Need a very durable paint finish

[Tom Jones III]

I'm building a bench like the one pictured. Since it will be painted I'm using whatever scrap I've already got in my workshop. Most of it is going to be plywood, the top and feet will be poplar.

Since we will have baskets sliding in and out, and we have 3 kids under the age of 5 who will be using it as a bench, what is the most durable paint to use? Thankfully the youngest is old enough that she won't chew on it so durability is our only concern.

[Neal Clayton]

if you don't care about a gloss sheen, milk paint. if you do, oil enamel (i use Sherwin Williams personally).

[Jose Morales-Wade]

I'll vote for milk paint, two coats at least. Then if you want, you may top coat with a varnish to the desire sheen.

[Prashun Patel]

I think yr wasting yr $$ on milk paint unless you're going for a particular look. If you just want durability, you can use a resin-fortified paint.

I've had the best luck using a clearcoat over paint. The trick is finding one that doesn't discolor. Minwax polycrylic (bring on the flames) works fine for me.

Just test it.

[Homer Faucett]

I like the Sherwin Williams water based Industrial Enamel Acrylic or ProClassic Acrylic Enamel for a durable paint with easy clean-up. We've used Behlen's Rockhard over the top of this paint for tabletops after a light scuff with sandpaper. The SW acrylics spray well through a Harbor Freight HVLP with water used as a thinner, and you can put three light coats on in almost no time.

[Scott Holmes]

I vote for an Alkyd Enamel oil based. It will be the most durable of the products listed. Waterbornes are not as durable as their oil based counterparts. 2 -3 coats light sanding to smooth after 2nd coat. No top coat needed.

[Chris Padilla]

I have a similar situation with a tansu (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92396) I built. It was all done in shop-cut walnut veneers and I dyed it and then sprayed SealCoat (dewaxed shellac). The baskets quickly cut through the shellac so redid the bottoms and brushed an oil-based varnish on all the bottoms. On top of that, I glued some felt to the bottoms of the baskets (I just used clear cheap silicone and squirted a few dabs here and there).

[Tom Jones III]

Wow, thanks for all the ideas!

[Joe Chritz]

Sherwin Williams pro classic acrylic alklyd.

After about a week it is totally non-blocking and very durable. I use it on nearly all my painted projects.

Joe

[Jeff Monson]

I'm with Shawn on this one, I did a kitchen set for my daughter 2 winters ago, I also wanted a durable finish. I primed and painted the set (sherwin williams latex) and put 3 coats of nirto laquer over the top. Its held up extremely well.

[Dave Shute]

I've tried many paints and been sorely disappointed. The one I finally settled on is Benjamin Moore Impervo over Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primer. Takes about a week to fully cure but it's like gel coat when it's done. Alklyd oil base so it smells during the application and cure process but well worth it. Check out their historical collection for awesome colors, they even do the pottery barn collection if you're so inclined.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Epoxy paint. Too costly for this project but you can't beat it. I used some to make a dry-erase surface on a project. You know how tough dry-erase is.
.

[Rich Johnson]

What did you end up going with. I have a very simular project for the bathroom. Baskets as well and will be using white paint brushed on. Since it is in the bathroom will be getting lots of humidity.

Thnks for your reply

[Maurice Ungaro]

I've used Rust-o-Leum on a workstation that turned out fantastic. Very durable. Used 3 coats, sanding with 220 in between, and the richness of the finish looks great. Oh, did I mention how durable it is? It was made for an artist to do layout and framing.

[Harry Hagan]

I would put formica in a color that complements/contrasts with your paint on the inside surfaces (bottom and sides) that will see the most abuse. It will fare much better than paint.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Personally - for extreme durability I've always used Glidden Polyureathane Floor enamel.

It meets spec, TT-E-487E, which puts it in the same neighborhood as Imron and Polane.

Don't let the "poly" part throw you off.

These "polys" are to typical over the counter clear poly as hardened steel is to pot metal.

[Scott Holmes]

Glidden Polyurethane Floor Enamel

Rich, I'm sure it out performs any OTC Poly!

Now here's a switch... It's a alkyd resin paint there is no urethane resin in it!

Seems they are using the "Poly" name to market it.

[Jerome Hanby]

Sorry for the minor hijack, but this is kinda related. I did a "similar" project and my wife and daughter picked out the colors and did the painting. They got various shades of pink (God help me) mixed at Lowes. Pretty sure it was their run of the mill interior latex. May work fine for walls, but this thing gets too many touches and the paint tends to stick to anything placed on the shelves. Any product out there that would work to top coat this stuff so it would be smooth and hard? Just disassembled this thing (a huge dollhouse looking bed) and moved it to the new house, so it needs some touch up and now would be a good time to do something about the finish.

Thanks

[Rich Engelhardt]

Jerome,
As long as what you have on now has been cured for a few months, the Benj. Moore Impvervo mentioned above should work fine.
Just lighty scuff sand what's on there now and go over it w/the Benny Moore.


Scott,
hehe, yeah,,,anything that's anything these days has "Poly" in the name.
30/35 years ago it was "Epoxy".
Everything was "Epoxy" or "Epoxy Fortified".

[Scott Holmes]

I disagree with Rich on top coating the latex.

The trait you are expereincing is called "blocking" The latex will continue to block and anything on top will come off with it.

Your best bet is to strip the latex and apply a quality enamel paint in the sheen you want when finished. Oil based paint will be a bit more durable, but for a doll house it should not matter. A good primer for the paint you choose is a good practice.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd only strip the old finish if it wasn't adhering, had so many layers applied it was hiding details or if my planned top coat wasn't compatible.

From the description of the problem, none of these seem to apply.

To the OP:
If the blocking is so severe it's causing the latex to come off down to the bare surface or a previous coat, then stripping it off and starting over is the way to go.

[Jerome Hanby]

This monstrosity is built from MDF, so I shellacked everything prior to painting. The blocking isn't terrible, just annoying. Biggest problem is that the finish isn't very tough and every little bump leaves a spot to touch up...

[Joe Chritz]

You aren't really out much by trying so you could always prime with BIN and put down a quality acrylic paint. Several have been mentioned above.

Worst case is it doesn't last and you have to strip it, which is essentially where you are now.

Joe

[Scott Holmes]

What shellac did you use? If it wasn't Zinsser seal coat or the aerosol can. Then the shellac had wax in it and the latex will come off very easily.