shooting boards

[Zahid Naqvi]

:confused: :confused: :confused: I am in the process making a box as a gift and in doing so had the need to make mitre joints. I being a neander, mostly, don't have a mitre saw or a band saw, and my table saw is not accurate enough to trust for small projects like these. Besides I wanted to exercise my neander muscles. So I made a couple of shooting boards to cut 45 degree mitres. Had a few obstacles along the way and I was wondering how others tackle these issues.

1. It is real hard to get a precise 45 degree on a shooting board, and you don't discover the accuracy, or lack of it, until after you have assembled four pieces and then try to connect them into a square or rectangle. I was able to correct some of the inaccuracies by inserting shims against the support to increase or decrease the angle of the work piece.

2. I made a second shooting board which allowed me to shave corners at 45 degrees for making the case. It is rather difficult to explain verbally, perhaps the attached line drawing may help, excuse the funky colors and some drawing lethargy. The work piece is blue and the hand plane rides on the 45 degree board with the blade facing the work piece. Same problem here accuracy can only be determined after four pieces are cut and assembled.

3. The only planes I could get to work on these shooting boards was the #7 jointer plane. I was under the impression that I would be able to use my block plane, which just didn't have enought momentum to handle the work. It may be due to the fact that I was working on lacewood.

So any ideas on how to make shooting boards like #1 and #2, and which plane do you guys use on your shooting boards.

[Leif Hanson]

I've used shims - card stock, mostly - before. I need to make myself something a bit more permanent than what I have. So - I'll just point you to these sites, if you aren't aware of them, that have some interesting plans/pictures/discussions for shooting boards and miter jacks... if you have seen them, my apologies.

http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/planeindex.htm

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/wwmitrejack.html

http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/benchacc.htm

http://www.ilovewood.com/handmade_woodworking_tools.htm

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=11035

http://www.ilovewood.com/handmade_woodworking_tools.htm

http://www.diynet.com/diy/tl_saws/article/0,2037,DIY_14394_2270255,00.html

HTH
Leif

[Marc Hills]

Hi Zahid:

If it makes you feel any better, I too struggle with cutting precise, gap-free miters. I think it's one of those galootish challenges that is deceptively difficult to master. I cheat, in a sense, by using a Jorgenson "Professional" model compound miter saw. But even that isn't nearly as precise as I would like.

If I follow your drawing, and your need, I think what you want is a miter jack:

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/wwmitrejack.html

I would think that unless you have a tremendous amount of skill in using a block plane to make minute adjustments to saw-cut miters, the bigger the bench plane the better. For precisely the reasons you mention: mass and momentum. Of course the tool of choice is a miter plane, but if you're like me, you're about as likely to luck into one of those as you are a Speirs infill smoother.

Others with more experience may be able to offer you better advice, but something along the lines of a miter jack and a largish bench plane seems like a reasonable way to go.

HTH

[Bob Smalser]

My needs climbing up and down a ladder are a bit different than cabinet makers working at a bench.

Haven't done much with it yet, but I suspect I'm gonna much prefer this new 45-90 miter jack I cobbled together instead.


http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/75121185.jpg

Plans are here:

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/wwmitrejack.html

[Steve Wargo]

I mark them with a marking knife and the saw them with a back saw. I use a 45 deg angled block attached to my bench hook and take very light passes. The key is to get at least pretty close with the back saw and just clean up the joint with the block plane. I have a #9 as well but usually only use it on larger pieces. Another important key is to make certain that you 45 degree angle that your shooting to is dead on accurate. I usually replace it after a project or two because I will dig in to it every so offen. I hope this helps.