513x2 Blade Guide Bearing - Cleaning?

[alex grams]

Is there a good way to clean these? They collect some pitch/tar from sawdust after a while and the front two bearings on the lower guide seem to tighten up some.

I have taken them off and sprayed them down with some WD-40 and spun them for a while to try and loosen them up, but they still don't freely spin.

Any suggestions? Or best to just get new ones?

[Pete Bradley]

Read the number on the bearing. Most likely it's a common size that you can pick up at a decent hardware store, electric motor shop, or skateboard shop (if they're 608). Quality doesn't matter, they'll be gunked up long before they wear out.

[Dave Lehnert]

Read the number on the bearing. Most likely it's a common size that you can pick up at a decent hardware store, electric motor shop, or skateboard shop (if they're 608). Quality doesn't matter, they'll be gunked up long before they wear out.
Also check an auto parts store.

[Tom Esh]

Is there a good way to clean these? They collect some pitch/tar from sawdust after a while and the front two bearings on the lower guide seem to tighten up some.

I have taken them off and sprayed them down with some WD-40 and spun them for a while to try and loosen them up, but they still don't freely spin.

Any suggestions? Or best to just get new ones?

They're probably toast already. Lower BS guide bearings eat a lot of fine dust and in my experience the Grizzly OEM bearings, though inexpensive, don't seem to be as well sealed as the better aftermarket brands. Problem with trying to clean them out is it's nearly impossible without popping off the shield / seal and damaging it in the process. WD40 might flush some of it with the seal intact, but it will wash out the heavy lubricant as well and it won't last long as a result. Practically any bearing shop will have several levels of higher grade replacements. The cheapest is probably sufficient. (Except for the dust, it's considered pretty much a low stress, low speed application.) Expect to spend 2-3x the cost of the oems.
BTW, never use an air gun to blow out dust around them. It can force gunk past the seals.

[Dave Lehnert]

If looking for something to spray. This stuff is amazing. I used a can of it at work. Never knew where it came from and could never find it in stores. Turns out you can only buy it direct.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

[glenn bradley]

I thought my bearings were going and so bought a pack of 10 sealed bearings for mine for under $20 ($12-$15 IIRC) online. I just Googled the bearing number, picked a "professional" looking supplier and chose the best sealed bearings they offered. After I had placed the order I got things loosened up with a little router bearing oil and spinning them with my fingers. The new ones are sitting behind the saw . . . waiting still . . . at least they were inexpensive and are now on hand.

The build up you describe is beyond what I get but I don't cut a lot of green or resinous woods. Once you get the immediate problem solved I wonder if a spray Teflon or Boeshield used on the outer portions of the bearings would keep things from building up? I think I will give that a try the next time I need to saw material of that sort.

[alex grams]

my buildup probably arises from cutting up some wood for smoking/BBQing. My dad gives me his oak which is the split/crotch grain which is nearly impossible for him to split with a maul, but I can zip through it with a sled on the bandsaw. Granted, this wood is usually 2+ years dried, but probably carries much more residue than milled construction wood.

[Gary Muto]

i just ordered some. Thanks!

[glenn bradley]

my buildup probably arises from cutting up some wood for smoking/BBQing. My dad gives me his oak which is the split/crotch grain which is nearly impossible for him to split with a maul, but I can zip through it with a sled on the bandsaw. Granted, this wood is usually 2+ years dried, but probably carries much more residue than milled construction wood.

I see no problem with paying the small price of a little clean up in exchange for some really good BBQ wood. Just thinkin about it is making me hungry :).

[alex grams]

Just because :)

[glenn bradley]

Alex, you are a cruel man. That is a great picture!!!

[Jason Varner AF]

I was having the same problem with mine. I broke down and ordered the ceramic guide set: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/H7873 I haven't use the saw yet with with the new guides so I can't comment on them yet.

[Brandon Weiss]

Is there a good way to clean these? They collect some pitch/tar from sawdust after a while and the front two bearings on the lower guide seem to tighten up some.

I have taken them off and sprayed them down with some WD-40 and spun them for a while to try and loosen them up, but they still don't freely spin.

Any suggestions? Or best to just get new ones?

Just yesterday I bought a couple of bearing lube pens from rockler. USed them on the RAS I was give that hadn't been used in a couple of years. They immediately brought back the free rotation to the bearings.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22580&filter=bearing%20lube
(http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22580&filter=bearing%20lube)
Heck of a deal at 2.99 each.