sanity check please - another electrical question

[Jon Prouty]

Hi All,

Just picked up a 18,000 BTU AC unit for my garage shop to replace an old piece of junk unit. This is a window unit so I did not even think of the power requirements until I got to work and looked up the reviews on-line and saw that it is a 240v unit. Hmmm... I have no 220 (240) outlets in the garage but I do have a dryer outlet on the other side of a common wall to the garage. I can't expense an electrician to run 220 out to my garage to run this ac so I plan to do the following:
Get a good 12 guage extension cord form the BORG and the approriate plug to connect to my dryer receptacle and the appropraite receptacle to mate to the AC unit. Badda boom, badda bing, cut the ends and wire up the new ends. White and black to the side lugs and green to the D shaped ground for the dryer side and match the colors on the AC unit. Easy peasy right?

I will drill a hole through the wall to have my new cord run through (before putting on on end).

I will have to swap plugs with the wife but such is life - dryer vs garage AC.

Any problems with my logic here? Only worry is not drilling through a wire in the wall.

Sanity check please?

Thanks!
Jon

[Dan Hintz]

Electrically, there's nothing wrong with this setup...

Code wise, you are breaking several rules in one shot, not to mention opening yourself up to a lawsuit and a good way to be denied homeowner's insurance claims should something go wrong.

Extension cords are not allowed to be run through/in a wall. Extension cords are not allowed to have their ends lopped off and used as a permanent power source. I won't get into the other code violations on this one as those alone will end any claims...

[Jon Prouty]

Electrically, there's nothing wrong with this setup...

Code wise, you are breaking several rules in one shot, not to mention opening yourself up to a lawsuit and a good way to be denied homeowner's insurance claims should something go wrong.

Extension cords are not allowed to be run through/in a wall. Extension cords are not allowed to have their ends lopped off and used as a permanent power source. I won't get into the other code violations on this one as those alone will end any claims...

Permanent power source... I would say this is a temporary summer situation. Not a permanent installation?

Can I daisy chain off the existing dryer outlet and put a box in the wall next to the existing but facing into the garage? Obviously only running one unit at a time (dryer or AC unit). This would get me by the cord through the wall aspect.

Thanks!
Jon

[Dan Hintz]

Permanent power source... I would say this is a temporary summer situation. Not a permanent installation?

Can I daisy chain off the existing dryer outlet and put a box in the wall next to the existing but facing into the garage? Obviously only running one unit at a time (dryer or AC unit). This would get me by the cord through the wall aspect.

Thanks!
Jon
Lopping off the end of the cord and wiring it to the box makes it "permanent", regardless of how long you intend to leave it that way.

But yes, adding another box with proper Romex wiring between the two is the appropriate way. Granted, it wouldn't pass code muster if the A/C is considered a permanent fixture due to the lack of proper gauge wire/breaker for both at the same time... you'd have to tell the guy you want to move the dryer from one place to another from time to time, hence the dual plugs. Still, if you have no plans to sell it that way or get it inspected, you'll be fine. Just make sure you don't run both at the same time as you'll wear out the breaker tripping it so often ;)

[Jon Prouty]

I guess in my original plan I wouldn't be wiring it to a box, rather I would be making an extension cord. That would have a plug on the end that would mate to the exisitng receptacle. Seeing as this is a code problem to have an extension cord through a wall, I suppose an extension cord made from Romex would be just as bad. Most of the cord would be out of the wall and the flexure at the dryer end would be numerous times.

I think wiring up another box is the way to go.... I would only need a couple feet of Romex, a box and an outlet.

Time to contemplate this a bit more.... I really appreciate the feedback (sanity check).

Jon

[John McClanahan]

Your dryer is probably on a 30 amp breaker. To be safe, the wire should be 10 gauge.

John

[Roger Frazee]

Jon

You should reconsider. What plug is on the factory power cord for the a/c? Most likely at 240 volts it's a 6-15p with an LCDI. The power cord will not be protected by the 30 amp breaker being utilized by the dryer branch circuit. The simple fact is your plugging a 15 amp a/c cord into a 30 amp circuit. Not a good idea.

Is there anyway you can rededicate one of your 120 volt 15 or 20 amp circuits to a 240 volt circuit?

[Bernie May]

why not return the 220 unit and get a 110 version even if it is smaller. Not sure the size of your workshop or the degree of insulation. but we don't usually have to cool our shops to the level in a house and it is usually just one big room and does not involve all of the ducting. you can turn on your overhead air filter to help move the cool air around.
-bernie

[Dan Hintz]

The power cord will not be protected by the 30 amp breaker being utilized by the dryer branch circuit. The simple fact is your plugging a 15 amp a/c cord into a 30 amp circuit. Not a good idea.

It's done every day... I plug 14 Gauge wired appliances into 20A breakers (using 12 Gauge Romex) all of the time, there's no problem with it. The breaker is not there to protect the wiring of the appliance, it's there to protect the wiring within your walls. If the appliance has the potential to pull more current than it is hardwired for (i.e., the cord sticking out of the back), it's up to the appliance manufacturer to include some form of protection (breaker, fuse, etc.) within the appliance.

What would be wrong is changing the plug to fit into a differently-rated outlet.

[Jon Prouty]

why not return the 220 unit and get a 110 version even if it is smaller. Not sure the size of your workshop or the degree of insulation. but we don't usually have to cool our shops to the level in a house and it is usually just one big room and does not involve all of the ducting. you can turn on your overhead air filter to help move the cool air around.
-bernie

I have a small one (5k BTU / 110V) in there now and it does not do a great job. It is 115 here in AZ and my four car garage needs a bigger unit to cool to an acceptable temp. While fully insulated, the garage is hotter than I can deal with when working out there. Monsoons are here now so humidity is up where evap cooler is no good.

JP

[Jon Prouty]

Jon

You should reconsider. What plug is on the factory power cord for the a/c? Most likely at 240 volts it's a 6-15p with an LCDI. The power cord will not be protected by the 30 amp breaker being utilized by the dryer branch circuit. The simple fact is your plugging a 15 amp a/c cord into a 30 amp circuit. Not a good idea.

Is there anyway you can rededicate one of your 120 volt 15 or 20 amp circuits to a 240 volt circuit?

I don't understand... a 30 amp circuit should be more than necessary for a 15 amp AC unit. I would consider a 15amp circuit for a 15 amp requirement borderline. Wouldn't that trip the breaker everytime?

Your second point intrigues me though... I do have this outlet in my laundry room. This appears to be a NEMA 5-20R 20 amp dedicated outlet. Can I reconfigure to 220? What would be involved?

[Brad Sperr]

I don't understand... a 30 amp circuit should be more than necessary for a 15 amp AC unit. I would consider a 15amp circuit for a 15 amp requirement borderline. Wouldn't that trip the breaker everytime?

Your second point intrigues me though... I do have this outlet in my laundry room. This appears to be a NEMA 5-20R 20 amp dedicated outlet. Can I reconfigure to 220? What would be involved?

If that outlet is on a dedicated, home-run circuit back to your panel, you could use the grounded (white) conductor as the second line conductor for a new 220 circuit. You might have to reposition some breakers to make room for a new double pole breaker to ensure that the two lines are on opposite legs of the service. Be sure to mark the grounded conductor with a Sharpie to indicate the change. Technically, you're still required to have a dedicated 20amp circuit serve your laundry room, though.

[Dan Hintz]

If that outlet is on a dedicated, home-run circuit back to your panel, you could use the grounded (white) conductor as the second line conductor for a new 220 circuit. You might have to reposition some breakers to make room for a new double pole breaker to ensure that the two lines are on opposite legs of the service. Be sure to mark the grounded conductor with a Sharpie to indicate the change. Technically, you're still required to have a dedicated 20amp circuit serve your laundry room, though.
It's already a 220V circuit, so both lines are being used.

[Brad Sperr]

I'm assuming that's a picture of another receptacle in the laundry room. The NEMA 5-20R is not rated for 240V, so that should be a 120V circuit. You would need a new receptacle if you were to convert that circuit to 240V.

[Jon Prouty]

I'm assuming that's a picture of another receptacle in the laundry room. The NEMA 5-20R is not rated for 240V, so that should be a 120V circuit. You would need a new receptacle if you were to convert that circuit to 240V.

correct - this is another unused receptacle in the laundry room. I think having this converted would be a good solution.

[Roger Frazee]

I'm assuming that's a picture of another receptacle in the laundry room. The NEMA 5-20R is not rated for 240V, so that should be a 120V circuit. You would need a new receptacle if you were to convert that circuit to 240V.

I concur that is not a 240 volt circuit but a 120 volt circuit. As you said if it is a dedicated home run it can easily be converted to 240 volts as long as there is room for a double pole beaker to be added to the panel.

You need to absolutely verify no other outlets on that circuit. Since it is a single outlet there is a great chance for that to be true. It is then a simple matter to convert it to a 240 volt circuit that will match the manufacturers required branch circuit requirements for the a/c.

Jon

The NEC specifically forbids any listed 15 or 20 amp rated cord and plug appliance like your window a/c to be operated on a 30 amp circuit. Below is a manual telling you as much. You are requied by the electrical codes to fololow the manufacturers instructions. Lots of things 'work' but not necessarily safely.

http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Edison/2020219a0951en.pdf

What Dan said earlier is true you can operate 15 amp appliances on a 20 amp circuit but his reasoning is incorrect. But that is where it ends.
If this is a new unit the manufacturer will tell you the same in the installation instructions. You risk fire at the A/c if the right conditions would suddenly exist.

Again you cannot connect to a 30 amp branch circuit with appliances that have 15 or 20 amp cords and plugs. This is a direct violation of the NEC and local codes.

The explanation will take some time and code references but it is not a matter of whether or not the circuit has more than enough power to operate the window a/c. I'll provide that if you like.

Simply put if the manufacturer wanted to allow you to put the window a/c on a 30 amp circuit they would have put a 30 amp plug on it.....:) It's not about voltage but the available amperage. The manufacturer is required to protect the compressor with an overload device and he protects the wiring of the unit (power cord) by sticking that 20 amp or 15 amp plug on the unit to force you to use a 15 or 20 amp branch circuit.

[Jon Prouty]

I concur that is not a 240 volt circuit but a 120 volt circuit. As you said if it is a dedicated home run it can easily be converted to 240 volts as long as there is room for a double pole beaker to be added to the panel.

You need to absolutely verify no other outlets on that circuit. Since it is a single outlet there is a great chance for that to be true. It is then a simple matter to convert it to a 240 volt circuit that will match the manufacturers required branch circuit requirements for the a/c.


There is room to add a double pole breaker in the box. Stupid question - how do I verify without a doubt that there are no other outlets on this circuit?

Is this something that needs to be done by an electrican or is this something that a (reasonable) homeowner can do?

I have done more reading and agree that I cannot plug this AC unit into a 30amp dryer circuit.

Thanks all again for the great support.

Jon

[Roger Frazee]

Hi Jon

Yep you can do this yourself. There is a excellent chance this circuit is dedicated by evidence the outlet is a single (not duplex) receptacle.

Basically get a voltage tester or lamp and turn off the breaker that supplies that receptacle. Check every outlet that could be reasonably supplied by this circuit. If any other outlets have lost power then it is not dedicated. Even if more outlets you may still be able to do this but we need the details.

I can post a diagram if this becomes a possibility. You can definitely do this yourself.

[Trevor Howard]

You can buy a tracer, basically a sender unit plugs into the outlet and then you go down your panel with a receiver unit that beeps when it finds the right breaker. Or a cheaper way is to switch the breaker off, then go around outlets within range of the Laundry room receptacle, and test for power.

If you go this route, will you still wire up a receptacle on the garage side?

[Jon Prouty]

You can buy a tracer, basically a sender unit plugs into the outlet and then you go down your panel with a receiver unit that beeps when it finds the right breaker. Or a cheaper way is to switch the breaker off, then go around outlets within range of the Laundry room receptacle, and test for power.

If you go this route, will you still wire up a receptacle on the garage side?


Going to use the lamp trick. Should be easy enough. (I am king of cheap).

I will move the outlet to the garage side of the wall.

I'm headed to the borg to get some supplies. I'm sure I'll have more questions later guys. Thank you again to everyone for the help.

Jon

[Dan Hintz]

Roger,

You're absolutely correct... I was under the (poor) assumption the A/C unit was properly plugged for a 30A circuit, hence my assertion that he was perfectly fine with plugging the unit into that circuit. My bad...



Jon,

An earlier post (around #12ish) made it appear that you were going to rewire the pictured socket to the 30A dryer circuit. This is not correct, as Roger pointed out, since the pictured socket is not rated for 240V. I assumed (again, poorly) that you were installing a new socket (one properly rated) and connecteing that to the 30A circuit... a new socket properly rated for a 30A circuit would not allow you to plug in a 120V appliance (at least not without a lot of heavy plier work).

[Roger Frazee]

Roger,

You're absolutely correct... I was under the (poor) assumption the A/C unit was properly plugged for a 30A circuit, hence my assertion that he was perfectly fine with plugging the unit into that circuit. My bad...



Jon,

An earlier post (around #12ish) made it appear that you were going to rewire the pictured socket to the 30A dryer circuit. This is not correct, as Roger pointed out, since the pictured socket is not rated for 240V. I assumed (again, poorly) that you were installing a new socket (one properly rated) and connecteing that to the 30A circuit... a new socket properly rated for a 30A circuit would not allow you to plug in a 120V appliance (at least not without a lot of heavy plier work).

Dan

Not a problem. Misunderstanding what the OP was doing is something I do all the time

Lets all put our heads together and help Jon get his new circuit run for his window a/c .... gotta be freakin hot in Arizona without A/c ....:) It's dang near unbearable here in Kansas.

[Roger Frazee]

Going to use the lamp trick. Should be easy enough. (I am king of cheap).

I will move the outlet to the garage side of the wall.

I'm headed to the borg to get some supplies. I'm sure I'll have more questions later guys. Thank you again to everyone for the help.

Jon

Hi Jon

Thought I would throw up this diagram at the end of my reply for you to reference while you get ready to run your new circuit.

Your going to be inside your breaker box. If you have not been in one before then get your head on right and stay focused. If your panel has a main breaker in it...turn it off. It generally is considered added safety if you turn off all your smaller branch breakers first to avoid disconnecting a high amperage combination of loads. Remember though the main breaker lugs will always be hot. With luck you may have a remote main breaker in which case you can de-energize everything in the panel.

Your going to look at the single pole breaker that is protecting the circuit to the laundry. Determine what you need to do to open up a space either above or below that breaker or if the wire will reach just install a double pole breaker in two open slots.

Word of caution a tandem "twin breaker " is not a double pole breaker and will not facilitate 240 volts ... so be sure you have a double pole breaker. Any problem with that understanding be sure to ask us here.

Once once you determine where you want the new breaker then remove the black wire from the existing single pole breaker. I prefer in most cases with small conductors to install the wires into the new breaker first .. then place it into the panel. How you do this varies so just study things a bit and you see how that is done. Be sure your wires are the correct length to connect to the breaker. If the wire or wires are too short then make pigtails with wirenuts.

So connect the white wire and the black wire to the circuit breaker. To be code compliant take a black magic marker and color a bit of the white wire black where it connects to the breaker. this identifies it as a white wire being used as hot. Doesn't matter which wire goes to which lug. Install the breaker ... your done.

Put the cover back on... then main breaker back on then all the branch breakers back on. Be sure the rest of the a/c circuit is completed before energizing.

Rest of the circuit looks like the diagram below. You will be extending the branch circuit from the existing receptacle in the laundry room. Just connect white to white, black to black and connect the equipment grounding. Do not use extension cord. Remove the 120 volt receptacle and put a blank cover over the box ...you must have access to the junction.

Hope this all makes since

[Jon Prouty]

Hi Guys... just want to thank you all again for the assistance. What a group of great folks here.

I thought I would put up a sketch to clarify a bit more the issue so that we're all on the same page. Also took a picture of the AC box electrical requirements.

I stopped by the borg and got everything I need except the breaker - guy recommended that I bring in the 110 breaker so that he can get me the right 220 for my box.

I think this will work out okay... you ain't kidding about needing the AC, it is HOT here in AZ.

Thanks!
Jon

[Jon Prouty]

Roger - thank you so much!!! All makes perfect sense. The guy at the borg said not to worry about flipping the main breaker off - that made me a bit nervous. I think I'd rather have that off.

Only other thing is that I will use a 6-15R rather than a 6-20R.

I should be golden now - I hope. :cool:

JP

[Dan Hintz]

Jon,

The very first thing I did when I moved in with my SO was have them replace the main panel (circa '72) with one containing a main breaker. Granted, I haven't used it yet, and I've already installed/replaced quite a few circuits in the house, but it's nice to know it's there.

[Roger Frazee]

Roger - thank you so much!!! All makes perfect sense. The guy at the borg said not to worry about flipping the main breaker off - that made me a bit nervous. I think I'd rather have that off.

Only other thing is that I will use a 6-15R rather than a 6-20R.

I should be golden now - I hope. :cool:

JP

Your welcome Jon

Turn off the main ... ;) this removes several points where you may short a screwdriver or bare end of a wire. Any exposed buss will also be de-energized. You may have to reset some clocks etc ... but better than
:eek:.

6-15R is fine and what is needed for the a/c plug

Since the wire is 12 awg or should be since the existing 120 volt 5-20R receptacle is a single one and dedicated home run just continue the extension to the new location with 12 awg. The manufacturer is showing a connection to a 6-15 then you can if you want just install a 15 amp double pole breaker on the 12 awg.

[Jon Prouty]

okay, last question I think. I was thinking of running an extension cord from the AC to the new plug location. However, since it is a garage, I could run 12-2 Romex in a conduit along the wall and put a handybox in the right location for the AC to just plug into. Cheaper than making an extension cord and probably a better install anyway. I'll make the first connection from the wall to the splice in a handybox so that should be to code.

Good idea?

Looking forward to a cool garage this weekend.

Jon

[Roger Frazee]

okay, last question I think. I was thinking of running an extension cord from the AC to the new plug location. However, since it is a garage, I could run 12-2 Romex in a conduit along the wall and put a handybox in the right location for the AC to just plug into. Cheaper than making an extension cord and probably a better install anyway. I'll make the first connection from the wall to the splice in a handybox so that should be to code.

Good idea?

Looking forward to a cool garage this weekend.

Jon

Yep good idea, the manufacturer warns against extension cords but it looks like your distance is not very far.
Conduit is better and code compliant ... I like EMT but that choice is yours. You be using metal boxes so ground the boxes.

Generally it is better to run individual conductors of thhn wire ( solid or stranded) in conduit.

1/2" conduit is too small for 12 awg romex and you would violate conduit fill requirements.

I wouldn't ding you though if you use 3/4 emt or pvc with a run of 12 awg romex.

If you run 12 awg thhn you can use 1/2" conduit.

[Dan Hintz]

Thumbs up from me... (as if it mattered ;) )

[Jon Prouty]

Hi Jon

Yep you can do this yourself. There is a excellent chance this circuit is dedicated by evidence the outlet is a single (not duplex) receptacle.

Basically get a voltage tester or lamp and turn off the breaker that supplies that receptacle. Check every outlet that could be reasonably supplied by this circuit. If any other outlets have lost power then it is not dedicated. Even if more outlets you may still be able to do this but we need the details.

I can post a diagram if this becomes a possibility. You can definitely do this yourself.

okay, I am up a creek. I found the breaker for the 110V / 20 amp dedicated outlet in my laundry room... except it is not the only outlet on the breaker. Two other outlets in the laundry room are on this same circuit.

Am I out of luck now? No solution to hook up my new ac.
:(

JP

[Jon Prouty]

I have a new solution!!! Actually, credit goes to my wife. After bumming for a while she says, go to Home Depot and talk to the guys there. I went figuring I would price out conduit and wire to bury a dedicated new trunk line from the service. I would have to go 100ft, under the driveway and two sidewalks. Turns out, you gotta bury that 18-34 inches. I ain't going to do that - way too much work. While I am there at HD, the electrical guy asks if there is anything he can help with. I explain the situation and he gives me some ideas. Then he comes up with a great one - the washer is on a dedicated 20 amp circuit! HOLY CRAP! Turns out this guy has been an electrician for 10 years and he was one of the guys that wired the houses in my subdivision so he knows for sure it is a dedicated circuit. Talk about ironic - what are the chances that the HD guy actually wired the houses in my neighborhood?

I'm going to check once the washer is done with its cycle tonight. The washer cord is long enough to reach the other receptacle that I though was dedicated so should be a piece of cake.

I'll use this circuit for my AC and with any luck, the AC cord will reach without having to make any extension cord or conduit run.

FINGERS CROSSED.

JP

[Bryan Wellman]

I have always been told by company reps (circuit breaker manufacturers) that it is ideal to cycle all breakers...including the main breaker....once a year. This keeps things moving inside and won't allow it to freeze up. It still should trip if overcurrent happens, but you won't be able to reset it again.

[Jon Prouty]

success! The washer circuit was indeed a dedicated 20 amp line. Thank goodness. I pulled the breaker so I can get the 220 one tomorrow (HD guy said bring it in to match it up).

Box looks really organized all the black wires are labeled... one question. It looks like a maze where the house bundle enters the box. How do I find which white (neutral) wire is the right one off the buss bar? I thought of checking continuity to the black wire but as they are all on a buss bar I would have to check individually. Even then I am not sure if the existing receptacle will generate a continuity. Hmmmmmmmm.... :confused:

Any great pearls of wisdom from Sawmill Creeks electrical gurus?

JP

[Roger Frazee]

success! The washer circuit was indeed a dedicated 20 amp line. Thank goodness. I pulled the breaker so I can get the 220 one tomorrow (HD guy said bring it in to match it up).

Box looks really organized all the black wires are labeled... one question. It looks like a maze where the house bundle enters the box. How do I find which white (neutral) wire is the right one off the buss bar? I thought of checking continuity to the black wire but as they are all on a buss bar I would have to check individually. Even then I am not sure if the existing receptacle will generate a continuity. Hmmmmmmmm.... :confused:



Any great pearls of wisdom from Sawmill Creeks electrical gurus?

JP

If the wiring method is romex cable can you trace the black wire that is connected to the breaker and see what white is in the same cable with the black?

[Trevor Howard]

one question. It looks like a maze where the house bundle enters the box.

JP

Roger I think from this sentence, it going to be difficult to trace.

Jon, what you could try, but may be time consuming, at the receptacle wire the Black and white together. Now at the panel, if you test with a meter (set on Ohms) between the black and the Ground you should get continuity. Now disconnect each neutral and test each time. Once you get the correct neutral the circuit between Black and Ground will disappear. Then just to double check, test between Black and White and you should get a circuit again.
Hmm that make sense?

WARNING, the above check will need all circuits turned off as well as the Main Breaker for safety.
Good Luck

[Jon Prouty]

Roger I think from this sentence, it going to be difficult to trace.

Jon, what you could try, but may be time consuming, at the receptacle wire the Black and white together. Now at the panel, if you test with a meter (set on Ohms) between the black and the Ground you should get continuity. Now disconnect each neutral and test each time. Once you get the correct neutral the circuit between Black and Ground will disappear. Then just to double check, test between Black and White and you should get a circuit again.
Hmm that make sense?

WARNING, the above check will need all circuits turned off as well as the Main Breaker for safety.
Good Luck

A+ makes sense to this mechanical engineer. I should have paid more attention during my sparky classes. Thanks!

JP

[Roger Frazee]

Can you post a picture(s) inside the panel and of this bundle? I do agree with Trevor his suggestion may be your best bet under the circumstances. I was hoping to avoid that process but somehow I think you already tried tracing the black wire or you would not have been asking the question....:)

Be sure all the neutrals/grounded legs are reconnected before you energize the panel, this is to make sure you do not put 240 volts on any multiwire circuits that share the same neutral conductor.

You could have your wife hold one of the ....hmmmm ...maybe that's not a good idea ....:rolleyes:

[Jon Prouty]

Can you post a picture(s) inside the panel and of this bundle? I do agree with Trevor his suggestion may be your best bet under the circumstances. I was hoping to avoid that process but somehow I think you already tried tracing the black wire or you would not have been asking the question....:)

Be sure all the neutrals/grounded legs are reconnected before you energize the panel, this is to make sure you do not put 240 volts on any multiwire circuits that share the same neutral conductor.

You could have your wife hold one of the ....hmmmm ...maybe that's not a good idea ....:rolleyes:

Sure - I'll post some pics tomorrow or later tonight of inside my box. I took out the breaker last night (it was dark and I had a flashlight in my mouth aimed at the panel and it was starting to flicker as the battery was dying) and a monsoon storm was fast approaching (I could see lightning in the distance)). I was trying to get done as fast as possible so as not to die a painful death.

I'll try tracing back but I am afraid that won't work. I'll do everything else with plenty of daylight :cool:

My wife was already upset last night as I was hunting the right breaker - flip (off goes the TV), flip (off go the lights), flip (off goes the baby monitor), flip (off goes the washer), flip (off goes the computer), flip (you see where this is going). Everything but the one I was wanting. lol

More pics later guys - hopefully with a new AC unit blowing cold.

JP

[Jon Prouty]

Hi Guys - sorry for the late post. Today was a travel day for work. I wanted to show the results.

I had a couple hours on Saturday to dig into the electrical some more. I took pics as well.

On Saturday I thought I figured out which neutral wire I needed. I checked continuity with the wires at the receptacle tied together. I found what I thought was the right ones. Continuity with them tied together and nothing with them diconnected. Tied them together at the box and tested continuity at the receptacle. Good to go. Or so I thought.

On Sunday I wired the receptacle through the wall with using the old box as a juncion box and some romex to my new box. Finished it off with the face plate and went to install the new breaker. Wired up the breaker and installed it. Crossed my fingers and flipped it over. Snap! oops. Something was wrong. Flipped the breaker a couple more times and it kept popping. I knew I did something wrong.

Went back to Trevor's post and did it over again and found the right circuit. Had to try almost all the neutral wires before I got the right one. Wired up the breaker and when I flipped it nothing. It stayed on and all was right with the world. Of course it was about 110 outside while I was working on it and I was not exactly a happy camper about having to redo my work.

Back inside and started working on the AC unit. Got it all together and installed. Only weighed about 120lbs!!!! Heavy unit but thankfully the outer case was removable and I only had to slide the innards into it once the outer was installed.

Now onto my extension cord. I wired up a cord and plugged it in. Turned it on and immediately the cool air started to blow!!!! Thank goodness. All is good.

Here are my pics for posterity.

Thanks to all for the support and help. I really appreciate it.

Jon

[Dan Hintz]

A cleanly laid out box, the way it should be done... I like to see that when I open a panel, not the rats nest I've seen on occasion. Can't say I've ever seen anyone use the sheathing as a label system, but it seems to work out well.

[Trevor Howard]

Glad you got it all figured out Jon, now go enjoy the AC :D