Grizzly G0453Z Planer (or other larger spiral head) Owners - A Question

[glenn bradley]

I already know the G0453 is a solid platform and have no interest in a knifed machine, I already have one.

Question - How is the material handling as far as the feed rollers go?

That is, do you ever end up with marks (other than cutter marks) on your material after feeding it through. I am obviously asking this question out of ignorance as I have never run a serrated feed roller machine.

And since we all like talking about the specific tools that we own (I know I do), please share ony other thoughts, tips, tweaks, " I shoulda gotta XYZ"-like statements, opinions, tirades and soap-box sessions.

TIA,

Glenn

[glenn bradley]

I am noticing from the responses on other forums (no responses here . . . hmmmm) that I may not be asking the question right.

When I am thicknessing material I have gotten into the habit of getting very close to the finished dimension and then working to the final finished surface with a scraper or sandpaper. I read where some of the larger machines, being focused at a larger task, leave unacceptable marks in the surface if you try to take less than say, 1/32" at a pass. I am trying to figure out if this is so.

[Cary Falk]

Glenn,
I don't have on yet but it is my understanding that all planers with serrated infeed rollers will leave marks if you take too little off. You can minimize it by adjusting the infeed roller pressure. If you are going to be taking off 1/32" maybe you should get a lunchbox (rubber infeed roller)with a spiral head or a drum sander.
Cary

[glenn bradley]

I have the DW734 and it does a great job most of the time. Figured woods and grain reversals get tearout often enough that I have moved this up on my priority list. Even with new knives and light cuts I will get tearout on curly woods. The same surfaces pass over my jointer's spiral head and come off like glass.

I am not hoping for a finish-ready surface out of the planer but dimensioning to within 1/32" or so seems pretty crude for a larger machine when the lunchbox can do it no problem. I am speaking form ignorance as I have never owned a larger machine. the marks folks speak of may be the sort that will vanish during the final stock prep process. I think I may be making a mountain out of a molehill as I am about to drop a wad of money and am double/triple checking my thinking.

I thought we had some owners of this model here and maybe they just haven't dropped by yet. I was hoping for some responses like "you'll have to sand the final 32nd off to get a good surface" or "whadda ya cryin' for? Its no big deal" Stuff like that ;-)

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Glenn,
No matter how large a planer is and whether or not it has a Byrd head or conventional cutter head, it should be capable of removing a small quantity of material. Larger machines all have serrated infeed rollers and smooth outfeed rollers. The infeed rollers are set at a certain height in relation to the blades. Depending on the hardness of the specie you are planing, the infeed rollers will leave an imprint. If you don't cut away enough material to shave away the impressions you will still see marks. However, in all practicality, this is rarely an issue. Serrated infeed roller marks almost always clean up with a 1/32" pass unless the wood is really soft. Don't get the feeling that a lunch box planer can finesse a cut more so than an 15" or 20" heavy duty machine.
fmr

[Paul Greathouse]

OK Glenn, I'll chastise you a little if that's what you want. Wadda ya cryin' for, its no big deal.:D

Seriously though, I have a 454Z and I normally take 1/16" passes, which is one turn of the hieght adjustment wheel. Sometimes I take 1/32" passes and do not experience the marks your talking about. I have accidentally run a board through that had already been run at the same thickness setting and have gotten the serrated roller marks. I never have tried to see how little I can take off without getting the roller marks but 1/32" is OK for sure.

I get the same finish from my Grizzly spiral head jointer that I get from the Grizzly spiral head planer. I could probably go straight to 120 grit but I always start with 80 then 120.

If I can remember when I get home I will do some test runs for you. I don't have any highly figured wood on hand but if all your interested in is serration marks it shouldn't matter what I use.

[David Weaver]

Can't speak for the grizzly, but the delta DC580 that I mooch time on has a spiral head and metal feed rollers, and I've never seen anything left on the wood after a 1/2 mm pass. The only thing on it is shine and sharp edges.

[glenn bradley]

Faust and Paul, thank you. I was thinking this might be like the scalloping some folks report on spiral heads. I have never experienced them except for when I purposely ran material across the head really fast. The folks who report the problem state is as unacceptable but I don't have the issue.

If I have developed "lunchbox" habits or techniques, I'm sure I'll get over them as I just ordered the G0453Z (stealth Bing/Cash back gloat). Once upon a time I built stuff with a contractor saw, a 6" jointer and not a chisel or a plane to my name. I'm sure I'll muddle through with my usual 'bull in a china shop' style ;-)

[alex grams]

Glenn,
I have a recently purchased G0634Z 12" jointer/planer with the spiral head and the metal feed rollers. I have had no noticeable feed roller marks, and the end product is in great condition out of the planer. Same for the scalloping, I only get that if i run a board over the jointer too fast, which you would get regardless of spiral vs knife cutterhead.

The absolute best thing I love in going from a lunchbox planer to a more powerful, substantial machine is the snipe elimination. With a longer infeed/outfeet table and a more powerful feed mechanism and board guidance through the tool, the snipe is virtually gone. I think I got a little snipe on one board that I fed at a steeper angle, but 99% of the time, no snipe, and I don't feel like I have to baby the board through the planer and watch it closely every split second.

[Paul Ryan]

Glen,

I have a powermatic 15. If I take very little cuts I used to get the marks as well. When I got the planer I went through and adjusted the infeed and outfeed rollers per the instruction manual. It said to set them to .25 below after doing that I got marks unless I took a 1/16 or more off. The manuals for the new machines now say to adjust the rollers to .015. That has all but eliminated the marks unless I run a board through twice, then I still get marks but they usually sand out easily. I have been planing on adjusting the rollers even more going to .010 to see how that works but haven't gotten around to it. I liked the rollers in the lunch box planers better but that is not an option for the larger machines.

[glenn bradley]

Alex and Paul, thanks much. I always feel better when I hear from users of a certain tool or tool type as to how things work out in practice. Thanks to all for your input here and via PM's. I've got to figure out where this thing is going to stand . . . or more appropriately, where the stuff that is now standing where I want the new machine to go should . . . well, . . . go.

[Paul McGaha]

Hi Glenn,

I have a Powermatic 15HH and it the serrated rollers leave marks on really shallow cuts. I tend to make pretty shallow cuts anyway but I am trying to retrain myself to take deeper cuts something like 1/16 or better.

My last planer was a Rigid Benchtop and I guess I did kind of baby it some.

Good luck with the purchase. You're not going to believe how quiet it is. Before I bought the Powermatic I read an article about a guy seeing the chips go by in a clear dust collection hose and being surprised that the knives were actually cutting due to the low noise. The dust collector is louder. it's true for a really light pass.

PHM

[Philip Rodriquez]

I have a griz. You'll need to adjust the position of the feed roller and, if necessary, adjust the pressure. I can take 1/64" (quarter turn) off of pine and I do not have any marks.

FWW has a great article on adjusting 15" machines. You should check it out!

[glenn bradley]

I have a griz. You'll need to adjust the position of the feed roller and, if necessary, adjust the pressure. I can take 1/64" (quarter turn) off of pine and I do not have any marks.

FWW has a great article on adjusting 15" machines. You should check it out!

Great info and adding to my list of folks who have no issue with light cuts. Thanks!

[John Morrison60]

Glenn

I have a minimax Jointer/Planer with metal feed roller.
It will leave a very faint marking on the material being planed if the
amount being planed is very light (less than 1/32) it is not an issue
for me because I do not plane with that thin a pass.
I have a Shelix head, and so have already planned on light sanding
after planing.

I have read suggestions (on MiniMax forum) that an outfeed roller,
which is rubber, can be substituted for the metal roller.
I am not tempted to do this because I like the way it feeds so well.

Take care
John

[Mikail Khan]

I have a 20" Grizzly.

The smallest cut I take is a quarter turn which is about 0.015".

The 453Z appears to have the Grizz head which has inserts with straight edges. You should not have any problems with scalloping.

Once you familiarize yourself with your planer you should be able to hit your target thickness within a few thou.


MK

[Philip Rodriquez]

Glen, the FWW article is "Getting Peak Planer Performance,
From Fine Woodworking #107"

In my own experience, I did the following:

1. Start by setting the bed rollers below the table. From there, check the cutter head and make sure it is parallel to the table.
2. Loosen the springs that apply pressure to the feed rollers (done on the top of the machine)
3. Adjust the height of the infeed roller (.032”)
4. Adjust the height of the outfeed roller (.032”)
5. Put on your infeed and outfeed tables and get them level
6. Reset your bed rollers (mine are .002”)
7. Apply tension back to the feed rollers. You want enough to control the stock but not too much. This is what causes the tracks.
8. If you cannot get rid of the roller tracks, adjust #3 and #4, then repeat #7


To make all of the necessary adjustments, I have a handy http://www.oneway.ca/workshop/multi-gauge.htm (http://www.oneway.ca/workshop/multi-gauge.htm)
And http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56676&cat=1,240,45313 (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56676&cat=1,240,45313)


PM me if you have questions. The Griz manual was not very helpful and the only adjustment they made was the cutterhead. It was absolutely perfect!

[scott vroom]

I own the G0453Z and have run both hardwood and softwood (redwood/cedar) at 1/32" with no roller marks.

[Paul McGaha]

Well,

I think I'll try to adjust mine this weekend. Try to get it as good as what you guys have.

PHM