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paul hyde
07-26-2010, 3:05 PM
Hello fello creekers!
This is my first post, and I have a question. I'm finally getting ready to install new window trim(craftsman style, stool & apron)in my home(My great wife has been waiting 7 years,since I installed our new windows:o). I'm using 4/4 and 5/4 quartersawn white oak boards. The drywall is 1/2" thick, and I currently own a Porter Cable 16 gauge(FN250B) nailer. Will this nailer do the job with 2-1/2" nails, or do I need to upgrade to the 15 gauge nailer? :confused:

:) By the way, this forum is really great and I have learned alot!

Thanks!

joe milana
07-26-2010, 3:26 PM
I would consider pre-drilling and hand nailing this one, especially with the QSWO. I hope you aren't planning on nailing the casing to the jamb with a 2 1/2" nail!?! You will end up with a mess. Please elaborate on your planned technique.

paul hyde
07-26-2010, 3:36 PM
I was planning to only use the 2-1/2" nails where the head and side casings interface with the drywall. Where the the casings attach to the extension jams, I will probably use 16 gauge 1-1/2" nails. Thanks again for the quick reply!

Mark Woodmark
07-26-2010, 3:43 PM
I would consider pre-drilling and hand nailing this one, especially with the QSWO. I hope you aren't planning on nailing the casing to the jamb with a 2 1/2" nail!?! You will end up with a mess. Please elaborate on your planned technique.

Is this because of the QSWO? I have attached casing to many jambs with my 15 ga finish nailer. the only problem I have is the larger nail hole made by the 15 ga nails. Sometimes I wish I would have bought a 16 ga nailer. I also have a 18 ga pin nailer, but this doesnt seem strong enough for this application. I wouldnt use 2-1/2 inch either on this installation

joe milana
07-26-2010, 11:17 PM
Is this because of the QSWO? I have attached casing to many jambs with my 15 ga finish nailer. the only problem I have is the larger nail hole made by the 15 ga nails. Sometimes I wish I would have bought a 16 ga nailer. I also have a 18 ga pin nailer, but this doesnt seem strong enough for this application. I wouldnt use 2-1/2 inch either on this installation

Have you attached 4/4 or 5/4 oak casing ? That's a lot to shoot through and hope a nail doesn't fishhook on you. It's just not worth the risk to me.

paul hyde
07-27-2010, 12:04 AM
This is my first interior trim job dealing with this kind of hardwood and thickness. I read alot of trim books and watched Gary Katz's videos, but I thought I would make sure I'm doing this job safely and correctly by posting this thread. I sure appreciate all the responses! Thanks! :)

Neal Clayton
07-27-2010, 12:15 AM
Have you attached 4/4 or 5/4 oak casing ? That's a lot to shoot through and hope a nail doesn't fishhook on you. It's just not worth the risk to me.

i have, and had it pull itself loose with the first weather change ;).

old style wide trim is great. but i wouldn't bet on flimsy 15 or 16 guage nailgun nails holding it that long. maybe coupled with paint and caulk, but not on their own.

Ray Schwalb
07-27-2010, 6:51 AM
I've trimmed all the windows and doors in our house with "craftsman style" trim in red oak. 1x4 casings and aprons, 1x6 head trim with crown around the top of it. After hearing Gary Katz say he use 18ga nails for everything except installing door jambs, I've been doing the same. I haven't seen anything come loose. It is great if you can do this in low humidity, when the wood is at its smallest dimensions, but even so, the way the butted casings are designed, any shrinkage is hidden by the shadowlines of the stool and pencil trim under the head. Those old timers knew what they were doing. IMHO it beats mitered casing any day.

Philip Rodriquez
07-27-2010, 10:56 AM
I did it in my old 1901 house. However, I had plaster walls. I used "liquid nails pan/molding" and used a fin nailer, brad nailer, and a pin nailer. I never had any problems.

Neal Clayton
07-27-2010, 11:02 AM
yea the plaster is the kicker, because old plaster walls didn't have to be straight, they just had to look straight. so you could very well have to bend that wide board an inch or more to pull it up to the wall. air nailer trim nails just don't grip enough for that by themselves.

paul hyde
07-31-2010, 8:48 PM
I just wanted to say thanks for all the great feedback and info. It's amazing how many ways there are to trim a window "Craftsman Style"! Now the fun part, to get started! :)

Philip Rodriquez
08-02-2010, 12:58 PM
Yes, plaster walls have their own set of problems. Nails are not enough to hold the trim to the wall. When I first started, I did my kitchen. It only took a few days for some of the pieces to pull away from the wall. After that, I went with the liquid nail stuff.

Additionally, look for the light-weight spackel. It is great for patching plaster walls. They sell it in the BORGs, in the paint section.