Need some miter saw buying advice

[Matt Day]

I recently got the first tool buy go-ahead from the LOML in our 2 month old marriage. I sold my RAS before moving to UT and need a new cross-cutting machine so I'd like to get a sliding miter saw (not to mention it will be nice in the future for crown, base, etc).

I'm a bit up in the air on a couple things, the main one being whether I need the extra capacity of a 12" SCMS over a 10". I was initially looking hard at the Hitachi C12 that has the nifty rails that allow you to save some space and put it up against a wall. My new shop is pretty small and that would be nice, but how much space savings is it really? I would think about a foot since most 12" saws have about a 12"+ cross cut capacity? The main negative I've read about the Hitachi is there isn't much adjusting of the blade to the base alignment, which might be a deal breaker. I've read about some people returning their saws only to find the same problem with the new one.

I also have been looking at the Makita saw that has the double rail system that saves a bit of space too. Lastly, I've looked at the Milwaukee that's gotten good reviews in the tests I've seen.

Price isn't a huge issue (though I'm surely not dropping $1300 for a Kapex) but I'd like to find a good deal. The Hitachi is attractive, especially now since I've found it for $350 reconditioned with free shipping. But I don't know about that allignment issue.

Any recommendations or words of wisdom on 10" vs 12" and specific models (that are current) you are happy with? I don't crosscut super wide stock all that much so maybe it would be nice to have a lighter 10" saw, but then again the saw will be essentially stationary so a heavy 12" saw with the extra capacity might come in handy.

Thanks all!

[Tom Rick]

Hi- a couple of points on this.

I would take a good look at what you are planing to cut before deciding on the saw size.

Due to the nature of a slider, it does not take much of a blade diameter to effectively cut 2x material. For instance, with a 10" straight miter box, the maximum cut is ~ a 2x6 @ 90 degrees. A slider will cut the same 2x material out to the length of the rails.

A slide compound saw will do most of its work with the stock lain flat. Be it 1x, 2x or crown.

My take- skip trying to cut 4x4's on the thing and buy a 8" SCMS. The saw will cut all the stock to the same width as a 10" or 12" saw and you have not have the temptation to try to box cut miters with the stock standing upright. The saw (if a good one), will be more rigid and provide a finer cut than a larger saw. I would look at the Hitachi 8". I've owned one since they first came out ~25 years ago and could not ask for a nicer saw. Miles of wide crown and plenty of framing and trim work through the saw. When and if this saw dies, I will replace it with another 7 1/2" or 8"

[Paul McGaha]

Hi Matt,

I have a Hatachi C10FSH. It's a 10" SCMS with a laser. Currently selling for about $430. Mine is about (3) years old. It's belt driven. It has an electric brake.

I'm quite happy with the saw but sort of mixed with the laser.

The laser line is only visable when the saw is not running. It is slightly adjustable left to right of the blade. I would prefer the laser to show the line at the left side of the blade but it wont adjust that far left. The laser is good for getting kind of close but not for final cuts. I tend to have to make several light cuts to have a miter joint fit properly.

I'm no expert but I think Hatachi has a very good reputation for sliding miters from trim carpenters who use them everyday at jobsites. I chose mine to a large degree based on reviews from trim carpenters. I figured they would know best.

Hope this is helpful and good luck on your purchase.

PHM

[david brum]

I also have a Hitachi 10" slider. I did not go with a 12" because I was warned about less accurate cuts caused by 12" blades warping. I don't know from personal experience if that's true, but it seems reasonable.

The 10" saw is a jewel. It's very accurate and smooth. Mine has been used pretty hard for about three years. The main reason that I chose the Hitachi was because of it's better than average dust collection compared to all of the other saws in that price range.

My stock blade wasn't great. I didn't really like the saw until I installed a Freud negative angle blade. Now I use the saw for virtually all crosscutting within it's capability.

[Steven DeMars]

I have a Makita . . . very well made . .

Excellent reviews . . .

Steve

[Jim O'Dell]

When I was shopping for an SCMS, I narrowed it down to 3 saws in this order. Makita, Hitachi, and Bosch. All 10" sliders. My reasoning on the Makita was the slightly larger motor, and the much larger table. Don't know if the new model still has these features or not. Hitachi has the best warranty (5 year P&L). Bosch was a distant 3rd for me.
I ended up with the Hitachi because Lowe's blew out their stock and I got it, no I stole it, at 210.00, and got a free router as a mail in rebate to boot! The comment on the stock blade is right on. Fine for cuts for faming 2X material, horrible for cutting hardwood. I finally got a negative hook Infinity blade but haven't installed it yet. The Hitachi is a sound machine, accurate, easy to adjust. I ruled out the DeWalt because of how I grab the handle. It is a horizontal handle, and I grab it with my thumb off the left side of the handle. Pull it down and the rotating blade guard slices a nice thin layer of skin right off the thumb. Left me bleeding in Home Depot!! I grabbed it again to see if something was wrong with the demo unit, and noticed how I grabbed the handle and what got me. So it was off my list. Jim.

[Van Huskey]

I picked up the Milwaukee 6955-20 at the beginning of the year when HD had them for $300, I already had the Bosch 5412L but bought it as a back-up. Between the two I am hard pressed to chose one but if forced I would probably get the Milwaukee but that may be for the gee-whiz factor of the DRO. My general opinion is all the top brand CSMS are solid and it mainly comes down to ergonomics and picking the correct size. Regarding size I prefer the 12" saws just based on nested capability but if trim is not an issue (or you are one that cuts crown flat) the 10" or smaller versions have their appeal. In any event a good CSMS blade is in order for everything except 2X stock, my favorites are either the Freud LU91 or the Forrest Chopmaster, I have both and have a slight preference for the LU91 due to price.

[James Baker SD]

I agree that the choice should be at least partially based on what you want to do. I had a 12" Bosch that overall was a very good saw, but it just could not cut a really accurate 45 degree miter for a picture frame. Since the main use of my saw has been making picture frames, I sold the 12" and bought a 10" and now get much better cuts that glue up into nice frames.

James

[Karl Brogger]

I've got a Makita with the 6-1/2" blade as an install saw. Its great, light, accurate, blades are cheap to replace and sharpen. I've only had it about six months but it has done everything I've asked. I think 90* cut capacity is 11-1/2"

If you want an awesome saw for strictly bench use try and find a used Omga, or a Derda chop box. I bought a Derda at an online auction for $220 last year and it has been one of the best chop boxes I've used.

[Dar Lounsbury]

I got a 12" Makita and love it.

Dar

[scott vroom]

Hitachi invented the SCMS in 1988. Great value IMO. I own the C10FSH 10-Inch Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Performs flawlesly. Use it for face frames, crown, casing, flooring, general construction. And, Hitachi has the coolest colors: sea green and black.:cool:

[Peter Quinn]

As far as 12" versus 10", it depends on what you do mostly. If you move the saw a lot and don't NEED the capacity of a 12", you will appreciate the easier mobility of a 10". That extra two inches adds a lot of weight. But if you are a trim carpenter regularly handling very large crowns and casings or other millwork, you may need the 12" and the point is mute. I got a 10" slider because it does everything I need and is easier to move when I need that. If the saw stays parked in your shop on a bench, then it is mostly a space issue.

I like the makita SCMS. I just got the new one and its got some great features, a real upgrade versus the older model, which I had for the previous 6 years or so.

Bosch just announced a brand new saw that looks really interesting, so you might look for one of those just for "cool new tool" points. It has a new type of slider mechanism that lets it work in a really small foot print, which may be handy in a small shop.

[Will Overton]

I have a Bosch 12" and changed the stock blade to a Forrest ChopMaster, the saw is accurate for all my needs. As it turned out I could have been just as happy with the 10".

To decide between a 10" and a 12", read the specs on the saws you are considering. You will be able to match the saw to your needs.

[Don Morris]

Isn't it interesting that the Kapex is only a 10"? Does that tell you something? I have a vintage Hitachi 10" and it's rock solid. I put a chopmaster blade on it and custom fences for tall crown (the old Hitachi's had low fences). Jim O'Dell's comment about trying the handles to see how you work is not a bad idea. Some handles are horizontal, some vertical. If you're working all day with one, it's nice to have one oriented the way you prefer. Go to a BORG that has them all and try them. Bring a machinist square with you and put the blade down and check the blade for rt. angle. Wiggle the handles when pulled out all the way (10" and 12" models). You can get a lemon in any brand, but I did read that one high end contractor moved back from 12" models to 10" models because of the movement in the 12" models. So it sort of depends on just how fussy your needs are. Great to have a new LOML that supports your wwing needs. She's a keeper.

[Darnell Hagen]

Wait and get a Bosch glide (http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/power-tools/bosch-glide-miter-saw-review).

[Will Overton]

Some handles are horizontal, some vertical.

The Bosch and Craftsman Professional models have positionable handles.

[bill mullin]

Hi Matt,

I have a Hatachi C10FSH. It's a 10" SCMS with a laser. Currently selling for about $430. Mine is about (3) years old. It's belt driven. It has an electric brake.

I'm quite happy with the saw but sort of mixed with the laser.

The laser line is only visable when the saw is not running. It is slightly adjustable left to right of the blade. I would prefer the laser to show the line at the left side of the blade but it wont adjust that far left. The laser is good for getting kind of close but not for final cuts. I tend to have to make several light cuts to have a miter joint fit properly.

I'm no expert but I think Hatachi has a very good reputation for sliding miters from trim carpenters who use them everyday at jobsites. I chose mine to a large degree based on reviews from trim carpenters. I figured they would know best.

Hope this is helpful and good luck on your purchase.

PHM
Hmm. The laser on my FSH stays lit all the time, unless I turn it off. It doesn't show up in bright daylight, however.
Also, mine is adjusted so the laser hits the left side of my mark, so that the right side cut-off is my "good" piece.
I agree with the accuracy issue, the laser is too coarse for fine work.
I use mine everyday at work and have been happy with it.

[Matt Day]

Thanks for the heads up on the Bosch Glide guys, I hadn't seen that yet. Still, $700 is twice as much as the Hitachi that also doen't need the space. Anyone know if a 10" (hopefully cheaper) will be coming out?

I can wait a bit while I get my shop fully setup in my new place.

What I'll be using it for: mainly cross cutting hardwood down to length (sometimes while rough) for now, cutting 2x4's occasionally, and as I said before some crown/base etc in the future most likely. After some good suggestions, I don't think I'll ever really need the 12" capacity. I doubt I'll ever be doing large crown molding or anything, or anything that would be more than a 10" saw could handle.

I would however like to get as much cross cut capacity as possible. For instance, I do get some 12"+ 4/4 stock that would be nice to cut with the SCMS, rather than a sled on the TS or something.

So it sounds like the 10" is what I should be looking for. I think the top of my list is the Makita LS1016L (reconditioned I found it for $430). It's tough to not look at that 12" Hitachi for $349 though. Anyone have any success stories as far as precision goes? Any other suggestions for saws?