My first gloat ....

[Tim Boger]

I ran across a posting on Craigslist reading:

"I'm no longer woodworking. My carefully used Ulmia work bench is for sale or trade"

I responded complementing the look and apparent quality of the bench shown in the picture (http://www.audubonstrings.com/store/product_info.php/products_id/22931)his link led to. I suggested it was out of my price range, he ask me to make an offer so I threw out $250 and figured I'd not hear back from him ... low and behold he asked me to come and get it tomorrow morning.

I hope it's in nice condition, he say's I'll not be disappointed .... pics to follow. Sounds like a deal to me!

Tim

[George Sanders]

Now THAT'S a gloat! :eek: I sure hope you get it.

[Tim Boger]

Good Morning George,

My plan is to meet the seller this morning and have a look, if it's not in horrible condition I'll likely bring it home.

I will post pics if I get it.

Thanks for the reply.

Tim

[Jim Belair]

At 10% of retail it would be hard to imagine what kind of shape it would be in that wouldn't be worth refurbishing. Look forward to seeing the pics.

Jim B

[Andrew Gibson]

I would think it would be worth it for the vises. Can't wait to see pics!

[Tim Boger]

I got it!!! Dang thing sure is heavy, luckily the top lifts off the legs, just the top alone felt like it weighed 200lbs.

There is some damage from hand sawing in one area right in the center at the front edge, I'm going to give the top a bit of sanding to clean it up, what sort of finish do you all think would best match the factory finish?

I'll take some pictures before I start on it and some after, I figure to get it cleaned up adequately this afternoon.

Tim

[gary Zimmel]

We'll just call the saw damage a "battle scar"....
Looking forward to seeing pics of the beast.

[Tim Boger]

Here's some before pics of the new bench, since these pictures were taken this morning I've sanded the top real well and did a so so job on all the remaining surfaces. I've also used a wood filler to patch what remained of the saw damage plus about 2 dozen small finish nail holes.

Looks great so far! Now I'm going to have to clean up my shop some to replace several existing make shift benches with this new one.

I'm also looking for recommendations for a finishing product.

Tim

[Jim Koepke]

Here's some before pics of the new bench, since these pictures were taken this morning I've sanded the top real well and did a so so job on all the remaining surfaces. I've also used a wood filler to patch what remained of the saw damage plus about 2 dozen small finish nail holes.

Looks great so far! Now I'm going to have to clean up my shop some to replace several existing make shift benches with this new one.

I'm also looking for recommendations for a finishing product.

Tim

Such a tragedy, how are you ever going to top a gloat like this. :D

If it were mine, I would consider a few coats of tung oil or maybe shellac.

I would also be likely to install a tray between the stretchers to hold tools or clamps.

jim

[Deane Allinson]

Congrats! What a find. Maybe use a little oil. Nothing wrong with the "blemishes". My bench is 30 years old with no finish at all except from a little over-spray from some spray cans. I nothing wrong with a salty work bench. I mainly use 100 year old tools anyway.
Deane

[Jerome Hanby]

I saw a workbench finish in an issue or Woodsmith. Think it was BLO, turpentine, and Beeswax, but check to be sure.

Here's a cut and paste I found online


Shave a hen's-egg-size chunk of beeswax (about 2-ounces) into thin strips using a knife or food grater. Put the beeswax shavings into a pint (16-ounces) of pure gum turpentine and cover until the wax is dissolved into a butter-like blend. Next, add an equal volume of BLO and stir until the mixture is combined into a thick liquid. Brush or wipe the blend over your workbench and allow the "finish" to be absorbed into the wood for an hour or two before you squeegee off the excess. (Put the excess in a tightly sealed container—it is still good and can be used to renew the finish in the future.) Allow the finish to "cure" for a few days and then buff to a soft shine. The original version of this very old recipe called for raw linseed oil. This finish, or something very close to this finish, was most probably used on most of the surviving 18th and 19th century work benches.

[Tim Boger]

I saw a workbench finish in an issue or Woodsmith. Think it was BLO, turpentine, and Beeswax, but check to be sure.

Here's a cut and paste I found online

Hey Jerome,

Thanks my friend, appreciate the recipe! That sounds like an easy job to do.

Tim

[gary Zimmel]

Sweet bench again Tim.
On my bench I use a 50/50 mixture of BLO and turpentine.
It is put on a couple of times a year and seems to do the trick.

[Gary Hodgin]

Nice bench! The 50/50 mixture of BLO and turpentine mentioned above is what Lie-Nielsen uses on its benches. You could probably find the original Ulmia finish by contacting someone who sells the benches. Congratulations!!

[George Sanders]

That is a very nice bench even with the battle scars. I would love to find a deal like that. It should serve you well for a lifetime.

[Randy Briggs]

Chris Schwarz recommends Watco Danish Oil (2 coats). Just finished my Holtzapfel bench yesterday and with SYP base and ash top and was very happy with how it turned out. The Watco has some varnish in it which should help some with durability but still is easily touched up as needed.

[Tim Boger]

As promised, here are several "after" pictures.

I've spent the better part of the day removing the 2 benches I had been using which were just saw horses and plywood and cleaning up for the Ulmia bench to fit into it's new home.

Thanks again for all the input,
Tim

[Dave Houseal]

WOW....sure cleaned up nice! You'd spend $250 just to buy the vise hardware. What a gloat indeed! :D