Ultimate Tool Stand Construction

[Anthony Scott]

Hi. The UTS (http://christophermerrill.net/ww/plans/UTS/Tool_Stand_3.html) calls for a torsion box for the base. That seems unusual to me because I normally seen torsion boxes for the tops.
Maybe I am trying to wuss out of building a torsion box, but do you all think some laminated MDF boards would server just as well? I suppose I would need a solid wood frame for support and attaching the wheels.
I doubt my ability to build a torsion box to the level of precision needed for a base. I figure if the box for the base is out of whack, the whole thing will be out whack....
What are your opinions?
Thanks

[glenn bradley]

The torsion box is intended to keep things aligned as you move this thing around. If the base is allowed to flex, the sides will skew and transmit this to the top. If you are OK with that, forge ahead. A torsion box is not much more involved than the laminated sheets of MDF and you may be happier in the long run.

I have a mobile work table that is designed to allow the skew. It has casters attached directly to 2 sheets of laminated 3/4" ply and a dual 3/4" laminated top, A recessed and glued in back but, I left 1/8" gap around all the drawers. This way as I move the table around my less-than-perfect garage floor, the case skews due to the weight shift (of course) but the drawers don't bind. Works for me but, I do not have an aligned tool attached that I want to stay aligned. YMMV ;-)

[Chris Padilla]

I built the UTS about 9-10 years ago. Don't wimp out...build the torsion box. Just follow their plans for shimming, leveling, etc. Spend the time to get this part right and you'll be very happy for years to come. MDF IMO is perfect for this: cheap (although it was cheaper 10 years ago!), dead flat, stable, uniform, dead on at the dimension stated (3/4" thick is dead nuts on at 3/4").

Here is what I would do differently all these years later:

(1) Only build the bottom/box w/MDF.
(2) Build the rest of the carcass with 3/4" ply and double up all sides to 1 1/2" thick (laminate two sheets together). An all MDF UTS is extremely heavy!! Over the years, the vertical 3/4" MDF just won't stay straight/plumb if you plan to do lots of clamping. I ended up adding triangular corner braces...makes sliding the center boxes in and out a pain. Also, adding a hardwood faceframe to the carcass will help keep it square over the years.
(3) Don't close the back off--leave it open. I tore mine off 1 month later because I needed/wanted the access. This is why you thicken up the sides.
(4) Use 3-4" heavy duty swivel/locking casters (might need/want 6 but depends on length...mine is 81" long) to make the bench easier to move around--especially if you want to use it as an outfeed table. Don't go cheap on the casters...you'll be sorry if you do!
(5) Seal any exposed MDF (clear, paint, whatever...slop something on it)

Some tips: For the MDF grid, if you spend a bit of time dialing in your dado blade, you will need to gently hammer the two pieces together and you won't be able to separate them. Hence, no worries about gluing the grid...just pressure fit them together.

[Anthony Scott]

Cool, thanks all!