Question re: Wood acclimation for new cabinet doors

[Michael L. Martin]

I'm making some replacement cabinet doors starting tomorrow, using red oak (big box store oak wrapped in plastic) purchased by the customer. My question is do I store it overnight in the garage/shop, which is not climate controlled, or do I keep it in the house in the a/c until tomorrow when I'm ready to start milling my pieces? We're experiencing some hot days with high humidity here in Illinois, which will be the conditions in the garage/shop. Or...... does it make any difference where I store it?

Thank you gents.

Michael

[Mike Zilis]

Mike,

Recent blog articles from Popular Woodworking and Rob Bois indicate that wood acclimation is a myth. They say that the "secret" to avoid warping is to ensure that you remove equal amounts of material from each side while dimensioning.

I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post links to the aforementioned websites, but I could PM you links if you're interested.

Mike

[Michael L. Martin]

Mike,

Recent blog articles from Popular Woodworking and Rob Bois indicate that wood acclimation is a myth.

Mike

I would like to read those when you get time to send them. Wood acclimation has talked about for years...... now it's not necessary?

Thanks for the response Mike.

Michael

[Matthew Hills]

Glen Huey:

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Buck+The+Establishment+Wood+Acclimation.aspx

Not sure how I'd transfer it to stock sold at HD.

[Mike Zilis]

...and here's the follow up blog post with video from Rob Bois:

http://theboisshop.blogspot.com/2010/08/flat-truth-about-milling-stock.html


Mike

[Aaron Hastings]

Those are for properly dried lumber correct?

[Stuart Gardner]

I'd let it rest a few days either place outside of the plastic. The most important thing is to mill the lumber (joint/plane/rip) to within 1/8 inch or so of final dimensions, then let that rest a day or two and mill to final dimensions. What I've found is the release of internal stresses is the most important thing. Especially ripping. Of course, the longer the pieces are, the more movement you're going to get.

[Michael L. Martin]

Thanks for the help. Unfortunately, time restraints plus a few other factors are working against me. Not the approach I wanted to use for the doors, but I'll forge ahead and do the best I can.

Thanks again.

Michael

[joe milana]

My experience with BORG hardwood is: case hardening, LOADED with internal stress, surface checks after your project is finished, unwrap it, put it on the shelf, watch it warp, twist, bow, etc. I hate to be negative, just me experience. Find a reputable supplier and stay away from that borg garbage. I would also give your customer fair warning. Oh, and did I mention those annoying little stickers they sometimes put on the wood that are a pain to remove and show back up in your finish?

[Michael L. Martin]

Thanks Joe. The problems you mention are some of my concerns too. But they insisted on supplying the material, so I guess we'll see the results firsthand. Just makes it harder on the person making the doors, and I for one surely don't need the added headaches.;)

[Paul Johnstone]

My experience with BORG hardwood is: case hardening, LOADED with internal stress, surface checks after your project is finished, unwrap it, put it on the shelf, watch it warp, twist, bow, etc. I hate to be negative, just me experience. Find a reputable supplier and stay away from that borg garbage. I would also give your customer fair warning. Oh, and did I mention those annoying little stickers they sometimes put on the wood that are a pain to remove and show back up in your finish?

Yea, but the customer probably had a coupon for Home Depot and "saved" $10 :)