View Full Version : What glue to use?

john passek
08-07-2010, 9:36 PM
Hi All
I tried a search with no luck. Maybe I was too specific.
I was wondering what most people use for glueing clutch pins to Lamacoid substraight and which glue is best ( brand name, application ).
Thanks for your help

Ok, I did a search for glueing Lamacoid together, again with no luck.
Thanks again.

Bill Cunningham
08-07-2010, 9:51 PM
I've been using plain acetone for more than 20 years. For plastic backed clutch pins, just put a single drop using a hypodermic needle on the spot the pin goes, and set it in place.. Let it sit for a few minutes, and it's stuck

john passek
08-07-2010, 10:10 PM
Thanks Bill
That was quick, the acetone, is that the same as what you'd use for acrylic. I've never glued acrylic before.
I use acetone for thinning cermark, is that the same.
Sorry for the dumb questions.

Terry Swift
08-07-2010, 11:56 PM
Cermark should be diluted with denatured alcohol - not acetone.

Joe Pelonio
08-08-2010, 12:01 AM
I always buy them with the adhesive foam back, not much more money and a lot easier to work with. I think I last paid $23 for 100 pins.

john passek
08-08-2010, 1:30 AM
Joe, yes that would have been the way to go and I will do that next time but I've had the non adhesive ones given to me and want to use them up.

Terry, I was told when I baught the cermark that acetone would work , and it seems to work ok.
I only mix a small amount at a time so maybe thats why it works for me.
Thanks for pointing that out though.

Rodne Gold
08-08-2010, 5:56 AM
I do 1000's of badges a week and I use superglue (the gel type) to stick the plastic backed clutch pins on.
I use all manner of substrates from brass to various plastics and have had no issues with superglue. We leave the badges for an hour or so before packing em in small ziplock bags as the superglue outgasses and can leave a white frosty residue over the badge if packed too soon.
If I am using brass as a backing and its a real small badge in the 10mm diameter range , we often forgo the plastic backed pin (it makes the whole thing too thick or overlaps) and just solder a pin on.

Bill Cunningham
08-10-2010, 9:44 PM
Cermark should be diluted with denatured alcohol - not acetone.
methyl hydrate works as well.. I had no denatured handy so figured what the heck, and gave it a try.. I now keep a small mason jar in the cupbord with a milk consistency of Cermark and MH.. If I need it for a quick job, I just grab it, and shake it hard for a minute or so, and put it on with a small brush in two coats (let dry for a few minutes between coats, it's pretty thin) and laser away.. Works perfect every time.. The Cermark I use, was scavenged from one of those clogging defective cans ferro replaced several years ago, and from clearing the nozzle on the spray can into a shotglass, and from over spray collected on the walls of a plexi spray box.. I rarely have to pull out the spray can any more. For slightly bigger jobs, the mixture works in a airbrush as well..

Larry Allred
10-29-2010, 12:40 AM
We've also used gel type super glue without any problems, but after reading this thread I'm gonna try acetone and see how it compares.

For gluing acrylics together, the best stuff I know of is Weld On. Comes in 4 setting speeds. Put some in a needle applicator bottle, hold your pieces together and apply a little to the seam. It bleeds right in. Doesn't take much to do a great job. Put the rest back in the can when you're done so it doesn't evaporate.