Oiling a new bench?

[Jeff Cord]

I'm in the process of finishing a workbench (Roubo style that will roll) and have a question about oiling it when complete.
Should I oil the entire bench (top, underside of top, legs, stretchers) or just the top surface?
thanks,
Jeff

[Sean Hughto]

The rule is that you absolutely must oil the whole thing with an oil mixture of equal parts camelia, linseed and tung heated to a constant 152 degrees F with two small bars of parafin wax added (tallow to taste). The rubbing must be done under a full moon using wool from a freshly sheared lamb. If you don't do it this way, the Schwarz will not be appeased and splinters and checking will be upon you.

More seriously, it's your bench; do as you like. I personally oiled all parts of my bench because I liked the way it looked. Some folks oil none!

[Jon van der Linden]

A lot of people do use a finish. My personal preference is not to use one. A workbench is a tool to be used, not a showpiece. Wood on wood is in my opinion better as a contact surface when working than wood on any type of finish, The only time a lack of finish might be a problem is if you're gluing things.

Unfinished also has the advantage that if you ever need to take off a shaving here or there for flatness or if you have a small accident, you don't need to refinish the entire thing.

[Sean Hughto]

A lot of people do use a finish. My personal preference is not to use one. A workbench is a tool to be used, not a showpiece. Wood on wood is in my opinion better as a contact surface when working than wood on any type of finish, The only time a lack of finish might be a problem is if you're gluing things.

Unfinished also has the advantage that if you ever need to take off a shaving here or there for flatness or if you have a small accident, you don't need to refinish the entire thing.

Um, using something like BLO is not usually for "show". It makes the wood resist glue and moisture. Depending upon how you use your bench, such resistance may be very very handy.

BLO is also readily renewable, and can be renewed in spots (i.e., you don't have to "refinish the entire thing").

I'm not trying to convince you, Jon, but I wanted to make these points for the benefit of the OP.

[Joel Goodman]

I think part of the OP's question has to do with the issue of whether you should/have to finish the bottom, if you finish the top of the bench. It certainly would apply to varnish -- how about BLO?

[Mike Brady]

I think you have to consider the wood used before you decide on a finish. My ash bench got a coat of oil, but it made the wood somewhat darker, and the open pores have attracted some soiling over time. I recently stripped off the oil and scrubbed and scraped the top clean. I did re-oil it. I can't imagine an unprotected finish looking good for very long. I can't say I wasn't warned about the open pore nature of ash. Other than that, I can't think of a better wood for the purpose at at the cost per board foot.

[Sean Hughto]

Good question. I don't personally know definitively from experience and have never heard of testing results where someone sought to determine how the permeability of oil coated wood compares to bare. My guess is that the oil would fill some of the pores enough to cause a differential rate of absorbtion and therefore, the safer course would be to coat the botttom side of the benchtop too. I'll be curious to see if anyone knows for sure.

[Jeff Cord]

My main concern is sealing it so that glue doesn't stick so readily and if not finishing the underside might cause warping.
I don't really care how it looks because, yes, it's a work bench.
Jeff

[Frank Drew]

Just because a bench top is thick doesn't mean that it won't behave like the wood that it is, and the iron-clad rule in applying any finishing material is to treat all surfaces of a piece of wood the same in order to equalize subsequent moisture absorbtion. If the top warps on me I don't want to think it was because I was too lazy to slap some finish on the underside.

I used Mohawk's Tung Oil; I really, really don't like unfinished wood in almost any application beyond a pair of sawhorses -- as Mike notes, wood with no protective finish will get grimy very quickly. A few stains here and there are to be expected over the course of time, but overall grimy, that I don't care for. I'd oil a garden tool handle, I'd oil a work bench. Same same.

Which is NOT to say that I'd treat a workbench like a piece of furniture.

[Jon van der Linden]

My main concern is sealing it so that glue doesn't stick so readily and if not finishing the underside might cause warping.
I don't really care how it looks because, yes, it's a work bench.
Jeff

Sealing it "so glue won't stick" really depends on the glue. Some glues I use will stick to anything other than polished mold release wax. The only safe way is to cover surfaces you care about or use a different table/bench for glue ups.

[Jon van der Linden]

Um, using something like BLO is not usually for "show". It makes the wood resist glue and moisture. Depending upon how you use your bench, such resistance may be very very handy.

BLO is also readily renewable, and can be renewed in spots (i.e., you don't have to "refinish the entire thing").

I'm not trying to convince you, Jon, but I wanted to make these points for the benefit of the OP.

I agree up to a point. The glues that I use that I would be worried about will adhere to any wood coated with oil, unless it's thick enough that it would come off on your hands. As far as moisture, I've had my current hard maple top for 15 years and no problems at all. I don't think that anyone will claim that an oil finish will do more than slow down the penetration of moisture, and if your area is prone to large humidity swings it might be worth a try. Stability is always a good thing.

As to the ability to renew spots with an oil finish, they will not necessarily blend in, which can result in blotchy spots. So if it's an appearance thing then it's possible to end up with a bigger problem than leaving it alone.

If you keep stuff clean unfinished wood can last a very very long time. If it's not kept in good order, then the finish won't help you.

There are certainly different points of view on finishing a workbench, and a lot of it comes down to the individual, what they do, how they do it and what those around them use. Me, I'm just lazy ;)

[Sean Hughto]

For the benefit of the OP (and others reading along), maybe you should be specific about the kind of glues you use.

Me, I'm mostly using PVA (I like LV's 2002 for it's open time, solids, and quality), but often use hide glue as well. If I get a drop of either on the bench, even if it dries, I can pop it right off.

Along with ambient moisture, I was refering to moisture from things like cups of water that I might be using to raise the grain on a piece, or if any water from my waterstone sharpening tray spalshes around.

As for splothchiness, there might be a slight difference for a few days on the fresh wood with BLO, but then it blends in well within a week or less. By the way, weren't you the one who started this by saying a bench is not a "showpiece?"

FWIW, here's a pic of mine.

[Frank Drew]

Once you have it flat and sanded, it takes maybe all of ten or fifteen minutes to oil a bench top (double that for two coats) -- we're talking coverage here, not finesse. I did mine once when it was new, in 1982, and then again a year or so ago when I put it into storage.

Not hard work by any standard.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

I am getting ready for a bench build of my own (6 day class/build) in two weeks and so I been reading lots about benches...Landis, Schwarz, Schleining and the last couple years's worth of builds in FWW and even some manufacturers plans and websites.

FWIW,

The most common recommendation seems to be BLO thinned with an equal part of turpentine...and in addition to some slight amount of protection from glue drips and slowing moisture...but the best reason I ran across was that a thin finish helps to keep grit (sanding and the like) for becoming embedded in the raw wood surface. All the authors recommend checking for flatness and going over with a hand plane once a year or so. But like everything in woodworking one craftman's "must do" seems to be another "I never do." Vive la difference.

[Frank Drew]

All the authors recommend checking for flatness and going over with a hand plane once a year or so.


If necessary; if not, then don't.

The Schleining book is a great survey with excellent photos.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

yes, right. If its flat...step away from the plane. :D

[Jon van der Linden]

For the benefit of the OP (and others reading along), maybe you should be specific about the kind of glues you use.

I use everything from hide glue to epoxies. Each type has its place and use. I usually avoid gluing things on my bench because where will I work while it's drying? If I do glue up on the bench, then I will make sure it's protected.


Along with ambient moisture, I was refering to moisture from things like cups of water that I might be using to raise the grain on a piece, or if any water from my waterstone sharpening tray spalshes around.

While I might put a coffee mug directly on the bench, I'm always careful when using water and have never had a problem. I wipe things down with water when appropriate, steam things, and mist things. However, I would never use waterstones at my workbench.

Just wiping off water right after it gets on the wood is an easy cure for small spills, it's really not a reason for concern. It just requires attention. If the wood chosen for the bench top is extremely porous (like Ash and some Oak) then it would require more care than something like hard maple.


As for splothchiness, there might be a slight difference for a few days on the fresh wood with BLO, but then it blends in well within a week or less. By the way, weren't you the one who started this by saying a bench is not a "showpiece?"

I don't use BLO for a variety of reasons mostly to do with unknown metal driers, and a patch in an oil finish may not blend in at all depending on a variety of factors. The point here is not that it can't blend in, just that there is also a definite possibility that it won't. While I agree that the workbench is a tool and not a showpiece, why go to extra effort and expense to make it ugly?

When I use oil as a finish, I get a very smooth surface which is more slick than I would like on a workbench. The bench is for holding work and a slick surface is the opposite of holding.

I'm sure the OP is getting more than he bargained for out of our discussion!

[Dave Shute]

If you apply a finish to one surface it is generally accepted that it will create surface tension, that's why finishing all surfaces work best. I used Waterlox Original, 5 applications. As far as glue ups or staining, I cover the bench with brown paper, available in large rolls for about $10.00, fold at the edges and tape to the bench top. Throw it away when your done.

[george wilson]

A coat of BLO or tung oil does not build up any finish on the bench. It sinks in. However,it does help seal the bench some against the spot of glue or water that you should wipe right off.

[Gaz Palmer]

A coat of BLO or tung oil does not build up any finish on the bench. It sinks in. However,it does help seal the bench some against the spot of glue or water that you should wipe right off.


This. :) Unless you're going to sit and stare at the bench for an inordinate amount of time I'd avoid over complicating matters and offer up a simple periodical coat or two of BLO or Tung oil should. This should help preserve exposed surfaces.

Seal end grain and there should be minimal shift in the timber.