Mounting Triton router in table

[Jeff Qualmann]

Well, I went and splurged recently for a big 3-1/4 hp Triton router to mount up in a, new to me, Craig's List Jessum table. While I've used various routers freehand for year's, I have yet to ever mount one under a table. I've got both the stock Jessum router plate as well as a "virgin" Pinnacle plate to work with. However, instructions for mounting the router are pretty sketchy.

For those of you with a Triton router I have couple of questions before I go and start drilling mounting holes. I've already remove the thin sub base.

What have you found is the best orientation of the router to the front of the table to allow access to all of the necessary controls? If I put my main controls facing the front and the switch on the right, then it puts the above the table winder access to the back left and likely behind the fence, which seems awkward for easy height changes.

I'm assuming that now that the sub base is off, should I then utilize those exposed threaded holes in the main base to attach the router to the router plate with the same, but longer, countersunk flathead screws? Anybody know if these screws are metric thread vs. standard? Does it make sense to use loctite on these bolts? I'd hate to see what happens if they decide to slowly work their way loose while I'm spinning a big raised panel bit.

I'm trying to get it right the first time and avoid punching anymore holes in the table plate then there already are (of course, none of the factory holes match the Triton).

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

What have you found is the best orientation of the router to the front of the table to allow access to all of the necessary controls?

The position that allows me to reach under and manipulate the up down and on off. I put the up down crank closer to where I sit and stand. The switch is on the far side. I made a little handle with a squeeze mechanism that allows me to rotate the head up and down more easily than always grabbing the wheel.



I'm assuming that now that the sub base is off, should I then utilize those exposed threaded holes in the main base to attach the router to the router plate with the same, but longer, countersunk flathead screws? Anybody know if these screws are metric thread vs. standard?They are 1/4-20 inch standard


Does it make sense to use loctite on these bolts? I'd hate to see what happens if they decide to slowly work their way loose while I'm spinning a big raised panel bit.I don't use any thread locker, but then I take the router out and mount it in my X Y milling table / slot mortiser as the power head.

The Triton is not the best router I've used. Prolly among the worst. The frame bends under heavy loading, the rotating depth adjustment is a cheesy piece of plastic trash, the lock shaft for depth limitation falls apart under the incredible vibration of the motor and in my case e little spring and ball fell out and got lost. It never stayed locked anyway.
I paid the show price of $110.00 and still I almost wish I'd paid the $400.00 and got the Festertool now it's like double that.

[Gary Muto]

I believe that Rockler sells a plate for Triton routers (their own brand and/or Benchdog). Even if you don't buy one perhaps you can see how they oriented the mounting holes and adjustment access holes.