richard Raffin videos. Youtube.

"Turn fast, sand slow." Quote from Hickory.

No amount of finish will hide poor tool technique.

Search SMC for LOTS of info for newbys.

Get the Beal Buffing System.

[Tim Rinehart]

1. Set of Benjamins Best tools.
2. Beal Buffing system. Just go ahead and get it. I was never really happy with my finishes until I got the buffing system. Get the Beal.
3. Get some chucks. Makes doing bottoms so much easier. Boxes. Finials.

Grumbine videos. Richard Raffin videos. Youtube.

"Turn fast, sand slow." Quote from Hickory.

No amount of finish will hide poor tool technique.

Search SMC for LOTS of info for newbys.

Get the Beal Buffing System.

Rich is right on when it comes to Turn Fast, Sand Slow. A classic 'uh-oh' is sanding and creating so much heat it cracks the wood from drying out too quickly, and possibly other heat related reasons.
Beal system is a great finish tool. I agree, it really helps get your stuff past that last level of sanding that never seems to get all the marks out. It also allows you to leave a lighter overall finish, or to highly polish and make a finish that looks like deep glass. With the Beal...you could essentially apply some shellac or lacquer sanding sealer to anything, and just buff it out and wax it and be quite content.
The other thing Rich made me think of...is to "Use sandpaper like someone else is buying it". Don't try to get too much usage out of sandpaper, once it loses the original bite, it will only give you heartburn and worse.

[Josh Bowman]

Well, Mac, I am a rookie and here's what's working and not working for me. I'm assuming bowl turning.
1. If you were just starting turning all over again, and knew what you know now, what would your most basic tool kit include? What brand of turning tools, and which tools are the top five "core" tools? ( I am pretty sure that the ones that came with my lathe are junk)

Don't buy a "set" of tools like I did. Get a good bowl gouge, I have 2 Sorby 1/2" and 1 Thompson 3/8", wish I had a Thompson 1/2" instead of the extra Sorby. I got talked into another grind on one of the 1/2" Sorby gouges, maybe a good thing for advanced, not for me. It got reground by a local club member to match the other. I happen to like a scraper, you can live without it but it helps when my experience with the bowl gouge is lacking. You'll need something that shapes a tenon, like a skew and parting tool. Your "set tools" will work here. You have to have a fast and easy shapening method, you should do it often. I like the Tormek, because I already have one, but think the Oneway does as well. Don't underestimate the power of the tool rest. Some may disagree, but I got some great rests from a SMC member and they have improved my turnings compared to the stock clunky and rough tool rest I had. Get a good name brand chuck. Set up a good light. Get a good smock.

2. What is the best book/dvd out there for beginning techniques?

Saw Mill Creek, Richard Raffan The New Turning, Mike Mahoney Bowl Basics, Bill Grumbine Turned Bowls made Easy. All are great and each author uses different techniques so don't get confused. One of the SMC guys said: "Master one tool completely before moving to the next". I think that's good advice. You will be amazed what a 1/2" bowl gouge can do. Find a local club and fess up to being new and wanting to learn. A member will mentor you.

3. What was your #1 easily avoidable "uh-oh" moment when you were new to turning? What are the major pitfalls to be aware of and watch for?

Watch where the tip of tool is at all times, I have been guilty of setting it down, but touching the spinning wood.....that's a shocker.
Read: https://www.lylejamieson.com/tools/documents/AAWArticle-FearFactor-Winter06.pdf

After posting a picture of my first bowl some months ago that I turned from glued up stock, that was way too steap and way to deep. The folks here made the above suggestions. I've followed them and have found that my experience has been a good and safe one. I'm still learning though........and buying more stuff:D Welcome to the Vortex!

[Don Geiger]

The best money I spent early on was to go to Arrowmont School for a week with David Ellsworth. If I would have gone even earlier I would have saved money on tools and would not have had time to develop bad habits.

There are numerous schools and instructors to choose from.

I suggest a week long class at one of the schools that use professional instructors rather than one of the 1/2 day or full day classes offered at one of the woodworking supply stores.

I've been to 16 week long classes in the past 11 years.


Don Geiger

[William Hutchinson]

Mac-

I’m in a similar circumstance as yourself as my interests shifted to turning to augment furniture building. Researching equipment, tools, design and narrowing my intended utilization was an interesting process. As such I will offer my experiences and hopefully some insight for your consideration.

First and foremost, once you start spinning timber you will quickly become hypnotically addicted and your world will narrow down to turning and acquiring wood. Snatching a piece of figured firewood out of the shivering hands of the homeless will not cause one minute loss of sleep.

Two, tools are like golf clubs; just cause you have a pro set doesn’t equate to playing like one. Just saying that gaining skills is initially more important than any particular cutting implement. A good basic set is all you will need and when you can max out the full capability of those tools, then you will know what you need and more importantly- why.

Third is knowledge. Design, proportion and purposeful executions are the hallmark of achieving successful works. This will be an ongoing process and continual education. Training your eye, perfecting your skills and unleashing your creativity are what is captivating with turning. That and the immediate gratification of seeing a work emerge almost instantaneous from a block of medium.

Forth, and I know that you have heard this before, as I have, buy the best equipment as you can afford. Quality equipment, new or used, will allow you to become better and not suffer tooling obstacles that hinder your work. Get a lathe that will give you the most options and allow you to grow as your skills increase.

Fifth, there is something of a herd mentality that happens with forums and permeates among groups of like minded folks. This phenomenon is not necessarily a bad thing but it’s the unspoken structure that the group give tacit support. Design, proportion and embellishments have accepted parameters and some folks set these in stone. Classical shapes have solid basis for survival over the epoch and throughout different cultures. For the truly creative to reach to the nether regions of the art, don’t be discouraged when you bump heads.

Sixth, the vortex is a real thing and by the time you fully realize what a powerful influence it is, it’s too late and all the above is of little value. Good luck with your quest.:D