Grizzly G1023rl review

[keith micinski]

Well, I have ran into a few snags unfortunately. The first being the two throat inserts provided by Grizzly are warped. One is so bad it is unusable the other one is a lot closer but still almost unusable. The Second thing being my top is also warped around the back of the throat plate area. I don't have a feeler gauge at home so I cant judge how far out is but as you can see in the pictures it seems enough to warrant concern on my part. The Delta Contractor saw that this saw is replacing is basically perfectly flat from one wing end to the other. I guess I am going to get to find out about the Great Grizzly customer service a little sooner then I wanted to. Other then these two issues so far everything else seems to be working fine. I haven't gotten to trying to align everything yet though because I don't want to waste my time if the top really is to far out.

[george wilson]

Typing paper is about .005" thick. Aluminum foil is .002" thick-the common type,not the commercial type. A shiny surface makes the gap seem twice as thick as it really is. Try the suggested shims and see how bad it really is.

[keith micinski]

So I got 6 sheets of foil underneath the gap. That's .012 or there abbots if the foil size is pretty close to your .002 measurement. It does seem like the back left corner if you are standing in front of the saw is dropping off. I'll try shimming it and see.

[Richard Wagner]

So I got 6 sheets of foil underneath the gap. That's .012 or there abbots if the foil size is pretty close to your .002 measurement. It does seem like the back left corner if you are standing in front of the saw is dropping off. I'll try shimming it and see. There is no way that I would be shimming the table of a new table saw to get it flat. No Way!

[Van Huskey]

There is no way that I would be shimming the table of a new table saw to get it flat. No Way!

Agreed, and .012 "ain't even close". Hope this doesn't become a trend as a lot of folks are interested in that saw, I am sure Grizzly will get you taken care of, but unfortunately with the expense of your time and that "new car feel". Keep us informed.

[keith micinski]

Well, after being frustrated and walking out of the shop for a little while I shimmed it up and it ended up being what I would consider close enough. I am still going to call Grizzly tomorrow because I ended up using a washer and a home made pop can shim to get it right. One problem I see with this is I will now have to shim the trunion up this much because when I tilt it to 45 I am guessing the table is now going to be skewed out the same amount. I aligned everything up with the blade at 90 but didn't want to try aligning the 45 tonight because I knew I would get frustrated and end up being up all night messing with it and I have to go to work at 4:00 in the morning.The problem is I am pretty sure that the problem is with the cabinet itself and not the top.The only way to find out though is to completely remove the top from the cabinet and then check it for straightness. I am a little worried about having the top shimmed up the way it is because there is nothing supporting it all along the back side and I wonder if in 10 years this will lead to the table sagging in the back. I am afraid that if it is the cabinet I am going to have to ship the whole damn saw back and who knows when I will get another one. Not to mention all of the hours of work I have into getting this one picked up and unloaded and setup. I can't get over how bad the throat insert is though. In one inch it is out almost an 8th of an inch. To Grizzly's credit the saw came with the mitre slot aligned 1 thousandth out from front to back which I left because I have found that I like the blade out a few thou anyway from front to back on my other saw. I couldn't believe how long it took me to get the Riving knife set right though. I have never set one up before but I finally got it. I got my Unifence all setup and made a few cuts and I loved it.

[keith micinski]

Here are a few pic's. I haven't had time to get my new Dust collection set up But it looks like the under blade collector is going to work well considering just the blade threw that much of the dust out. The riving knife quick release is a little hard to use also but I don't really know how they coud have made it any different since I have never even seen another one before.

[Jim O'Dell]

Keith, I'm not sure there is much on the cabinet that supports the tip anyway. I took the top off my 691 to enlarge the holes in the cabinet so I could get the blade aligned to the miter slot. The lip is only about 1/2" wide. The ribs in the underside of the top is what supports it properly. If you are concerned about it, once you get things aligned up, maybe you could find some wedges that are thin enough to fit in to support along the length at different spots. It really wasn't as big of a deal to take the top off as I thought it would be. I was very leery of doing it. I wouldn't give it a second thought now. It would allow you to check the cabinet for square...maybe even tweak it if need be. Then try the top again. Could be that the saw was handled a little roughly in transit to you and twisted the cabinet slightly, even if the shipping crate wasn't damaged.
Not that you shouldn't call Grizzly. They will want to know everything about this saw since it is new.
Ever figure out what the little opening behind the insert is for? I'm really curious about that. Jim.

[keith micinski]

I was going to take that plate off and look but I was so frustrated I just wanted to call it a night. It almost has to be for some sort of future use or something because the riving knife and all moving parts of the trunion are in other spots.

[Paul McGaha]

Keith,

Just my opinion but I dont know that I would have done anything with that saw past your first set of photos and comments other than contact Grizzly. I think what you did was far past normal assembly of a new piece of machinery. Grizzly does have a great name in customer service, If you are now satisfied with the saw I still hope they compensate you in some way for what you did.

PHM

[Harold Burrell]

Keith,

Just my opinion but I dont know that I would have done anything with that saw past your first set of photos and comments other than contact Grizzly. I think what you did was far past normal assembly of a new piece of machinery. Grizzly does have a great name in customer service, If you are now satisfied with the saw I still hope they compensate you in some way for what you did.

PHM

Agreed....

[keith micinski]

I did consider just leaving it but like I said I am worried that it is the cabinet and not the top itself. I want to be able to call Grizzly and actually know what problem needs to be addressed.

[Cary Falk]

That's surely disappointing to hear about you problems. I have one on the way and am wondering if I will have the same problems. I am confidnet that Grizzly will make it right. It is one of the reasons I went with Grizzly.

[keith micinski]

Well Grizzly told me to unbolt the table and let it relax for a few days. I am pretty sure that is going to be a waste of time but I am going to give it a try since I don't really need the saw right away anyway. They are tellinnme that 15 to 20 thousandths is acceptable which has to be a mistake because if my gap was only 12 then 20 would be an absolute joke.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Keith,

This has come up in several other threads inivolving other manufacturers.

I am pretty sure the other manufacturers use 0.015" for the specifications too.

[Garth Thompson]

I do know that Delta in the past said their top spec was .015

Garth

[Joe Hathcoat]

I disagree that .012 is not close. My question is what is the Starrett spec for edge straightness of their steel rules. If your going to measure in thousandths of an inch you have make sure your reference is straight and flat.

[keith micinski]

The problem with my straight edge not being straight doesn't really come up because the rest of the top is flat with the rule so one way or another the top is out. I did a little more research and found out that it is .015 from one edge to another. That does seem reasonable. My table is out almost .015 in a 4 inch. That transfers out to being a lot more over a 27 inch span on the other end of that.

[Van Huskey]

My table is out almost .015 in a 4 inch. That transfers out to being a lot more over a 27 inch span on the other end of that.


EXACTLY, you can clearly see the dip is over a very short area in your pics, if it was over the entire top thats certainly a much more tolerable situation. Whether it meats a .015" spec depends on how you interpret that spec.

[keith micinski]

So I just spent all night shimming and tweaking and I got the saw basically flat.I had to take the top completely off and shim up the trunnion a little and then re-shim the table and align the mitre slot with the blade again. I still was only able to get the blade at 45 degrees to align with the mitre slot to bout 7 thousandths out front to back. I would love for it to be perfect but I can live with that. I also made my own zero clearance insert out of half inch plywood.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I have a G0691 and the inserts are quite poor. Although I don't think mine is as bad as yours... I quickly made ZCI's anyway.

As for the table: it is surprising to me that you can flatten the table by applying shims underneath. Is the cast iron really that flexible?!?

[keith micinski]

Believe it or not it really is. I think the real problem with my saw is not actually the table but the cabinet itself. I had to shim the trunion up to match the table once I had it shimmed fiat. The cabinet must have gotten warped in the welding process or they just didn't do a very good job of manufacturing it. The kicker is they had installed shims at the factory to try and level the top so I really can't see how the thing got left the way it did if someone actually took the time to try and flatten everything out. Oh well I would have liked to just attach the wings and go but I will say I learned a lot about the inner workings of my saw so there was something to take away from this experience anyway.

[keith micinski]

Now that I can hopefully quit complaining about problems with my new saw I can actually give a review of it. So far the little I have used it I have found that I really like the riving knife. Probably not for what most people like it for though. Sometimes when I would cut thin pieces and have to use a push stick when I would get to the end the piece would drift over into the blade and it would ruin the end of it. With the riving knife I don't have to worry about that. I have never used a riving knife before but as near as I can tell this one does as good of a job as can be expected. I think the quick release lever could be a little more accessible but I really like the feature non the less. I cut some 8/4 with it with the stock blade that came with the saw and it definitely pulled through it a lot better them my 1 1/2 horse delta did with a much better blade on it. I have been trying to get a new Freud Fusion blade but my local store has been out of stock since last Friday. I am actually considering just going with an actual rip blade though since I already have a nice crosscut blade. It is thin kerf but I don't think I really need the riving knife or splitter in anyway for making crosscuts. I have never used just a ripping blade but I'm warming up to the idea since changing a blade out only takes 20 seconds. I installed my 52 inch unfence on the saw so I can't really say anything about the shop fox fence that came with it. I am going to install it on my contractors saw when I go to sell it so I will probably mess around with it a little then. I love the big hand wheels and I like that fact that when you lock the position by screwing in the center screw it doesn't seem to affect the position or height of the blade like it did on my Delta. It is funny though because of the gas shock it is actually harder to get the blade to go down then it is to go up. Another thing I like are the positive stops. On all of my other stuff you can tweak things out of alignment with out even trying by just turning the knob to what you think is the positive stop but you can never really tell because it feels kind of spongie. There is no missing when you are at the 90 degree and 45 degree stops on this saw. They are rock solid. Although they were set at the factory and some how they were way off again which is baffling because if you are going to go through the trouble of trying to set the 90 why not just do it right? Finally I am extremely excited about getting my new dust collection going tomorrow because I can already tell with no dust collection hooked up that the under blade dust collection is going to work like a champ.

[Bret Duffin]

Kieth,

Your post prompted me to go out to the shop and check my two year old go1023rlx. Using a wood straight edge I found the top including the c. i. extension wings to be perfectly flat in all directions.

I'd say you got a bad one. If it was me, I'd demand a new saw.

I bought mine used so I guess I got lucky.

Best of luck, Bret

[Rod Sheridan]

Keith, glad to hear you're getting to use your new saw.

Your idea of going to a dedicated rip blade is a good one, a standard kerf rip blade will be far superior to a combination blade.

Regards, Rod.

[keith micinski]

After all of the time and work I have put into picking it up unloading it and taking it apart twice now I really don't want to try and mess around getting another saw. Plus there is no guarantee that I wont get the same thing again with the next saw. The tops get shimmed at the factory to level everything up and unfortunately I just got a saw that they didn't spend enough time on. I am pretty happy with the results over all. From what I have read shimming up the wings and the table is just part of the process sometimes. I just wish I wouldn't have had to spend so much time getting it set up.

[Paul Johnstone]

Glad you got it working. I guess that's part of the process with Grizzley it seems.. a bit of a crap shoot on whether you get a good machine or not.
I can certainly understand not wanting to go through the PITA of shipping it back.

[keith micinski]

Ya, I am trying to tell myself a little shimming isn't hurting anything and unless something changes, once I get this saw dialed in I should be done messing with it for a very long time.

[Bret Duffin]

You're right of course. Demanding a new saw is easier said than done. When I think about it, I would probably do the same thing you've done.

I admire your patience.

Bret

[keith micinski]

I got a call from Grizzly today and they said they are going to send me a zero clearance insert because they don't know when they are going to be able to get me a regular one so that isn't so bad.

[keith micinski]

I bought this Freud rip blade for the saw and it is unbelievable. The three horsepower and a dedicated rip blade make cutting 8/4 material ridiculously easy. Unfortunately I did find another weakness. The two wrenches that they sent with the blade are an absolute joke. I know not to over tighten the blade and even still the first time I went to put a new blade on the open wrench that holds the arbor bent like it was made from plastic. I wanted another metal working project at work anyway.

[David Nelson1]

Now that I can hopefully quit complaining about problems with my new saw I can actually give a review of it. So far the little I have used it I have found that I really like the riving knife. Probably not for what most people like it for though. Sometimes when I would cut thin pieces and have to use a push stick when I would get to the end the piece would drift over into the blade and it would ruin the end of it. With the riving knife I don't have to worry about that. I have never used a riving knife before but as near as I can tell this one does as good of a job as can be expected. I think the quick release lever could be a little more accessible but I really like the feature non the less. I cut some 8/4 with it with the stock blade that came with the saw and it definitely pulled through it a lot better them my 1 1/2 horse delta did with a much better blade on it. I have been trying to get a new Freud Fusion blade but my local store has been out of stock since last Friday. I am actually considering just going with an actual rip blade though since I already have a nice crosscut blade. It is thin kerf but I don't think I really need the riving knife or splitter in anyway for making crosscuts. I have never used just a ripping blade but I'm warming up to the idea since changing a blade out only takes 20 seconds. I installed my 52 inch unfence on the saw so I can't really say anything about the shop fox fence that came with it. I am going to install it on my contractors saw when I go to sell it so I will probably mess around with it a little then. I love the big hand wheels and I like that fact that when you lock the position by screwing in the center screw it doesn't seem to affect the position or height of the blade like it did on my Delta. It is funny though because of the gas shock it is actually harder to get the blade to go down then it is to go up. Another thing I like are the positive stops. On all of my other stuff you can tweak things out of alignment with out even trying by just turning the knob to what you think is the positive stop but you can never really tell because it feels kind of spongie. There is no missing when you are at the 90 degree and 45 degree stops on this saw. They are rock solid. Although they were set at the factory and some how they were way off again which is baffling because if you are going to go through the trouble of trying to set the 90 why not just do it right? Finally I am extremely excited about getting my new dust collection going tomorrow because I can already tell with no dust collection hooked up that the under blade dust collection is going to work like a champ.

I'm glad to hear you got it going. I'd ask for some kind of frustration discount. Sounds like a a lot of time and labor. I had a similar situation but it was with a band saw. Cutting tenons the cut was at angle. Posted to the forum and did everything that everyone suggested. On fellow suggested to shim the the area where the riser block would go(BTW it was a jet 14DXPRO) that made sense but after thinking about that would run the upper wheel out of co planer and make tracking adjustment difficult @ best. The only other place that made sense was the table gimbal mount or the area that the table gimbal bolt to. Long story short .019 feeler gauges
bolted under the out-feed side of the table trunnion brought it right back

[Keith Weber]

I'd let you have my inserts, but I think I may have thown them in the garbage at some point. They're a safety hazard anyway. I make my inserts out of 1/2" ply and then insert threaded, Allen-headed whatchamacallits (lined up over the metal tabs in the table top) for leveling. I also add a couple in the edge to ensure a tight fit. Add a finger hole to aid in removing them. I route a groove in the bottom so that the blade doesn't touch the insert when it's in place and the blade is fully retracted. Then, just start the saw and raise the blade.

Keith W

[keith micinski]

So far so good with the saw. I made this mobile base but haven't had time to get the saw on it yet. I am eventually going to build a cabinet with a built in router lift for a side table. I still haven't figured out if two of us are going to be able to lift the saw up and set it in the base yet but I guess I will find out this week.

[Jim O'Dell]

Keith, I put my G0691 on my home built mobile base by myself. No, I didn't horse it up there. I'm not a strong guy by any means. But it depends on how your base is built if this will work for you.
On mine, the two long rails bolted on to the shorter cross rails. Does your's do this? Or is it metal and welded together? I can't tell from the pictures. If you can take the back rail off, position the base in front of the saw, tilt the saw up in the front and slide the base under with a foot. Get as much of the base under the saw as possible. Let the saw rest on the base. Have some wood that will slide under the short cross braces that will hold the back of the saw about 1/4" higher than the rail needs to be when it is all together and on the ground. Tilt the saw up from the rear and slip these two pieces under the short cross rails, resting an inch or two from the rear. One on each side with the front on the base will hold the saw safely. Mount the rear rail to the base, tilt saw up slightly at the rear and pull the two pieces of wood out from under the cross pieces, and you're done. It will be a cinch with two people, and probably safer too. The saw could get away from you if you are doing it by yourself and fall over. But what ever you do, be sure you don't try to pick the saw up by the extension wings to set it on the base! They aren't made to hold that much weight!!! It might not be pretty. :eek: You don't want to go there.
If the rails are metal and welded on, I'd get an engine hoist. Either borrow or rent one. Many have purchased one from Harbor Freight and say they work fine for this purpose. But what ever you do, do it smart. Don't get hurt or damage the saw. Jim.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Your base looks good. How about some details? I see some support in the middle to avoid sagging. Are the wheel supports 4x6 angle or something?
Thanks!
Salem

[keith micinski]

Jim, I thought about building it so that it would split in two but I came to the conclusion that once I get the saw in that base I will never take it out again. The next time I move it I will just roll it up onto the trailer. I am going to remove the wings to help lighten the saw and make it easier to move it around. I think with the wings removed the saw should weigh about 375. My plan is to tilt the saw and slide blocks under the one end then tilt it up and slide blocks under the other end. Then I will lift it up enough to remove one set of blocks and roll the base underneath and set it down.
It is 8th inch thick wall 1-3/4 tubing And the angle iron is 3x6. I had all of this steel laying around at work and the angles were already cut for another project and they didn't get used. I have recently built mobile bases for my joiner and bandsaw this exact same way and they have worked out pretty well. I like that the total height of the saw was only raised about 3/8th's of an inch because it sits down in the frame and the angles allowed me to set the height of the casters wherever I wanted. I would have rather not used the wood blocks as spacers for the casters but I built it at work not knowing what casters I was going to go with and I knew this height would allow me to set the casters exactly where I wanted them. I had originally planned on using 6 casters but I became worried that getting all 6 to line up over a 75 inch span of uneven garage floor would be tough. I also started to think that after I got the 400 pound saw and then built a cabinet with a bunch of storage and router table that this thing was going to be heavy and might actually even sag that frame enough to make a difference. I made two bolts that will allow me to level and take up any sag on the inside of the frame. One thing I am embarrassed to admit that I am disappointed about is the fact that on my old Craftsman and Delta the tilt wheel was on the left and I never realized that it was on the right of the Grizzly till after I ordered it. This is going to cut into the overall size of the cabinet I can make significantly but I guess those are the breaks. I plan on building a flat floor there so I can at least put some stuff on a lower level that won't interfere with the hand wheel.

[David Helm]

I guess I'll chime in here and tell a little about my experience with my new Grizzly G1023RLX. Unlike Keith's experience, My saw went together easily. The top is dead flat. The inserts fit well and are easily adjusted with set screws. The fence is also dead flat. I know a lot of people had difficulties with the Shop Fox fence so I'm pleased that mine isn't problematic. I installed the 40 tooth Systematic rip blade that I had in my Jet and made a test cut. It was very pleasant and every bit as good as the Jet. Incidentally, I paid the same amount for the Jet 10 years ago as I paid for this Grizzly. I believe this will be an excellent relationship.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks for the details Keith. I was thinking about the sag issue and the difficulty of lining up 6 wheels. I like your levelers as a solution.
Salem

[keith micinski]

I am glad that your saw came a little more prepared then mine did. I still have a little bit of shimming to do on my wings to make them perfect but I figured I would wait until I got it into the mobile base since I have to take them off again anyway. I am really happy with the Zero clearance insert that they sent me as a replacement for the regular insert since it is apparently backordered and they don't know when it is going to come in. I do wish I would have asked about how other people are cutting their zero clearance insert's when you have to expand the hole to accommodate the riving knife.

[keith micinski]

Just a small update. I am not sure if my saw came with the gib screws slightly loose on the elevation but I noticed the other day that when I was raising and lowering the blade it was wobbling back and forth a little. The adjustment was pretty straight forward but was a little tedious because the screws are hidden behind the shock that helps with raising the blade.

[David Weaver]

Keith,

This has come up in several other threads inivolving other manufacturers.

I am pretty sure the other manufacturers use 0.015" for the specifications too.

That's my understanding, too. In the last 10 years or so, the tops of saws have really gotten out of hand, pushing the spec.

I have a delta that's around .10-.12 hollow front to back, and it has .002 runout at the edge of the arbor flange, which turns out to be about .008" at the tooth line with a forrest bladde. .

I asked delta about it and they confirmed both are in spec, though they're close the top of the range.

When I got mine, .012 or .015 was supposedly the spec. It sounds like grizzly is forging ahead to moving it up farther. Others probably are, too. What's the reason for that, are the manufacturing houses not seasoning the cast iron properly? There's no way that's the spec of the grinder.

One thing I would be certain of is that flatness spec is measured with a straight edge that spans the top. What looks like .012 on a foot or 15 inch rule could easily be more with a full-length rule. My hollow is over a long span.

it is what it is, I guess. These saws are pretty inexpensive for what they give a hobbyist in capability, and if we want more quality assurance we'll all have to make it known by actually paying a higher price for tighter spec machines.

[Jim O'Dell]

Keith, the left tilt does have the wheel in the way of any add ons to the right of the cabinet, but my contractor saw is left tilt also, and that is what I'm used to. My cabinet is about 30" wide, and it allows me to store everything I need it to in two drawers with the top shelf for my JointTech Smart Miter. And I still have space at the bottom for my removable casters. So I'm happy with the outcome.
One thing I haven't heard from you 1023R series owners....is the dust collection port built into the cabinet, or is it on a separate door like the G0690/1 units? Am I right that the port exits the back side of the cabinet? Jim.

[Cary Falk]

Keith, the left tilt does have the wheel in the way of any add ons to the right of the cabinet, but my contractor saw is left tilt also, and that is what I'm used to. My cabinet is about 30" wide, and it allows me to store everything I need it to in two drawers with the top shelf for my JointTech Smart Miter. And I still have space at the bottom for my removable casters. So I'm happy with the outcome.
One thing I haven't heard from you 1023R series owners....is the dust collection port built into the cabinet, or is it on a separate door like the G0690/1 units? Am I right that the port exits the back side of the cabinet? Jim.

The dust port is built into the saw on the back. It has a plastic hose connector screwed to the cabinet.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/port.jpg

The left tilt wheel is in the way of the cabinet but not as much as a motor cover of a right tilt saw. I have more room for a cabinet of my short fence of the Grizzly then the 52" fence of my old right tilt.

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks for the illustration Cary. I guess I hadn't thought about looking at the online owner's manual to see how it was done. Looks like it could be opened up some for the cabinet to gain a little more evacuation from there. For a 4" hose, they really have that choked down a lot. but then, I'd want to split a single 6" duct into two 4" ducts, one for the cabinet, one for the blade shroud. :D:D:D Jim.

[Cary Falk]

Jim,
It looks like it is choked down, but it actually does a really good job. The new Unisaw is the same way. I split a 6" between this and my Excalibur and it works great.
Cary

[Will Overton]

The two wrenches that they sent with the blade are an absolute joke. I know not to over tighten the blade and even still the first time I went to put a new blade on the open wrench that holds the arbor bent like it was made from plastic.

Even a plastic wrench would be able to tighten the arbor nut enough. I'd guess you're still over doing it.

I'm glad you got the bugs out of the saw and are getting to use it. I just got my new saw up and running last week, and it is thrilling. My Freud glue line rip blade just came today. :)

[Jim O'Dell]

That is interesting. I'm thinking you are saying the wrenches are like the router wrenches? Flat steel? The wrenches with my G0691 are double open end wrenches, like mechanics wrenches. Yeah, probably HF quality, but they seem more than up to the task.
How wide is the space on the arbor for the wrench to fit? If wide enough, go to the pawn shop and dig through for a quality wrench that is the right size. Shouldn't cost too much. Jim.

[keith micinski]

I already made my own wrench at work.I agree about a plastic wrench being able to do the job that is how cheap the wrenches that came with the saw are. The right side tilt wheel didn't hurt me as much as I thought it would. I already have my cabinet built. I have another thread on how that is coming also.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

That is interesting. I'm in the process of assembling my G0490X and the wrenches that came with it are double-end cast wrenches.

[Cary Falk]

That is interesting. I'm in the process of assembling my G0490X and the wrenches that came with it are double-end cast wrenches.

All of my grizzly tools have "cast" wrenches. The 1023RL came with stamped steel. All the saws I have had have been stamped steel(including a Unisaw). There isn't much room behind the arbor to have much more. My blades aren't tight enough that a block of wood against the teeth and a wrench on the nut can't loosen.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Cary that makes sense.

[John Petsche]

great review, nice pics of the inside of the cabinet (good view of elevation brackets).

[keith micinski]

I'm thinking about updating my side cabinet top over the holiday break and giving an update on how the saw has treated me so far if I get a little extra time.

[Brian Weick]

Tin foil, warped inserts,.....

Just something I pulled of Grizzlys site,,,,,,




Where are your machines manufactured?

Our machines are manufactured in several countries, but the majority of them come from Taiwan. We have dealt with factories in Taiwan for more than twenty-five years and have two offices with quality control engineers in Taiwan and China.













B,

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tin foil, warped inserts,.....

Just something I pulled of Grizzlys site,,,,,,




Where are your machines manufactured?

Our machines are manufactured in several countries, but the majority of them come from Taiwan. We have dealt with factories in Taiwan for more than twenty-five years and have two offices with quality control engineers in Taiwan and China.













B,


and your point is?

[Brian Weick]

Well,
I was Just pointing out where thier/most machinery is being produced and assembled. What puzzles me is they do get very specific where thier machinery is made,rather a general term. Now if it were made in America or Germany i am quite certain they would be sure to emphasize that.

There was another thread about a job site table saw (different forum) that the owner was complaining about a slight give in the arbor. Side to side movement and also the noise it made.........Bosch. As most were commenting on where the saw was made and what to expect out of a job site saw......I certainly don't expect precision and do expect some added noise. The owner of the saw had 3 returns of this saw and they all came back with the same results. The last one he received he kept and was determined to remove the very slight movement in the arbor and get to the noise issue,,,,,


After the ordering a better quality bearing and installing it.....the result.....there was no improvement in the slight lateral movement of the blade.

So I guess what I was trying to say is don't expect a lot from Asian made machinery......

Back in the day when we employed people/skilled craftsman- to make this machinery here in the US. They used to make the cast tops and all the parts and then store them outside to season for a year. Then they planned and machined all the parts after the stress relief process was completed.

Modern WW equipment is not made this way anymore....what took a year is now done within a few days...different formulas for the metal used on the tops/parts ,different stress relief processes....etc..etc.......and what thier doing overseas.....who knows?



JMPOV,

B,

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian,

I am aware of only one US company still manufacturing table saws in the US. If I read their 2012 price list correctly, Northifields low end saw cost a little over $14,000 before adding any options. I have heard of a possible 2nd manufacturer making tablesaws in the US but haven't been able to confirm it.

Most of the people on this board are hobbyists and frankly couldn't afford or if they can afford it, can't justify the expense of a US made tablesaw to the specs that USED TO BE US standard.

However, it's has been decades, probably over 40 years, since a stamp of "Made in the USA" could provide the buyer some assurance of receiving a good quality product.

Beyond that.....wood is dynamic medium. Unlike some materials....some metals and plastics....it will move on it's own. Manufacturer specifications of 0.0015" is less than 1/64th of an inch. When people talk about having a variance of around 0.010"...that's just under 1/96th of an inch....Hello? Often the material itself will seasonally move that much or more. It's hard for me to get excited about a variance of 0.015" as long as it doesn't impede normal operation of the machine.

Some woodworkers would suggest to buy old and fix. That's fine if that's your preference. Frankly, I spent over 40 years repairing equipment from radar and communications equipment used in air traffic control centers to multi-million dollar MR scanners and CT scanners in hospitals across this country. I don't want to buy a used woodworking tool and spend the time necessary to repair it. Buying new is my preference. Because it's just a hobby, while I can afford to buy some US made tools, for the majority of my tools, I can't justify that kind of increased expense and neither can most hobbyists.

[keith micinski]

I couldn't be happier with the quality of the overall machine I got. It cost a fair margin less then a unisaw and for that I expected to have a few little things that needed tuned up or fixed. I don't think anyone buys a grizzly and thinks they are getting the same quality tool as a PM or a delta but it is pretty good and with a little bit of work and setup it is more then adequate to get the job done.

[Keith Hankins]

Hey I've had a 1023 for over 10 years. General rule of thumb anything within +/- .005 is considered acceptable (that goes for other vendors) The inserts they will replace no issue but to be honest I've never used mine I put in zero clearance and they are better anyway. I can't tell from your pic if the wing might be causing part of your issue. Mine had a slight issue the other way and I had to do the tape strips to bring it up a tad. Talk to CS they are pretty responsive. I like they added a riving knife. They did not have that way back when I got mine.