Best way to cut a bowl blank?

[john davey]

Hi sorry if this is very basic but I am new to bowls and couldn't really find what I was looking for in a search.

I had a maple limb clunk into my house during a storm last weekend. Pepco finally came by and cut it out of the wires (and got power back on) the other day. I would like to make some smaller bowls from this limb if I can. I say smaller because my 2 lathes are a Delta Midi and a Rockwell 46-111.

The question is how to cut the blanks from the limb. I currently have several 24" lengths that are about 10-12 inches in width. I am assuming the pith is not wanted so i am restricted to 4-5 inches on either side of this. Or is the pith OK?

Also do I want the bottom of the bowl to be end grain or face grain. I am guessing face here and the end is what causes tear out in places when turning. Is there a preference? Maybe half way in between?

Also if someone has a nice web page or article (or maybe a link inside the creek of something I could not find in a search) I would love to see that for more information as well.

Thanks, John...

[Stephen Walker]

John,

check out "articles" at wonderfulwood.com (Bill Grumbine's site)

[Allen Neighbors]

Hi sorry if this is very basic but I am new to bowls and couldn't really find what I was looking for in a search.

I had a maple limb clunk into my house during a storm last weekend. Pepco finally came by and cut it out of the wires (and got power back on) the other day. I would like to make some smaller bowls from this limb if I can. I say smaller because my 2 lathes are a Delta Midi and a Rockwell 46-111.

The question is how to cut the blanks from the limb. I currently have several 24" lengths that are about 10-12 inches in width. I am assuming the pith is not wanted so i am restricted to 4-5 inches on either side of this. Or is the pith OK?

Also do I want the bottom of the bowl to be end grain or face grain. I am guessing face here and the end is what causes tear out in places when turning. Is there a preference? Maybe half way in between?

Also if someone has a nice web page or article (or maybe a link inside the creek of something I could not find in a search) I would love to see that for more information as well.

Thanks, John...

John, I think on Bill Grumbine's Webpages you'll find a diagram on how to cut them. I would cut them to a couple of inches longer than the limb is wide. Then split them down the center (cut about 1.25 inches out of the center, longways).
Now, if you put the bottom of the bowl next to the pith, you can turn a decent little Natural edged bowl from the blank. Some folks turn normal bowls that way, but they'll be a little shallower...
If you put the bottom of the bowl next to the bark, you can make a little deeper bowl from it.
Just think about the way the grain will run in the turned bowl, and then make your decision from that... It's hard, but you can do it.
Main thing, is to have fun, while you're spinning wood... :)
Al

[Sean Hughto]

Howdy, neighbor. I sketched a quick pic that hopefully is obvious.

If you cut the red blank, you can make a maximum sized bowl with the foot at either side (I personally tend to favor the foot towards the pith as I like the concentric sort of pattern:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4651116009_b6752d4ff2.jpg

as opposed to the "X pattern" you get when going the other way:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/4673264102_0c30667fbc.jpg

If you use the tree's curve as in the green blank, you can get a bigger bowl, but pretty much have to oriented as the blue bowl is shown in the diagram.

[Thom Sturgill]

Someone from my old stomping grounds:cool:. I grew up in the 'Old Hollywood' section about 2 blocks from US1. Only been back once or twice since I was drafted to go to Viet Nam. :eek:

Another hint is to make some circular templates out of stiff cardboard or masonite or something with a hole in the center. Drive a nail through the hole to nail the template onto the blank and use the template as a guide to saw the blank out on the bandsaw. The nail hole gives a mark for either a screw chuck, live center or drive center as the case may be.

[john davey]

Hi Sean, I didn't seem to get the sketch but there were a couple of pictures of nice bowls there. I was in CC yesterday, just passing through as I work at NIH. Thanks, John

Hi Thom, I am in Hollywood now on Iroquois Street. The trees in out neighborhood are outgrowing the plots they are on and sadly we are going to have a lot of houses with trees on them. I guess the plus is lots of wood to turn (if I ever figure the whole process out).

I have to figure out all of the ins and outs of storing wood compared to turning it wet next. Lots of reading ahead of me....

[Sean Hughto]

Sorry, the attachment seems to have been cut - prolly too big on the first try. Here it is again.

[Sean Hughto]

If you re not turning the blanks right away, you will want to get some Anchorseal to paint on the endgrain so as to prevent checking.

If you have any questions, send me a PM. It's a local call or or a short drive!

[Steve Schlumpf]

John,

There is a simple PDF that has been floating around on the web for some time now - and it does a great job of illustrating the various ways to cut up logs. Wish I knew who to give credit to for it - but best I can do is provide a link.

http://www.northwoodturners.com/pdf/Bowl_Blanks_from_Log.pdf

[Donny Lawson]

Here is my method.Lay it on its side. Cut down beside the pith almost all the way through.Then cut off a flat side near the bark.Then finish removing the pith part. Lay it down and draw a circle and make sure you have a good center point. Take it to your bandsaw and cut it out and then this is the end result.It's ready to mount and turn or seal up with anchorsael and store for later.Hope this helps.
Donny

[john davey]

Hi Sean and Steve, thanks, the sketch and the PDF were both a great help. I find it interesting that the pith is used in many examples. I am assuming that bowls turned wet will deform a bit do to drying. I guess if turning wet this is one of the results you are looking for. For now I m going to just turn a bunch wet for practice playing with where the pith is in the blanks to see how they dry and how i like the patterns. At some point I am assuming to get nicely shaped bowls the wood needs to dry which I am guessing takes some considerable time and space to store them. More reading on that but for now I will have some fun this weekend with wet maple and see how it goes. I have already read that some people turn wet to a thick bowl and then wax that up and set aside to dry. I may try this as well.

Sean, thanks for the offer I am sure I will send a PM your way once I get into it. Thanks again, John...

[john davey]

Thanks Donny, yes pictures are always most helpful :) Out of curiosity what is the dimensions of the blank in your last picture? Thanks, John



Here is my method.Lay it on its side. Cut down beside the pith almost all the way through.Then cut off a flat side near the bark.Then finish removing the pith part. Lay it down and draw a circle and make sure you have a good center point. Take it to your bandsaw and cut it out and then this is the end result.It's ready to mount and turn or seal up with anchorsael and store for later.Hope this helps.
Donny