Big jar tips

[Sean Hughto]

Anyone else get those ideas for a new turning project that you've just gotta scratch? For some reason, I'm fixated on trying to make some large jars - think large covered vase - like 8" to 10" wide and maybe 14 to 18" tall. So my plan would be to look for a blank from a large tree that would have yielded like an 8" deep bowl (minimum pith to circumference radius in the 9" range) but 20" long or so (presumably a 2' long log with a 16" or better diameter could yield two such blanks). Shaping the outside seems like it will be straightforward (using the tail stock), but hollowing is no doubt going to be a challenge because of the distance from the rim of the jar to the chuck that would be holding the tenon and because that's gonna be a long reach to follow the bottom of the inside (not to mention it being end grain!). What do you ol' hands have to suggest? Is this the right thinking for the type of blank one would use? Do I need me a steady ring thing (Am I remembering right that Mr. Nichols offers those?), and how does one reach 14 inches into a vessel for hollowing? Also any suggestions for the best wood spiecies to work with on somthing like this? Thanks!

[David Christopher]

Sean, you dont have to have a steady ring thing but it helps, and for hollowing out the inside you will need a hollowing tool

check this one out
http://tnvalleywoodclub.org/Articles/hollow_cal.htm

[David Walser]

Sean,

What you're suggesting can be done, but I've seen it more often done using saved construction. It saves a lot of materials and it reduces the issues of cracking that you would have with a solid blank.

HTH

[David E Keller]

Let me preface this with the statement that I've done nothing even remotely resembling what you describe.

I'd get a hollowing rig and a steady rest for sure. You might also look into a tool rest that extends into the mouth of the form to shorten the overhang. I completely agree with your instinct to contact Jeff Nicol... He's done stuff like that I think, and he can definitely give you some help with the tooling.

[Dennis Ford]

I have done something along similiar lines but had some issues, 15 inches deep or less works better with my equipment and skills.
You will need:
* Strong heavy lathe
* Strong attachment between lathe and wood. I used a 6" dia x 1/2" thick steel faceplate with (12) 1/4" x 1-1/2" lag bolts. Longer bolts will be needed if the wood is soft. Some will say that a chuck is better for endgrain but I like a faceplate for anything heavy.
* Heavy boring bar - Mine is 1-1/4" diameter, I was wishing it was 1-1/2" diameter (the main problem; it needs to be longer for the deep vessels)
* Good steady rest
* Patience - That is a lot of wood to hollow out, it will take a while.

Your plan to eliminate the pith is good, I have friends that get away with keeping the pith but this result is more common.