Chainsaw recommendation

[Brian Kent]

I am looking for a chainsaw recommendation. I have not found the past threads that would probably answer my questions.

I am a barely experienced beginner, having gone through a couple of electric chainsaw-shaped objects that were the cheapest I could find after a storm.

Lots of oleander stands to cut, with clusters of 3" trunks.

The biggest project is a couple of long branches 8-9" in diameter that I want to remove to keep a big tree from tipping later on. Once it is down, I'll cut up for firewood.

Thanks.

Brian

[David Helm]

I've used a number of brands over the years including Homelite and Husqvarna. I find that, for my purposes, the best chain saw I've ever had was and is a Stihl. Hope this helps.

[Ed Labadie]

Stihl, Husky or Jonsered.
The Huskys & J-reds are the same saws with cosmetic & ergonomic differences.
Buy it from a servicing dealer, not a big box store. A good dealer will help you size the saw correctly and get one to fit your price range.

Be sure to budget some $$ for a good helmet system and chaps.

Ed

[Mitchell Garnett]

I don't remember the model number but I've been very happy with my 18" Stihl. I use it for much the same purpose as you describe.

While I know I should maintain it better, I've never prepared it for the off-season yet it still starts quickly with fresh fuel come spring. I've had it for about 8 years now.

For very occasional use for small branches, I've also got an inexpensive battery powered B&D that works okay. I use it when I've got a couple of branches to prune that I missed when I went around with the gas operated saw.

Mitch

[Steve Friedman]

Brian, it's amazing, but I was just about to post the same question, just wasn't sure which forum it belonged in. But I am not sure if I can get a single chainsaw that will do everything I want:

1. I want it to be big enough to cut lots of firewood, since my son heats his home with wood.
2. I want it to be small (light) enough to use for cutting up branches that are too thick to cut with a lopper.
3. I want to be able to fit a carving bar in it to try some chainsaw carving.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve

[Brian Kent]

I've been working outside just now. I tried a bow saw on the oleanders. It worked better just to tip them over and stand on the trunks. They break off below dirt level. That is really dead!

[Greg Portland]

1. I want it to be big enough to cut lots of firewood, since my son heats his home with wood.
2. I want it to be small (light) enough to use for cutting up branches that are too thick to cut with a lopper.
3. I want to be able to fit a carving bar in it to try some chainsaw carving.IMO it sounds like you'll want 2-3 saws. Growing up my family heated with wood. We had a commercial duty Stihl (there -are- different Stihl levels of quality!) with a 32" bar (similar to the current MS460 magnum model). This allowed us to fall the various large oaks around our property (18-24" @ the base). IMO you are better off cutting down a few big trees and using a splitter versus cutting up a bunch of 6-8" trees. You'll want good sized chunks that will burn overnight, not a bunch of small limbs that will burn down in 2-3 hours.

#2 sounds like an arborist saw (lightweight and compact); the motor head -might- also work for carving with a different bar and chain combo. Talk to a real chainsaw dealer, they'll be able to tell you what bars can work on which motor heads and also what chains are recommended for the applications you're considering.

[Dave Lehnert]

I have a Stihl MS180. It is a great chainsaw around the house. Stihl you buy from a dealer gassed and ready to go. Around $200
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS180CB.html
I would not use it to cut firewood every season to heat my home. That would put you into a Farm Boss.
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/MS180CB.gif

[Bill Rogers]

Several years back I went to a "good" rental center to gather some information about chain saws. They said that they could buy any brands or chainsaws that they wanted to but that they would only buy Stihl or Husqvarna.

Bill

[Stephen Cherry]

I've got a Stihl that has worked for me, but from the sound of it, you may consider using a sawzall with an appropriate blade. Especially if you already have one. No gas to go bad, and they are very reliable. I just looked on the internet, and they even have a 12" pruning blade.

Just a thought.

[Greg Portland]

you may consider using a sawzall with an appropriate blade.I have done this in the past and it works provided that the branch is not going to wobble around on you (i.e. sizable tree trunk or branch and you're pruning in against the tree).

[Ryan Hellmer]

While I too am a stihl guy at heart (my dad has 4) I got a 42cc craftsman a few years ago from a guy that got it for Christmas and was afraid to use it (still new in the box). Anywho, that little saw hase been a real performer. I've cut down 3 oak trees (24"+ diameter), 5 hackberry trees, a couple smaller silver maple and a big cedar with that saw and it starts every time, runs great and has been very serviceable.

Again, the sawsall is not a bad choice either, but for $150 (vs the 300++ on a stihl) you'd get a good saw and decent parts support. Stihl saws are super reliable but will get a bit finicky on you if you don't use them regularly or have old gas or... My c'man is just loose enough that it doesn't care, summer, winter, fresh gas, old gas, it starts and cuts things up. BTW don't buy chains from sears, get Oregon or another comparable brand.

Ryan

[James Evans]

having family and friends in the logging industry, and enjoying a little of that also. stick with one of these: jonsred, Stihl, or Husqvarna. they make one in everysize.

[Joe Mioux]

I have had a .023 Stihl (which I believe is now designated 230) for twenty years.

Likes: it works, it isn't too heavy, it isn't too small. ( I have cut 26-30ish" diameter tree trunks with it. The bar is a 16 inch bar.

Dislikes: sometimes I wish I had a longer bar, but that isn't possible/recommended with this size engine, etc. However, the times I need a longer bar is very rare.

If I were choosing a saw now, i would definitely consider the weight. I don't really like handling a heavy saw for long periods of time.

hth

joe

[David Helm]

+1 on what Ryan said about bars and chains. Oregon chains and bars are the best. My Stihl is an 024. I've had it for 20 years and it has never ever been a problem. Sometimes it's months between uses but it always starts and runs well.

[Homer Faucett]

If you read up on arborist or logging sites, you'll find that there are four brands that get recommended, and two that are most heartily recommended: Husqvarna, Stihl, Jonesred, and Husky. Husqvarna and Stihl get the most recommendations, probably due to dealer representation. From neutral parties, I've heard it said that you can't go wrong with either the Husqvarna or Stihl, and that you're better off just buying the one with the closest dealership that will service you well.

I've used the comparable Husqvarna and Stihl consumer models with the 16" bar, and felt that the Husqvarna was not significantly, but appreciably, stronger and faster cutting, so I replaced my 18" Poulan with the Husqvarna when I found it on sale at Tractor Supply. A 3 year no questions asked replacement warranty cost me $30. I also picked up the 20" 455 Husqvarna Rancher to cut up the 33" maple trunks from this spring's carnage. The extra power from a bigger saw and longer bar make a huge difference. While you can cut a 30" trunk with a 16" bar, it took me close to 25 minutes. With the 455, it took less than 5 minutes.

[Don Whitten]

Both of my saws are Husqvarna's a 142 which is now there 235 model and the 455 Rancher, both are awesome saws. I've never had any problems with Husqvarna items so I pretty much own all there stuff, backpack blower, trimmer etc.

[Steve Friedman]

I've got a Stihl that has worked for me, but from the sound of it, you may consider using a sawzall with an appropriate blade. Especially if you already have one. No gas to go bad, and they are very reliable. I just looked on the internet, and they even have a 12" pruning blade.

Just a thought.

Thanks! I have an 18V Bosch reciprocating saw and have never even thought of using it for pruning limbs that don't really need a chainsaw. The reason is that I did use it to cut some thick roots that were in the way while I was digging a trench last fall and it took me days to clean off all the mud that got into the saw. I guess I never thought of using it for tree work again, but it is a great solution - as long as you keep it out of the mud!

Steve

[Steve Friedman]

We had a commercial duty Stihl (there -are- different Stihl levels of quality!)

Greg, thanks.

I am so confused by some of the terminology. I have tried to compare the pro and mid-range Stihl and Husqvarnas, but can't seem to get a good answer as to why I would want to spend the extra money for a "pro" saw.

I am looking at something with a 55-60 cc motor and find that the Pro version of the Stihl or Husvarana are in the mid-$600 range, but the mid-range version of the same saw is at least $150 cheaper. Is there something about the pro versions that justifies the extra money?

Thanks again.

[Steve Sharp]

Happy with my 2 Huskys. Had them for about 5 yrs. Do recommend the best hearing protection you can get. Chain saws helped mess up my hearing - among other things.....

[Tony De Masi]

I have two Stihls. The Farm Boss and the MS180. Each have their own uses, for me anyway. For cutting down trees and then cutting into logs for turning I use the Farm Boss. For the smaller jobs I use the MS180. The Farm Boss weighs in at about 13lbs., which doesn't sound like much, but after a time it does get heavy.

Tony

[Jim Chan]

+1 for stihl. A couple months ago I bought a Stihl 660 magnum with a 36" bar for milling. Man, that things flies! Couldn't be happier. I've milled 30" walnut with it without any problems. Keep that chain sharp, you'll love it.

Another alternative is bailey's is having a sale on their solo saws. Solo is made in germany as well, and it looks like some pretty good deals. I've never used one but was thinking about buying a 50-70cc model for trimming branches and such. Good luck.

[Dave Verstraete]

A BLACK & DECKER 18V Cordless Alligator Lopper Model # NLP1800B works well for trimming the branches

[jim hedgpeth]

+ 1 for the Huskey.
I have a 16" Huskey for small every day stuff, works great, pretty aggressive for a small saw.
I also have a little 16" homelite that is down at the moment for unknown reasons. Got to fix it one of these days.

My "big" saw is an OLD Homelite C71 w/32"bar. It only comes out when "size matters" because it is a beast. Wears you down fast, but it starts first or second pull every time. It is a lower rpm saw and always sounds bored after listening to the newer high rpm saws all day. Sure cuts good though.
158268
My Homelites. Isn't the little one cute.;)

Jim

[Roger Benton]

If you read up on arborist or logging sites, you'll find that there are four brands that get recommended, and two that are most heartily recommended: Husqvarna, Stihl, Jonesred, and Husky. Husqvarna and Stihl get the most recommendations, probably due to dealer representation.

actually, husky and husqvarna are the same thing, husky is a nickname.

and, husqvarna makes jonsered saws, cosmetic differences only.

so it's stihl and husky for the win. both companies make saws that will last a lifetime, and both have devout fans so it's really a toss up.

like others have said, buy from a dealer, not a box. they can service, sharpen, order parts, and they will actually know something about the products they sell.

a saw with a 20" bar and around 50cc's will easily handle the work you have planned and be able to handle a lot more. a smaller saw could do it too, but i personally would rather use a slightly heavier saw for 10 minutes than a slightly lighter saw for 30 minutes, plus you will be ready for larger tasks should the need arise.

do keep in mind that face/ear protection, decent chaps and gloves will run close to $100.

also, if you do the research and decide what model(s) you like/need, check ebay. there are TONS of saws for going for good prices but you need to know what you want. i recently won a large milling saw for way less than half the new cost, and it runs flawlessly (gloat!).

[Harlan Coverdale]

Greg, thanks.

I am so confused by some of the terminology. I have tried to compare the pro and mid-range Stihl and Husqvarnas, but can't seem to get a good answer as to why I would want to spend the extra money for a "pro" saw.

I am looking at something with a 55-60 cc motor and find that the Pro version of the Stihl or Husvarana are in the mid-$600 range, but the mid-range version of the same saw is at least $150 cheaper. Is there something about the pro versions that justifies the extra money?

Thanks again.

In general, the pro lines have more durable engine parts, and are often a bit lighter when comparing equal machines with equal horse power. They're designed to run all day every day. I wanted something that could power a 24" bar, but I'm not a full time user, so I ended up going with the biggest of the of the mid level Stihls, the MS390. Love it. I couldn't justify the extra cost of the pro model in that size range, since I'm not using the saw every day. I probably use it less than once month, so I figure it should still last longer than I do. Even the mid-level machines are very well built.

[Brian Kent]

I found a guy taking down a neighbor's trees and had him take a look at our yard. Because of the extreme weight of the main branch to be removed, I think I'll have that done professionally, along with a solid round of getting our trees into the right shape. They will cut and stack it all up for firewood.

That leaves me with buying a tool for the dead oleander clusters, each with dozens of 2"-3" trunks. I also need it to do future trimming and pruning. I can picture using a medium duty $400 chainsaw (good local Stihl dealer) or a 12-15 Amp Milwaukee Sawzall with pruning blades.

I am weighing the convenience of not using a 100' electric cord with the higher chainsaw cost. Either way looks good and you folks have given some great advice.

[Cody Colston]

Brian,

I had a Husquvarna 55 Rancher that was a very good saw, if a bit hard to start. Unfortunately, it got stolen out of my son's pickup.

I wanted to replace it with a Stihl Farm Boss but when I got to the dealer's, I decided on the Stihl MS 250 CBE. It's listed as an occassional use saw but it's 3.0 hp, 18" bar, soft start, toolless chain adjustment and light enough to use without getting fatigued.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS250CBE.html

I use a chainsaw for occassional tree felling and trimming around the house and also for harvesting turning blanks when the opportunity arises. I think the 250 will more than meet my needs and, from what you've written, yours too.

I also think you will be happy with any of the saws mentioned so far but wanted to give you some personal experience with another option.

[Jim Heffner]

I read the other people's recommendations, and it was as expected that most would say Stihl or Husky....they are good saws but I still like my ECHO CS306!
I inhereted two Stihl saws when my dad died back in '94. He always had trouble starting those saws even when brand new, and they have been a bear ever since. I just plain and simply got tired of fighting them to start up myself, got irritated went and bought an Echo and couldn't be happier! It starts on the second or third pull every time without fail and never lets me down. I would rather spend the time cutting wood than spend the time
working on a saw that doesn't want to run.

[Jim Becker]

Buy quality...stay away from "homeowner" brands/models at the 'borg. Stihl, Husqi, etc., is what you want for long lasting use and easier starts. I personally own and use a Stihl .029 Farm Boss...it replaced my "mistake" chainsaw purchase that died after only one tree of cutting...so it would have been less money to buy from the start.

[Brian Kent]

I'm curious why the Stihl 280 is $499 and the 290 is $349?

[James Baker SD]

I have a Bosch battery powered reciprocating saw that looks similar to the sawzall. Problem with using it on oleanders (I am in San Diego and 3/4 of them died this year) is that unless you really hold it tight against the branch, front blade support touching branch, the teeth catch and the saw just shakes the branch back and forth. I also have an electric chain saw, agree that the cord in a definite pain, but it cuts much better as the cutting teeth are always moving in the same direction.

James

[Greg Portland]

I have tried to compare the pro and mid-range Stihl and Husqvarnas, but can't seem to get a good answer as to why I would want to spend the extra money for a "pro" saw.Steve -> Weight and parts durability (hours between engine servicing) are the two major differences. The main thing I wanted to point out to you is that for heating a home with wood you will be cutting down a lot of trees. We only used wood when it got really cold and still we'd burn through a couple of cords each season. Plan on spending 3-4 full days of sawing if you are not a pro (this is not counting splitting). You will need to balance the speed of the cut (larger engine) with the weight of the saw. In other words, you can get the job done faster by carrying around a heavier machine... until the machine gets too heavy for you to carry around :). Your local dealer will be able to provide the best feedback given the type of wood you'll be cutting, your fitness level, + any local conditions (elevation, temperature?, etc.). They can also provide some tips with your other requirements (chainsaw carving, etc.).

Brian -> pretty much any saw is going to work for your needs. I would get one of the smaller Stihls or Huskys and a good chain. That should be all you'll need to cut down 2-3" thick trunks.

[Thomas S Stockton]

The difference in price is because the 280 is a pro saw. Generally it means the entire case is metal and has more advanced anti-vibe system along with being lighter and probably more power.
I have a 039 and an ms250 both are nice saws the 039 is now sold as the 390 and is a larger version of the 290, we cut probably 6 or 7 cords of firewood with this saw every year and it has been fairly reliable the only problems have been due to fuel destroying gas lines and a carb diaphragm once. The ms250 is really nice for smaller stuff and is nice and light. I have the no frills version which I prefer.
Your dealer makes all the difference in the world, we had a fuel problem and took it to one who couldn't get it to work well, after a couple of trips back I took it to another who had it running great in no time.
Tom

[Loren Hedahl]

I have an old 041 Stihl that is more than 30 years old. We heated with wood using about 4 - 5 cords a year until the past few years where we supplement with electric at times. I also have a small 10 year old Husky for limbing and small cutting.

Both have been excellent. The Stihl is old enough that there isn't much part support, so it may soon go on Craig's list for parts, however it starts quickly and cuts powerfully. The Husky spins up faster and is more powerful for its size, but the newer Stihls are too.

What would I replace the Stihl with? Probably another Stihl, although there is good dealer support locally for Huskvarna, Echo and Stihl. So when the time comes, I'll look at 'em all and go from there.

I agree entirely that buying from a local dealer is the best, even it if costs a few bucks more. The dealer knows his competition and if he's at a slight price disadvantage will often throw in some oil, or something to make up some of the difference.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Here's what I used on some dead - and a few live hedges - about the same 3" diameter:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-capacity-cable-puller-30131.html

I wrapped a logging chain around the base of a tree and hooked the come along to it.
Then I just bunched up a mess of the hedges by wrapping the come along cable around them and just started jacking the handle.

Not a whole lot of finesse - but - it got the job done a lot quicker and safer and easier than the electric chain saw.

[Brian Brightwell]

In addition to a saw you will need files for sharpening and some PPE. Hardhat, face shield, ear protection,steel toe shoes and safety chaps.
Saws are kind of a hobby with me and for a novice a good dealer or a mentor will make the learning process a lot less painful.
Stihl and Husky make good pro saws. However, in small inexpensive saws Shindiawa, Dolmar or Makita, and Redmax beat the home owner Stilhs and Huskys with better build quilty.
Shindiawa has a great reputation for reliability and long life. I would stay away from the Stilhs and Huskys with plastic cases and clam shell design.

[Cliff Holmes]

Lots of great advice here. Let me throw in one other recommendation: Learn to use it safely. I mean really, really learn, preferably from someone who know what they're doing. Chain saw safety is more than wearing protective gear, chain saws send more people to the ER than any other power tool. When it goes bad, it goes real bad real fast.

[Ryan Baker]

Brian, it's amazing, but I was just about to post the same question, just wasn't sure which forum it belonged in. But I am not sure if I can get a single chainsaw that will do everything I want:

1. I want it to be big enough to cut lots of firewood, since my son heats his home with wood.
2. I want it to be small (light) enough to use for cutting up branches that are too thick to cut with a lopper.
3. I want to be able to fit a carving bar in it to try some chainsaw carving.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve

#3 is going to need a second saw. You want pretty much the smallest (size and weight) saw you can find for carving -- way too small for your other needs. Also keep in mind that it isn't just a bar change. You will need to run 1/4 pitch chain, which also requires a drive sprocket change (and maybe some other changes depending on the saw model). It's not the kind of thing that you swap out the same way you swap normal chains/bars. Also, when you choose a saw to use with a carving bar, make sure the carving package is available for that saw before you buy it, because they are not available for all small saws(it's mostly about whether the 1/4 pitch sprocket is available).

[Dave Lewis]

I also have a Stihl Farmboss bought ~ 6 years ago and last summer bought the wife a Mini-Boss for her birthday since she was complaining about the FarmBoss' weight. We also have a Stihl weed whipper that accepts a steel star-shaped blade for raspberries.

(She really does like the Mini-boss for cutting down saplings).

[Brian Kent]

I paid for professionals to take down the big limbs and trees. It was well worth it.

I still have the huge stands of dead oleanders to clear. About 9 stands up to 30' high and 6' diameter at the base. (Clusters of dozens of 3-4" diameter trunks) A couple of friends loaned me some cheap McCulloch electric chain saws. They cut fine, but in the last 3 days I have spent much more time servicing the saws than cutting. The chains come off on a regular basis.

In your experiences with top brand chain saws, how much time is spent cutting vs. chain-replacement?

[Darl Bundren]

If the chain is tensioned correctly, it should not come off.

Also, if the saw is for occasional use, you can rent one from Home Depot.

Also, if you want to get lots of info in one spot, check out http://www.arboristsite.com/

They have a homeowner help forum where folks have asked questions similar to yours, and farther down the page, there's the Chainsaw forum in the Equipment section.

Some of the Dolmar saws are highly regarded there, but around here I can't get dealer support.

I have a Husqvarna 359 that I like, but it is a pretty big saw for just using around the yard.

[Ed Labadie]

[QUOTE=
In your experiences with top brand chain saws, how much time is spent cutting vs. chain-replacement?[/QUOTE]

In clean wood, 2-3 tanks of fuel before I even touch up the chain with a file. Check the chain tension at fill-up, 2 minutes at the most to adjust it, if needed.
Swapping a chain in the woods, not long, maybe 5 minutes at most, I'll usually fill the saw if I'm swapping chains. Worst part is making sure the oil hole is clear when I forgot my cheater glasses.

Ed

[Mike Harrison]

I'm probably the 30th buy to recommend Stihl, Husky. My first saw was a Stihl 026, which was just shy of 20 years old when my SIL crushed it, and almost himself as well with a fair size tree 3 or 4 years ago. He made sure I received a New 260 replacement saw when he told me about his adventure. Sad to see the old one go, but glad the SIL was OK.

In those almost 20 years I just ran it out of gas in the fall, and filled it the following summer. I disassembled the carb once at about 9 or 10 years and cleaned, That was it for maintenance aside from cleaning. Couldn't ask for a better saw.

Fired up the "new" one yesterday for the first time this year to cut up a couple downed trees from the last storm here a week ago.

[rick carpenter]

Go big, or go home....

[Bryan Rocker]

When I used to cut and sell fire wood we used a pair of Homelite C5's. They were work horses. At least one put 20+ stiches in my knee.....That was not quite 30 years ago. When I bought a couple of acres in Oklahoma I bought a Stihl MS290. It is also a work horse. I haven't found much it won't do. However for small stuff I wish I had a smaller saw.......

[Karl Card]

I too am glad this subject came up. I am about ready to buy a chainsaw but for mainly just to have one around due to storms, people needing me to take there trees for free after a storm and the such. Last year I couold of had 2 huge maple trees all to myself and did not have a way to cut it at all. Noone had a chain saw big enough to cut it that I knew and he wanted it gone asap. Id like to have something around 18" I think.

[Aaron Hancock]

http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9 these boys will point you in the right direction.

Aaron

[Laurie Brown]

I wanted a good chain saw after using a Craftsman that started leaking fluids out of everywhere and being told that's normal. I bought a Stihl, and it's the greatest! I got one with easy-start which was being marketed as easier to use for women, as the old saw starting it was a nightmare. As someone else mentioned, it came gassed up and ready to use, and the dealer even spent some time in the parking lot with me showing me how to start and use it and giving me maintenance tips.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I wanted a good chain saw after using a Craftsman that started leaking fluids out of everywhere and being told that's normal.


That cracks me up that someone would actually tell you that it's normal for anything to leak fluids out....

I figured I'd chime in, due to Laurie's comment. I have a Stihl Farm Boss and the aforementioned leaky Crapsman. They have thier places. The Stihl can take anything I can do. BUT it is heavy and big. The leaky Crapsman is a top handle, and very handy for the small stuff. Still running, barely. I'm looking to buy the Stihl top handle, runs around 300 bucks. Hmmm. Twice as much as a comparable Echo/Homelite/Poulan??? I think it's worth it after getting the Farm Boss. Oh, IMO the Crapsman should not be leaking.....

[Laurie Brown]

Well, maybe it's normal for a *Crapsman*.... ;)

[Nick Clayton]

Hi Brian,

I don't know if you've purchased a saw yet but here is what my experience has been. The first saw I bought was a Stihl MS250 w/16 inch bar and I loved it. It did everything I asked it to (cutting for fire wood taking down 6"-10" trees, limbing on the ground) and I never had any problems. One fall the tree company that deliveres logs to me for the wood stove dropped off some white oak that went up as far as 37" in diameter. I cut as much as I could until I realized that with that much cutting the saw wasn't up to it. I trotted back to my dealer and picked up a MS 362 with 18 and 25" bars and it has served me well for 2 seasons. It is also a totally different saw from my MS 250. It has great vibration reduction and rev's higher the the 250.

I sold the MS 250 to fund the new saw. My dealer sells both Stihl and Husqvarna and has always steered me towards Stihl. My closest Dolmar dealer is almost 30 miles away, but I would have seriously considered them had there been a dealer nearby.

My point is, you will get opinions that you must have a professional saw to get quality and in my small amount of experience that hasn't been true. The homeowner MS250 did its job fine with no problems as is the professional 362. I do like the 362 better, but thats because it cuts faster and can handle a wider range of wood for me. Just don't think you need to buy a hot rodded MS 660 to suit your application. Check out this link and be careful they are unforgiving when they bite!http://wayneofthewoods.com/chainsawreviews.htm

[Keith Harrell]

Have both and always go for my Stihl 20" bar now. I like my husky 18" but it's seems to much harder to start or I'm getting weaker. The Stihl 20" is heavy and is not a trim saw. I got the Stihl 20" when I got my lathe and found out it had to be fed. I'm going to reduce the bar on the husky to 16" for tree clean up now.