New Build - Double Cutaway Prototype

[Mark Crenshaw]

I'm really excited about this build. It's a design that I've been working on over the past few months. The body is inspired by a PRS but with a little different styling and wider, fatter horns. The top will be carved similar to a PRS but with a few twists. I'll have drawings completed and posted in the next few days.

Specs:

Peruvian mahogany body.
Quilted maple carved top with faux binding.
Peruvian mahogany neck.
Bolivian rosewood fretboard with quilted maple binding.
Dual HB...not sure which brand yet.
Wrap around bridge.
Volume, tone, 3-way toggle switch.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/woods.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

I've been working on this design since March of this year. After getting the shape I wanted, I moved it into Photoshop to do a mockup of the top carve. Afret posting these oics in the guitar forums I post in, I received a huge response about my design process so I also created a video series that covers the mockup process in Photoshop. It's geared for the beginner and walks you thru all the tools and processes used in the design. The techniques can be applied to design of any project. It's posted over in the Design forum but in case you guys don't make it over there very often, here's the LINK (http://www.crenshawweb.com/guitar_design.html)

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/green_burst.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/mahog_back.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/quilted_full_aba.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Well, the heat is backing off a bit and the AC managed to get the shop to an agreeable temp so I got to work on the quilted top.

The billet had a check on each end. I know this when I bought it but I didn'r know that one of them went more than halfway thru the thickness.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body01.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body02.jpg

So, it took some creative positioning and measuring to find a spot that was full of quilt but had no checks intruding into it.

I started by placing 1/2" hash marks on the face and sliding my pattern centerline inward until the horn cleared the check.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body03.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body04.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Then I marked the head and tail and flipped the pattern to check it's positon with the other horn. 2" in from the edge with the most wane was the sweet spot.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body05.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body06.jpg

After trimming 2" from the egde and resawing two 7/8" slabs for the bookmatch, I saw that there was some sapwood on the inside that wasn't visable before. As luck would have it, the pattern fits just inside the sapwood. And the ends to the left are not affected by the checks...the deep one was on the other end. I must be living right. It couldn't have come our closer.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body07.jpg

Jointed and in the clamps. I gave it a quick test with a scraper to see the quilt...red circle.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body08.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

After it came out of the clamps, I gave it a cleanup pass thru the planer and took it down to 3/4". I think it's going to turn out nicely. There are a couple of small knots that appear to be very shallow. I'm thinking they'll be gone by the time the carve is done.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body09.jpg

More soon.

Peace,
Mark

[alex grams]

Wow, if your guitar making skills are on par with your guitar photoshopping skills, it is going to be a heck of a project.

I am curious as to the time and cost (materials/finished product). Obviously feel free to not answer, or PM me.

That is one heck of a nice looking piece of maple.

[Brett Baldwin]

Looks like an auspicious start. With that tight tolerance on the bookmatched portion, at least you can be glad that you are using that beautiful quilted maple to its fullest.

[Quinn McCarthy]

Another wonderful piece of art work Mark.

Always look forwrd to seeing your work out here.

Quinn

[Jim Becker]

Rut-ro....this one's going to be a real looker. Wow...that quilt in the maple is outstanding! You haven't even built it yet and I'm salivating. (noteworthy considering I'm a keyboardist at heart...LOL) And oh, my...it's incredible how the bookmatch with navigating the sap and checks worked out. You indeed have been a good boy or something! :)

[Doug Shepard]

I'm liking everything except the dark green color. It's just hiding that gorgeous quilt figure too much.

[Tony Shea]

I agree with Doug about the green. Just an absolutely beautiful peice of quilted with a perfect bookmatch. Hate to see the green displace some of that natural maple beauty and cover up your impressive job of matching them up. To each his own though as either way this one is going to be a looker for sure. Can't wait to see it come to life.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Well, the AC in the shop is keeping a relatively cool 80F so I got a chance to get started on this today.
First thing was to rough cut the top and body. I trimmed them fairly close to the template lines to reduce the risk of tear out during profiling with the router. I'm a bit concerned about the color variations in this maple. You can see on the edge that will eventually be the faux binding, there's going to be a change from light to dark. I think I may go with a honey amber finish to reduce the contrast at the edges...just have to wait and see.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body10.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body11.jpg

I wanted to get them cut and weigh them. Glad I did...the two together weigh in at over 8 lbs. So this baby getting chambered. No f-hole, just some wieght reduction.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body12.jpg

I was going to just profile the body on the belt/spindle sander but and route the top to match but since I'm chambering, I have to make a template. So, I did.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body13.jpg

Here it is just after hogging out the middles with a forstner bit and hand drill.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body14.jpg

And after smoothing it out on the spindle sander. It just needs a bit of hand blocking and it's ready to go.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body16.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Since I was going to be doing more routing than I thought and since I've been meaning to do it anyway, I took the time to make a vacuum box. Just a simple MDF box. With the back and sides assembled, I sealed it up with caulk.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body18.jpg

Then I drew out a rough 1" grid and drilled every other cross point and offset each row...forgot to take a picture after drilling.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body19.jpg

I borrowed the collection fitting from my band saw...it's sealed in with electrical tape so it pops back out for use on the band saw.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body20.jpg

Standing on edge with my dust collector attached and running, I'd say it's working pretty well.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body21.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

So, back to all that routing I need to do. The body back by itself weighs in at a touch over 5 lbs. to start.
http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body22.jpg
I normally hog out most of the chambers with a forstner bit but I wanted to put the vacuum box thru it's paces. It works great! I may need to vent it on the side to let the DC work a little better...when I lean into it with the router, the body can slip a hair. Nothing scary, just not fully locked down. I don't normally exert that much lateral force but I wanted to test it's holding power.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body23.jpg

My camera batteries were down so I didn't get a pic of the scale after chambering but it weighed in at 3.028 lbs. Shed 2 lbs the easy way. It's chambered, profiled and ready for the top.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body24.jpg

I taped the top to the back of the body and ran the glue side thru the planer just to level it out. I did this to the body also before chambering it.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body25.jpg

So, all laid out and ready to glue up the top.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body26.jpg

Clampzilla!!!

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body27.jpg

More soon...

Peace,
Mark

[Nathan Dekens]

Mark, Im a bit confused on the purpose of the vaccum box. Was it just to hold the body in place when you chambered it rather then clamping and routing one side then re-clamping and routing the other?


Since I was going to be doing more routing than I thought and since I've been meaning to do it anyway, I took the time to make a vacuum box. Just a simple MDF box. With the back and sides assembled, I sealed it up with caulk.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body18.jpg

Then I drew out a rough 1" grid and drilled every other cross point and offset each row...forgot to take a picture after drilling.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body19.jpg

I borrowed the collection fitting from my band saw...it's sealed in with electrical tape so it pops back out for use on the band saw.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body20.jpg

Standing on edge with my dust collector attached and running, I'd say it's working pretty well.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body21.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Mark, Im a bit confused on the purpose of the vaccum box. Was it just to hold the body in place when you chambered it rather then clamping and routing one side then re-clamping and routing the other?

That's it exactly. It gave me free run all the way around the body while I was chambering it...more importantly when flush trimming the body blank to a template or trimming a laminated top to the body. No more reclamping or bumping into clamp handles. It also removes the possiblity of a clamp caul damaging the piece I'm working on or from me dropping one during repositioning.

I opted for this approach because I've never been comfortable with router tables. My limited experience with them has been enough for me.

Peace,
Mark

[Nathan Dekens]

Mark,

Thanks for your reply! I have to admit before I found this forum, I had sold my old strat 1975 and have been using the funds to purchase shop equipment to do exactly what you are doing. However my passion is with the strat style rather then teles and the like. I have learned a lot from watching your builds and I hope that within the coming years I can produce something of the quality that you are sharing with us. In short you rock!


That's it exactly. It gave me free run all the way around the body while I was chambering it...more importantly when flush trimming the body blank to a template or trimming a laminated top to the body. No more reclamping or bumping into clamp handles. It also removes the possiblity of a clamp caul damaging the piece I'm working on or from me dropping one during repositioning.

I opted for this approach because I've never been comfortable with router tables. My limited experience with them has been enough for me.

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

So, back to all that routing I need to do. The body back by itself wighs in at a touch over 5 lbs. to start.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body22.jpg

I normally hog out most of the chambers with a forstner bit but I wanted to put the vacuum box thru it's paces. It works great! I may need to vent it on the side to let the DC work a little better...when I lean into it with the router, the body can slip a hair. Nothing scary, just not fully locked down. I don't normally exert that much lateral force but I wanted to test it's holding power.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body23.jpg

My camera batteries were down so I didn't get a pic of the scale after chambering but it weighed in at 3.028 lbs. Shed 2 lbs the easy way. It's chambered, profiled and ready for the top.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body24.jpg

I taped the top to the back of the body and ran the glue side thru the planer just to level it out. I did this to the body also before chambering it.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body25.jpg

So, all laid out and ready to glue up the top.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body26.jpg

Clampzilla!!!

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body27.jpg

[/QUOTE]

[Mark Crenshaw]

While I was waiting on the body to set up, I got started on the neck. One of the things I've wanted to do is build a jig for my scarf joints. There's been quite a bit of discussion in the forum lately so I thought I would give it a shot.

My best option is my band saw. It has plenty of height and has proven itself to cut straight thru many resaw operations. I started by building a sled that's guided on both edges of the table. Since the table is a custom setup, it doesn't have a slot for a miter guage so I had to rely on the edges.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk01.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk02.jpg

Then I marked a line down the center that marks the blade path.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk03.jpg

I laid out a scarf joint on a mahogany blank and lined the diagonal line front and back on the blade path line. Then I drew out a line along the back of the blank that gave me my reference for the fence. Attached a piece of ash from the bottom making sure to countersink everything so nothing would drag or hang up as the sled moved.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk04.jpg

The first pass thru the saw cut the blade path and angled the end of the ash fence.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk05.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

After the first pass with the jig. I rushed the cut a bit. Feeding it slower will yield a smoother cut.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk07.jpg

After a bit of sanding in the belt sander...nice flat joint. I'm glad this worked out so I didn't have to use a hand plane. I used one on my PRS build by it wasn't much fun.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk08.jpg

With the body out of the clamps I trimmed up the top and got rid of any router bearing marks with a quick pass on the belt sander.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body29.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body28.jpg

On to the neck pocket and carve tomorrow.

[Mark Crenshaw]

While I had the scarf joint jig set up, I ran a few more necks. I took my time and eased the stock thru and got a very smooth cut. I think just a touch up on the belt sander and these will be good to go.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk11.jpg

I also made my neck pocket template. It was pretty easy once I figured out I wanted the 21st fret at the end of the pocket. Some quick calculations and I was ready to go. My neck tenon will be 1.625" beyond te end of the neck/fretboard, completely under the neck pickup route. I left .375" below the pocket. I'm thinking that's a good thickness to have there making the total thickness of the heel, neck and fretboard 1.750". Or to break it down, .750" tenon, .750" neck and .250" fretboard.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body30.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body31.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body32.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body33.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

I moved on to the first steps in the carve by angling the top. The area from just in front of the bridge out to the neck pocket needs to be angled at 4 degrees to match the neck angle.

I used a modified version of a router sled to do this. The body is set on the table a 4 degree rise and the router is suspended overhead. The clamps on the far left and right guide the router in straight lines across the body.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body34.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body37.jpg

After 2 passes from the zero cut line just in front of the bridge location.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body38.jpg

About half way thru.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body39.jpg

When I reached the end of the neck pocket, I shimmed the back of the body level with the front and finished it off at the same level. This will leave more material for for the carve on the horns.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body40.jpg

With the cutting completed you can see the gentle slope toward the neck pocket. Time for the fun stuff!!! Carving!

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body41.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

Since I ended up chambering the body to reduce it's weight, doing a tummy cut on back isn't an option anymore. So here's an updated look for the back without the cut and with a larger radius on the edges. I also tweaked the control cover.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/mahog_back2.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Van Huskey]

Very nice write-up so far and gorgeous as always on the work!

[Mark Crenshaw]

Very nice write-up so far and gorgeous as always on the work!

Thanks Van.

The heat is going to break this weekend so maybe I'll be able to make some progress soon.

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

I braved the hot temps in the shop just because I was frustrated with not getting anything done. It was unpleasant but I made some good progress.
I decided to start on the scarf joint so it would be setting up as I worked on the body. The use of the band saw jig I made really paid off. I marked a couple of pencil lines as a guide and with some 80 grit on a piece of 3/4" MDF, I blocked out the back side of the joint.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk12.jpg

It only took 15 of 20 secs to level it out. I then followed with some 220 which I have stuck to the other side of the MDF.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk13.jpg

I use a gluing method that clamps the main part of the neck to the bench on it's edge. Then I clamp a block of scrap to the bench that keeps the upper part of the joint in place.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk14.jpg

All that's left is to apply glue and clamp it up.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk15.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

This process for the scarf joint worked very well and I went ahead and glued up 3 more mahogany blanks thoughout the day plus a couple of maple blanks for the ash top projects I have coming up.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk16.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk17.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk18.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk19.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

In between gluing up neck blanks, I worked on the body. First step was to do a pre carve. I used an overhead router setup to do this. I trimmed out the carve portion of my full sized printout and traced it onto the body.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body42.jpg

The router works by using a tongue that sets the width of the cut and the depth is set by the router.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body43.jpg

After the pre carving. Each step was made by advancing the bit and retracting the tongue.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body44.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body45.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body46.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

For the carving I decided to do a video series. It's more demonstrational than informational but hopefully there's some usable info. About 35 mins between the 3 vids. Excuse all the sweating...it was HOT out there.

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXSj44ji79A

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYLIsC4R4ik

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHopuF1iTek

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

I really wanted to video tape the the remaining rough carve but the heat and humidity were fogging up the optics in the camera so I just pushed on without it.

Here's a shot of the rough carve so far...I still need to work on a few areas but it's close.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body50.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Keith Starosta]

WOW.....that is going to be SO beautiful!!! Can't wait to see more...

[Mark Crenshaw]

WOW.....that is going to be SO beautiful!!! Can't wait to see more...


Thanks Keith. If we ever get a break from the heat, I'll be able to get back on the build. I'm on hold until then. :(

Peace,
Mark

[Rich Neighbarger]

Nicely done.

[Keith Starosta]

Hey Mark! Any progress on this piece? I'd LOVE to see an update...

Hope all is well!!

- Keith

[Mark Crenshaw]

Hey Mark! Any progress on this piece? I'd LOVE to see an update...

Hope all is well!!

- Keith

Hi Keith.

I have done a bit of work on it. I have all the neck blanks cleaned up, truss rod channels routed and ready for the ears and heels to be glued up. I just haven't had the time or energy to do much else. It's cooling down this time of year and I have next week with the house to myself...should be a productive one. :D

Peace,
Mark

[Joe Cunningham]

Looking great Mark. I'm thinking of doing a gibby style headstock for my next build, though to keep it simple I might go with a Fender bolt-on.

How did you get your SS bandsaw to cut straight? Mine has a serious drift to it (and w/o that custom table, very little resaw ability), probably close to 15 deg. I compensate pretty easily since I found the drift angle and marked it on some mdf for aligning cuts.

[Rich Neighbarger]

Looks great.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Looking great Mark. I'm thinking of doing a gibby style headstock for my next build, though to keep it simple I might go with a Fender bolt-on.

How did you get your SS bandsaw to cut straight? Mine has a serious drift to it (and w/o that custom table, very little resaw ability), probably close to 15 deg. I compensate pretty easily since I found the drift angle and marked it on some mdf for aligning cuts.

Hi Joe. Thanks. Sorry for the late respose. I've been away from the forum for a month or so.

My SS band saw has never had an issue with drift. I have read that the tracking of the wheels has a lot to do with it...even heard of guys tugging on them to align them better. Might check out the SS forum on their site...lots of guys there with alot more experience that me.

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

Looks great.

Thanks Rich.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Well, after months of hot weather, crushing schedule at work and a general lack of ambition in the midst of it all, I'm finally getting back to this build. In the time off I've had lots of time to think about the next steps and a few jigs to help with future builds.

One of my setups that has long needed a revamp is how I cut my truss rod channels. I used to just clamp off a straight edge to the bench, measure out and screw the blank to to bench top and set stops at either end to control the router. It worked okay but I wanted a jig that would give me quick, repeatable results. What I came up with is not too far from where I started but it is much faster and more accurate. And it allows me to route a channel in a blank with an angled headstock while fully supporting the length of the blank to avoid flexing during routing. It can be setup on any surface as long as the end can hang out over the edge.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk20.jpg

Back when I bought my chop saw, it came with a package of hold-downs for keeping stock in place on the saw. I never saw any need for them but I tossed them into a drawer for use at a future date. Today was that day.
After measuring everything out, I installed countersunk T-nuts on the underside in several positions. The hold-down threads thru the top and into the T-nut. The heel end of the blank is secured here. The headstock sticks thru an opening on the other end and is held in place with a clamp.
The blank is laid in on a centerline and the router runs along the fence.

The router uses an aluminum plate that I made for it on my first build. I didn't incorporate any stops because the bit just doesn't go anywhere without firm pressure so the chances of going too far are minimal as long as stop and start points are clearly marked. I routed 6 channels in about 30 mins.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk21.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk22.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk23.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

This build is going to have a bound fretboard so I wanted to have a jig for tapering the fretboard blank. This allows me to size for the binding before attaching the fretboard to the blank. It eliminates the need for routing after the fretboard is attached.

Without building another jig all together, I was able to flip my truss rod jig and use the fence to ride along the side of the band saw table. It was 3/4" wider than I needed so this allowed me to make a pass with the saw running and trim it to a perfect width.

I installed T-nuts on the top side...countersunk so they don't interfer with travel...and when flipped over, I can clamp the fretboard blank into place with hold-downs. It's very similar to a taper jig for a table saw except it rides the edge instead of a miter slot. Even if the jig were to back away from the table during cutting, worst case, I make another pass...it can't get too close to the blade to gouge the fretbord or jig.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk25.jpg

The marked tape lines are set to the edge of the jig and then it just takes a pass thru the saw and done. Turn the blank around and repeat.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk26.jpg

Here's my test on a maple blank. I cut it just a touch wide to allow for shaping and final sanding.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk27.jpg

More very soon.

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

Moving on with the neck build I wanted to have a sure-fire way of cutting the access for TR adjustment. I've tried using a long bit on my ShopSmith in the horizontal boring position but it keeps flexing up away from the headstock. And Forstner bits are too short for the most part to get the throw I need.

I started thinking about pocket screw jigs and how they support the bit as it's guided in at an angle. I took a look at how Preeb and Scatter Lee did their jigs and sort of combined all of the above into something that would be one piece, attach easily, center itself and give consistant results.
I did a bit of pre-viz in 3D just to see what I needed to do to make it happen. Here's the basic design.

The top is a piece of 1" stock running end to end with a 14 degree wedge glued under it. There is a 1/4" spline attached to the underside that locks into the TR channel and centers the jig. A 5/8" bore is run straight thru at the proper height and a 1.25" hole is drilled on top as a window to monitor the depth of the drilling.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/jig03.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/jig01.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/jig08.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/jig10.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/jig12.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

The plan seems to have worked out well. I started by sizing the 2 pieces and gluing them up. I left 8" forward of the line where the wedge meets the top piece. Here they are in the clamps. I used the pipes of the clamps to brace additional 14 degree wedges in place to use for gluing cauls.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk28.jpg

When they came out of the clamps, I attached a 6" rosewood spline on the centerline. I left enough space at the end of the slpine so it didn't have to fit right up to the end of the TR channel. I just needed it to be inplace to center the jig.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk29.jpg

Here it is set into place...I still need to plane down the spline a bit to get the jig to sit flat on the neck.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk30.jpg

After thinning out the spline...it didn't need much. You can see I altered the original desing a bit by leaving a tongue on the back of the jig to give me another clamp point so the jig can't lift at the rear duing boring.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk31.jpg

Here it is with the tongue trimmed out and clamped in place on a mahogany blank.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk32.jpg

I eased the edges and cleaned it up a bit. I still need to do the bore...I'll save that for tomorrow.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk33.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/nk34.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Dave Houseal]

making a drilling jig like that is a great idea...I could see where that could have other applications too.

Have you considered over boring and inserting a metal tube into the jig to keep it form wearing? Of course you'd have to find one with the right inside diameter. Might be easier said than done.

[Mark Crenshaw]

making a drilling jig like that is a great idea...I could see where that could have other applications too.

Have you considered over boring and inserting a metal tube into the jig to keep it form wearing? Of course you'd have to find one with the right inside diameter. Might be easier said than done.

Hi Dave. I have several pieces of tubing in my junk drawer but none of them have the correct ID. I did think about countersinking a 5/8" stop collar at the opening of the bore...not sure that would accomplish the same thing though.

Peace,
Mark

[Dave Houseal]

I could see the stop color could being completely adequate. I'd think most of the forces on the bit as it gets started would be at the tip.

[Bryan Morgan]

I love how detailed you are with your posts. Makes it convenient for us to silently copy everything you do. :D

[Seth Dolcourt]

Mark,

Great update! I always enjoy your presentations.

Hey....how many guys would dare make a jig out of tiger striped maple? Durn straight, a tool should be as purdy as it is functional. I envision some inlay work, or perhaps your Lone Star stain pattern with a high luster finish.

Do it. Do it. Do it. :)

Cheers,

Seth

[Jim Becker]

And it's a darn nice looking jig, too! LOL That maple was just calling out to you from the bin, wasn't it? :)

[Mark Crenshaw]

Yeah, I felt a bit of guilt as I was cutting it up but I had no idea the figure was that nice until I sliced it open. If the jig doesn't work out, I can always salvage it for inlay or headstock veneers. But, nothing wrong with having good looking tools. :D

Peace,
Mark

[Greg Peterson]

Mark,
How did this build turn out?

[Gregg Ramer]

I can't wait to see the finished piece....and I love the green color! I love to see natural wood, but the green color really makes the quilt pattern pop. Keep up the great work!

[Gregg Ramer]

Updates? Looking forward to seeing more.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Well, I'm finishing up some builds I started last year and this one is next on my list...the last on the list actually. I'm excited to get back to it. I should have an update in a few days. I'm hoping to make some progress this weekend. I'm rethinking the finish color...maybe amber burst is better suited for this particular top...I'm leaning that way for sure.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/quilt_amber_3.jpg

Peace,
Mark

[Mike OMelia]

This is very nice work!! But why not post under the musical instruments forum? We need Ur support there!!

Great job!

Mike

[Mark Crenshaw]

Thanks Mike. I will on future builds but the MI forum didn't exist when I started this thread last year. If Jim would like to move my builds to MI, I'm good with that.

Peace,
Mark

[Mike OMelia]

No need to do that.

[Gregg Ramer]

The amber burst is beautiful, but I still like the green best. It's more eye-catching and different.

[Mark Crenshaw]

This is the last of my unfinished builds. I wrapped up my 2011 Challenge build, the purple maple and alder Tele and my PRS Custom 22. Now it's time to focus on this one.

There's a lot to be said for staying on task and getting things done in a timely manner, but there's also a great bit to be said for walking away, refreshing your perspective and showing a little patience. Coming back to this build after several months, I have a whole new outlook on it and a renewed excitement for the project

Since my last post, I have actually done a bit of work on the neck, It's fretted, leveled and dressed. I just need to drill it and open up the TR access. Here it is with the body pretty much as it was at my last post.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body51.jpg

I started refining the carve with a collection of sanding tools, scrapers and an Ibex plane. I focused on the outer portions of the carve, making sure to remove all of the planing marks and deepen the areas that needed it.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body52.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body53.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body54.jpg

Then, I tool a piece of MDF with 80 grit and blocked the flat part of the top. This puts a crease detail back into the edges of the carve by flattening them. It also shows me where my shape may be off by the way the sawdust gathers in the recessed areas.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body56.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body57.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body58.jpg

I then took a pass with scrapers to clear and open up the grain again...starting to look like the quilt I started with.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body59.jpg

Here they are with a wash coat of EM6000 on them to seal everything up and serve as a guide coat for final sanding....it will all sand away but it seals things for now. The dark spots in the bridge area are still wet...they dried light like the rest of the top.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body60.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body62.jpg

More soon.

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

I shot this as the sun was starting to set. The figure is back with a vengeance!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYDlmIaw7nk

[Mark Crenshaw]

Well, I managed to get a few days vacation, coupled with a long weekend due to Memorial Day, I have 5 straight days off! So, the first day, yesterday, was a bust. No power since 8pm Wed night when severe storms blew thru. It came back on late in the day Thur, so I didn't get anything done. It was kinda nice just listening to the breeze and sipping a cold beer...no humming, buzzing, ringing, chiming going on. Just silence for the most part. Nice.

Power's back on today, so I got to work. I started by routing the round over on the back.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body67.jpg

Made sure to check the bearing at the neck pocket...okay.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body68.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body69.jpg

Next, it was the control cavity. I used a template set I already had. I turned the cover so I could get the control layout I wanted...sort of upside down from how the cover is normally used. I cut the main cavity...

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body70.jpg

Then the lip for the cover. I went just a hair deeper than I needed knowing that finish buildup would bring it back flush.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body71.jpg

Done.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body72.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Next I wanted to get the PU routed. I'm using the HB routes from my Wolfgang template. It's an odd shaped body and finding the center line was a bit tricky. I came up with a way that can be used on pretty much any template...many ship without center lines marked. Still don't understand why.

I started by drawing a straight line down a piece of scrap maple. The line's relationship to the edges isn't important...it just needs to be straight.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body73.jpg

Next, I used calipers to check the width of the HB routes. Then, set the caliper to half this amount. I laid the template in place and eyeballed the center of the routes. Then used the caliper to check the distance from each edge until they where centered.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body74.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body75.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body76.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body77.jpg

Then I transferred the marks to the edges of the template.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body78.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Then using a straight edge, I drew out the center line for the entire template.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body79.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body80.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body81.jpg

Before routing the PUs, I needed to trim down the neck tenon so I could make the proper depth checks with the PU.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body83.jpg

Because I wanted a different spacing between the PUs than the Wolfgang has, I had to stick the template down twice...once for each initial pass.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body84.jpg

Here it is with the neck set in place, after the first two routing passes.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body85.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Pickups are cut to depth.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body86.jpg

I did a bit more blocking and planing on the carve, evened out some high spots...I hate to go back to the plane at this point, but sometimes you have to.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body87.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body88.jpg

The headstock needed a bit of blocking too...it's ready to drill. I need to do that before gluing in the neck.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body90.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

Another wash coat on the top to seal it up.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body91.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body92.jpg

More tomorrow.

[Mark Crenshaw]

Not much to report today. I drilled the paths for PU wires, and the bore for the output jack. I'm waiting on the bridge to arrive before I glue in the neck so I can check the angle while it can still be corrected. I hope to see it tomorrow or Wed.

Peace,
Mark

[Mark Crenshaw]

I'm still moving on this one...just trying top catch the other builds up to it.

After checking the center line once more, I glued in the neck. But for a bit of drilling, this one's ready for finish prep. I need to open up the TR access, too.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body93.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body94.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/body95.jpg

I have 4 of them ready for prep actually. Lots of sanding in my future.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/proto/all11.jpg

http://www.crenshawweb.com/strat02/nk03.jpg

[Mark Crenshaw]

The heat has been a bear lately and the shop has uninhabitable so I have made any progress on finishing. I've been able to spend a few hours in the mornings working on getting all my builds ready for finish. Here's the state of things. This build and the others are ready for grain filling (as needed) and finish.

http://www.crenshawweb.com/all12.jpg
http://www.crenshawweb.com/all13.jpg
http://www.crenshawweb.com/all14.jpg
http://www.crenshawweb.com/all15.jpg
http://www.crenshawweb.com/all16.jpg

More soon.
Mark