Utility trailer for wood hauling

[Tim Thomas]

I have an old pickup truck that doesn't get enough use to justify keeping it. Every time I try to start it up the battery is dead and I have to wait and charge it. The only thing I really use it for is the occasional trip to my local lumber yard or for getting bulky items from the BORG. Anyway, I'm thinking of getting rid of the truck, putting a trailer hitch on my SUV and getting a utility trailer for hauling stuff. Does anybody here have experience with hauling wood this way and is there anything in particular I should look for in a trailer? Pretty much my only criteria is I want something big enough to hold full sheets of plywood laid flat.

This one I think would do fine:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/trailers-towing/trailers/utility-trailers/carry-on-trailer-reg-mesh-floor-trailer-1-625-lb-capacity-1090202

And this one might work if the drop gate is removable. Plywood would hang out the back by about 16 inches, but I would think that would be OK as long as I put a good strap around it.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/carry-on-trailer-reg-mesh-floor-trailer-1650-lb-capacity-1000231

Anybody got a strong opinion on this or is it pretty much a no-brainer and I'm over-thinking it as usual.

[Kirk Poore]

Get something with at least an 8' bed. Loading will be much easier and you won't have to worry about stuff sliding off the back. Also, I borrowed my neighbor's 8x4 several times, and the mesh bottom always seemed flimsy. When I bought a 10 x 5 I went with a wood floor, and it's much better. It's stronger, and water from wet roads won't get your stuff wet--or at least not through the floor.

Get a spare tire. It's the best way to be sure you won't have any flats.:)

Many trailer places sell hardware for additional tie-down points. They're cheap, and really handy.

Kirk

[Dave Wagner]

Any of the 5'x10' trailers would work good. A solid floor is much nicer, especially if you have to slide something.

[Jim Rimmer]

I don't have personal experience with utility trailers but have seen a few things here in the greater Houston area i would watch out for:

1. Overloading - I have seen more than one trailer with a broken axle because they were overloaded. Sounds like you won't be hauling heavy loads but the trailers you posted were only rated at 1650#.

2. I see a lot of folks hauling down the highway at 70 MPH with those little bitty tires and it just doesn't look safe to me. Either get bigger wheels or hold your speed down.

[Stew Hagerty]

+1 on 8' bed. You don't want to end up kicking yourself for getting the shorter one.

[Steve Vaughn]

I would check Craig's list. You can get more trailer for the same or cheaper. Here's an example I just searched in your area.

http://bham.craigslist.org/for/1875565990.html

Steve

[Jeff Gunter]

When my truck hit end-of-life -- I went the same way, trailer behind some sort of family/person hauler. Built the trailer rather than bought. Some things I would throw into the mix:
1) two axles is generally a good thing -- even if you have a flat you can limp along to get safely off the road. Even if you have heavier axles you can generally register a trailer for lighter loading (for example, I have a 3,000# registration, but the axles will go much heavier than that). Check your state to make sure they don't care about that. I've never registered a trailer and had any question about the actual axle capacity. That being said, if you register at 3,000 don't go over that on the road. And yes, having two axles and two sets of tires will reduce the load you can carry w/o being over. But nobody cares about your weight if you are moving things around your own property if that matters (firewood from the woods to the wood pile etc).
2) Build or find a trailer with sides that match the size of a common model pickup. Then if you stumble across an old truck topper you can clamp it fast to the trailer and have covered hauler. If you need to haul something tall pull topper off. Old toppers can often be found cheap or free, and long-box toppers will cover 4x8 sheet goods. If you don't want to have a flat bed and an enclosed trailer then IMHO this is a good compromise.

[Tim Thomas]

Lots of good advice on here. Thanks for the input everyone.

I went to Tractor Supply at lunch to see their trailers for myself, and each one had its advantages/drawbacks.

The one that is only 4 x 7 will not work because it doesn't look like I could easily remove the drop gate for hauling full sheets of plywood, so that is out. The 5 x 8 model looks OK, but is getting a bit pricey.

They did also have a "No Floor" trailer that is 4 x 8. Looks like it is designed for you to build your own box for it. This might be the way for me to go as I think I could put a solid wood floor on it and build some sides for much cheaper than the 5 x 8 and I would have a solid floor, not the wire mesh.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/trailers-towing/trailers/utility-trailers/carry-on-trailer-reg-no-floor-trailer-1000215

Of course, I will look at the used market too, but I like to look at the new stuff first to give me an idea of what I am even looking for. That Craig's list posting is already gone. Must have been a good deal.

So, final question (I hope): Does anybody have experience with building a floor/sides for a trailer frame like the one in the link above. It seems like it would be pretty straightforward.

[Jim Rimmer]

I have always been very leary of used utility trailers. Why are they getting rid of it? Overloaded and cracked the axle? Cracked tongue? New ones are so cheap that the ued market is dubious at best.

[David Nelson1]

I recently bought a used utility trailer with 10.000 TGVW. It has the electric brake set up but no controller or back up battery. My truck is a F350 single rear tire configuration. The curb weight of the truck full of gas is 7200 lbs. and has a heavy duty braking system.

I recon my point is don't buy something that weighs (when loaded) more than your tow vehicle and if you do make certain it has brakes. I have scrared myself more time than once before I learned this.

[Luther Oswalt]

"two axles and two sets of tires will reduce the load you can carry w/o being over" ... I think you mean to say ... Tandem Axles normally increase the capacity of the trailer ... because they will and that is why you see them used so much. ... as stated above the heavier you get the requirements change ... Brakes ... Tow Vehicle capabilities etc., There is a cut off point before getting into all of this so it is best you contact your state Dept. of Transportation since they are the ones most concerned about this. Trailer Dealers don’t always have the correct answers. Electric brakes are good, but bring on other items, such as controllers. Remember, as the trailer capacity increases the trailer gets the more involved! With the trailors you have indicated an interest in you should not have any problems with an SUV towing them.
Leo

[Dave Lehnert]

If you don't use one much rent one from U-Haul.
I ran a retail garden center for years and customers would rent pick up's and trailers from U-Haul and I remeber the cost was almost nothing for the day. ($35)
But if you don't have one close to you that would be more trouble.

[harry boyer]

I bought the 4x7 trailer from Tractor Supply. They were on sale around father's day. It has the same grosss wt. cap. of most of the other samller ones they sell. In hind sight I would think about length more than floor style. I just carried some 12ft 4x4 walnut . Problem was that I couldn't get too close to the back of the car to make a turn radius, and had a bunch of weight way back on the trailer. It was fine until I got up to about 35 mph and started to bounce a little. Then the hitch seemed to ride at the top of the ball and the trailer started to wobble pretty bad. Scared the heck out of me. I also don't like how the liscense plate is attached on the small trailer. I'm sure I'll bend it if I'm not real careful.

I think I'll be fine now that I've learned how to use this trailer. Gonna take a saw with me when I go to the lumber mill. As an aside I bought 23 4x4 12 ft. long walnut posts for $150 ( no pic. no wood, I get it!) The saw man there used a chainsaw to give me a hand on the 2nd loar. !0ft. is just ok with me. I'm making chairs and benches. Lots of times the mill guys have a shed where they store and air dry a bunch of really nice stuff. I happen to like figured walnut and find it more in the #1&2 common rather than the clear grade. I also bought poplar (junk to them) @ $.30 per sq ft. I'll get a bunch of clear out of 90 ft. Play dumb and pull that trailer on up. Buy in rags and sell all dressed up.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I'll echo other's sentiments- get a wood bed. You can nail or screw down your load, and it handles point loads better than mesh.

I have a 5x8 with a 2000lb axle, ramp tailgate, and 12" wheels. I've used it for a lot of stuff, and its always treated me well. All I've had to do to it is replace the taillights- because I broke them by backing into stuff, and I repack the bearings every year. I've probably put 5000 miles on this trailer. I'm on my second set of tires.

Get high speed rated trailer tires and get them balanced, and you won't have a problem. Balancing makes a huge difference. They don't come that way.

[Jim Becker]

I opted for a 5' x 8' Loadrite utility trailer. It can handle 2100 lbs of load over it's own weight and without sides, etc., it's easy to get materials on and off it. (I can put removable sides on if I decided I want them. This trailer wasn't one of the inexpensive options on my short list, but I liked it the best overall of everything I looked at.

[Van Huskey]

My suggestion is 5x10 with a wood floor and as someone mentioned get a spare. I do like tandem axles BUT if you don't use it much it may be hard to justify the cost. Over time pay CLOSE attention to the tires people that don't use their trailers often tend to look at the tires see lots of tread and forget tires have a limited life whether they get used or not.

[G. Brad Schmidt]

At the risk of disclosing my incessant scouting for all that is frugal...

Our local Borg gives the first 75 minutes truck rental for FREE with the purchase of >$100 with your Borg credit card. This deal is good for one week following your purchase.

After making the $100+ purchase (usually sheet goods and lumber) we head to customer service for the truck rental.
While my wife is filling out the contract/paperwork I'm loading up the rental.
On more than one occasion I've had time to make dump runs or shop at other lumber yards for supplies. I have yet to go over the allotted 75 min.


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[Matt Day]

I guess I'm more "budget concious" (aka cheap!) than the rest of you. I had a folding 4'x8' trailer from Harbor Freight that I bought for like $230. Put a piece of pressure treated ply down and it worked great. Fit full size sheets of plywood, I could put 2x4 stakes on it and haul all kinds of stuff. If I had more money for one, I would have gotten a nicer 5'x10' one, but I had less than $300 after registering and all into it. I sold it for $200 before I moved West.

[Ed Beers]

Lots of good advice on here. Thanks for the input everyone.

I went to Tractor Supply at lunch to see their trailers for myself, and each one had its advantages/drawbacks.

The one that is only 4 x 7 will not work because it doesn't look like I could easily remove the drop gate for hauling full sheets of plywood, so that is out. The 5 x 8 model looks OK, but is getting a bit pricey.



I'm not familiar with this specific trailer but it is common for the drop gate to fold flat forward onto the bed to allow loading overhanging materials. You might want to give it a second look.

Double axle trailers do have advantages but not, I think, for you. Among their downsides:

1) higher cost
2) higher weight
3) twice as many tires to replace which you should do periodically.
4) higher GVW which will likely require you to install a braking controller in your vehicle to be legal
5) may also require a breakaway battery which is another maintenance expense.
6) more expensive hitches if not already equipped
7) it is much harder to push these trailers around by hand as the tandem tires resist turning

[Josh Reet]

I guess I'm more "budget concious" (aka cheap!) than the rest of you. I had a folding 4'x8' trailer from Harbor Freight that I bought for like $230. Put a piece of pressure treated ply down and it worked great. Fit full size sheets of plywood, I could put 2x4 stakes on it and haul all kinds of stuff. If I had more money for one, I would have gotten a nicer 5'x10' one, but I had less than $300 after registering and all into it. I sold it for $200 before I moved West.

Reading through this thread, I was beginning to feel like I was going to be alone in saying the same thing.

Get the version with the 12in wheels and make sure you keep the bearings packed with grease (good advice with any trailer). Use locktite on the bolts when you assemble the thing. Get some split loam for the wires to run through. Mine has served me well since my '78 f250 moved on to greener pastures. If I were being more of a heavy duty users, I might have been interested in spending more. But I don't haul dirtbikes every weekend or run a lawn care business. Though to be fair, I know a pile of motorcycle/fishing/etc guys who have owned versions of this trailer and ran the hell out of them at what I would consider to be unsafe speeds to get to bike shows or fishing spots with the pontoon and so on. The trailers have held up fine and always been the least of their worries.

If you've got the cash, go buy a nice welded trailer. But for what I wanted a trailer for, I couldn't come close to touching anything better for the money I paid for the HF one. It takes crap to the dump, helps friends pick up new appliances, hauls wood, and takes yard care waste to the city compost place. Works for me.

This link is worth reading for anyone looking at the HF trailers. The guy who wrote it up obviously knows a bit about welding and made a few modifications, particularly to make the thing easier to fold up). But there's still good info for non-fabrication types:

http://www.links4jeeps.com/forum/write-ups-jeep-projects/harbor-freight-folding-trailer-build-mod-write-up/

[Jim Andrew]

I built a 5 x 9 trailer from some recycled angle iron and other parts laying around my junk pile, and made it to use as a 4 wheeler/ lawnmower hauling trailer, but also use it to haul lumber. The way I built it was to pull a pin at the front so the bed angles down to the ground to load the 4 wheeler, then drive it on and it pushes the front down and I put the pin back in and drive away. I just put a 2x6 flat across the back, it has rails, and tie with wire and stack lumber across the rails that is longer. I have hauled 16' 2x4's but have to be careful as long stuff sticks out the back farther than the front. Loaded heavy limits my speed to about 35 mph. But sheets of ply hardly limit my speed at all. And I can pull this thing with my old 91 Toyota pickup.

[Steve Rowe]

Clearly you need a multi-purpose vehicle such as this:D:D:D;

[Josiah Bartlett]

I'm not familiar with this specific trailer but it is common for the drop gate to fold flat forward onto the bed to allow loading overhanging materials. You might want to give it a second look.

Double axle trailers do have advantages but not, I think, for you. Among their downsides:

1) higher cost
2) higher weight
3) twice as many tires to replace which you should do periodically.
4) higher GVW which will likely require you to install a braking controller in your vehicle to be legal
5) may also require a breakaway battery which is another maintenance expense.
6) more expensive hitches if not already equipped
7) it is much harder to push these trailers around by hand as the tandem tires resist turning

Another option to consider are the registration fees in your state. In Oregon, utility trailers under 1800lbs don't need any sort of title or registration. Trailers over 8000 gvw require heavy trailer registration, and vehicle with truck plates to tow it with or a weight-mile trip permit. Your state will have varying laws and fees.

[Darrell Bade]

I would look at a trailer sales place instead of TSC, farm store or Borg. You generally get more for your money from the trailer shopping I have done.

I would get a wood floor and the biggest tires you can.

I would also get a 10' trailer if you are going to haul much over 8'. I have put long stuff on my 8" trailer and as one other poster said the trailer will push the vehicle around without much weight on the tongue and it is dangerous. If I haul anything long I use my pick up for this reason but you are getting rid of yours. I am also looking for a 10-12' trailer right now for this reason.

[Nathan Yeager]

I purchased one of these folding trailers a few years ago for my occasioanl trips to the lumber yard that require more space than my SUV. I am limited on space and this easily folds up and stores in the 3 feet of space between my house and fence. It has been very handy. Easily built wooden deck and removeable walls to be used as necessary.

It appears they don't sell my model any longer as mine was actually red and $200 cheaper.

http://www.redtrailers.com/ShowTrailer.asp?id=1