Good Radial Arm Saw Blade

[Thomas L. Miller]

I was just about to sell my Craftsman 10" RAS when I needed to cut some half lap joints for a bookcase. I put a 6" Forrest Dado King stacked dado set on it that I had left when I sold my contractor saw and replaced it with a SS ICS (it requires an 8" dado stack). The decent dado set made a world of difference in the performance of this saw and now I'm going to keep it. In order to do that I need recommendations on a quality blade for it. I would likely default to a Forrest Chopmaster (I use the WWII on my table saw and love it), but I'm open to opinions. Thanks for the time and input.

[Van Huskey]

I have several Chopmasters and love them, the Freud LU91 is also an excellent blade and I have used it on both RAS and SCMS, it has a 5* neg hook and it is a little thinner kerf (.090 vs .105) than the Chopmaster which is nice on the Craftsman saw. I have a LU91 on my Craftsman RAS and given I have a couple of 80T and 90T Forrest CMs within reach of the saw lets you know how I feel. That is not to say I think it is better but just as good in 99% of situations and is cheaper.

[Will Overton]

I have a 10" ChopMaster on my ras and a 12" on my scms. They were my first choice and I never felt a need to look further. So, I guess I'm saying the ChopMaster is a good choice, but I haven't compared them to others.

[Peter Quinn]

Pretty much any decent carbide tipped 40th or better with a negative rake angle is going to give a good cut. I'm using a nice blade whose brand I don't know but was ordered from the folks at Wolfe machinery that handle the DeWalt RAS service and rebuild business. Its real quiet, doesn't hum or whistle on wind down, and makes an excellent cut. I was told it is made for the RAS specifically.

The negative rake angle is critical to decrease the tendency for the RAS to climb forward toward the user, so putting a general purpose TS blade on a RAS can lead to more climbing, which can lead to more pants wetting. I'd figure a TK with stabilizers would help the craftsman's performance.

[Brent Smith]

I have a Forrest Woodworker I on my RAS. Best blade I've used on it so far.

[Joseph Tarantino]

i'm sure this selection will be criticized for its 10 degree hook angle

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000W0YZMW/ref=nosim/14883371-20

but it works very well for me, as shown in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8In_nKqW1DA

and it's not terribly expensive.

[Van Huskey]

i'm sure this selection will be criticized for its 10 degree hook angle

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000W0YZMW/ref=nosim/14883371-20

but it works very well for me, as shown in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8In_nKqW1DA

and it's not terribly expensive.

I have used positive hook angle blades on RAS and they will work fine you just have to be aware of their tendencies. I have even used them on Craftsman RAS but it is the least favorable saw to use them on, the weight and rigidity of the arm isn't as high as a "real" RAS and thus more likely to climb. In the end if I had only positive hook angle blades and needed the RAS I would use one but if I am buying a new one it makes more sense to get a negative hook angle blade.

[Jim O'Dell]

You might check Infinity. They have a blade they sell specifically for RASs. Also 10% off if you mention the SMC discount. I have a couple of their blades and bits, and am thoroughly pleased with all of them. Jim.

[scott spencer]

Thomas - The Infinity 010-060 (http://www.infinitytools.com/Radial-Arm-Saw-Blades/products/1197/) is a 60T Hi-ATB blade that's very similar to the Forrest WWI. It'll have very low tearout tendencies and is also an excellent plywood blade. (on sale for < $60)

Holbren's got the CMT 80T Hi-ATB 210.080.10 (http://www.holbren.com/cmt-melamine-fine-blade-10-x80-5-8-bore.html) for $61 (less 10% with "SMC10" discount code).

Both excellent, both suitable for RAS.

[Will Overton]

I think one of the reasons the ras gets a bad rap is that people who are experienced handling them make recommendations that neither the saw industry nor the blade industry endorse. An inexperienced person puts that positive hook blade on the saw and unexpectedly feels that blade trying to come at them. That puts them in the "RAS is dangerous camp", all because they took bad advise instead of following the manufacturer's and blade maker's advice.

I realize that everybody has to make their own decisions, and respect that. I'm just saying that those who are new to using a particular tool should, "Read, Understand, and Follow the manufacturer's instructions", to coin a phrase. ;)

[Brandon Weiss]

I think one of the reasons the ras gets a bad rap is that people who are experienced handling them make recommendations that neither the saw industry nor the blade industry endorse. An inexperienced person puts that positive hook blade on the saw and unexpectedly feels that blade trying to come at them. That puts them in the "RAS is dangerous camp", all because they took bad advise instead of following the manufacturer's and blade maker's advice.

I realize that everybody has to make their own decisions, and respect that. I'm just saying that those who are new to using a particular tool should, "Read, Understand, and Follow the manufacturer's instructions", to coin a phrase. ;)


For a long time I've been looking for a RAS. I keep watching CL for the old DeWalt models that are supposed to be good. The other night I dropped some tables off for a guy and he gave me a Craftsman Professional RAS, model 315.220381. I know the "Crapsman" reputation these have but hey, the price was right. I got paid for the tables and the RAS was FREE. So, now that I have one I'm looking for a blade. This thread came up in a strange timely coincidence....... I would like to keep my blade under $100, prefereably under $80 if possible. Will, what are your personal recommendations for a blade for a beginner to the RAS world?

[Hugh Jardon]

I bought one recently, a RIDGID RS1000. Never owned or used one before, but was fed up of sloppy miters and crosscuts on my abortion of a SCMS. Table saw was not much more accurate, and certainly less convenient to use.

The RAS was a revelation. I expected it to climb a little, with a 50T Table saw blade on it for now, but it's controllable. Easily controllable even. The saw is accurate beyond belief, I've been trying out the different features, bevel angles and so forth, and it always come back to dead-on 90 degrees.

I know I need a proper blade for it, and this thread has been useful. However, in the meantime, I don't see it as any more dangerous than any other power tool with a blade and motor big enough to sever digits and limbs. Treated with respect, it's great. Wish I had bought one years ago.

[Will Overton]

For a long time I've been looking for a RAS. I keep watching CL for the old DeWalt models that are supposed to be good. The other night I dropped some tables off for a guy and he gave me a Craftsman Professional RAS, model 315.220381. I know the "Crapsman" reputation these have but hey, the price was right. I got paid for the tables and the RAS was FREE. So, now that I have one I'm looking for a blade. This thread came up in a strange timely coincidence....... I would like to keep my blade under $100, prefereably under $80 if possible. Will, what are your personal recommendations for a blade for a beginner to the RAS world?

I use a Forrest ChopMaster which is a bit over $100.

The Freud LU91R010 is $65 at Amazon. It's a thin kerf, 60 tooth blade with a -5° hook angle. They also make the same blade without the red coating, LU91M010, which at Amazon is $54.99

Freud describes them as;

"Fine Finish Blades For Sliding Miter & Radial Arm Saws"

[Paul Wunder]

Plus 1 on the Forrest Woodworker. When I got my DeWalt RAS years ago I called Forrest and they recommended it for my application. Smooth, straight effortless cuts. I no longer have the saw, having upgraded to a good cabinet saw, but I would highly recommend it. Give them a buzz; I found them to be very knowledgeable and will help you with the correct model

[Jeff Bratt]

Another vote for Infinity - they have two good choices:
1 - their radial arm saw blade (http://www.infinitytools.com/Radial-Arm-Saw-Blades/products/1197/) (5 deg hook, ATB teeth)
2 - their chop saw blade (http://www.infinitytools.com/Miter-Saw-Blades/products/1201/) - which I like even better (-5 deg hook, ATB+R teeth)

[Bob Aquino]

First of all, stick with a 0 or negative hook angle on the blade. You won't notice it pulling much going through 3/4 stock, but try it with say 12/4 and it will surprise you some. Then the difference will really stand out.

As for blades, take a look at ones made by Hitachi. They are actually French made blades and very high quality especially considering the cost. I have bought 3 different sizes over the last couple of years, the last two for radial arm saws. I am running this blade http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006HKBY2/ref=oss_product on my Delta 30c and ran an 8.5" on a Delta Super 900 I sold about a month ago. Currently the 10" blade which is sold as a non-ferrous metal and plastic blade has 72 teeth and triple chip grind (it cuts wood just fine). Its currently 29.95 on amazon and worth every penny. It goes through maple over 3" thick with very little pulling. Here it is mounted on the 30c:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nh7rpc89jO0/S93bcCbeBvI/AAAAAAAAI04/K92m-xEpw84/s800/IMG_0842.JPG

[Mike Heidrick]

I use a WWI on my Delta. Works great.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Thanks everyone! I knew I could count on you folks for lots of good information. Have a good weekend!
Tom

[Erik Christensen]

I recommend Ridge Carbide - made in the US and built like a tank. beefy carbide teeth and razor sharp - I use mine a lot and have yet to send it out for sharpening. worth the premium price which becomes inconsequential when you consider the cost of wood you put through it and how much you save with accurate splinter free cuts

ymmv

[Erik Lindseth]

I bought one recently, a RIDGID RS1000. Never owned or used one before, but was fed up of sloppy miters and crosscuts on my abortion of a SCMS. Table saw was not much more accurate, and certainly less convenient to use.

The RAS was a revelation. I expected it to climb a little, with a 50T Table saw blade on it for now, but it's controllable. Easily controllable even. The saw is accurate beyond belief, I've been trying out the different features, bevel angles and so forth, and it always come back to dead-on 90 degrees.

I know I need a proper blade for it, and this thread has been useful. However, in the meantime, I don't see it as any more dangerous than any other power tool with a blade and motor big enough to sever digits and limbs. Treated with respect, it's great. Wish I had bought one years ago.

I have to agree with this. My father is a carpenter and professional cabinet build and I grew up watching him do a lion's share of his crosscutting with a dewalt RAS. My father says he actually built an entire home and the cabinets using that RAS and no other saw (ripping and cross cutting). My dad still has all his digits. I actually picked up a Craftsman RAS in great condition for $80 that had probably only been used about 3 times. I have played with this thing a lot doing bevel cuts and miter cuts, swinging the arm back and forth and it is still true with no problems getting it back to a true 90 degrees.

Its true without a negative rake blade and someone not paying attention it can climb. I have found that being aware of this information, I am able to control it well and I never begin a cut without looking where all my digits are, of course, this is true anytime I use a power tool.

[Dan Chouinard]

I wonder why Mr. Sawdust recommends the Forrest WW1 rather than a blade with negative hook?

While on the subject....
How do you detect if RAS blade is cock-eyed (not parallel with arm). According to Mr. Sawdust, this adjustment is very important but his book gives precious little advice regarding this issue. The slightest amount is too much. How should I test for and correct this condition?

[Bob D.]

I use the Ridge Carbide (http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and-dados/miter-saw-blades/10-rs1000.html) RS1000 blade which is made for RAS and SCMS and has received favorable reviews from several WWing magazines. Made in America as all their blades and bits are and they offer sharpening service for any make blade by mail at reasonable rates.

[david brum]

I wonder why Mr. Sawdust recommends the Forrest WW1 rather than a blade with negative hook?

I just had that exact conversation with one of the guys at Forest last week. I had bought the special Mr Sawdust WWI TCG blade and it behaved very badly on my older Dewalt RAS. He told me that the Mr Sawdust blade was a revelation when it was initially produced because it was much better than anything else at the time. There are much better designs available now, however. He specifically recommended the standard WWI for general purpose (crosscutting and ripping) or the Chopmaster for crosscut and miter.

Forest was kind enough to allow me to send back my Mr Sawdust blade in exchange for a Chopmaster, which I'm waiting for with high hopes. Meanwhile, I'm using the 2 for $24 Avanti 60t blade from HD, which actually works very well.



While on the subject....
How do you detect if RAS blade is cock-eyed (not parallel with arm). According to Mr. Sawdust, this adjustment is very important but his book gives precious little advice regarding this issue. The slightest amount is too much. How should I test for and correct this condition?

This is pretty goodhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKSkZ1vAzNc

[Jack Pinkham]

I use a Forrest ChopMaster which is a bit over $100.

The Freud LU91R010 is $65 at Amazon. It's a thin kerf, 60 tooth blade with a -5° hook angle. They also make the same blade without the red coating, LU91M010, which at Amazon is $54.99

Freud describes them as;

"Fine Finish Blades For Sliding Miter & Radial Arm Saws"

Current price for the LU91M010 at Amazon is $49.15 with free shipping.

[Homer Faucett]

I have 2 DeWalt RAS's with a Forrest WWI blade (5 degree hook angle)--a 16" and 14" blade, respectively. I have a small DeWalt MBF with an 8" Hitachi blade as discussed above, which I believe has a negative 5 degree hook angle. The WWI works very well, and I have not had the walking issues with this blade that I recall on my dad's Craftsman RAS.

I had originally wanted to use a Chopmaster for the very reason that it has a negative hook angle while the WWI has a positive hook angle (although not very large). However, I was able to pick up the WWI blades for much less than half that of the Chopmasters of the same size, or their Freud counterparts, and I was assured by several that a very low positive rake angle will not result in a harsh climbing action. I'm glad I took their advice, as the WWI has done everything I've asked of it, especially for the $60 I paid for the 16" behemoth. Don't get me wrong, if I could choose in a vacuum, I would have gone with the Chopmaster or the Freud equivalent (I'm partial to Freud), but I haven't regretted going with the WWI.

[Oliver Colladay]

Negative rake is not required on an RAS. However, do avoid blades with high positive (i.e. +10 degrees and more) rake angles designed for the table saw. Any blade with a rake between +5 and -5 degrees will work well on the RAS. I have been using RAS's for 25+ years, in sizes ranging from 10" to 22", and have tried countless blades. I currently use a Forrest Woodworker with a +5 degree rake and triple-chip grind on the carbide. The triple-chip grind helps when using a positive rake, as it's a little less grabby than the ATB grind.

The slightly positive hook (eg. +5 degrees) will give you much better performance when ripping than a negative hook, which tends to beat it's way thru the cut. With a triple-chip grind, you will not see the climb cutting and rip-lifting so often associated with RAS's with any hook of +5 or less.

That said, I do use zero-rake on my dado stacks. I am currently running a 16" RAS, and use a 12" dado on it. No need to go positive hook on a 12" x 13/16" dado.

Call the Forrest factory in Clifton, NJ, and ask to speak with Charles about RAS blades. He will set you up with a time-proven solution for your saw.