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View Full Version : New Design project...Bed for night tables Opinions Please!



Mark Singer
12-08-2004, 10:07 AM
With my daughter moving out of the quest house...and the bed moving with her, LOML wants a new bed to go with the Night tables I built many years ago. I posted them a while back and I will include a photo. They were originally part of a Master bedroom set I made. The bed I sold to a client when we moved..."he had to have it" and it was heavy to move. So we ended up with 2 maple and stainless steel night tables. I am looking for a design. I have a drawing attached, but I am open to suggestions. My design has been in my "pocket" for a couple of weeks now. I have revised it and I am starting to like it, but would like opinions. It will be maple of some variety. It is kind of a modern sleigh bed. What is great about the traditional sleigh bed is the comfort of the back to prop your pillow on to read or watch TV. This design presrves this aspect of the sleigh bed , however the side and front are floating over stainless legs. The stainless will help visually connect it to the night tables. I would like your opinions.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=8807&stc=1

Ted Shrader
12-08-2004, 10:21 AM
Mark -

Looks like you have the legs at the foot made from stainless steel. What about a horizontal piece of steel at the very top of the sleigh back. Not seperate, but as the top edge of the headboard.

Alternatively, use the steel as the "legs" of the headboard with the sleigh panel suspended between them on four short lengths of steel. Just as the drawer boxes on the night stand are hung.

Regards,
Ted

Bob Hovde
12-08-2004, 10:21 AM
Mark,

I like the floating design. From the side view, it looks like a curved post at the head. From the front view, the posts don't show. I would make them definite posts, because then the posts and bed sides could match the quilted maple of the nightstands, but the field of the headboard wouldn't have to match. It might be hard to find that much matching wood.

Bob

Ray Thompson
12-08-2004, 10:38 AM
The sketch indicates you are planning on using a mattress only, no box spring. Correct?

Ray

Mark Singer
12-08-2004, 10:40 AM
Ray,

That is correct. There will be a platform of spaced wood slats


The sketch indicates you are planning on using a mattress only, no box spring. Correct?

Ray

Ray Thompson
12-08-2004, 11:21 AM
Just spent the last few minutes making a sketch but I can't save it in a format that will show up unless I do a full solid model and render. I did a 2D sketch but I can only save it in iges, .dwg, and .dxf, besides the native format of the software I am using. Nuts, Nuts, Nuts - or words to that effect.

Ray

Greg Heppeard
12-08-2004, 12:32 PM
I think the design is great...my choice of maple would be a nice quilted maple...expensive but worth it I think.

Jamie Buxton
12-08-2004, 1:16 PM
Mark --

Here's two ideas for you.

* In your side view, you have the headboard coming straight up from the floor and then bending toward the wall. Instead, you could curve it toward the foot, and then back toward the wall. See the first drawing below.

* You've got the post at the edge of the headboard, which is the traditional place on a sleigh bed. However, you might consider pushing it inboard a bit, so what you primarily see is the swoop of the curved surface. (You'd probably also get to use your coopering skills too!) See the second sketch.

Jamie

Ray Thompson
12-08-2004, 7:10 PM
Here is an idea I had using the floating sort of style of the end tables. The proportions aren't quite right yet but you get the idea.

Ray

Mark Singer
12-08-2004, 8:37 PM
Ted, I may just try to incorporate some Stainless in the head board,

Jamie, I think that leg may look better , great suggestion. I will give it a try and make another sketch.

Ray, Your idea is really good too. It was what I started with,, except I am afraid of stability on the thin stainless legs. I am still thinking about it, and nice sketch!

Ray Thompson
12-08-2004, 10:00 PM
I'm not sure if I like this but it's one way around the support issue, and I agree with you on that. Kind of a modified platform style somewhat hidden by the fake legs.

Ray Thompson
12-08-2004, 10:04 PM
pic try again.

Ray Thompson
12-08-2004, 10:11 PM
Can't seem to post another pic. grrrrrrr

Anyway I had a 2" wide platform inset 5-6" to the other side with inset on the other side. With the stainless leg raised 1/4 or so for looks.

Doesn't matter what I name the file this thing tells me it is already loaded. I'm not real fond of this software.

Ray

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 2:03 PM
Mark, how about this? I borrowed Jamie's idea although I brought the post out to the same plane as the side rail of the bed. there would be a gap between the rail and the headboard post with a piece of stainless plate attaching the two on the inside face of the post.

The legs at the foot could be set in at least by the thickness of the rail.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/bed1.jpg
If you want the SKP, let me know.

Dave

Scott Coffelt
12-09-2004, 2:30 PM
Nice design, I'm kin of struggling with the wide legs towards the headboard end and the very narrow legs at the foot. Also, what about the bootm being flat no side boards? I do like the idea of bringing steel into the headboard side to tie in. Can we get a pic of the night stands?

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 2:35 PM
Dave,

Thanks great drawing...is that Sketch-up? It is very helpful and Jamie has really god ideas as well. I am kind of thinking to move the rear sleigh legs to the far edge and "cap off" the stave lay-up...I could catch it in a rabbet. That way it would be more solid looking...but I am still debating. What is SKP?

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 2:37 PM
Scott,

You missed the link:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=8807&stc=1

Nice design, I'm kin of struggling with the wide legs towards the headboard end and the very narrow legs at the foot. Also, what about the bootm being flat no side boards? I do like the idea of bringing steel into the headboard side to tie in. Can we get a pic of the night stands?

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 2:38 PM
Scott, I agree with you regarding the smaller feet at the foot of the bed. I'm also wondering about doing tubular feet to go with the nightstands. (BTW, Scott, the picture of the nightstand is linked in Mark's first post.)

I didn't draw it but I'm thing dovetails or box joints (can't tell which in the photo) should be carried to the bed rails at the corners.

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 2:41 PM
Mark, you're welcome for the drawing. It is SketchUp. SKP is the SketchUp file of the drawing. I was thinking you have SketchUp. Maybe I'm wrong?

Jim Becker
12-09-2004, 3:20 PM
Mark...I think the colaborative work so far is outstanding. It think it would be helpful to see some additional rotational views of Dave's rendering to better understand the dynamics of the piece from other angles. That would allow you to see if you really want to push the rear "legs" out to the edge or keep them inset.

But in general, I think this adaptation of the sleigh bed style would be perfect for the space and it still echos, to a certain extent, the feeling that you MBR has even though the tables are separate rather than integral to the unit. It may be good to not exagerate the "swoop" on the headboard too much since the tables are pretty simple and angular. Too much curve and they might look uncomfortable together. I'm also trying to brainstorm a way to carry just a little SS to the headboard to tie things together when the foot-end legs are not visible...

---
Dave, I've been trying to entice Mark to SketchUp!, too...

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 3:30 PM
Jim,

Dave , Jamie and Ray have really made me think...we have a lot of great designers and minds and the drawings are terrific! The front or side view would ve helpful. I am not too keen on showing the thinness of the back...I would rather let the curved leg graciously come to the ground with substance and the actuall back can be raised up as Jamie and Dave suggested.
Now guys...you must admit we are in uncharted waters...this design does not exist and we already have a good sence of scale and proportion. It is not all that hard to do something original....my back pocket (that I used to carry my sketch around in) just got bigger! Your all in it! and I really appreciate the help!

Jim Becker
12-09-2004, 3:32 PM
I am not too keen on showing the thinness of the back...I would rather let the curved leg graciously come to the ground with substance and the actuall back can be raised up as Jamie and Dave suggested.
Agree...that would restore the "signature" feature of the sleigh bed design.

Jamie Buxton
12-09-2004, 3:34 PM
Mark...It think it would be helpful to see some additional rotational views of Dave's rendering to better understand the dynamics of the piece from other angles. That would allow you to see if you really want to push the rear "legs" out to the edge or keep them inset.....
---
Dave, I've been trying to entice Mark to SketchUp!, too...

Sketchup makes a free viewer. If you (Mark) would download it, Dave could send you the 3D file instead of the simple jpeg he posted. The cool thing about the 3D file is that you get to rotate it around and look at it from all angles.

Jim Becker
12-09-2004, 3:35 PM
Sketchup makes a free viewer. If you (Mark) would download it, Dave could send you the 3D file instead of the simple jpeg he posted. The cool thing about the 3D file is that you get to rotate it around and look at it from all angles.
http://sketchup.com/viewer/ is the link for the viewer. And Mark, that would also make "our other" conversation more interesting!

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 3:45 PM
Mark, I'm happy to help. Download that free viewer so I can send you the model. Then you can look at it from all sides.

Right now I'm making so modifications. I'll post a shot soon.

Scott Coffelt
12-09-2004, 4:09 PM
OK, yep plain missed that one.

After looking at it, I am still concerned about the back. I know it's not original, but I have seen a version where the back is not curved. Mark you have obviously spent more time with deisgns and when to include curves or something different and when not to, but my gut says they don't match... just one view though. You know me I like curves.

I attached a word file since I don't have that great drawing program.

Ok that didn't work.

Scott Coffelt
12-09-2004, 4:14 PM
Not purdy and kind of lost some of the design but my basic point got across.

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 4:20 PM
Here's the first revision, Mark.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/bed2.jpg

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 4:30 PM
Okay guys ,

I downloaded it...now what? Keep in mind I am computer dumb!!! Its on my desl top...is Dave going to email me the file? Mark@marksingerarchitects.com
Thanks

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 4:32 PM
Scott,

Cool bed! But but it is different than the design intent....I think the materials and front will help visually conect to the nightsands.

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 4:39 PM
Yep, the drawing is on its way.

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 5:01 PM
Dave ,

I got it to work! You are terrific! I rotated it to a 3/4 frontal view...and it is almost there. I have designed similar beds with the thin curved back or in some cases 2 backs...I think I am looking more at a more solid side profile. With the curved 8/4 piece butressing the thinner back. Also the frame will probably be all 8/4 with exposed bridal joints. I posted my own bed , I will try to find it. That detail makes it easy to KD (take apart)...which is really important...It really looks nice and I think I will buy Sketch up...how long did the drawing take?

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 5:09 PM
Dave,

Here is my own bed ...check the front joinery , it works great and I will use it here too...I think

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=6961

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 5:12 PM
Mark, glad you got it to go. The original drawing took me maybe twenty minutes. The revisions maybe another ten because I was kind of goofing around and didn't know exactly what I wanted to do.

I think you'll find SketchUp useful for architectural applications, too. Some people use it for that, you know. :D

Have fun with it.

I'll be interested to see your drawing of your bed.

Dave

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 5:14 PM
I like that bed Mark. I remember seeing it before. I hadn't drawn the joinery at the corners but I think a bridle joint is a good idea.

Jim Becker
12-09-2004, 6:24 PM
I think I will buy Sketch up...how long did the drawing take?
Download it "now" and play with it...8 hours is "free". (in quotes because it's a trap...once you use it you'll want to buy it... :D) Also, go through the online training "videos" before you start using your time so you get the gist of what you need to do to draw effectively and quickly. You're working in three axis ALL THE TIME, so it's a little different than even most 3D CAD systems.

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 6:45 PM
Jim, you're right on the trap thing. ;)

FWIW, you don't have to work in all three axes at the same time. You can work 2D if desired. Go to the Camera menu and turn off Perspective. You'll have an isometric drawing. Then select the desired view--top, front, left side, etc.

In this mode, your lines will only be drawn in one plane.

Mark, take Jim's advice and spend some time looking at the video tutorials under Training on the SketchUp site. Feel free to ask questions if something's not clear. One of us "users" will be able to help you out.

Dave

Jim Becker
12-09-2004, 6:48 PM
FWIW, you don't have to work in all three axes at the same time. You can work 2D if desired. Go to the Camera menu and turn off Perspective. You'll have an isometric drawing. Then select the desired view--top, front, left side, etc.
Well, Go-ah-ah-ly!! I'm gonna have to try that out...thanks for the tip. The problem with any application is there are so many options and sometimes you miss one as you thrash around learning things!

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 8:03 PM
I think we are very close to a final design.....Big question though: I have time tomorrow to pick up the lumber at Austin, Should I do the back coopered from solid wood or veneer on curved laminated plywood sub core. I have done both techniques. I could buy a vacumm bag and pump since it is large. Iwould have to veneer both sides also. I would probably start with Fin Birch core ..3 layers .Make a form MDF to press into...male and female sides.....I am leaning toward the solid coopered technique. I can demonstrare the bent lamination on something else....If I chose a nice grain , I can probably make the staves blend into one piece look.....What do you think?

Jim Becker
12-09-2004, 8:08 PM
Doing a coopered assembly would result in a good lesson about grain matching and material selection...

Jamie Buxton
12-09-2004, 8:21 PM
I think we are very close to a final design.....Big question though: I have time tomorrow to pick up the lumber at Austin, Should I do the back coopered from solid wood or veneer on curved laminated plywood sub core. I have done both techniques. I could buy a vacumm bag and pump since it is large. Iwould have to veneer both sides also. I would probably start with Fin Birch core ..3 layers .Make a form MDF to press into...male and female sides.....I am leaning toward the solid coopered technique. I can demonstrare the bent lamination on something else....If I chose a nice grain , I can probably make the staves blend into one piece look.....What do you think?

If you're going to use my suggestion about moving the posts inboard, I'd go with solid planks and leave the ends exposed. If you're going to put the posts at the ends, I'd go with veneer -- something really flashy.

If you're going make a bent laminated core, you might consider using bending plywood instead of Finn ply. Bending plywood has just three plies. The middle ply is pretty thin. Because of this, it bends quite well in one axis, and doesn't fight you as much as Finn ply while you're bending it over the bending form. You can roll up 1/8" ply into a tube perhaps a foot in diameter. In fact, that's the easiest way to carry it home. When you laminate several layers together, it gets stiff enough. My local dealer carries the stuff in 3 mm, 6 mm, and 9 mm.

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 8:24 PM
If coopered it would be a good exercise in planing a smooth, fair curve. I was thinking about this part earlier. Veneer on bent ply seems like an easier way to get the smooth curved surface but I'm not certain about the ends. I guess I'd rather see end grain on the ends of the headboard as oppposed to some sort of trim added all the way around.

On the other hand, I'm certainly not good enough with a plane to smooth that large surface. I'm sure you'd do better than I would. I'm excited to see what you've come up with.

Dave

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 8:46 PM
Another idea would be to create a shell....the back would be a layer of ply and venner and the front would as well leaving a hollow center

Section thru back

Dave Richards
12-09-2004, 9:11 PM
Hollow would be good. With the curve in the surfaces, I'd guess you'd need few if any internal supports. I know that on my sailboat, the hull sides are 1/4" ply and due to the curve they are not flexible at all. Actually, the cradle boat I did has 1/8" thick planks and they won't cave in either.

I would consider putting something like fiberglass insulation inside the assembly to prevent the thing from sounding like a drum.

Joe Mioux
12-09-2004, 9:57 PM
This is another great thread, thank you Mark.

I know I am jumping in late with my comments. With that said and for the sake of my own curiosity, I don't see the continuity between the night stand and the head board. I like the arc of the head board, but the legs look heavy compared to the light - linear look of the night stand's legs.

What is the rational for the heavier looking legs? Would there be a way to incorporate the stainless legs of the night stand into the legs of the headboard?

joe

Mark Singer
12-09-2004, 11:33 PM
Joe,

Welcome to the conversation....You are correct the nightstands are lighter in feeling . There is a couple of differences though...the bed must support people as well as itself. Also the mass of the legs will be somewhat hidden by the nightstands. The sleigh back visually need the mass of the legs to justify the curved back. The front of the bed is actually very much like the nightstands...it is light...metal legs...floats over the ground with cantilevers. In this room you approach the foot of the bed and view it on the nightstands....one of the most important aspects of a design is where the object is viewed from and how it is seen ...upward, downward, oblique angle. So as the bed will be viewedin the room there appear to be strong visual connections. The heavyness of the legs is related to the back which is for comfort and will give the design a timeless character since it is taken from traditional sources. Your point is well taken...I may just lighten the leg profile.
A little side bar: during the construction of the bath cabinet...I kept a ladder nearby at all times. The reason was to view the cabinet and door alignment as it will be view in the room. I was constantly on the ladder to make sure the curves and proportions were very good from the angle they would be viewed in the room. As an architect if you approach a home from a higher street...the design of the roof may be more important than the wall elevations that are typically shown and labored over in the drawings,

Ted Shrader
12-10-2004, 11:10 AM
Mark -

".SKP" is the file extension for SketchUp files.
(Don't know if this was answered deeper in the thread or not. . . . )

Regards,
Ted

Mark Singer
12-10-2004, 11:15 AM
This forum on design is really working...I came in to this thread thinking I pretty much knew what I wanted to do , but wanted opinions...and the design is really different...I listened to Joe and was influenced by rays sketches...let me know what you think...it may not be there yet...Definitley is more in the spirit of the nightstands....and thanks too all

Kevin Arceneaux
12-10-2004, 11:23 AM
Wow, the bed looks like it will match right up to the nightstands. I cannot wait till it is built and see how far you have pushed the envelope.

I think this is one of the few times, in anything I have been involved with, that something was done by a group that didn't have the usual sniping going on. Congrats on that folks.

Mark Singer
12-10-2004, 11:28 AM
Kevin....it is unbelievable the response and number of posts and how everybodys input was valuable! I don't think the Design Forum has been used this effectivley before...You are all helping a great deal....you see design is a subject that can be discussed and has an important place in this forum! I am excited about all the future projects...a lot of wonderful talented people here!
Wow, the bed looks like it will match right up to the nightstands. I cannot wait till it is built and see how far you have pushed the envelope.

I think this is one of the few times, in anything I have been involved with, that something was done by a group that didn't have the usual sniping going on. Congrats on that folks.

Dave Richards
12-10-2004, 12:41 PM
Mark, I like your new design. I'm curious about what's going on between the top and bottom parts of the rail.

It looks to me as if you've got tubular legs now. These seem more in line with the nightstands but I think they need to be larger in diameter. Not too much or they'll look kind of squat. I'm also wondering about the stability on those legs.

I have an idea of a way to improve the stability and still leave the skinny legs but I hate to bring it up. I'm afraid it would spoil the light look of the piece.

Jim Becker
12-10-2004, 1:09 PM
Hmmm...I like the direction you're going, Mark. It still has the hint of the traditional sleigh bed but has now moved much closer to "family" with the tables. Very kewel...

Joe Mioux
12-10-2004, 9:04 PM
Mark:

I really like your drawing. I see continuity between the legs of the night stand and the bed. Additionally, you have a very good - strong and solid - foundation for the bed.

this is fun!
Joe

Dave Richards
12-10-2004, 10:01 PM
With Mark's permission I'm posting the drawing I worked out from his dimensions. I think he'd still like input on it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/NewBed.jpg
Here is a side view:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/NewBedSide.jpg

Mark, I have lowered the top edge of the headboard by 2" from the drawing I sent you earlier. It now extends 13" above the top of the mattress.

I don't think it was ever mentioned but this is for a queen-sized mattress. Perhaps that will help with the scale of the bed. The legs are 1" dia stainless as are the supports for the headboard.

Joe Mioux
12-10-2004, 10:42 PM
Dave:

I think you have refined Mark's drawing. You made the bed lighter in appearance. The night stand is light and your bed is also light. Your drawing of the bed compliments the night stand, while not copying its structure. When I use the word compliment, I mean that the weight (in appearance) of the bed is in scale with the weight of the night stand.

.

Jim Becker
12-11-2004, 12:23 AM
I agree with Joe, this is really coming together. 'Wish we could bottle this!!

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 2:14 AM
Great job Dave, I hope I can find a thinner mattress that is comfortable...that is the one thing that seems heavy and awkward. I measured ours and it is very thick(Chathum and Wells) and that uis where I got the dimension. Your comments have been real helpful and this thread has been very productive. I have gained a lot of insight and as you can see the design evolved in a positive way. It has been a real team effort and I feel my part has just been to listen to all the voices that emerged in response to my initial design sketch. Dave's drawings have been very helpful as well as the commentary from all the members. I think a bit of tweaking is in order, but that can happen during the construction phase.

I did make it to Austin Hardwoods today and purchased some very nice curly maple! I had to buy 4/4 to get more figure and a much better price. I did buy 1 nice piece of 8/4 for the back. So I will need to laminate the bed rails from 4/4...the backer piece is plain hard maple. (Doesn't show) I don't know how much will get done tomorrow, I have a wedding to attend and a very messy shop full of very dull tools. The hard maple will probably seem soft after the Shedua! I am planning to document the construction as with the bath cabinet....It should be pretty informative since it is multi media using the stainless. There is also the opportunity for unusual joinery...I am not quite sure where that will go. The beauty of these projects is that the SMC community can see them start as an idea, evolve to a final design and then all the details, connections choice of tools and order of tasks can be observed as construction begins.
I think this should help and encouage many of you to think about planning your own projects....and if you have questions...there is quite the team here to lend assistance...Thanks again!

Joe Mioux
12-11-2004, 7:54 AM
Mark:


Great job Dave, I hope I can find a thinner mattress that is comfortable...that is the one thing that seems heavy and awkward. I measured ours and it is very thick(Chathum and Wells) and that uis where I got the dimension.
From Dave's drawing, I see that the mattress is recessed slightly. Can the mattress be lowered deeper into the bed frame without weakening the bed frame? Lowering the mattress would hide some of its mass.

Also, in Dave's drawing he colored the mattress blue. I realize that the blue color was for reference with regards to the drawing, but it also makes the mattress look heavier in the drawing. Lighter colored linens will also lighten the mass of the bed mattress.

Dave Richards
12-11-2004, 8:46 AM
Mark, thank you.

Joe, blue might not have been the best color for the mattress. How about a light green?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/green.jpg

As to setting the mattress deeper, there's not much room. I drew the mattress to Mark's dimensions with 8" of mattress exposed. I don' know if the mattress as drawn is right. As far as dropping it into the frame farther, there's not much left.

I drew a 1x1 rail on the inside on which 1x2 slats sit to support the mattress. So the bottom of the mattress is 2" from the bottom edge of the side rails.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/nomat.jpg

Joe Mioux
12-11-2004, 9:04 AM
Dave: Now the bed looks like a big Chicklet. :eek: How about Celedon green. Mint green reminds of '70's style rainbow wedding dresses, lol:eek: :D

Jim Becker
12-11-2004, 9:06 AM
The good news is that the room the bed will reside in will work with almost any color!

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 9:07 AM
Dave, Joe,

I remeasured the matress...It loooks like total depth is 9 " and it will go 4 1/2" into the frame (1 1/2 " for ledger and slats) So about 4 1/2 to 5 " is projected above....I think I gave you a wrong dimension. It tends to be thiner on the edge and fatter a few inches in. Dave I would lower it to 5" above the rail If its not too much trouble.

Dave Richards
12-11-2004, 9:34 AM
Joe, sorry about the mint green. What's celedon green? Celedon? What's that? A dinosaur? :D

Mark, I made the slats and the inner rail 3/4" thick, dropped the slats onto the inner rail and made the mattress 9" thick. I changed the color for Joe while I was at it.

I did not change the headboard, though. I kind of like it like this. I was thinking that I might be inclined to leave a fitted sheet on the mattress but store top shet, blanket and piloows when the bed is not in use. That would help to keep the bed looking light.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/NewBedthin.jpg

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 9:41 AM
Dave , that looks great! The total thickness of the support should be 1 1/2" that is 3/4 " slats (poplar) on a 3/4" ledger. I am a bit afraid to run a half lap rabett on both and try to do it in 3/4" but it is posibble. Thanks for the updated drawing.

Keith Cope
12-11-2004, 10:05 AM
Mark, you may want to consider recessing the legs at the foot of the bed a bit. My .02 would be to use tube SS and set back equidistant from side and foot rails. Not much, though--you don't want to lose sight of that element.

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 10:37 AM
Ken,
I am sorry , but I am not understanding?


Mark, you may want to consider recessing the legs at the foot of the bed a bit. My .02 would be to use tube SS and set back equidistant from side and foot rails. Not much, though--you don't want to lose sight of that element.

Dave Richards
12-11-2004, 11:15 AM
Mark, I don't think I'd do the rabbet as you've shown. As drawn in the last version, I have a total thickness (slats and ledger) of 1-1/2" like you suggest.

How do you feel about the bottom edge of the headboard being exposed?

Dave

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 11:41 AM
Dave,

I agree we need the strength. The headboard exposed at the bottom looks great. I think I may want to arch the top gently like the back of many clairs.

Jamie Buxton
12-11-2004, 1:07 PM
Dave & Mark --
I've talked with somebody who has a bed with a platform that extends perhaps 8" past the mattress edge. She said that for the first few months she had it, she was continually barking her shins on the platform. I'm not sure I'd build a broad platform extension like your drawings.

Jamei

Dave Richards
12-11-2004, 1:23 PM
Jamie, our bed is like that, too. It only took me once and I give it a wider berth when I walk around it. I think ours is wider than Mark's got planned.

Mark, how about this?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/newbed2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/headboard.jpg

I didn't put a radius on the edge of the headboard. That will take a little more time.

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 1:46 PM
Jamie,

I think your right...I will keep it as tight as possible , about 3 1/4" ..

Dave,
I pictured the arch flatter , not so pronounced....about half as much arch...

Thanks all!

Jim Becker
12-11-2004, 2:55 PM
An arched "sleigh" profile is gonna have some pretty awesome compound curvatures!

Mark Singer
12-11-2004, 5:35 PM
Jim,

Spokeshave....It may not look like (beard) but I love to shave!:D

Dave Richards
12-11-2004, 7:50 PM
Reduce curve on the top. Linen change, too. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/newbed3.jpg

Joe Mioux
12-11-2004, 8:37 PM
Dave, good call on the color, LOL

Robert Ducharme
12-11-2004, 10:26 PM
Good ideas on the designs. Enjoyed this thread.

All that is missing is the post/hole to insert the beer holder for when you are sitting in bed looking at the football game :)

Mark Singer
12-12-2004, 12:20 AM
Dave,
Good call on the color! I really like it! I will give it a bit of character, I hope in building that can't really be shown on the drawings...Beautiful job!
Thanks,


Reduce curve on the top. Linen change, too. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/newbed3.jpg

Dave Richards
12-12-2004, 6:08 AM
Mark, this has been a fun exercise. Thanks for letting me give the input. The design process is very interesting. I can see how it is easy to get locked into thinking one way until someone gives you a poke in the backside that sends you off in a slightly different direction.

I'll definitely be interested in seeing the your bed as it develops.

Dave

Mark Singer
12-12-2004, 7:26 AM
Dave,

I can't begin to tell you how helpful you have been. Great drawings are a key to visualizing the design. Your input was very important and I really enjoyed working with you and the rest of the team, Joe, Ray, Jim Becker and others.
Imagine, just a short while ago , when I started the long thread on design, several said this was a difficult subject to discuss in a forum..."Too personal, and many other claims that failed to be true. This was probably one of the best efforts on SMC where members joined in to dramaticly improve the final result...no featers were ruffled...every single post was honestly directed at improving the design. You were an instrumental part of that....the downside is now I don't need to buy Sketch Up....I have Dave!:D I really want to thank you.

Dave Richards
12-12-2004, 7:35 AM
Why aren't you asleep? :)

Mark, I'm really glad to be able to contribute.

You are correct regarding the working together. It was a pleasure to see that it is possible for a group to work together with out anyone becoming overly emotional.

FWIW, this project gave me a bit of motivation to get out in the shop yesterday and actually make something. In between bed revisions I managed to make a little box in maple, walnut and cherry as a Christmas gift for my sister. Thanks for that.

Let me know when you're ready to do the next project. ;)

Dave

Mark Singer
12-12-2004, 9:52 AM
Dave,

Your correct I should have been sleeping ...I did go back after the posting.
Can you email the last bed image...I want to print it and hang it in the shop while I am working

Mark Blumer
12-12-2004, 5:23 PM
Reading this thread has been one of my most educational experiences since I started reading woodworking forums (of course that was when they used smoky fires and blankets to send the messages). I'm really looking forward to the construction progress notes.

Thanks everyone!

Mark Blumer (East Lansing, MI)

Joe Mioux
12-12-2004, 5:52 PM
Dave, Mark, and everyone who contributed:


Dave,

I can't begin to tell you how helpful you have been. Great drawings are a key to visualizing the design. Your input was very important and I really enjoyed working with you and the rest of the team, Joe, Ray, Jim Becker and others.
Imagine, just a short while ago , when I started the long thread on design, several said this was a difficult subject to discuss in a forum..."Too personal, and many other claims that failed to be true. This was probably one of the best efforts on SMC where members joined in to dramaticly improve the final result...no featers were ruffled...every single post was honestly directed at improving the design. You were an instrumental part of that....the downside is now I don't need to buy Sketch Up....I have Dave!:D I really want to thank you.
This was a really fun and educational thread and I'm looking forward to seeing the project progress

Best to all
Joe