First staved vessel - completed

[Thom Sturgill]

I was requested to post pictures of this when I got it finished, so here it is. The insert in the inside of the top is a pewter button. When I originally planned this, only the top portion of the finial was going to show and the finial would be glued in from the inside. I was showing it to my wife and she was fairly ho-hum about the finial. I set the finial on top of the lid and walked over to my chair and she exclaimed, "Now that is what it needs!" I agreed, it needed the visual mass on top. So I worked on the 'waste block' and mounted it from the top. That left a large recess that I had already turned on the inside, so I filled it with dyed epoxy and the button.

Finish is lacquer, wet 'sanded' to 8000. I will further polish when the lacquer has fully cured. The inside is buffed with steel wool for a satin finish. This is a prototype and there are several errors. I did not even think about the alignment of the top ring on the base at the time I glued it, as we were leaving for the day and I was rushing a bit (after months of planning and waiting for the steady rest! Also three of the wedges in the top section are upside down in relation to the others. Even so, I am very satisfied with my first attempt.

As always comments and critique are welcome.

[Roger Chandler]

Woo hoo! Beautiful! Staving is one of the techniques that I want to learn!

[David DeCristoforo]

That came out really nice. I am working on developing "patience" but I'm not sure I'm there yet. Not for something like that anyway. I also like the "button" in the lid.

[David Walser]

Thom,

That's a very nice vessel. I can't wait to see the "real" version. I think you got the proportions just right. Well done.

[Doug Reesor]

Very nice job.

Doug

[Bernie Weishapl]

Beautiful piece Thom. Really nicely done.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Thom,

I really like it.

What kind of woods did you use? I really like they way they appear to compliment each other without either overpowering the other.

[Thom Sturgill]

Thom,

I really like it.

What kind of woods did you use? I really like they way they appear to compliment each other without either overpowering the other.

Ken the piece is rather plain maple from the BORG and cherry.

[David E Keller]

I think it's beautiful. I love the button insert... It's such a nice surprise. I wish some of my finished turnings were as nice as your prototype.

[John Hart]

"Stately" is the word that came to my mind. Your style is very appealing Thom. Nicely done.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Thom, looks great. I do however have some concerns about the cross-grain joinery. Keeping everything going the same direction is pretty important for long-term stability.

[Baxter Smith]

Looks great. As the cherry darkens, the greater contrast should make it look even better!

[Steve Schlumpf]

That sure turned out nice! Very clean and even has an Art Deco feel to it. I guess it is because of the finial - but the piece reminds me a little of the Empire State Building! Pretty cool!

Very nice work - especially the joinery!

[Michelle Rich]

I was going to caution on the joinery, but eagle eyes Malcolm beat me to it..For a first stave vessel it is Outstanding!! Very pretty & listen to your wife!!

[John Keeton]

Thom, the final product looks really nice!! Malcolm has a point on the crossgrain issues, but one never knows - it may do fine. Quite honestly, as a former flatworker (reformed!:)) I am amazed at most of the segmented and staved work I see. Some of it violates all the rules and still holds together! Just goes to show you - wood is unpredictable.

[Thom Sturgill]

As a one-time luthier, every violin, guitar, etc you've ever seen has cross-grain joinery. As long as face-grain meets face-grain you can get a strong joint. ( After all plywood does not tear itself apart.) All wood used in this piece is kiln dried and the piece is finished inside and out with a film type finish, while musical instruments are left raw inside and so are much more susceptible to changes in humidity.

That said, the base is epoxied, which provides a repairable, flexable joint at the cost of a more visible glue line.

The expansion in circumference at the base should be less than .045" (assuming 10% change in humidity) and is only meaningful on two points where it would be less than half that. I think the epoxy should hold. The base is set into a mortice. The top ring of the base has almost 3/8" width of cross-grain around the circumference.

As to the top, unfortunately that is end grain to face grain. The Finial is glued two points and floats on top, the bottom is epoxy which should maintain enough flexibility. The next piece will probably have a single piece of bubinga + the finial for the top. I just have to find some matching woods this weekend while I'm in NC.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Thom, my cross-grain comment was directed to towards the top rim. One solution is to create a segmented ring with vertical grain (a very short staved cylinder). Then instead of just gluing it on which would result in an end-grain to end-grain joint, turn a half lap on the two pieces and join the two pieces much like a box lid. By doing so, you can have side-grain to side-grain within the vessel wall for strength and also maintain consistent grain direction.

[Paul Douglass]

I am really in love this piece. Nice work.

[Mark Hubl]

Thom,

Very nice. I think it came out quite well and I love the button save. Good job.

[Joe Herrmann]

Very nice job!!

[Thom Sturgill]

Thom, my cross-grain comment was directed to towards the top rim. One solution is to create a segmented ring with vertical grain (a very short staved cylinder). Then instead of just gluing it on which would result in an end-grain to end-grain joint, turn a half lap on the two pieces and join the two pieces much like a box lid. By doing so, you can have side-grain to side-grain within the vessel wall for strength and also maintain consistent grain direction.

It is a half-lap, but I should have oriented it differently. I *think* it will be OK based on size, but this IS a learning piece. I started to make it out of poplar, then looked at the Jordan quote on the T-shirt I was wearing and bought some maple.

I was careful to lap the maple ring on the top, its not thick but should give *some* support to the end-grain joints there. Next time I may orient that differently too, or just use a monolithic (monolignic?) design.

[Keith Burns]

Thom this is a very nice piece, especially for your first. I like the button in the lid, nice touch. I am no expert on segmenting but I have done several with a diameter in the 6" range with cross grain joints and have not had one fail. Nothing wrong with planning though.

[Steve Peterson]

I really like the way it transitions from Maple with Cherry to Cherry with Maple.

Steve