Brusso Knife Hinges - help needed to choose size

[Derek Cohen]

I need to purchase Brusso Knife Hinges (the Double Offset ones). Never having used them before I am unsure what sizes to choose. I will be getting them from LV.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=62811&cat=3,41241,41267

The doors frames are 3/4" thick. Which hinge size do I go for?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ron Conlon]

Haven't used them, but from the website:

Generally, the door thickness should be at least 1/8" greater than the hinge offset.

That only leaves you one choice- A, the 5/8" ones.

[Sean Hughto]

There's a few more details of the dimensions on Joel's page:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=BR-L.XX&Category_Code=CBR

might help. I bet both LV and TFWW would be happy to talk on the phone, or by e-mail about it.

[Jon van der Linden]

General rule of thumb for knife hinges is that they should be at least 1/3rd the thickness of the door. I wouldn't go much over 2/5ths though.

The last time I looked at Brusso hinges they had a logo stamped on them which made them ugly and unusable for me. Making your own hinges is easy enough if you have a drill press and a reamer for the pin hole. The only issue is the pin sliding out, which can be solved by either placing it so it's captured or silver soldering one end. Alternatively you can buy pins (as well as hinges) here:

http://www.sandersonhardware.com/blog/

Nice hardware from some graduates of the College of the Redwoods where Krenov used to teach - as I'm sure you already know he used knife hinges almost exclusively.

The other thing that's nice about making your own hinges is that then you feel more free to patinate and things like that. Unfinished brass has a nice look, but sometimes a patina might be more appropriate.

[David Weaver]

How deep is the logo and where is it? I'm about 2 months out from needing some hardware for a chest, and was going to get brusso hardware for it. Can it be lapped off or is it too deep for that?

[Jon van der Linden]

How deep is the logo and where is it? I'm about 2 months out from needing some hardware for a chest, and was going to get brusso hardware for it. Can it be lapped off or is it too deep for that?

I don't really remember, I just saw it at a Woodcraft store and thought "never be able to use this." The other reason that I didn't give it too much thought was that I have a reamer and 6' lengths of 1/4" x 1/8" lengths of brass are fairly cheap compared to a pair of hinges.

I guess I need to add a signature "cheap but not lazy!" Seriously though, my actual reason for starting to make my own hinges was that I could then make them the dimensions that I wanted and I was also interested in adding a patina appropriate to the work. When you start experimenting with patinas you don't want each test to cost $40 + the cost of the patina itself.

[David Weaver]

Going point about making them, there's not much there aside from the pins.

[Mike Henderson]

I've used the Brusso knife hinges and don't remember any logo on them. In any case, the way they're put in, it'd be really hard for anyone to see the logo.

They're not too hard to put in, especially for someone like you, Derek.

Mike

[Tony Shea]

I've just recently used some of these hinges and there is absolutely no logo on them. They are wonderful hinges. I am talking of the straight blade style not the offset.

I do like the idea of making your own but after looking at the above link for the pin stock I almost can't justify it. After spending the $8 or whatever on the pin and then the brass itself your getting close to what the Brusso's cost. Maybe not real close but then you have a little time invested in making them. Not discouraging anyone from making them, I just think the Brusso's work great and are a respectable knife hinge for the money. I would love to have the ability and time to make my own hinges, but if I did it would be nice to find a cheaper source for the pin stock.

Having said all that, I think Derek would be more than capable of making his own. The little bit of metal work I've seen out of your website proves to me that your more than capable of the task. But understand that is not the original question. For 3/4" thick material I've used the ST-18's with great success. But this is in reference to the straights. I have no experience with the offsets.

[Derek Cohen]

I've decided to go with the 3/4" hinges.

Looking at the way they are installed (the following from Joel's website) ..

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/prodimg/br/reg/BR-LXX_A.gif

Note that the the hinges are 3/4" wide including the offset. The doors they are to be used in are curved (I posted links here a week or so back), and the ends of the frame has some cross grain. Therefore I need to try and keep as much meat in the edges as possible.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Harlan Barnhart]

Making your own hinges is easy enough if you have a drill press and a reamer for the pin hole.


Sorry for hijacking Mr. Cohen's thread but I can't let this go. Mr. van der Linden, the next time you decide to knock out a few knife hinges, could you snap a few pictures and put together a little tutorial for us? I imagine a there are a few of us who would be interested.

Peace,
Harlan

[John A. Callaway]

I know I am diggin up a old thread.... but Brusso has a website with full technical drawings of each hinge....and you can buy direct....

I am starting a Krenov style wall cabinet soon, and ordered some hinges tonight.

This thread came up in my google search :)